HMS Sphinx 1775 by Hollowneck - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[hollowneck]

I am starting this Build Log midway in this very interesting and fun project. I'll start with a photo of my overall progress and then there will be the normal, very specific photos about build details I'd like to share with the reader's of this thread.

 

The first thing that I should note is that I am building this model as a sister ship to the Sphinx, HMS Camilla - same era. I have posted an earlier Kit Review of this Vanguard model that covered my early impressions which I can now amplify as well as offer additional insights as I've moved along on my build. I hope the followers of this thread will think it helpful; that is certainly my intention!

 

Here we go...

[Thukydides]

Looks really good, I am really interested to see how you do your sails and your dioramas. I will be following along.

Edited November 2, 2021 by Thukydides

[hollowneck]

Since I'm playing "catch-up" with my postings I'll mention that these first Build Log photos are NOT SEQUENTIAL. Obviously, I've spent a number of hours getting to point A (the first photo-😁)...and these photos I'll explain, but there may be random "backtracks" as I continue here.

 

The Gratings and the companionway close-up: the purpose here is highlighting the little black beads that simulate cannonballs which are a nice scale-accurate (or close to it) inclusion in the kit's "fittings" box. The little balls were too shiny for me; my 5 yo granddaughter  asked me: "Gampy, where did you get those cute little beads?"...uh... Good question, out of the mouth of babes. So I went back painted all of them FLAT BLACK MATTE. Just a tiny touch to each with a small brush. They now look like iron balls and not something random one finds in the beading aisle at Joanne's Fabrics. Not a big deal, but we collectively agonize over minor stuff like this; it's sort of what this hobby is all about- sort of. You don't need to look too close to see the ordnance as they appear in shiny bead black. 

 

Next photo, a close-up of deck goodies showing: A. a breech-rigged cannon; B. how I've finished my upper interior bulwarks (with the kit's included spirketting and laser cut deck clamp pieces); C. the hanging knees behind the quarterdeck beams; and D. the pump's iron fittings (also in flat black matte paint to show proper - non rusted - iron) and mid-deck bitts and a partial companionway (with the little "beads").

 

I am often asked how I get the nice warm look to most of my period models. Nothing unusual here: four shades of Minwax, available at Lowe's. Natural, (my favorite for most quality hardwoods I use and the extensive amount of pear that's included in this kit; Golden Oak for areas that I want to appear darker than the warm pink hue of pear and simulate a more accurate color for oak; Weathered Oak whose name speaks for itself. I used this on this kit's maple, one-piece deck patterns ("patterns" is a general name Vanguard gives to many pre-cut, precision lasered items in this kit). I've applied this stain to the gun deck. I may apply a "second coat" before I button-up everything amidships. A can not shown ( I misplaced it, somewhere...), Chestnut stain. This color I use on my deadeyes and most rigging blocks. I understand chestnut was used extensively by the British navy for this purpose - along with lignum vitae pulleys, both purpose-suited because of their inherent hardness. I'll stain my deadeyes soon, before they get mounted in their iron chains.

 

It should be noted that I paint and stain all my modeling components as I build. I am constantly opening and closing various jars and cans as I build. Simply stated, I make "aesthetic decisions" as I work; these are typically about color of individual component finishes - like cannon balls! I also depart quite often from proscribed building steps for a host of reasons which should become apparent as I develop this log. I need to mention that the build manual and the extensive plans that come with this kit are excellent and generally-speaking, the construction steps are sequenced in a manner that most will appreciate, especially intermediate level modelers.

 

Lastly, the tools I use to remove "char" from all the laser-cut wood in the kit. I've probably spent 60 hours alone (so far) removing "Char."🤯

My tools for this boring, but essential task: lots of emery/nail sanding files I buy at beauty supply stores. They last forever. But I buy new ones often as I frequently wash them and they soften and go limp after a while. Everyone knows there's not a lot you can do with a limp file.

When I'm de-charing, I often slap the file on my jeans (don't tell my wife) to unpack the fine sanding dust. Works. But they do eventually need to be taken to the sink. Moving on, two from my set of diamond-encrusted mini-files shown here. The tapered round one is especially useful. Worth the money. My soft, sable hair brush. The brush I continually use on all the various surfaces of the model for clean-up as I build. It is helpful to dust the char off tiny pieces like the miniscule hanging knees shown here. The curved stem piece appears to cast a shadow; actually that's the very dark "char" that needs to be diligently removed. Goodbye Char!

 

And, yes. I did leave it on all my cannon carriage wheels. Good idea, Jim! The manual says this is an option. I obviously agree.

 

More to come....

 

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by hollowneck
grammar fixes

[hollowneck]

Thanks, Thukydides.

 

Sails I expect will happen around late December/January since I anticipate masting and rigging will commence sometime late this month. Diorama in mid-February/March, if I'm lucky. I'm planning for the diorama now, but I'll explain preliminary thinking for the presentation "case" reasonably soon as I think about how the sails will be deployed, the bearing of the ship and how it will appear in the water (degree of list and roll - pitch and yaw to pilots - which partially determines the dimensions of the base). I even have thought about the weather that this ship diorama will present. How's that for a little bit of Crazy, huh?

Ron

Edited November 2, 2021 by hollowneck
spelling error

[hollowneck]

Everyone knows I meant 1775, right?🤣

 

[Landlubber Mike]

7 minutes ago, hollowneck said:

Everyone knows I meant 1775, right?🤣

 

 

Looking forward to this one Ron, especially with the upcoming sails and diorama.  

 

For the title, I think you can go back and edit it if you go to the first post.

[hollowneck]

Some background on HMS Camilla.

 

Note that the painting shown here is for HMS Camilla, in 1796 , by artist John Thomas Serres

 

"HMS Camilla was a Royal Navy 20-gun Sphinx-class post ship. Camilla was built in Chatham Dockyard to a design by John Williams and was launched in 1776. She served in the American Revolution, the French Revolutionary Wars, and the Napoleonic Wars, before being sold in 1831."

 

That's about 55 years! But who's counting? Extraordinary service by the standards of any nautical era I know about.

 

"Camilla was commissioned in May 1776 and sailed for North America in August. There she captured the privateer schooner Independence, John Gill, Master, of six carriage guns, eight swivels, and 50 men. She was on a cruise from Boston.Camilla also captured Admiral Montague, sailing from Hispaniola to Rhode Island with a cargo of molasses and coffee, a chance sailing to Georgia with coffee, and Polly, sailing to Surinam in ballast."

 

Loads of info on HMS Camilla here where the above has been researched : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Camilla_(1776) 

[hollowneck]

Mike.

Fixed. Thanks, I knew that.🤫

 

Ron

[hollowneck]

More photos, explanations as follows...I'll call this set "Drilling and sawing"...necessities.

 

The rigging pulleys ( I believe the braces)  along the bulwark sides (2 places, each side) do align nicely with the built-up woodwork, but I chose to run a drill through them so that there is free clearance when it comes to rigging. Getting the line through the pulley UNDER the shroud stool will be lots o' fun!

 

First. drilling the catheads. Although not detailed in the manual, I know that when rigging rears it's head, I'll want to have the anchors trussed-up nicely near the cathead weighing lines. Good idea to have rope passing through the cathead for this. The small, cleverly built-up pieces have photo-etched tiny holes that...uh, go nowhere. That is, until I took my #72 thumb drill (.61mm dia) and pierced all six holes (love these little buggers). Make sure to drill on a flat surface and hold your drill as perpendicular as you can since it's easy to miss and drill off center, which would not be good.*

 

*Ignore this commentary should you be building the Sphinx kit as an "admiralty-styled" model without rigging, which I suspect some will do as it is designed at least partially for this specific modeling approach.

 

By test fitting the catheads into the foc'sle surround you'll quickly see that the "openings" for mounting these to the deck are inadequate and rather than try to coax an opening to fit the cathead into the bulwarks through via a square hole with a file and X-acto knife, I decided to saw a tight-fitting slot from the top nearly all the way down to the deck surface. Some may already note that there are TWO (2) additional wrap-around pear wood pieces that must also be mounted to this bulwark arrangement (to basically thicken it). These will also need the "slice" in order to accommodate the cathead(s). Shown here: the starboard cathead is temporarily plugged into place (purposeful tight tolerance here) and the port side shows the opening I've made for each. Be careful to not saw down too far on the exterior of the prow. I did pop-out the corresponding S & P gunwales to check that the depth-of-mounting for the steeply-angled catheads would be adequate to sit below this finishing pattern provided as a single, long piece (both sides). I'll see very soon how the cathead's external supports mate-up and meet as they should. 

 

There is some tricky modifying here to both the PLYWOOD as well as pear patterns; I have no idea why one would try to fiddle this area by opening the square holes to allow the catheads to fall into place properly (through three separate stacked pieces, on each side). Perhaps I'm missing something here, but when holding the gunwales to their respective mounting positions, the fit of the cathead to the deck and below the gunwale looks fine to me: no gaps, weird, wrong angles, etc.

 

Edited November 2, 2021 by hollowneck
corrections to prose

[hollowneck]

"Alexa"- play Irish sea shantys." For those who may have noticed her in my first image post here.

 

I nearly always have music in the background in my shop. If one could wear out CD's, the soundtrack to Master & Commander would be on its sixth reincarnation. Music helps me concentrate, but I realize others may find it distracting. I think it depends on whatcha like.

 

In addition to pretending I'm standing on the decks of my models as they're being built, I imagine a small consort playing Corelli in my drawing room. You know, late baroque (my favorite) welcoming my guests from London into my country house, just a few miles from Portsmouth...afterall, I do own the shipyard where she is being built!

 

Ron

Edited November 2, 2021 by hollowneck
grammar

[BobG]

Great explanation, Ron! I'm so glad you decided to share your modeling knowledge with us on this build.

[hollowneck]

You are most welcome, Bob. Thanks. Some of this knowledge will be my particular deep dives into how I modify kits with various degrees of "scratching" to make them my unique vessels, re-badged, but actual and not "fake." For example, my LeTigre was a renamed "Alert" cutter kit (Vanguard). I my mind, I envisioned HMS Alert being captured and re-branded while she was sailing and raiding while in French hands. Which, as I understand, wasn't for very long.🤣

 

Ya'll will just have to put up with my humor though!

Ron

[hollowneck]

em·bel·lish·ment - /əmˈbeliSHmənt

plural noun: a decorative detail or feature added to something to make it more attractive.
 

Although the kit supplied rigging materials are quite adequate, I decided to use a slightly smaller size for the mid-deck companionway safety rope. The manual calls for rope that is .5mm. I substituted .35mm diameter rope from my stash and I liked the appearance much better: not least of all, the better color and the way it hangs, the "swag." As will become apparent in additional photos, I have concentrated on fine details of the mid-gun deck,  like the pumps that are very cleverly designed in this kit.

 

The chain pumps are lasered from MDF as a single piece with added cladding pear boards: nice. However, the "spout" isn't a spout exactly, just a square lump. After failing to make this look like a convincing square opening, I hacked this protuberance off and glued on a small slice of Evergreen Plastics 3/16" square white styrene extrusion. Say that 10 times! The CA held well and then I painted it in brown acrylic, two coats. Next time (ha-ha) I'll roughen-up the plastic's smooth surface so the paint adheres a little better.

 

The hand pumps too are clever: the mechanism is crafted with several pieces of small P/E which then attach to a walnut dowel. I wanted the hand pumps to stand out against their larger brothers behind them so I substituted a piece of birch dowel, stained it in weathered oak and glued-on the tiny square spouts at their base. The tiny spouts were made from a piece of 2mm square stock, very carefully drilled-out. I use a sharp awl to create a tiny starter hole, then use a thumbdrill (my favorites for many detailing tasks) to accomplish this.

 

Two photos show the addition of "fancy" moldings on the channels (the Brits spell this "moulding'). I fashioned these with 1.5mm strip pear that has been shaped into a routed profile with a small brass scraper (other photo). Moving toward mid-deck, the other close-up shows the addition of (copper) scuppers, also missing from the kit's bulwarks: I added six per side, per historical convention. One doesn't add these unless there are proper drain holes where the bulwarks meet the deck internally. I added the appropriate drain holes with a small drill into the added waterways which are 1.5mm strips of pear, shaped to a triangular section and affixed to the deck at the base of the spirketting. I put a daub of dark paint to the drain holes.

 

Lastly, for this update, two pictures show the added gangway supports and the fit of the gangway along the top edges of the mid-deck bulwarks. The white "stick" is temporarily wedging the gangway pattern down onto the supports to see how the tolerances add-up before trimming and gluing said pieces to the bulwarks. This is going to be a slightly tricky task to pull-off convincingly, but I think it can be done by taking time to get very exacting tolerances right - like so many other areas of this kit.

 

An observation, and certainly not a criticism: the tolerances to a large number of this kit's components demand an extra high attention level to take the time to fit things together -  that - in many circumstances is simply removing char. As I've noted elsewhere (Kit Reviews), this kit has numerous components (not just the P/E I'll also note) that have tolerances that measure +/- .005 on adjacent fittings. Gulp. Pay attention, builders.

 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by hollowneck
spelling correction

[glbarlow]

22 hours ago, hollowneck said:

#72 thumb drill

Where did you get these thumb drills?

[hollowneck]

13 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Where did you get these thumb drills?

Amazon. Where else? A set of 4 is $20-something, but worth it.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Finger-Drills-Package-of-4/dp/B06XF39QTX

 

I also think MicroMark carried them a few years ago but not currently.

 

Ron

[hollowneck]

I know, I know. Most scuppers of the era were made from lead.

 

But in my workshop the EPA has been looking over my shoulder lately, so I made Camilla's scuppers in a more environmentally and human-friendly material.

Ron

[hollowneck]

oops, forgot this pic.

 

This photo shows (background) the scratched waterway with a couple scupper holes. You can also see the added pear lining piece on the base of one gunport. On the cannon, tompions will be affixed to most, with added release ropes threaded thru the gunports. These are made from toothpicks and tiny brass "eyelets." I'm certain the actual mechanisms were more complex than this...🤫 I have since removed the char on the carriage axles after someone noted this...(thanks, Chuck).

 

Important edit: You'll see the breeching rope is mounted to the cannon's cascabel BEFORE attempting to rig the eyebolt hardware into the corresponding holes alongside each gunport. This process makes mounting the cannon so much easier to accomplish. I don't do training tackle on my cannon (or trussing tackle, the upper eyebolts over the openings). There are modelers of this era who do add this embellishment and it can be impressive. For me, adding fiddly 2 mm blocks with .12 dia. proper rigging rope is beyond my patience level, especially for rigging 20 cannon (14 of which won't even be seen!)...

...that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

 

Ron

Technical note: all my log photos thus far are taken with my old iPhone 6, for convenience (2016?). Not great resolution with any of them, but it does the job.

Edited November 3, 2021 by hollowneck

[mtaylor]

Well done, sir.   And there's many tips to be gleaned from your log.

[hollowneck]

Thanks, Mark. I'm going to try and show as many tools and materials as possible as I continue. I know this helps me when I read a log.

We all use different tools and approach building tasks in our own ways, so seeing how something is achieved is just as valuable as why it was done.

 

My next post (perhaps tomorrow) will be about how I approached solving a problem that had me in a slight dilemma. It's about the option that this kit offers for not making it as an Admiralty-styled ship model. Sneak preview shown here...

 

Ron

[hollowneck]

I just realized I forgot to upload a photo for the hand pump after I added the scratched spout. You can also see the larger square spout on the chain pumps body; this one is 3/16" square so you can see that the hand pump spout is less than 1/8" square! Getting that round hole on center so it wouldn't break through the side of the square stock was nerve-wracking! I had to grip the tiny piece with a tweezer clamp when I drilled it.

Ron

[Jasseji]

4 hours ago, hollowneck said:

Thanks, Mark. I'm going to try and show as many tools and materials as possible as I continue. I know this helps me when I read a log.

We all use different tools and approach building tasks in our own ways, so seeing how something is achieved is just as valuable as why it was done.

 

My next post (perhaps tomorrow) will be about how I approached solving a problem that had me in a slight dilemma. It's about the option that this kit offers for not making it as an Admiralty-styled ship model. Sneak preview shown here...

 

Ron

oh, yes, please, that's something which is on my list of considerations as well

[Canute]

Ron, the thumb drills are sold by Micro-Mark, thru Amazon. They're in the fine print in that ad as the brand. And yes, Evergreen can be your friend for details.😁

[hollowneck]

Alright, alright...a good time to talk about whether to "Admiralty" or Not-to-Admiralty. I made my decision early-on but I suspect some builders of this kit will get well into their builds and then encounter the dilemma I faced early-on: which PROVIDED deck pattern to use?

 

The Vanguard kit provides this choice, which, to my knowledge is a first:  go "scratch," and go barebones with a thin ply fitted deck piece, or toss this item into your scrap bin and choose the nicely laser-etched - and thinner - maple pattern for both weather decks (foc'sle & quarter).

 

Here are a bunch of photos to illustrate how I approached "fixing" (upgrading) my decision to go with the very kool "etched" (laser engraved) decking.

 

The preferable decking patterns (.061 vs .071 thick for the ply version), have the "reveal" punch outs burned into the pieces. These are quite objectionable if one wants to use these for a fully-decked model - like me, for Camilla. I arrived at a remedy that I think works reasonably well.

 

First, sand off some of the residual char on the surface areas around the cutout lines (both deck patterns) - you can't miss this. The lasered lines will still remain prominent, but that's o/k....because...

 

You'll next fill the laser cut lines with stainable wood filler. This stuff is magical IMHO. It's STAINABLE, pilgrims. Which means it can take on a pretty good amount of color you'll apply to it. In this case, my MinWax Weathered Oak stain- which another photo shows as being quite grey at application. Don't panic, grey is good. Let it soak into the wood (Maple has decent open grain). The grey will subside slightly after you wipe off with a soft cloth. If one has made mental visual notes of the actual color of wooden decks on replica sailing ships, this will make good sense without going overboard (pun intended!) on ""weathering."

 

Carefully sand off the stainable wood filler residue after it dries - which is about 30 milliseconds. Cap that Wood Filler stuff or it turns hard as a rock in a few minutes. Use your fingers to apply it; fingers are good. I use these genetically - inheirited digital applicators all the time for aliphatic glue (TiteBond) and various fillers. This technique doesn't work as well with CA however...😂

 

Next comes the fun part: I use a crazy sharp stainless awl (one of my favorite bench items) and carefully (repeat, CAREFULLY) re-scribe the etched lines in the deck patterns - including all the planking lines, the butt end lines and....wait for it: the individual trunnel representations. I also scribe plank lines along the full length of the punch-out pieces (both deck patterns, BTW). The reason I do all this is that I want the deck patterns to ABSORB the stain I'll apply after all this minutiae - by slightly breaking through the wood surfaces - so the offending reveal opening lines are diminished. Note this word: diminished. These lines are not going to disappear entirely and hence, my next "fix" to make these unfortunate cut lines disappear, well, almost.

 

I'll add scratched, gratings of pear (from Russia's Falkonet kit company) near the quarterdeck front hatches which are presented open (since there are no provided kit gratings to add here). The tiny Falkonet grating piece I have on-hand is slightly out-of-scale, but acceptable to me because these "cover-ups" are going to be rather small anyway, lying next to the small coamings. These scratched pieces - that will not be entirely out of place - will cover-up the etch lines at one end of the deck. And at the far end, my added carronades (four- yet to be acquired) will cover-up the other set of cut lines, depending on where I mount them. By the time all the other deck candy and rigging is added - including belaying pins, the kit's kool detailed binnacle, a nice helmsman's wheel and rope coils - nobody will hold out a pointing accusatory finger and say to me: "Hey! what happened on the deck here?"

 

At least that's my post-build fantasy, and I'm sticking to it. Obviously, this is an irreversible decision as soon as I commit to adding deck furniture to the patterns...photos to come.

 

More pics later, maybe this weekend. 

 

 

Two ways to go: use the etched maple pattern (left) or scratch-plank the plywood one (where you'll need to glue the reveal punch-outs first).

 

 

The sublety of the staining: this is coat #1. After it dries, I'll add another. After 2 coats, it's diminishing returns on the effect of staining.

 

Brush it on liberally, it'll soak in: then wipe it off and apply another coat after thoroughly drying.

 

The "magic" filler and one of my secret weapons -  my scribing awl.

 

"A-ha!" New ventilation covers for the open hatches; they'll lay askew alongside the coaming openings, both sides and cover-up the offending laser etch lines for the quarterdeck punch out reveals.

 

 

Voila! A cover-up placed over the reveal etch lines. These are two of the kit's cannons in position for a visual check; I'll add proper carronades to the quarterdeck in good time.

 

 

Mein typical glue selection for a build; guess which one I use with my fingers?... The matte medium is used as an adhesive for most of the small P/E decorative pieces (upper bulwarks). Dries fast, most importantly, it's invisible when dry. However, be aware it is also a slightly flexible material post-drying.

Edited November 6, 2021 by hollowneck
spelling correction

[hollowneck]

8 hours ago, Canute said:

Ron, the thumb drills are sold by Micro-Mark, thru Amazon. They're in the fine print in that ad as the brand. And yes, Evergreen can be your friend for details.😁

Ahhhh, yes. Gotta read the fine print.

Evergreen can be everyone's Friend. But it begs the existential question: "Grasshopper: do wood and plastic go together?"

Thanks, Ken.

[hollowneck]

Making the kit's gangways. As is clear here, a wooden ship modeler can never have too many clamps (or have too much money). BE CAREFUL with these two-part pattern pieces. They require adroit clamping (after applying regular TiteBond to the thicker etched pattern, not the thin pear one). The edges will peel apart unless you clamp all along both sides - and at the ends. How do I know this? Don't ask. I had to re-glue the first one which opened-up.

 

I'm nearly ready to mount the ship's chains and deadeyes. First things, first: stain all the deadeyes in the color "Chestnut." Admittedly, this is a subtle color change from the provided oak-colored deadeyes. However, this color is a more accurate representation of actual pulley blocks and deadeyes of the era that were often made from English chestnut. Imagine that! English chestnut for His Majesty's Royal Navy.

 

I'm also looking waaaay ahead for accurately-sized belaying pins when it comes to rigging. These puppies are sweet! I'm going with the slightly larger ones after testing them in a sample bitt piece. Ten pieces at 9mm - anything else here you need to go to Google Translate. From Russia, With Love, I say: Falkonet. Like Vanguard, this relatively new kit company (as well as offering numerous pear bits n' pieces) also specializes in Awesome. 

 

Last photo here: the saw I use for the cathead and MDF chain pump surgery.

 

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by hollowneck

[hollowneck]

Before I button-up and mount the patterns to the beams for the forecastle and the quarterdecks, one last look at some details. The engineering in this kit is particularly impressive with the extensive provisions for the upper deck beams, stem and stern (foc'sle & q'deck). Again, the tolerances with all these pieces are exacting, the fits precise; this can be easily verified by placing one of the two deck patterns into position and seeing if there is much "play" from side-to-side, or front-to-back: I measured less than .15 -.20 in both deck positions. Stated in fractions this is approximately 1/64". If you've sanded and glued all the (many) beams in place carefully you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to mount and glue a precisely-cambered deck in-place, with a minimum of sanding and trimming.

 

 

A view of what you'll see peeking out from under the foc'sle after the deck gets mounted. Not much. Goodbye beautiful little oven...

 

The quarterdeck beam and carling structure: impressive. CTBR (Char To Be Removed), my new acronym for builder/followers of this log. Correct: I didn't bother making or installing the second cabin screens beyond the capstan. None of this additional fine detail will be viewed in my particular build. Perhaps, if someone uses a high-intensity flashlight and looks through the stern lights they might see the parquet flooring in the captain's cabin. No cannons in the officer's quarters. No hinges, window mullions nor doorknobs on the cabin screens, despite these superb little gems (mostly tiny P/E) that are provided in a revealed "Admiralty-styled"  version of the kit.

 

 

The foc'sle deck pattern should be flush with the engraved pear MDF beam overlay. The kit provides plenty of sanding margin for these deck pieces. I actually sliced-off about 3/64" with an X-acto, since it's a straight cut across the pattern at the rearmost beam. The fit all-round to the pinnacle of the stem and along the sweep of the bulwarks revealed very little "play." Circled here, this is what you want to shoot for, tight to the edge of the beam and all the way across from starboard to port interior bulwark. I removed a little residual overhang with a sanding file to flush it, side-to-side.

 

 

Char removed from the foc'sle beams and carlings. Cathead slots are not deep enough here (fixed). One set of the "Y" bitt posts are glued in position; this will help to locate the proper position of the deck pattern. Builders of the kit will see I also omitted the clever little doors to the galley area: this detail covered-up what little would be seen of my oven.

 

Test fitting the quarterdeck pattern to the interior bulwarks. The clamp is holding one of two additional bulwarks pear finishing pieces that build-up the thickness (and adds the attractive pear boarding) in this quite visible area. Note how precise the volute layers line up, three layers visible on the left. This area will also get MORE thickness with additional layering so it is reasonably critical to get this part of the build correct in the previous build steps. Here, my oak stain colors the edges. Once all components that make-up this volute are in place, I'll use a recommended small file to shape these attractive elements of this ship's decorative pieces, then re-finish. The interior gangway and the gunwale will fit into this tight area very precisely.

 

 

Another close-up view of the fit at the quarterdeck. Make sure the deck meets the forebeam area flush like the foc'sle pear decoration. I also trimmed this part of the deck pattern with a straight across cut that removed about 1/64". The slots above the gunport are for the gangway supports. The hanging knees on the far side of where a cannon will be mounted will hardly be visible, but for me, they're worth the time to make and mount. The etched spirketting piece, deck clamp and added waterway are visible, as is the added bit of pear to the sill I added to all my (visible) gunports (14).

 

A good view of the highly-detailed oven that few will see besides me (and my wife). This is made from a clever combo of pear and P/E pieces. For realism, I even rubbed grey chalk on the bricks to simulate ash, thinking this might invoke an aroma of a tasty roast beef pudding for Camilla's officers. Only I will ever know this detail: sometimes this can be part of the fun of doing what we dedicated ship modelers do.

 

That's still my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

Ron

Edited November 6, 2021 by hollowneck

[hollowneck]

Vanguard carronade "kits" pictured here. Got to order these pretty soon. They'll mount behind the built-up bulwarks on the quarterdeck per late 18th-century upgrades to these 6th-rates (4 on the q'dec k). These new and improved bashing weapons were a very effective tech innovation for close actions in boarding/marauding, capturing prizes. Sort of like depth charges for destroyers to go after submarines; game changer, sort of.

 

Ron

[hollowneck]

An update that shows some steps to mounting the foc'sle deck pattern and bulwarks finishing. Like elsewhere to this build, it pays to take one's time with the fitting of all these components. It has helped me immensely to gather ALL THE VARIOUS PIECES, prep them and then sand and/or file to get an optimum fit. This is pretty critical at two points: the volutes lining-up at the deck's edge and at the peak of the prow. As you'll discover there are a total of four (4) layers that comprise the bulwarks. I have also removed and fitted the forward gunwales to ensure the bulwarks patterns are in the right configurations and have close fits.

 

First, a quick pic of the boarding steps and some cautions.

The Boarding steps. These are trickier than they look to get right.  If they're slightly off on the horizontal plane, you'll see it immediately; so will others. Sand the char completely off on each thin (0.6mm) piece (2 pieces /step) and carefully place and glue the first one. I started in the middle purposefully: I chose the step on the lap strake and then worked up four more steps and finally adding one below on the wale. This way I made certain the completed steps were as closely aligned as my eye (and tweezers!) could place them. One's eyes are very unforgiving on the horizontal plane; when there is even a slight misalignment of parallel elements, it is easily noticed.

 

On we go to mounting the forward deck, mates.

 

Bending the bulwark build-up boards. After soaking in hot water and then clamping in-place as the manual advises, I let these two pear wood items dry overnight. Once properly fitted into place they'll make the prow's bulwarks nearly complete. After this step, there is one more layer to add: the twin "skins" of .6mm pear pieces (2).

 

The bulwarks pear pieces on both sides have been soaked in hot water and then clamped into place along the plywood shell of the hull. Make sure these are butted tight against the forward MDF hull-forming  filler pieces before you clamp the wetted wood in-place.

 

 

 

 

The circled area shows how four(4) total layers of wood comprise the forward bulwarks. The .06mm pear "skin" will bend easily to conform to the thicker one (3mm) that has been soaked and clamped overnight. Note how the layers overlap here.

 

This is the final "skin" layer of thin pear. This thin piece will butt against it's opposite side piece and should form a near-perfect butt joint. I will slightly sand an angle on the ends of both mating pieces so the abutting line is as visually narrow as possible.

 

 

 

The foc'sle deck pattern now mounted. As you see, this step will require lots of clamps - be careful, clamps can damage and/or mar the exterior, delicate pear rails. Work fast with your white glue; I didn't dilute mine so it would remain "stickier" as it takes a couple minuttes to accomplish this preparation. I applied glue across most of the underlying superstructure (beams and carlings), insuring that the glue extended to the very edges near the bulwarks so when all had dried, the curvature/camber on the deck wouldn't randomly spring up along the outer edges. This isn't critical but it will deliver a better fit with the final pear bulwarks items that have been previously described. The items under the large 'gator clips are to protect the edges of the mounted deck pattern while it dries.

 

 

The alignment of cathead slot/holes isn't perfect here, but not to worry. If you've previously made a tight-fitting cut to accommodate the catheads in the outer pieces (ply) this will help immensely to prep this area to present well in the end. After the final two layers of formed pear are glued in-place, I'll use my precision hand saw - and using the previous cut in the ply as a guide - I'll carefully remove each inner layer of pear and subsequently fit each cathead. Make these cuts slowly; better to remove less than too much. File and sand these layers after the saw cut for a more precise fit. The cathead pieces should mount flat and straight against the deck just below the "slotted opening" when it's all said n' done.

 

Ron

Edited November 8, 2021 by hollowneck

[hollowneck]

A small problem area and my fix. At the very peak of the bulwarks prow the ply and pear patterns didn't meet one another very well; there is a small gap. This annoyed me, even after placing a gunwale over this area to see how well it hid the visible "hole." As noted below the two pictures, this how I improved a minor flaw (a combo of my imperfect building and the basic kit design).

 

The second set of three photos is how I prepped the quarterdeck coaming pieces which are coming-up soon in my build.

 

 

Granted, this is an extreme close-up (don't all of us BuildLoggers love this 600% macro view?). There was/is a gap where the ply patterns meet at the peak of the prow area. The gap is a little smaller with the single piece, pear overlays. Placing a temporary bowsprit into its entry hole helps to visualize this area, as well as my fix. You can see a small sliver of 3mm X 1mm pear tucked-in between the ply and directly behind the outer pear patterns. A little CA applied here.  Yes, the top view will be covered by a tight fit with the mating gunwales, but not from a front viewing angle. It also doesn't help that the rails don't meet precisely, but I'll fix this with a small piece of horizontal pear strip to fill it: see next photo.

 

Voila'! Another thin piece of pear (1mm) to fill the most forward gap (vertical strip wood). Resting along the bowsprit In the foreground - (with slightly fuzzy focus), a 1.5 mm strip of "molding" pear from which I'll add yet another tiny horizontal filler piece between the rails that don't flush. I'll post a final photo of this area after I've mounted the forward gunwales; this will be the final "test" to determine whether or not all this fettling (great English word) is worth it. I think it will be, but we'll soon see!

 

EDIT: Forgot to mention that, of course, I'll touch-up the paint and stain after this filler-fix.

 

 

It took me approximately 1.5 hours to completely remove all the char from these three über-delicate, 1 mm thick quarterdeck pear coaming pieces. I also carefully sanded two sets of foc'sle bitts, that have been satined with Minwax Natural, my preferred "finish" color for pear. As you see, one section of the quarterdeck combo-coaming piece broke...😭

 

Broken 1mm pear coaming. Gulp. In the next photo, you'll note my repair with the blobs of white glue on the two joints. I scraped the excess glue off post-photo. The two diamond files are my preferred way to remove char from delicate sections - which in this instance - is not only on the perimeter of all these highly-visible items, but also on their interior, lasered cutlines. No, I didn't take time to remove the char inside from the capstan mounting hole nor the .3mm stanchion holes. What are you, crazy?!

 

FIXED. No one will ever know. After sanding-off all - repeat - ALL THE CHAR, I rounded the outer edges which will match all the other coamings on both the upper and lower decks.

 

Ron

Edited November 8, 2021 by hollowneck

[James H]

Looking real nice. Noted your fix at the front too, so that'll be a help if anyone experiences that. 

 

I worked to the last production prototype that was changed for parts that were amended, and this was my build in that area. Some things are unfathomable 🤣