Lady Nelson by Dave_E - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64

[Dave_E]

Good eyes Rick. 😳 Guess I get to build and use a special tool or two. 😆 One of the reasons I love using this forum! Thank you! 👍

[glbarlow]

10 hours ago, Dave_E said:

catwalks

Rat lines 😊

 

Hopefully the lines aren’t fixed yet so you can loose them in order to get inside for the boom and gaff as well as those missing cleats. Remember I mentioned bottom up, middle out.
 

Bees wax can help with furry lines.  Interesting comment about MS rope, I haven’t seen ROS’s product but there is no comparison to what Chuck provides, it’s worth its cost. 

 

You’re doing fine for a first model, hang in there. It will all pay off on your next one.

Edited April 24, 2022 by glbarlow

[Gregory]

22 minutes ago, Dave_E said:

Don’t know whether it’s cotton or polyester.

Hold a match under  it..  If it melts, it's polyester.

[Dave_E]

Thanks Glenn,

Cat 😳😆. No argument from me on ROS or Syren ropes for sure. I certainly hope all my boo-boos and learning will make my next build that much better. 👍

[Keith Black]

So sorry your rudder broke, Dave, that's such a drag. All the 100% cotton thread I've every seen has been fuzzy. There are cotton/polyester blends that are less fuzzy but for the time spent why not go polyester and be done with it. Poly doesn't rot like cotton but some folks say polyester thread stretches. I have a model I rigged years ago with poly and I don't see any sag. Some museums are now using polyester line on renovations. 

[Oldsalt1950]

Every build is a learning experience. New tactics, new tools, new skills. 

[Dave_E]

I may ask this more than once. In the photo below… how do I attach the block to the yard?

 

 

[lraymo]

Gorgeous!  It looks wonderful... and this is your FIRST build?  Wow, I'm blown away!!!

[Oldsalt1950]

Dave, I'd use some wire and CA glue. Wrap the wire around the block then twist together then around the yard and glue. When cured snip of the excess and paint.

[glbarlow]

See post #626 in my Cheerful log, substitute the block for the thimble. Personally I’d never use wire for any rigging. 

Edited April 25, 2022 by glbarlow

[Dave_E]

Keith, the rudder wasn’t too bad a disaster. Broke a couple hing points but the pieces were all there, so I was able to put the rudder back together, a little paint touch up and all good. Then I put it aside! 😆 Here is an update. I took apart the forward two shroud assemblies to better get at things. My career in aviation manufacturing and reading “drawings” has brought me to the conclusion that I hope the average set of drawings is not as bad as these of the LN. I have found so many discrepancies it’s not funny. However, I’ve learned to look past them. You can see in the photo, I had to add 3 pieces of block rigging to the top of the shroud stack on the mast cap. I’m pretty sure those should have been below the shroud stack. I got the cleats on the mast and have decided to leave the forward shrouds undone for now. I think my next step should be to get all the blocks onto eyelets that are on the deck. Still wondering how to do that. Glenn? 😁 

 

 

 

 

[Keith Black]

 

 

 Dave, you have to make a hook and then rig/tie the hook on the end of the block. As you may know I use wire to strop my blocks so for me it's relatively easy to do so. Glen doesn't use wire but the process is the same except you use line. 

Edited April 25, 2022 by Keith Black

[David Lester]

Your LN is looking great Dave. You mentioned getting blocks attached to eyebolts on the deck. Have you glued the eyebolts in yet? If not, it's easy to attach a block and eyebolt together and then glue the eyebolt and block assembly in place. If you have already glued the eyebolt in place, it's harder, but only by a little bit and will probably involve a bit longer piece of thread. Do you know about a "figure of eight" seizing?

 

Thread the line through the eyebolt, then make a "figure of eight" and add a seizing. Place the block in the loop and slide the seizing up tight against the block. Then you can pull both ends of the line and the block will snug up against the eyebolt. If you use a fairly long piece of line, you can add the seizing well away from the deck, where it's easy to hold the line in your "helping hands" clip.

 

This is also how I would attach a block to a yard, as you asked in an earlier post.

 

I hope I'm understanding your question correctly and I'm sorry if this is redundant.

David

[Keith Black]

 Dave, here is a great blog on making hooks.

 

 

 

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, Dave_E said:

get all the blocks onto eyelets that are on the deck. Still wondering how to do that. Glenn? 😁

By not putting those eyelets in until the blocks are attached.  I drill the holes per the plan but don't add those particular eyelets until the rigging phase, same with any on the outer hull.  So at this point pull them out, attach the blocks, re-drill the hole and add them back. blocks attached. Seizing the blocks to the eyelets is well explained above by Keith and David.

Edited April 25, 2022 by glbarlow

[Dave_E]

You guys are good! Dave, Glenn, silly me. You bet I’m going to yank those eyes out and do the rigging with the third hand arms. Keith, thanks for the block and hook tips, another bookmark. 😀 Got some thread in the mail and picked up a few new rigging helpers this morning.

 

Edited April 25, 2022 by Dave_E

[glbarlow]

The best tool for rigging are cuticle cutters and embroidery scissors - your snips won't help a lot with thin line. I wrote a bit about them in my Cheerful log somewhere.

[allanyed]

Hi Dave,

From Lees' Masting and Rigging the lower yard sling cleats were 1/25 the length of the yard between 1763 and 1815.  If this is an important point for you, the shape is in the sketch below.  The topsail yards were the same to about 1775, then were made like stop cleats set one yard diameter apart.

 

The lower yard rope strop style to about 1840 is also shown.  I agree with Glenn that wire was not used to secure any block, but for a super small scale model, I believe McNarry and others use wire at times.    

 

Allan

 

Edited April 27, 2022 by allanyed

[glbarlow]

That’s a good diagram. The two loops are the closed with a separate lashing . 
 

[Rick01]

Whilst you've got reasonable access to the mast you may want to think about adding a rest to the mast for the yoke to sit on. This is how I've fitted one to s tripped down version of the Lady Nelson.

... and here's one on a replica of a similar period ship.

 

It'll make life easier when fitting the boom.

 

Rick

[Dave_E]

Good idea Rick. Thank you! 👍😀

[Dave_E]

Hi All,

 

Afte a week of preparing the garage work bench for a place to do the sanding work, I have finished the yards and booms. I actually found the yards easy to make using a mini plane and sandpaper. Now on to the complete pre-assembly of each spar.

 

 

I actually had the mast top turned in one piece and then broke it when I reached across to get something while it was chucked up in the drill. 😖 It will glue back ok. 

 

[glbarlow]

10 minutes ago, Dave_E said:

😖 It will glue back ok. 

Make another one, don’t settle

[Keith Black]

 Dave, I agree with Glenn. There's going to be a lot of tension (more than you think) on the mast when you start rigging particularly the stays. 

[Dave_E]

Hi All,

 

I’m stumped. Should I remove all the shrouds in order to attempt to tie off lines on the belaying pins? There’s no way on God’s green earth I’m going to pull this off. I think I might have discovered why some builders forego the rigging of a ship model and make it with stubby masts and bow sprit. 😣 If my couple of hours looking at this and the plans are anywhere near correct, the shrouds should almost be the last items attached.

 

I did order smaller belaying pins and they were to small, fell right through the holes. And then there is the coiling of excess line after securing it to the belaying pin? 🤣😅😆 I believe rigging skills might just be a gift everyone does not have.

 

Not feeling to positive at the moment about completion.

 

[allanyed]

Don't give up Dave.  Regarding the belaying pins, would you consider removing the kit pin racks and make new ones with the proper size holes?  Looking at the photos there appears to be enough room to work.

 

For running rigging, it really should go on after the standing rigging.  A couple tweezers to handle the running lines are a must, that way you can work from either side of the model.  I use both straight and bent forms, spring type and locking type as needed.  SHARP scissors or a cutter of some kind is a must as well.   Blunt end suture scissors work well as it is less likely you will snag and cut an already rigged line when reaching in to snip off and Irish pendants.  Some like nail clippers but they can be difficult to maneuver into the rigging at times.  I prefer barber scissors as they are so sharp and hold an edge, my favorites being Joewell 4 inch and 5 inch from Tokosha Company.

 

Again, don't give up!!

 

Allan

 

Edited May 8, 2022 by allanyed

[wool132]

I see where some other folks have started their next build while finishing up the rigging. It appears to be less daunting when done a little at a time.

 

When in doubt, reread post #219.

 

Jonathan

[VTHokiEE]

7 hours ago, Dave_E said:

And then there is the coiling of excess line after securing it to the belaying pin?

Some builders (cough, cough myself included) separate this into two pieces of line. You tie off the first line and then glue a coil, that was created off ship, on separately. 

[SUBaron]

Hang in there Dave! Think outside the box and you may yet find a solution. I always see roadblocks like this as a perfect opportunity to invest in new tools 😆 

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Dave, if the holes in the pin rack are too big you could try pushing the rope down through the hole and tying it to the rack. Then push the belaying pin into the hole. Hang a coil of on the pin.  On a few of mine I found it easier to make a clove hitch and slide it up onto the pin under the rack, tension the line and then put a hitch on the pin above the rack. That area sure is a challenge.