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Posted (edited)

Does anyone have a recommendation for a work table they think is great for building ship models?  I have been using an old Craftsman workbench, but it has no leg room under the bench and it is difficult to sit down to work at. I seem to switch between sitting and standing, but for detailed work, sitting down seems to work better.  The work surface is also not very wide.   I have been making the table wider by clamping some plywood to it to make it easier to sit at, but its not very stable or level and stuff rolls off it a lot. I have considered putting a new top on it but, I don’t think that is the best solution.

 

 

1685F54C-425B-4B85-BD0F-D9737E53BC35.thumb.jpeg.bcab318ad8feb342cf4c69ea56e45c00.jpeg

 

Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions! 

 

Dan

 

 

 

 

Edited by DanB

Current Build:  Sultana 1:64

 

Completed: Lowell Grand Banks Dory

                       Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12

                      Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack

                      NRG 18th Century Merchantman Half Hull Project

 

Posted

Two 2-drawer metal file cabinets and a 30" wide lauan door.

 

John

 

Member: Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

Current Builds: Tugboat Dorothy  Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #1 (complete)

                            Iron Clad Monitor (complete) 

                            Sardine Carrier which I will Name Mary Ann (complete)

                            Pilot Boat John H. Estill Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #12 (my avatar)

                    Harbor tug Susan Moran

                    Coast Guard 100' patrol boat

Posted

I'm a slacker I guess.  My main work bench is "student desk" from a office store.  About 4 feet long and 2 feet dee[ (+/-).   The other "benches" I use for holding my power tools and are all "work benches" from the local Do-It-Yourself store.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 

I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.

The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.

There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.

 

The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.

I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.

I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.

The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.

 

I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.

 

 

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

I have two computer desks 60x30 and a small table between in a L-shape, Easy to sit at and have plenty of room under for plastic storage containers

Life is to short to be serious all the time. So, if you can't laugh at yourself, your not doing it right.

 

Current Builds

18th Century Armed Longboat 

 

Finished Builds

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack

Lowell Grand Banks Dory

Norwegian Sailing Pram

Posted (edited)

A lot depends upon your individual preferences and the limitations of your location. Some of us have a lot of room to spread out and, most, it seems, don't. Then there's the size of the models you build, which dictates the amount of table top you need. My preference is for a relatively small primary work table and however many rolling tool carts I need to hold tools and materials. The more tools you can "have a place for and everything in its place," the less time is wasted looking for tools that "were just there a minute ago" on a cluttered workspace. I have a rolling Kennedy machinist's tool cart (expensive) and a tool cart from Harbor Freight (inexpensive) that serve me well. I can roll them next to my work table where they are easy to reach from my rolling secretary's chair which is also somewhat height adjustable. (The cheap ones at the office supply stores are great.) 

 

As for a table top, I would suggest the heavier the better for stability. A fire door (not a cheap luan doorskin hollow core interior door) on top of a couple of file cabinets works pretty well. A solid box than can be placed on top of it to raise the work surface to what I call "jeweler's bench height" at near eye level is very helpful for working on very small parts. (Jeweler's benches are very expensive, but a lot can be learned from checking them out in the online catalogs.) Adjustable ergonomic forearm rests are also quite handy for a lot of work, but the store bought ones aren't cheap and I've yet to get around to building a sufficiently adjustable one, so they are still on my bucket list. Arm rests provide stability when working on fine stuff "up in the air," like rigging. (see pic below.)  I also have a couple of hard pressboard "semi-sacrificial" smaller table tops that sit on top of my work benches. I can cut them up and not mind if they get covered in paint and glue drips and other grunge. These have one inch rails across the back and sides to keep stuff from rolling off of them. They're very handy for keeping small parts corralled. 

 

I screw ferrous metal strips to the underside of the front edges of my benches where I do small work. I have a work apron into the hem of which I've sewn rare earth magnets. I stick the hem of my apron to the underside of the bench with the magnets when I sit down to work, creating a cloth "net" which often catches that little part that gets dropped and tries to disappear on the floor forever. It saves lots of time and aggravation! It also catches a lot of chips and junk that you'd otherwise be sweeping up at the end of a work session. Finally, I always install outlet strips on the front of work benches so that corded hand tools can be plugged in and used without the cords stretching over the table top from the wall behind the bench. That leaves the workspace clear and avoids disasters when the cord and the model collide.

 

Below: Harbor Freight rolling tool chest. They come in various configurations. This is the cheapest model at a couple of hundred bucks or less on sale or with a coupon. I attach magnetic strip tool holders and magnetic paper towel holders to them as well. HF sells the paper towel holders for around fifteen bucks and the magnetic tool holders are five bucks a piece.  https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/u-s-general-tool-storage/tool-carts/30-in-4-drawer-tech-cart-black-64818.html 

30 in. 4 Drawer Black Tech Cart

Adjustable ergonomic forearm supports. Costly at around $90 each. I'd love to have a couple for doing that close-in rigging work in the top hamper. For modeling, I'd be looking for ones that have more reach than the one pictured, though.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/175132691344?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=175132691344&targetid=4581183927179149&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179149&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c26ea7e8f632134640c7c56cabf27b90

 

 

 

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
Posted (edited)

Thanks very much to everyone for all of the helpful and informative replies! As usual, I have learned a lot from this group, and I am really glad I posted the question here. 

 

Dan

Edited by DanB

Current Build:  Sultana 1:64

 

Completed: Lowell Grand Banks Dory

                       Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12

                      Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack

                      NRG 18th Century Merchantman Half Hull Project

 

Posted

Dan, I think all of us have a different environment to have our shop setups.
My workshop already had huge L-shaped wall mounted standing table, 33 inches heigh.
The size is 16' by 6'! That's feet! The depth is to shallow in my opinion only 24 inches.
It was there when we bought our current house with separate non-functional garage now workshop.
Then I am using a foldable table to sit down at.

I am spoiled having too much space. 🙂

 

However, two kitchen cabinets with a solid top works (like an old flat front door) just fine as well. That's what I had before.
You can't have enough with drawer space. Helps to keep the clutter down. Which I am lacking off right now.

 

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted
15 hours ago, Nirvana said:

You can't have enough with drawer space. Helps to keep the clutter down. Which I am lacking off right now.

 

You're lacking clutter????   I though that was a necessary evil.  :D:D:D

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted
29 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

You're lacking clutter????   I though that was a necessary evil.  :D:D:D

Mark, I don't have enough with drawers...😄, my shop is cluttered!

 

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted
Posted

Hi Dan welcome to the club. As others have said it depend's on the room you have. Am lucky to have a two car garage and a extension I added on to make more room for my stuff. As far as work benches and desk looking at other people shops help you in figuring that out about what you want. Am always asking some one for photo's of their shop, some times just to see their shop which also helps me use their ideals for things in it must like work benches. I have never had any one say know and we all like showing were we spend are time working on our hobby's.  When I built my hobby desk I used Woodsmith plan of their small scale Hobby Bench which is on the cover. It reminded me of a jeweler workbench, and I have alway's wanted one. Nice thing about building your own is what you can add and the detail you put in to it.  I also have a 8 foot wood worker bench. My 74 has its on workbench and is much to big to build it on the hobby bench. Her work bench is height adjustable and I just added a tilting to it that allows me to tilt it one way or the other. Really is nice for  working inside the hull.  The Woodsmith  issue is Vol 37, No 219 Dated June/July2015.  Forgive for the mess. Gary

DSC_0655.JPG

DSC_0657.JPG

DSC_0659.JPG

Posted
55 minutes ago, garyshipwright said:

Hi Dan welcome to the club. As others have said it depend's on the room you have. Am lucky to have a two car garage and a extension I added on to make more room for my stuff. As far as work benches and desk looking at other people shops help you in figuring that out about what you want. Am always asking some one for photo's of their shop, some times just to see their shop which also helps me use their ideals for things in it must like work benches. I have never had any one say know and we all like showing were we spend are time working on our hobby's.  When I built my hobby desk I used Woodsmith plan of their small scale Hobby Bench which is on the cover. It reminded me of a jeweler workbench, and I have alway's wanted one. Nice thing about building your own is what you can add and the detail you put in to it.  I also have a 8 foot wood worker bench. My 74 has its on workbench and is much to big to build it on the hobby bench. Her work bench is height adjustable and I just added a tilting to it that allows me to tilt it one way or the other. Really is nice for  working inside the hull.  The Woodsmith  issue is Vol 37, No 219 Dated June/July2015.  Forgive for the mess. Gary

DSC_0655.JPG

DSC_0657.JPG

DSC_0659.JPG

That is a very impressive workshop and the hobby desk you built looks great!Thanks very much for sharing the photos. I am still really a beginner and do not have much space in my garage work area, but I am definitely getting the message the the more work space there is, the better. 

 

Dan

Current Build:  Sultana 1:64

 

Completed: Lowell Grand Banks Dory

                       Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12

                      Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack

                      NRG 18th Century Merchantman Half Hull Project

 

Posted

Thanks Dan and your very welcome. Hopefully with all the good ideal's from the member's ,this will help you now and in the future along with getting a chance to see other's table and shop's and plant ideal's for you to enjoy building.  Belive it or not my first work bench was two 4x4 and a couple of  pieces of plywood that made up the top and a shelf below it.  Enjoy the site good sir. .

Posted

As has been said, space is the determining factor.  I have a deep garage where we opted for a two deep car space on one side rather than a third bedroom.  (Too many bedrooms invites company to stay too long 😀}  In that relatively small space I have a home made table, a six foot desk table from an office that was replacing furniture and throwing out some desks, and my favorite, a heavy bench that my grandfather bought about the time my dad was born in 1919. t still has the wooden screws for the wooden vices and probably 1/8" thick layer of shellac and such.   My favorite story with "Didi" was when he was doing some antique restoration work for Joe and Rose Kennedy and got to meet them at their home in West Palm Beach.   Now if I can only get someone like that as a client!!!  

 

Go with whatever fits, you cannot have too many work surfaces.  Clutter???  In my case, somewhat perpetual unless another model builder or potential buyer is coming buy.

 

I have seen one relatively small space that was as organized and clean as a hospital operating room though and absolutely over the top superior models coming from it.   I will not mention any name (Druxey)   .....oops,  did not mean to Iet that slip.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

I have one of these, as well as a Harbor Freight wood workbench that I cut down to table height. I detailed that modification somewhere on this forum, unfortunately I think that thread was deleted due to some members abusing it.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-W-x-24-in-D-Steel-2-Drawer-Adjustable-Height-Solid-Wood-Top-Workbench-Table-in-White-HOLT5202BJ2/311742117

 

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, thibaultron said:

I have one of these, as well as a Harbor Freight wood workbench that I cut down to table height. I detailed that modification somewhere on this forum, unfortunately I think that thread was deleted due to some members abusing it.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-W-x-24-in-D-Steel-2-Drawer-Adjustable-Height-Solid-Wood-Top-Workbench-Table-in-White-HOLT5202BJ2/311742117

 

This looks like it may be a good solution for me!  It will fit in the space where there current one with no leg space lives. It has some storage space and looks very sturdy.  From all of the responses, I have learned that more storage and more work surface are both very important, so I am going to reorganize the garage so there is some place to keep the other workbench. That project I will also keep me busy while I wait for the next kit to arrive. 

 

Dan

Edited by DanB

Current Build:  Sultana 1:64

 

Completed: Lowell Grand Banks Dory

                       Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12

                      Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack

                      NRG 18th Century Merchantman Half Hull Project

 

Posted

Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.

It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.

Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.

The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.

Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)

 

Posted

My main bench is made using an Ikea wooden kitchen worktop mounted to construction-grade 2x4s. It was built to take a Myford series 7 lathe and associated tooling, and is bolted to the floor and wall. The lathe is long gone but the bench is now re-jigged to make better use of the underside storage for modelling (if I ever get back to it!). It is complete overkill for my present needs but was what was needed back then. 

The rule I have used for each of the several benches I have built, both in businesses and homes, is simple: ask yourself 'what do you want to do at the bench' and make what is needed. 

The two things I then add to the mix are (1) make it strong and stable enough to handle the worst you can imagine happening while going about your intended business and (2) be VERY careful of storing anything above/behind the bench. Whatever you put there, it will fall sooner or later and that is where your model will be.

There is also a smaller bench nearby where I have the Byrnes saw, a disc sander and a mini milling machine. I recently made a new conti-board top for it to raise the entire working surface about three inches, putting a series of shallow drawers underneath. Wish I had done it years ago, luv them drawers. 

Many a good bench has been made using a door and a couple of saw-horses. The variety of tales told so far in this thread show the real test is simply 'can I do what I need to do at this bench?'. 

Hope to see your final choice!

 

 

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

Posted (edited)

I think people should consider what exactly the "bench" will be used for.  If you need a sturdy bench to hold power tools, etc., then a "work bench" is probably better to get.  If you are looking for more of a table top to work on your models, then you probably can get away with a lighter duty table which will give you lots more options -- in particular, deeper options that work benches typically don't give.  Most work benches are about 20" deep or maybe up to 24" deep in rare cases.

 

For my set up, I started with two of the Harbor Freight workbenches which are about 60" wide by 20" deep.  I used to keep them back to back to have more of a workspace island, but now I use them separately to support power tools like my Byrnes tools, a small bandsaw, etc.  The bottom storage shelf, as well as the height of the bench, are not really ideal for sitting comfortably with your legs underneath.  For me this is fine as I prefer to stand when operating power tools. 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-63395.html

 

More recently, I added a Husky workbench that I believe is this one - it holds my Sherline lathe and mill, and the set I bought from Home Depot also included two rolling cabinets that slide under the table that give me additional work tops as well as storage.  I believe it is 72" wide x 24" deep.  

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-ft-Adjustable-Height-Solid-Wood-Top-Workbench-in-Black-for-Ready-to-Assemble-Steel-Garage-Storage-System-G7200S-US/206288247

 

For a table top to assemble my models, I use a Bekant table from Ikea.  It's 63" wide x 31.5" deep.  I find the depth very helpful when building models, as I can have paints, boxes, etc. on the table.  If you have the available space, it is nice to have a deep table top as a separate work station away from power tools.  There I can sit comfortably for hours.

 

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bekant-desk-black-stained-ash-veneer-black-s69282592/

 

 

Another major consideration in my experience is the layout of your work space when it comes to power tools.  Some power tools need a far carry behind the tool - e.g., a table saw, band saw, thickness sander.  While the tool itself can fit on the bench, you will need clearance behind it to run out wood or other material.  So, those benches really can't be placed against the wall.  Other power tools like a disc sander, lathe, mill, etc. don't have that requirement so they can be placed on benches against a wall.

 

I guess I would end by saying that if you aren't planning on using power tools, you have more options but would recommend going with as deep a table top as you can fit.  Power tools add a bunch of other considerations. 

 

 

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

My workbench is homemade,  framed with 2in construction lumber.  The top is 2in x 6in laid edge to edge covered with a sheet of 3/4in particle board fastened with sheet rock screws driven into the 2x6’s.  It was my intention 32 years ago that the particle board could be changed when it got beat up but I like seeing paint, glue, etc. from past projects so have left it alone.  The bench is securely fastened to the framing of the wall behind it.  I have a large bench vise on the left hand side and a carpenter’s vise in the middle.

 

Roger

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