HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[James H]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

In a funny sort of way, Chris's design with so many pre-formed parts almost encourages a clik and fit quick build mentality, a fairly finished look can be achieved in a short time. It's not that easy, there's a lot more to the kit than that.

 

That's a perfect summary.

[mtaylor]

13 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you Glenn (UK), and Glenn (USA), and thanks for looking in Malcolm.

 

@ Glenn (USA) - this is a kit to savour, like a fine old vintage wine, so much scope to play with it.

Altho' I'm working on it most days, all being well, I fully expect to be still going this time next year. 

 

In a funny sort of way, Chris's design with so many pre-formed parts almost encourages a clik and fit quick build mentality, a fairly finished look can be achieved in a short time.

It's not that easy, there's a lot more to the kit than that.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

True on the vintage wine analogy.  While it does seem to encourage a fit and glue mindset, there are pitfalls pointed out that need to be addressed.  I'm not going to your extent of modifications but the build needs to be savored.

[Gahm]

I just stumbled over your build log of the Sphinx. I don't know how I could miss it so long. As usual, wonderful work and great presentation of all the essential steps in your log! I will happily follow along from now on 🙂

 

Thomas 

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys and thanks for looking in Thomas, I'm still enjoying your rather tasty Syren build.

 

Post Twenty-nine

 

Gun port fettlin’

I have decided to line the ports, but before I begin I lay a coat of  thinned paint to the bulwarks.

The outer patterns were trial fitted several times to reveal any mismatches which were cleaned up using scalpel and fine sandpaper. Not on the Pearwood patterns I hasten to add.

0879

To better get a clean line for the stops  the outer edges of the Gun port pattern are painted for a better contrast.

Any hairline gaps between the gunport pattern and frames were filled and sanded smooth.

0871

I begin with the bottom stops and set them level with the inner edge of the gunport pattern.

This is the easy part, fitting the side pieces which need angling, somewhat more tricky.

0878

To accommodate the angled side pieces I use 10mm wide strip, and the simple expedient of inserting the strip thro’ the ports  and marking the angles for cutting.

0881

Looking at the inboard bulwarks on the Port side where the lining have been added.

0880(2)

I think the Vallejo Flat Red is spot on for the shade I’d envisaged.

 

The real test is how do the ports look with the planking patterns in place.

0884

The photos reveal a little fettlin’ is required here and there but overall, I think it has worked out just fine.

0882(2)

A repeat exercise now required on the Starboard side.

It will be awhile before those pretty planking patterns are fitted.

 

B.E.

25/10/21

 

[Thukydides]

Looks fantastic BE. Even though I am a long way from being able to kitbash to the extent that you do, I appreciate the inspiration for future builds.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty

 

Looking at the guns

At this point I make up a gun because it will prove useful in checking the level of the ports.

Sphinx was fitted with Armstrong pattern Nine pounder guns which had a length excluding the cascobal of 7’ 6”.

 

The barrel

The kit has resin guns which are spot on for scale, and look very realistic, incorporating  both Royal cypher and vents.

They are so impressive that for the first time in my model building career I will forsake  the blackened brass versions I usually favour.

The muzzle face is nicely finished, the bore is scaled, and the reinforcing rings cleanly moulded. These barrels need no cleaning up such as the  removal of moulding lines etc.

When I think back to the appalling Amati guns supplied with their Pegasus kit, this is light years ahead.

 

Well done Chris.

 

The Carriages

The good

These are nicely finished in Pearwood.

 

The trucks are engraved with both bolt holes and section joints, and the Brackets have the engraved planking line which represents the two parts that usually made up the Brackets.

In reality these were secured with iron straps on the inside of the carriage.

 

I am pleased to see that the trucks have round holes rather than the square versions supplied with the Alert kit.

 

Chris has innovatively designed the capsquares as an integral part of the  brackets. This has the advantage of securing the barrels, always a fiddly job when capsquares are separately added. This also makes it easier to add the Capsquare eye and joint bolts.

My initial slight reservation about whether the capsquares looked too chunky was dispelled once I had assembled the gun.

 

The not so good

I am still not a fan of the provided etched eyebolts for the brackets. They look clunky to my eye, and the Breeching bolt lacks the ring thro’ which the breeching rope passes.

As with my previous builds I will replace these with more convincing Ring bolts and tackle loops.

03531(2) Gun Carriage as fitted to Cutter Alert model.

 

I find that Amati fine eyepins and rings are perfect for the Breeching rings.

Even with these deficiencies which are easily addressed the guns overall are very nice, similar to to the ordnance supplied by Chuck with his Syren models.

 

Assembly

First job, gently remove the char from visible edges, I use a home made sanding stick for this purpose.

0873

Secondly, gently round the  truck axles to fit  thro’ the trucks. This takes very little, a slight rounding on the corners is sufficient.

To assemble the guns the brackets require pre-painting because once the barrels are in place access to the inner areas is limited.

0915

The Trucks are fitted on a wooden toothpick to sand off the char around the rims.

With the char left in place it looks like the iron rims fitted to land based guns, a real no,no, onboard a ship.

With the trucks fitted to the axles I am pleased to see there is sufficient length to drill micro holes to take the keys.

 

Fettlin’ the barrels.

This is required before they are fitted to avoid any marring of the carriage paintwork.

I am looking at using weathering powder to to create an ‘iron’ finish, using Chuck’s approach.

Wash the barrel.

Spray with fixative, I use Winsor & Newton professional.

Apply weathering powder, and buff off with a soft brush.

0891

My pop up spray booth.

0887(2)

The basic resin gun.

 

Under macro I note a fault with the button, unfortunately on the top side. I checked the rest of the guns and a similar deformation was present in a further five of them.

Not a great problem to put right, but it is an additional job to do.

0901(2)

Fixative applied.

0903(2)

Weathering powder applied, I used Revell Rust Red.

0907(3)

Finished gun with buffed surface.

 

Before fitting the barrel between the Brackets I paint the capsquares. For this I use Vallejo  Black Grey which gives a good scale iron effect.

This area is too small to apply weathering powders without the risk of marring the paintwork.

0927(2)

0931(2)

0940(2)

Fairly satisfied with the result.

 

Final check, how does it sit on the deck.

0944

0947

0951

0955

This gun remains unfinished; I’ll re-visit the ordnance later, but for the present it’s back to port lining.

 

B.E.

26/10/21

 

 

[DelF]

You and @glbarlow have converted me to the use of weathering powder - your buffed barrel is strikingly realistic - and I've already ordered some. I wasn't aware of the need for a fixative though - is that because you're applying the weathering powder to resin, or would you use it with any surface?

[Blue Ensign]

I'm pretty new to weathering as well, I'm just following Chuck's guidance.

I suppose if you prime or paint them first, there's probably no need, perhaps it provides a key to hold the powders, but I just brushed it on dry and  off again using a soft brush.

Well worth having a go tho'.

 

B.E.

[BobG]

The metallic look you achieved on the canons is great, BE! I've only used the weathering powders on a painted surface and it makes sense to use fixative on an unpainted, resin surface.

 

It also looks like you have rounded the square ends of the axles on the canon bases. I think that looks better than just placing a square into a round hole. I was worried that that might make the ends of the axles too small for the holes in the wheels though but it looks like you were able to keep that from happening. 

[Thukydides]

2 hours ago, DelF said:

You and @glbarlow have converted me to the use of weathering powder - your buffed barrel is strikingly realistic - and I've already ordered some. I wasn't aware of the need for a fixative though - is that because you're applying the weathering powder to resin, or would you use it with any surface?

In miniature painting the process is to fix the powder using isopropyl (or alternative) then spraying it with a spray varnish. If you don't fix the powder then over time it will come off. If you go straight to the spray you risk blowing it off.

 

That being said where this is not being touched you may be fine without the varnish step. The powder will look better without varnish/fixing agent, but you risk it coming off over time.

Edited October 26, 2021 by Thukydides

[BobG]

1 hour ago, Thukydides said:

fix the powder using isopropyl (or alternative)

 

Do you just wipe the miniature with isopropyl alcohol and then brush on the weathering powder?

[Thukydides]

7 minutes ago, BobG said:

 

Do you just wipe the miniature with isopropyl alcohol and then brush on the weathering powder?

 No so you would brush the powder on then on when you are happy with the look you carefully apply the isopropyl with a brush to the area. Not brushing just touching it. The capillary action will spread it through the powder and when it dries fix it in place.

 

Alternatively some people mix a small bit of the powder with isopropyl and paint it on, but it can be harder to get the right look this way.

 

The best I can say would be to try a whole bunch of ways till you find what works for you. Until you seal it with varnish all you need is a toothbrush and water to get it off.

Edited October 26, 2021 by Thukydides

[Jasseji]

The weathering effect looks great, but i'd present 100 lashes to the Crew, who'd let their gun get to this stage

[Jasseji]

On a side Note @Blue Ensign what size of eyebolts and rings Would you suggest for the cannons? (actually if i'd replace the cannon eyebolts then i'd go replacing All eyebolts and rings, just dont have the oppinion what sizes Would Look Best) 

[glbarlow]

10 hours ago, DelF said:

wasn't aware of the need for a fixative though

I applied only black Strylex primer with the airbrush then weathered them. I’m sure the fixative is a good alternate approach. You do have to do something, I don’t think applying it directly to the resin would work well. 
 

When I build Winnie’s stove I’ll apply Dull Coat after the weathering powder as Chuck did. I saw no need for it on either Cheerful or Flirt’s guns. So far both look fine. 

Edited October 27, 2021 by glbarlow

[glbarlow]

6 hours ago, Thukydides said:

apply the isopropyl with a brush to the area

I’m glad this works for you but not how I would recommend. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for your input guys, as a weathering novice it’s all useful stuff.

 

@ Bob – re the wheel axles – it only requires the  slightest touch on the corners, I will do it even less on the other guns.

 

@ Thuky – with these particular guns once they are secured between the carriage brackets there is no need to touch them again, or even during fitting. Held on a cocktail stick they can be fitted untouched by human hand, or in Jacek’s case a catspaw.

 

@ Jacek – They don’t look quite as weathered from normal viewing distance but a spot of extra buffing will remove any residual rust.

 

-re the carriage iron work –

 For the ring bolts I used 2mm eyebolts and 2mm brass rings. The eye of the eyebolt was reduced in size a fraction and closed around the ring.

For the loops I use the eyebolts set slightly into the carriage side.

As fitted on a Pegasus carriage

I also used the same approach for the tackle rings and bolts on the bulwarks.

 

B.E.

 

[Jasseji]

28 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thanks for your input guys, as a weathering novice it’s all useful stuff.

 

@ Bob – re the wheel axles – it only requires the  slightest touch on the corners, I will do it even less on the other guns.

 

@ Thuky – with these particular guns once they are secured between the carriage brackets there is no need to touch them again, or even during fitting. Held on a cocktail stick they can be fitted untouched by human hand, or in Jacek’s case a catspaw.

 

@ Jacek – They don’t look quite as weathered from normal viewing distance but a spot of extra buffing will remove any residual rust.

 

-re the carriage iron work –

 For the ring bolts I used 2mm eyebolts and 2mm brass rings. The eye of the eyebolt was reduced in size a fraction and closed around the ring.

For the loops I use the eyebolts set slightly into the carriage side.

As fitted on a Pegasus carriage

I also used the same approach for the tackle rings and bolts on the bulwarks.

 

B.E.

 

yup, looks good with the eyebolts, for the ring on the carriage you used something bigger than the 2mm rings ? (is it 4?)

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Jacek,

These are the measurements applicable to 9 pounder guns.

The Breeching rope is 4½" circumference equating to 0.56mm ø at scale.

I will be using Syren 0.63mm line for the purpose.

 

The Breeching ring is 3” in the clear = 1.19mm. The ring thickness is ⅞”ø = 0.34mm at scale.

The Amati 2mm rings are close to these dimensions.

 

The loops are ½”ø thick, (0.19mm) and 1½” in the clear (0.59mm)

The Amati eyebolts are close enough for scale, but need a slight tweak to make them loops rather than eyes.

 

These figures are taken from The FFM, David Antscherl, and The Arming and Fitting of English ships of War, Brian Lavery.

 

Chris is not a great fan of rigging guns, but the manual does provide details of blocks and line sizes. If following the manual advice I would go for the larger 0.75mm ø line to provide a nice contrast with the 0.1mm tackle lines.

 

The provided carriage eyebolts are too thick, and are flat rather than rounded, as a result of the etching process.

In reality this matters little in the overall scheme of things, very little will be seen of the gun detail once the Gangboards are in place, but the pedant in me drives me on.🙄

 

Hope this helps.

 

B.E.

Edited October 29, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Jasseji]

23 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Hi Jacek,

These are the measurements applicable to 9 pounder guns.

The Breeching rope is 4½" ø equating to 0.56mm ø at scale.

I will be using Syren 0.63mm line for the purpose.

 

The Breeching ring is 3” in the clear = 1.19mm. The ring thickness is ⅞”ø = 0.34mm at scale.

The Amati 2mm rings are close to these dimensions.

 

The loops are ½”ø thick, (0.19mm) and 1½” in the clear (0.59mm)

The Amati eyebolts are close enough for scale, but need a slight tweak to make them loops rather than eyes.

 

These figures are taken from The FFM, David Antscherl, and The Arming and Fitting of English ships of War, Brian Lavery.

 

Chris is not a great fan of rigging guns, but the manual does provide details of blocks and line sizes. If following the manual advice I would go for the larger 0.75mm ø line to provide a nice contrast with the 0.1mm tackle lines.

 

The provided carriage eyebolts are too thick, and are flat rather than rounded, as a result of the etching process.

In reality this matters little in the overall scheme of things, very little will be seen of the gun detail once the Gangboards are in place, but the pedant in me drives me on.🙄

 

Hope this helps.

 

B.E.

I have a similar feeling about the guns, i want to rig at least the 5 on each side which might be visible below the Boats

 

although i am running into a Problem with fittings (again): Cornwall Model boats doesnt ship to EU, Amati doesnt ship to germany because they have an agreement with a reseller here.

 

That reseller charges 6 times the price of Amati...

 

I need to move to the UK

[mtaylor]

18 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

@ Bob – re the wheel axles – it only requires the  slightest touch on the corners, I will do it even less on the other guns.

 

 

I've been giving this some thought (a bad sign, I know).   I'm thinking of cutting the axle "short" and un-touched (no rounding).  Then put a small piece of dowel in to wheel.    Musing out loud but might work.

[BobG]

2 hours ago, mtaylor said:

 I'm thinking of cutting the axle "short" and un-touched (no rounding).  Then put a small piece of dowel in to wheel.

 

That's a creative idea, Mark!

[Blue Ensign]

 

4 hours ago, mtaylor said:

 

I've been giving this some thought (a bad sign, I know).   I'm thinking of cutting the axle "short" and un-touched (no rounding).  Then put a small piece of dowel in to wheel.    Musing out loud but might work.

 

You could always give it a go Mark, but my initial thought is that the scale is very small, and may not be worth the effort.

It can be quite difficult cutting tiny pieces of  dowel without  it splitting apart.

B.E.

Edited October 28, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[BobG]

10 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

 

 

You could always give it a go Mark, but my initial thought is that the scale is very small, and may not be worth the effort.

It can be quite difficult cutting tiny pieces of  dowel without  it splitting apart.

B.E.

Hmmm…I hadn’t thought about that, BE. I wonder if you could insert part tiny, round rod or toothpick and then carefully cut it off similar to treenailing? Perhaps the scale is too small and not worth it for the effort though…?? Just a thought…

[Blue Ensign]

Toothpicks are an obvious choice, but they are quite soft and difficult to get a clean cut. With treenails they are cut flush, which solves the problem but a small amount of  the truck axle should  extend beyond the truck to allow for the key.

I see that as problematic.

 

B.E.

[Gregory]

I've used sanding sticks to round off square axles  but I came up with something that works better for me.

 

  

I use a brass collet in a rotary tool.

Smooth and perfectly round.

 

[mtaylor]

13 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

 

 

You could always give it a go Mark, but my initial thought is that the scale is very small, and may not be worth the effort.

It can be quite difficult cutting tiny pieces of  dowel without  it splitting apart.

B.E.

I suspect you're right B.E.   Those are tiny parts.  Looks like Gregory as found a way.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty-one

A backward step

Having fitted the port linings I added a further coat of paint prior to fitting  the pre formed planking strip patterns which effectively take the planking down to the bottom of the Gunport pattern.

These look good and do save a lot of fine cutting around gunports.

However, trial fitting of the planking patterns raised doubts in my mind about the linings.

0964

I  originally fitted port linings in advance of fitting the outer planking patterns in an effort to avoid getting paint on the pattern edges.

They would in normal practice be fitted once the outer planking had been completed.

0961

I have at this point soaked the bow patterns and clamped overnight.

0965(2)

With the patterns applied I’m unhappy with the look. I think they should really meet the inner line of the outer patterns rather than of the  gunport pattern, so off they must come.

0974(2)

The sad detritus litters the deck.

0969

That’s two days of my life I’ll not get back, a penalty of kit fiddling. Hey ho.

 

B.E.

29/10/21

[Blue Ensign]

Post Thirty-two

 Planking by numbers, the Pearwood journey begins.

Soaked and clamped the patterns are shaped to the hull form.

0985(2)

While I wait for the planking patterns to dry out I make up a  range of sanding sticks using P240 grade paper.

0983(2)

Some of them are size specific ie for gunports, others narrower to get into smaller places.

Small ones are also used for char removal on small pieces.

Once the initial bite has gone from the papers I use the older ones for finer sanding.

 

Time to fit those pretty planking strip patterns.

I begin the fixing by clamping the Rear upper pattern in its correct position, and then trial fitting the Fore pattern to ensure that everything lines up before committing to glue.

0996

I keep a jar of clean water handy to wash off any glue marks that may get on the Pearwood surface from handling.

0997

I fit the upper aft patterns next, and repeat the process for the lower patterns.

I think I exhausted my entire eclectic stock of  clamps on this.

0999

The lower patterns I found more tricky to fit as they had a tendency to curl on the bottom edge, requiring pinning. There was also a slight mismatch  on some of the port edges even tho’ the sections seemed to meet up in the critical areas.

 

I had originally contemplated planking the lower portion  of the pattern area, but once again find myself seduced by Chris’s design.

1012(2)

The only modifications I made was to remove the closed lids of the Bridle ports on the fore sections, and  cut the doorway for the Quarter gallery on the aft sections.

1011

The doorways were cut post fitting from the opposite side of the hull by marking the outline with micro drill holes.

1003

I use a drill ca’d into a length of dowel for reach.*

I otherwise followed the arrangement set out in the manual.

* This is a useful device for drilling holes in bulwarks where space and angle are an issue.

With Sphinx, Chris has thoughtfully pre drilled the holes for the gun tackle  hardware, so no drilling is necessary.

1015

With the patterns in place I am better able to see what is required regarding port linings.

1013

1018(2)

It is a bit of a pain, but leaving the core of mdf uncovered is not something I would want to do.

Linings or stops are a pretty basic addition to a build of this scale, and consist of a cill and two sides, there is no top lining.

Again I will use 0.6mm Boxwood strip,(true scale) anything thicker would reduce the port sizes too much.

I will defer this job and fit it in with other work over the next couple of stages.

 

Following on from the patterns there are two further strakes of pre spiled planking, but before these are fitted I need to look at the outer patterns for the stem, keel, and sternpost, and the outer lower counter pattern.

 

B.E.

02/11/21

 

 

[chris watton]

I had originally done the outer skin in 0.6mm pear sheet, but this did curl too much when applying glue, so this was changed to 0.8mm, which was much better.