Wipe On Poly Techniques

[Freebird]

Hey Guys!

 

New member onboard here! I’ve been reading (more like studying), some of the incredible build logs and I’m just so taken by the awesome models and techniques. My first build will be Chuck’s Medway Longboat and I have some questions on using WOP. First, I’ve never used WOP before, and I’ll be using MinWax Satin WOP.  I see that you can use a cloth or a brush to get into nooks and crannies. Does WOP need to be sanded between coats or just add the next coat after a couple of hours? Is there a preferred technique to using WOP for best results? Really looking forward to starting my project on 1/1/21 but need some guidance using WOP. Thanks guys!

 

Rick

[Bob Cleek]

Wipe on polyurethane is simply thinned polyurethane varnish or "clear coating," if you will. It's marketed for folks who don't want to go to the trouble of mixing their own and for that convenience they pay the price of polyurethane varnish for a can half full of far less expensive thinner.   The same result can be achieved using a mixture of half boiled linseed oil and half turpentine. Either way, the "preferred technique" is getting it on the wood however works for you, and then wiping off the excess before it starts to dry. It's really no different than any other oiled wood finish, save for the chemical components of the coating itself. As the man says, "Follow the directions on the can."

 

How many coats to apply and whether you feel the need to sand or not are matters of personal taste. As with all finish and wood species combinations with which the user is not completely familiar,  one should always test the application on a piece of scrap wood of the same species (and preferably the same color, if colors vary in the species) to ensure the result desired. Nothing's worse than ruining a work piece with a botched finish!

 

 

 

Edited December 24, 2020 by Bob Cleek

[Freebird]

Bob,

Thank you for the info, much appreciated!

 

I'm currently building Chuck’s serving machine and using that as a test bed for using WOP. I’ve got 2 coats applied without sanding between coats and the finish is pretty nice. 
 

Rick

[GuntherMT]

On 12/24/2020 at 2:15 AM, Bob Cleek said:

Wipe on polyurethane is simply thinned polyurethane varnish or "clear coating," if you will. It's marketed for folks who don't want to go to the trouble of mixing their own and for that convenience they pay the price of polyurethane varnish for a can half full of far less expensive thinner.   The same result can be achieved using a mixture of half boiled linseed oil and half turpentine. Either way, the "preferred technique" is getting it on the wood however works for you, and then wiping off the excess before it starts to dry. It's really no different than any other oiled wood finish, save for the chemical components of the coating itself. As the man says, "Follow the directions on the can."

 

How many coats to apply and whether you feel the need to sand or not are matters of personal taste. As with all finish and wood species combinations with which the user is not completely familiar,  one should always test the application on a piece of scrap wood of the same species (and preferably the same color, if colors vary in the species) to ensure the result desired. Nothing's worse than ruining a work piece with a botched finish!

 

 

 

 

For someone using a large quantity like a full sized furniture workshop, I can understand mixing my own for cost savings, but for a small hobbyist usage like model ships, it's just not worth the hassle IMO when a single small can will last me for multiple models or until I leave the can open and let it dry out.. lol.. 

The ease of use (shake can, pop open top, apply to rag, use) vastly outweighs the cost savings of mixing it myself.  

[Gregory]

Takes me a while to use up a can also.

 

I usually thin the  " Wipe on Poly " even further, at least for the first coat or two..

[Ron Burns]

Awesome information! I've never used Wipe on Poly until now with Chuck's Winchesea. Knowing how it is formulated vs regular Poly and how to use it properly goes hand in hand. Now I will attempt to try it 'properly' on my old dining room table this spring. Thanks!

[Bob Cleek]

2 hours ago, GuntherMT said:

 

For someone using a large quantity like a full sized furniture workshop, I can understand mixing my own for cost savings, but for a small hobbyist usage like model ships, it's just not worth the hassle IMO when a single small can will last me for multiple models or until I leave the can open and let it dry out.. lol.. 

The ease of use (shake can, pop open top, apply to rag, use) vastly outweighs the cost savings of mixing it myself.  

 

Yes, I suppose that's true. I'm probably showing my age. I'm an old school boat painter.  I can't remember when a can of boiled linseed oil and a can of turps weren't staples on my shop's paint shelves. Polyurethane is always "in stock," too, as is its thinner. All I've ever used polyurethane for has been indoor furniture table tops that are going to take a beating. For my purposes, in many applications, the newer synthetics' disadvantages outweigh their advantages. My own personal approach with models is to use professional-standard archival materials to the greatest extent possible. As unlikely as it may be, I like to think that if one of my models happened to survive for a couple of hundred years, some museum restorer would thank me for using reversible natural coatings instead of something plastic that was irreversible. I realize that for many, that's not a consideration at all. The much more likely outcome in my case is that I'll botch something and have to do it over and be glad i didn't use a permanent coating or adhesive!  

Edited December 27, 2020 by Bob Cleek

[glbarlow]

On 12/24/2020 at 3:15 AM, Bob Cleek said:

folks who don't want to go to the trouble of mixing their own and for that convenience they pay the price of polyurethane varnish for a can half full of far less expensive thinner

It’s $13 a can. 😞

Edited December 27, 2020 by glbarlow

[glbarlow]

On 12/23/2020 at 3:26 PM, Freebird said:

preferred technique to using WOP for best results?

To actually answer your question...Only use Satin. Give the first coat at least 24 hours to dry, maybe longer, until it’s not tacky or gummy.  Lightly sand with 400 grit or steel wool and add at least a second coat. My Cheerful hull probably has 4-5, I’ve lost track. 
 

You can paint over it and or put it on over paint (at least with acrylics). 
 

It’s inexpensive, easy to use, and creates a great finish. I’ve never used a whole can, it may dry out before I get to the third or fourth model in which case I go to Home Depot and shell out $13 for a new can, then I have just the one can...ready to use... no other cans of other stuff laying around I have no use for.

 

 

Edited December 27, 2020 by glbarlow

[Freebird]

Glenn,

Thanks for the input! On Syren’s serv-o-magic, which is cherry, I’ve applied 3 coats of satin WOP with 24 hours between coats, no sanding. The finish is baby bottom smooth (no doubt cause it’s a pretty hard wood). I’m impressed with the ease of using and the results of WOP.

 

Rick

[DelF]

Making your own is the only sensible way to go on this side of the pond. There doesn't seem to be a local source of ready made wop, and imported brands like Minwax are ridiculously expensive - over £30 per pint. I still tend to prefer shellac.

[glbarlow]

3 hours ago, DelF said:

this side of the pond.

We keep the good stuff for ourselves 🤣😂. The $13 here is for a quart, wouldn’t make sense to me to buy other stuff to mix it,  but at £30 a pint I can understand. 

Edited December 29, 2020 by glbarlow

[palmerit]

Sorry for jumping on an old thread.

 

1. Is Minwax Wipe-On Poly (Warm Satin) a good choice?

 

2. Would I use a rap, a brush, or a (small) foam brush? Or some combination, like foam brush on, then wipe with a rag?

[Gregory]

Wipe on Poly works best for me by brushing then wiping with soft cloth after a few minutes. I may make any number of coats till I get the finnish I want .

FWIW, Wipe on Poly is just Poly varnish that has been thinned with mineral spirits.    Maybe 75/25  varnish/thinner.

 

I make my own,  about 50/50. 

Edited August 29 by Gregory

[Chuck]

On 8/29/2024 at 10:31 AM, palmerit said:

1. Is Minwax Wipe-On Poly (Warm Satin) a good choice?

I am bot 100% sure but I think its the same stuff that I use and just rebranded as “warm satin”.  I am using the same now as I can no linger find just satin and I cant tell the difference at all.  Its exactly the same stuff in my opinion.

[GGibson]

OK, so... mind if I jump in on this wipe-on poly thread and ask a question?  I've read internet articles regarding the general comparisons between wipe-on poly (polyurethane) and polycrylic.  Do experienced model shipbuilders have a preference?  Certainly, the most striking difference is that polyurethane is oil-based vs. polycrylic, which is water-based, right?  With that, I have read that wipe-on poly might leave a bit of an amber tone, which would not be good on a white hull, for instance.  Polycrylic, on the other hand, goes down clearer, which is great for lighter colors or for unstained decks, but can supposedly make darker colors appear a bit murky.  Thoughts on what to use when?

[Keith Black]

 I like Minwax Polyurethane and have used it for years. I recently tried Minwax Polycrylic hoping the flat finish type would be better suited for modeling. What little I've used it I'm not impressed. Poly provides great protection not so with polycrylic, IMHO. I'll be doing some testing shortly on sealing pastel weathering with polycrylic, hopefully I'll see better results.