HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[DelF]

Beautiful planking work Maurice, really showing off the fine lines of this ship. I particularly like the round tuck in the 5th shot down.

 

Derek

[Moonbug]

Beautiful work BE - I think it definitely makes the grade.  Really nice looking transition between the sections as you move down the hull.  Also, nice solid repair work on the bow!

[hollowneck]

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you Jason and Glenn, and for the 'likes'

 

Post Forty-one

 

The moment of truth

A coat of w-o-p is applied to see if the result is now good enough to leave the lower hull unpainted.

On balance I think that it just about makes the grade.

 

A further two coats are applied; the keel and stem areas are brushed with w-o-p and immediately wiped off with a clean rag as I move along.

1337(2)

I do like the look of the knee of the head with its engraved constituent parts, the lines pop out once the w-o-p is applied.

1319

As a bonus, I avoid the troublesome task of marking the waterline, and I wasn’t really keen on that vast expanse of white paint anyway, at least not in relation to the Navy Board style of display I am seeking to achieve.

1317(2)

1330(2)

1323(2)

1315(2)

1333(2)

1331(2)

1347(2)

1329(2)

I can't be sure that I won't indulge in a little further fiddling with it before the point of no return,  but  for now, I'll move onto the Wales.

 

B.E.

26/11/21

 

I'm also not a fan of vast expanses of white paint applied to hull planking, even considering it is likely a historically accurate representation for this era. Tinting white paint to a more yellowish, tallow-looking color is still jarring to the eye. Your hull planking job is very attractive, should be displayed IMHO- and most important, viewed "au natural." I'm curious to see how you handle the model's wales.

 

Ron

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Derek, Bug, and Ron, it's a great relief not to have to mark-in that waterline.

 

@ Ron -  had I thought it necessary to cover up planking deficiencies, which was a distinct possibility, I was thinking of coppering her.

 

Sphinx was coppered in 1781 before the modifications to her ordnance in 1794. In that event I would be going for the flat brown old penny look rather than bright.

 

I had also thought about a painted finish, in which case I had in mind 'Light Ivory' a shade in the Admiralty paint range.

Still none of that has come to pass and I can move onto the wales, I too am curious how I'm going to  handle them. 🤔

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Forty-two

 

Fixing the wales.

It may be thought that this is a fairly straightforward procedure, given the marked lines of fitting on the hull coupled with pre-formed wales, there is no working out for yourself that critical wale position.

 

I considered constructing my own t&b wales as I had with Pegasus, but the thought lasted but a nano second.

1367(2)

The kit supplied pieces are nicely engraved with the Top and Butt planking lines, and it would be a pity not to use them.

The trick will be colouring it without covering up the plank lines.

 

I followed the given procedure and used fine pins liberally to secure the wale strip against the hull for the shape forming process.

The hull was then left overnight to fully dry out.

 

Probably due my increasing decrepitude I didn’t find fitting the wales the easiest of tasks.

They have to be correctly positioned, and held in place while pins are inserted to hold them fast, all before the pva starts to set.

 

Preparation is the key. I have the fine pins inserted in a balsa block for quick access, a micro pinvise, a jar of water and brush to clean off any pva overspill, and the pin pusher close to hand.

1376

The pva is decanted into a small jar and is slightly diluted. It is applied by brush as the wale is fixed along the hull.

The hull is secured in the keel clamp, better to see the required line and piled towels are used on the opposite side to support the hull against the pressure of the pin pusher.

1377(2)

Tamiya tape is applied above and below the wale position to mark the glue line and reduce the risk of overspill marks.

The forward end of the wale strips needs a slight bevel to fit tight against the stem.

1381

On my build the wales required a lot of pins to hold it firmly against the lower edge and additional pinning and clamping on the upper edge.

1387

1388

A prime objective is to get the wales looking symmetrical at the bow.

The stern area is the tricky part where the aftermost lower edge needs to curve downwards laterally very slightly, to meet the round of the hull.

1393

 I was able to clamp this by using a pin head on the wale and the rudder port as anchor points.

The  set-up was then left overnight for the glue to fully cure.

1402(2)

1405(2)

1408(2)

1410(2)

 

Before I move on I need to resolve a puzzling issue with the  pre-drilled scuppers, of which there are six.

1412

The forward two are offline against each other and the preceding four, which run along the top edge of the wale. This is not reflected on the plans where they all run along the top edge of the wale.

 

This in itself is an issue as they are too close to the top of the wale with no allowance for the flange that would surround them.

I rather think they should exit thro’ the Black strake above the wale, which is how I will position them.

 

The holes on the wale will be filled before painting.

 

This is a small thing and overall the wales look good and surely save an awful lot of T&B  cutting.

 

B.E.

28/11/21

 

 

[James H]

That's looking spot on, Maurice.

 

Don't worry too much about accidentally filling the engraved lines when painting. I did mine with a rattle can and you can still very clearly see the lines. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you James, that's reassuring to know, I am very much impressed by the box art photos of your build which clearly show the plank lines.

I do hope I can replicate the effect; I am hand painting so I think fine coats are the order of the day.🤞

 

B.E.

[Thukydides]

If you have an airbrush you could also paint them first black and then spray from above with a dark grey. This will simulate the light falling on them and will make the recesses stand out more. You can replicate this effect using a brush by painting black first and then dry brushing with the dark grey.

Edited November 28, 2021 by Thukydides

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Thuky, I'm strictly a brush man, but I'll keep your advice in mind.

 

Post Forty-three

 

Completing the Wales.

With the wales in position, the holes filled, it is time to think about colour.

Damn! I’ve just realised that I forgot to  thin down the back side of the wale strips for the first cm or so to give more of an impression of it fitting into the stem rabbet.

Too late to do this now  as it would destroy the planking lines, but I would suggest that future builders  do this as it is more authentic.

Before fitting the wales I looked at and trialled two different finishes as a change from my usual Humbrol matt black, or Admiralty Dull Black.

These are Vallejo Black Grey and Colron dark Jacobean Oak wood stain.

1370

Vallejo Black/Grey (left) Colron dye (right)

 

I dismissed the wood stain as it would have to be applied post fitting of the wale and it presented too high a risk of bleed onto the surrounding woodwork.

 

I start with Vallejo Black/Grey thinking the less than hard black may provide a more scale appearance to the wale finish.

Thin coats are applied as I am anxious not to hide the T&b plank lines.

1423(2)

This is the result after two coats, I will leave it at that for the present.

1418(2)

Wales do tend to get marked during the build process and there will be the need to apply more coats.

1420(2)

Not set in stone, but I quite like the muted black effect.

 

Above the wale is the black strake; not always black but on the Joseph Marshall painting of 1773 it is, so black it will be.

The kit provides pre-spiled strips for these, no fitting issues but it is perhaps strange that the engraved plank butt lines match those to the top wale strake.

This is of little consequence as  they don’t stand out under the paint.

I used ca to glue these strips to the hull.

1444

The outlets for the scuppers were drilled from without but I didn’t risk drilling completely through to the waterway.

1439

The flanges for the outlet pipes will be added later.

1437(2)

 

The next job is to re-do the Port linings, what joy.🙄

 

B.E.

29/11/21

 

[glbarlow]

I’ve found Admiralty Ironworks Black looks great on wood for more of a Matt finish than the Dull (really gloss) black. I used it on Cheerful’s booms and spars to a nice effect. Your wales look great. 
 

Not a soul would know if the scuppers connect to the waterways, like you id not attempt that. 

Edited November 29, 2021 by glbarlow

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Glenn, I think I meant 'Ironwork' black rather than 'dull' black, I used it on Cheerful as well. The dull black is just too shiny for my taste, it's an odd name  given the effect.

 

B.E.

[Moonbug]

  Nice work B.E. - Please do let us know what you use for the flanges for the outer scuppers - something I've been pondering over myself.

 

 

[Chuck]

That is looking really good.  Nice planking job.  That will be a fabulous model.

 

[Blue Ensign]

 Hi Bug - on Pegasus  I think I used  thin slices from small diameter aluminium tubing flattened on the anvil.

As I recall there was a big attrition rate to get the dozen or so required.

 

@ Chuck - Thank you Chuck, I am leaning heavily on your wonderful Winnie build for ideas, and I hope to replicate the minimal planking pattern design of the Foc'sle and Quarterdecks. I do hope you don't mind. 🤞

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Forty-four

 

That stern business

I had intended to fit the port linings next, but with the stern patterns and Qtr galleries on my mind, I won’t settle until it’s sorted.

I have to admit that I approach this task with a deal of trepidation. I have not actually fitted a Qtr gallery  for over thirty years, Pegasus had a Badge, not a gallery, and that was tricky enough as I recall.

 

This is one of the critical areas of construction with multiple parts requiring to be aligned.

 

Additional self inflicted difficulties arise because my intention is to open up the galleries and install seats of ease, which means a deal of modification to the Quarter gallery patterns.

Whether I can pull this off, or come to the conclusion that it’s not worth the effort I don’t know until I get into the assembly.

 

I had done some preliminary work when I fitted the lower counter, so I will start with the Stern facia inner and work everything from that.

This needs to be high enough to allow for the 1mm  Quarterdeck rail with 1mm to spare.

The Upper counter (inner) requirements will then be clear.

 

The assembly will be looked at concurrently with the Qtr Gallery fitting as the top and bottom edges of the counter are critical to the mouldings that match up with those of the  gallery. There will be a lot of temporary pinning and fitting before I finally commit to glue.

To begin the process I separate all the parts relating to this area so they are handy to check fit as I go along. Identifying, locating, cutting, and sorting all the parts took a surprising amount of time.

1451

The Inner stern facia is pinned into place; tape is used to mark the line 2mm below the point where the bulwark meets the facia. A check is made to ensure the extensions are equidistant each side.

 

The upper counter can now be tried in place.

1469

As can be seen there is a gap between Facia and counter, not unexpected but I need to decide whether to fit the upper counter hard against the facia or fill both sides.

1474

At this point I am also trial fitting the Quarter Gallery pieces to get a feel for how the assembly will  hang together.

1465

I think I will  bevel and butt the upper counter against the facia bottom, the lower gap is less  important as is more easily filled and covered with a moulding.

1462

The line of the galleries suggests to my eye that the positioning is  ok so tomorrow I will glue the facia and upper counter in place.

 

B.E.

30/11/21

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Forty-five

Fitting facia and counter

I first glue the upper counter in position with the facia still temporarily pinned in place.

The gap at the bottom is filled with a narrow Pear wood strip.

1482

With counters dealt with, the facia is removed and re-glued into place.

 

It is a bit of a milestone having the facia in place, it transforms the model into an 18^thc  naval ship even in its basic form as at present.

 

 I now reach the the point of a major modification.

It concerns the middle pattern (of three) that form the shape of the Quarter galleries.

This one carries across what would be the gallery space and block the  doorway.

1478

This is an initial template of the piece that would have to replace the solid part 45.

 

I’ll have a play around and see what material works best, possibly Boxwood sheet will provide the makings.

I will start with cutting an example out of mdf and see how I go.

 

Although I may ultimately decide that the result is not worth the effort, I’ve nothing to waste but my own time, and a little material, and I rather like the idea of a little figure making use of the seat of ease.

 

B.E.

01/12/21

Edited December 1, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[hollowneck]

Well done, Sir.

I like how you've tackled the one-piece wale patterns and solved the dilemma at the stern. After scratch-planking my wales I moved the six scuppers up from the wale to just above the black strake. The "angle of drainage" from the waterways still works.

 

Perhaps Chris can 3D print Lord Cochrane sitting on a seat of ease for you!

We need to be able to view him thru the gallery lights though...

 

Ron

 

 

Edited December 1, 2021 by hollowneck
grammar!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ron, I do have a suitable 1:64 scale figure  in mind for the role, a laser cut substitute part 45 would have been useful tho'.🙂

 

Post Forty-six

 

Modifying the Gallery

Time to clear the deck and get the scroll saw into position.

1488

The first trial to see how the mdf holds up.

1491

So far so good, the mdf has withstood the scroll blade without splitting.

1494

Final finishing is done gently by hand with sanding sticks.

1502

A trial fit.

1503

The forward end is drilled and pinned.

1506

Adding the other patterns which thankfully won’t need replacing.

1510

The line looks good to my eye.

1511

 

I think the modification is doable so I will try one cut from Boxwood sheet.

On any final piece, once it is in place the back and inner sides would be  fined down further.

 

Back to the scroll saw

 

B.E.

02/12/21

 

 

Edited December 2, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Chuck]

I would think about omitting the pieces of the qgallery frame that sit against the transom and the hull.   Why would you need it?  Just use the front outside curved timber.  Once the planking is added to the counter it should make it very strong.  It certainly makes cutting it out easier and gives you more room inside gallery.

 

Just a thought.  Similar to this.

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Chuck, a case of not seeing the wood for trees, and I have been looking closely at your Winnie set-up as well.

 I'm glad you looked in.👍

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Forty-seven

 

Gallery -Part Two

I have replaced  the middle  gallery pattern (Part45) with a replacement Boxwood Frame.

1528

The lower pattern (45a) and its lower slot sits too high to represent what would be the floor of the gallery so this too will need modification at some point.

 

The problem is compounded by the later insertion of another filler piece (45c) between the middle and lower parts 45 and 45a which would block off the gallery opening  below the window level.

Parts 45c and 45a provide the formers against which the berthing pattern (159) is glued below the window pattern.

 

I concluded the issue could be resolved by doubling the depth of the middle frame to incorporate what would be part 45c.

A frame was cut to match  Part 45c which was glued to  Frame 45.

1561

The  combination frames pinned into place.

1565

The part 45a as shown here will not be fitted.

1573

Before fitting, the frames will require bevelling to suit the fit of the Gallery window pattern and Berthing pattern.

1570

To create a gallery in this style effectively means working from middle/bottom up rather than middle/top down as per the kit instructions.

 

Fitting a seat of ease is required to be done before I fit the gallery window pieces and gallery top, but after the finishing piece is installed, as this will provide the floor. Any painting/varnishing of the gallery interior will also need to be done at this point.

The finishing piece comprises  four parts (29,45b,46)

1580

To assemble the finishing piece I used double sided tape to secure part 29 to the hull, it effectively runs along the top of the Black strake below part 45a the slot for which can be seen.

The other parts were  glued to part 29 insitu on the hull. The lowest part of the finishing piece follows the angle as indicated by the yellow tape.

1558(2)

Finishing piece assembly, Starboard side.

Note the angle of the two lower pieces(46) of this assembly.

 Shaping and fitting these will be the next task.

 

B.E.

04/12/21

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Forty-eight

 

Gallery – Part Three

 At this point I have to attend to forming the Finishing piece.

Not an easy task I think with multiple angles and subtle curves. No comforting pre-worked piece from Chris here unless you include the blocky patterns that make up the piece.

On this detail from the  original Admiralty plans the finishing piece sits just forward of the wale end with the forward edge following the angle line of the Berthing.

1586

Gallery detail from the beautifully drawn plans by Chris Watton.

1601

Part 29 which is the top of the finishing piece is effectively the floor of the gallery so a frame is required to sit atop this to replace part 45a as the bottom fixing point for the Berthing pattern.

 

Confused yet? I know I am.🤔

 

A Boxwood frame is made to replace part 45a.

1591a

The frame is pinned and glued into place.

The block Finishing piece is held in place tight against the part 45a frame to ensure a good fit.

 

Shaping of the Finishing piece can now begin

A bit tricky deciding where to start with the shaping, and how to hold it during shaping.

As it happens I didn’t find it too difficult on either count.

 

The blurb indicates  leaving the back edge of the piece untapered, sanding the forward part to a fine edge.

The back edge needs to be bevelled downwards to follow the  aft edge concave curve of the wale.

 

I start by sanding the back edge of the piece to match the aft curve of the wale.

Fortunately the mdf is soft so is easy to form. The biggest danger is getting  too enthusiastic and take too much off or damage the shape.

 

Soft hands, small strokes, and constant fit checks are the order of the day.

1619(2)

1608(2)

Shaping in progress.

 

This is one of those tasks that is difficult to describe, but hopefully as you get into it you start to see the shape emerging and get an appreciation of where to go.

1634

1631

1627

The Finishing pieces are glued to the hull and frame 45a.

The final finishing of these pieces will be done once the  Berthing pattern is in place.

 

A seat of ease will now be added to the Portside gallery.

 

B.E.

06/12/21

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Forty-nine

 

Gallery-Part three

A seat of ease is constructed using Box and Pear and is fitted to the Portside Gallery.

Brian Lavery (Arming and Fitting)  suggested that only one gallery was fitted out as a head, the other used for storage and observation of the sails.

1652

1657

1658

I can now fit the top Qtr gallery pattern (45) followed by the outer stern facia pattern. This now protects the somewhat flimsy inner pattern.

1672(2)

On the kit version inside the gallery is painted black to hide construction detail. On my open gallery style I have painted the  insides Vallejo Ivory which will help light the interior.

1665

At this point I’m not sure about fitting the Upper outer counter pattern as I’m not a fan of the raised etched Name lettering provided in kits.

My favoured approach is to use dry-rub lettering which has a more authentic and period look to it.

 

I had a play around (with Chuck’s permission)  using the decorative friezes and panels applicable to Winchelsea.

1689

1677

The name was replaced using Photoshop and Paint, only mock-ups at present, and the letter style needs adjusting, but I’m rather drawn to the paper frieze approach.

I will return to this much later in the build.

 

The next post will hopefully see completion of the gallery assembly.

 

B.E.

07/12/21

 

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[DelF]

57 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

A seat of ease is constructed

That's a relief!

 

Seriously though, that's another great modification that I'll shamelessly copy when I eventually get round to Sphinx.

[mtaylor]

Regarding Lavery's comments about the gallery.... some sources say that the Captain often used the empty one as a private office. with small desk and a chair or two.

[Blue Ensign]

Sabotage in the Dockyard

 ……..and things were going so well.

Until Mrs W arrives and asks is this something to do with you?

1698(2)

I had minutes earlier  been searching my bench and floor for a missing Window pattern.

4447

The face says it all, and the perpetrator is confined to Quarters for the present.

 

So unless I can prevail upon Chris to supply a replacement I will have to fashion one from some scrap, and I was hoping to complete the Galleries today.

 

Hey Ho

 

B.E.

 

 

[BobG]

On 12/8/2021 at 4:02 AM, Blue Ensign said:

The face says it all, and the perpetrator is confined to Quarters for the present.

I think he was just trying to help you out by finding the missing part for you...and got a little bit carried away with his excitement when he found it! 

[Blue Ensign]

That's a generous thought Bob, but he applies Spaniel rules - if it hits the floor, it's mine.

 

I live in fear of stuff dropping off the bench that may harm him. My biggest fear are needles and scalpel blades, he's had both.

Unable to find a missing needle one day I had to take him to the Vets for an x-ray. I dropped him off, returned home to find the needle on the kitchen floor- he had had it.

That episode cost me the price of a medium sized  kit, I'm now paranoid about needle and blade control.

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Fifty.

 

Completing the Galleries.

Now is the time it will become apparent whether my meddling has adversely affected the proper lie of the window and berthing patterns.

1696

Starting with the inner window pattern.

 I have worked on the basis of keeping the frame unaltered and running along the top line flush with the top of the frame.

I am using pva for this fixing to give me time for minor adjustments to the position. The outer pattern is checked for fit before the inner sets.

I was always expecting to have to do a fair amount of fettlin’ as I had  gone off piste with the gallery construction, and so it came to pass.

The day didn’t start well, the dog ate one of the outer window patterns another split during fitting, and the back edge of the assembly seemed to overhang the stern facia by 1mm, almost certainly due to my fiddling with the frames.

Not an unsurmountable issue as I will fix a work-around.

 

The Berthing piece is a short strong section of Pearwood that should follow the curve of the  pattern (45c).

I felt the need to soak this piece and  shape using the pattern I no longer needed as a former.

1694

In the end I scratch made the Berthing patterns to better fit my build.

The Berthing was pinned over this former and left overnight.

On the subject of Berthing patterns I had some discussion with James about which way around they were fitted.

1700(2)

It would seem that the end with the broader angle (on the right here)  fits at the stern end and butts against the Upper counter.

As the decorative mouldings follow the relative lines top and bottom around the stern counter and gallery this makes sense.

 

So, the basic portside gallery is completed.

1721(2)

1722

1720

My purpose in undertaking this modification is to bring a sense of light and element of depth to the Quarter Galleries rather than a dead black space behind the lights.

Opening up the doorway and the absence of planking on the Quarterdeck will fully achieve this.

1730

 

 

Rather than use the provided Upper counter outer pattern I planked the counter with individual Pear strips.

I  don’t intend to use the etched brass lettering on the counter and I didn’t want the pre marked positions limiting my choices.

 

1745

A little more work is required on the lower finishing piece where it meets the wale but overall I am fairly satisfied thus far.

1731(2)

1732(2)

1733(2)

I’ll leave this aspect of work until I receive the replacement window part for the Starboard Gallery.

In the meantime it’s back to port lining, at least with the outer Topsides patterns now in place it is easier to see how the linings should sit.

 

B.E.

10/12/21

 

 

[usedtosail]

B.E. I think the extra work you put into those quarter galleries really paid off. They look great.