36 Foot Admirals Barge by Blue Ensign – FINISHED - Vanguard Models – 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

I am still not ready to move onto a larger project, but I have had for a while an example of Vanguard Models 36’ Admirals Barge circa 1750.

I have included this build in the 1751-1800 section as it generally reflects the style from the middle to late 18th century.

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At £48 this is the most expensive of the current boat range, an added incentive not to cock it up.

The model has a length of 165mm - 6½” in old money – still pretty small to fit in the extra detail applicable to an Admiral’s Barge.

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The kit follows the build method common to this Vanguard range, plank over inverted bulkheads using Pearwood planks.

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Brass etch is provided for the footwaling and decoration, but the provided brass etch panelling has been replaced with Pearwood detailing also included in the kit.

 

I do have a fondness for this type of boat, having built three Pinnaces and Queen Anne’s Barge, and this bijou version presents some interesting challenges.

It is fortunate that there are several contemporary models of Barges in the NMM at 1:24 scale from which to draw detail.

One thing that catches my eye is that the kit is set up for double banked rowing - thole pins both sides for each thwart, and two rowers per thwart.

The contemporary models of this period invariably show Barges set up for single banking - one rower to each thwart seated alternatively port and starboard, with a longer oar shipped over the opposite side of the boat to the rower.

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A mock-up on my Pinnace build shows the arrangement for single banked rowing.

 

This is all a fair way ahead in the build and need not concern me yet.

Basics first.

 

 

B.E.

03/11/2022

 

 

 

[mtaylor]

I'm in as this is going to be beauty.

[Blue Ensign]

I hope I don't disappoint Mark. 🤞

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Two

Not the most exciting part of a build, but I don’t think James has covered the Barge in his build logs, so I’ll run thro’ the initial stage.

 

The bulkheads fit snugly into the building board to the underside of which a grip is glued to secure in a vice.

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In short order the next stage is to fit the delicate Pearwood keel.

This is a soft hands procedure and care must be taken not to force the keel slots into the bulkhead slots which are very fine particularly those at the bow and stern.

I tested each keel slot against its bulkhead partner before attempting the keel fit.

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The keel is eased into position, and I ensure it sits fully down on the bulkheads.

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The keel is also checked for true. Once satisfied diluted pva was run into the joints.

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Unlike other boats in the range the barge has a sub-deck. To fit this four of the bulkhead bridges have to be removed to allow access.

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One of the advantages of the sub-deck is that it should help to counter twist in the bulkheads once the fairing begins.

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The arms of the Flying Transom are glued into place.

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Fitting the Flying Transom is a tricky business, I opted to glue the arms to the fixed transom first, and then slotted the Flying transom between before the pva hardened off.

 

The hull is now set aside for the glue to set.

 

B.E.

04/11/2022

 

 

 

[gjdale]

Off to a great start BE. I always enjoy following your build logs - this will be no exception, I’m sure.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Three

Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

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These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

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Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.

 

For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.

 

As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.

 

More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.

The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

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Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.

The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.

To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

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After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.

 

I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months

Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉

 

I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.

 

Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.

 

This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.

However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.

 

From the second plank tapering is indicated.

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I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.

 

On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.

Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.

Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228

It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.

Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)

Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

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9237(2)

The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)

Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.

 

 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄

 

B.E.

06/11/2022

 

 

 

[James H]

I always find these fun to build! The flying transom was probably the trickiest part of the build.

 

That was the last of the previous ship's boats I built. Currently on a 24' cutter for Indy, again using 2mm (approx) by 0.8mm strips.

[Blue Ensign]

Fun of course is a relative term; I'm missing a pathfinder build log from you James, where I can sit and stare at the process, does not Indy have a barge?

I think my Flying Transom has shifted somewhat since I fitted it, but as long as the arms don't break the panel can be re-jigged.

 

The more I look at your Indy build, the more my resolve not to succumb to it weakens - repeat I cannot do another large-scale build, I have not the room for another large-scale build......

 

B.E.

[Wintergreen]

38 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

repeat I cannot do another large-scale build, I have not the room for another large-scale build.....

So a large scale build it is, right?

Okay, I'm glad we have got that decided then. Now then, what will it be?

 

Nah, just kidding! I'm just on my third somewhat sized build and can truly appreciate the placing problem. Some of the Admirals book shelfs need to go, but that is a discussion for another day.

 

James, 171 by 29 mm is not a very large object but you are doing a terrific job on the barge! (not suitable for children under 36 months - what a peculiar statement 🤭)

 

Keep it up!

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for looking in Håkan, I suspect the age comment has something to do with liability to guard against claims that my little rug rat has just eaten your barge - you never said it wasn't edible. 😉

 

Even so, 36 months is a pretty low age bar, but then I wouldn't be surprised to learn that Chris was knocking stuff like this out aged four.

 

A more appropriate warning would be; getting involved with this kit may seriously damage your mental stability at any age.

 

I jest of course. 😬

 

B.E.

[Wintergreen]

I just realized I got the signatures wrong, apologies for that. 

Mixed up the commenter with the builder. My bad.

 

Well done B.E.!

[Blue Ensign]

Post Four

Planking and more planking.

It is a slow business planking at this scale.

Each strake has to be tapered, bevelled, wetted, edge bent, wet fitted, clamped in place, and blasted with the hairdryer, and left until formed.

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These sectioning clips are ideal for the purpose, applying the right degree of pressure on this fairly delicate hull.

After what feels like half a lifetime the planking nears completion.

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9309(2)

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A week’s planking leaves two strakes left to finish.

These will be the garboard plank and a spiled plank that will sit on the bottom of the hull out of sight.

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I have not found planking an easy job on this project and it looks pretty rough at this stage, a lot of fettlin’ to do to get an acceptable finish.

 

Hopefully it will look a lot better in the next post.

 

B.E.

12/11//2020

 

 

[Wintergreen]

But it looks good, even if it took half a lifetime 😉 

I can really appreciate the trials and tribulations with planking small hulls... the one I did (Kågen in my signature) was at a larger scale and didn't have that many strakes and they were also wider.

And then you happen to browse past one of Gregs delicate builds and you feel totally inferior and insignificant.

 

I think your boat will look really good after some cleaning up and finishing B.E. I can't see anything but nice lines in the photos.

And these close up photos tend to highlight what can't be seen at an ordinary watching distance. 

 

Keep it up!

[Blue Ensign]

Post Five

I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.

A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

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I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.

A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.

 

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I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

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With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

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During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

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There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.

The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)

 

I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

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An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)

A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)

I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.

 

The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.

 

Onwards,

 

B.E.

15/11/2022

 

 

[Beef Wellington]

Just found you again BE, thankfully before you're finished.  The small boats are fascinating and this is definitely one that has tempted me.  I'm amazed that the flying transom only became detatched once, and have no doubt that the silk purse is not far away...definitely agree on the replacement of the transom panel.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Jason,

Post Six.

In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.

Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.

The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.

Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

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My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.

The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.

 

I am using Vallejo paints throughout.

A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

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Second coat of Ochre Brown.

Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

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To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.

Getting there, I think.

 

The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.

I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

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I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

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This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375

The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.

The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.

 

B.E.

16/11/2022

 

[Wintergreen]

Coming along nicely B.E.

Ivory is definitely a good choice for "white". Using a too bright colour and it just sticks out if you know what I mean.

 

Keep it up!

[allanyed]

BE

She looks like a really nice boat!!   Is she single banked or double banked, hard to tell from the photos on the box. It seems to have twelve thwarts but 6 tholes per side so I assume single banked.  By the same token from the photo it looks like there are six pairs of tholes lined up for the same thwart so every other thwart is not being used.   At 1:64 scale and 29mm breadth that is only about 6 feet so it leads me to believe single banked like the following RMG model and plans.

 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2022 by allanyed

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, Allan,

The kit is set up for double banking on alternative thwarts which seems unusual.

I will be adopting the single banked arrangement as shown on the contemporary model (1750) above.

 

ps: It is interesting that the model NMM SLR0489 is described as having twelve crew rowing double-banked.

 

To my eye they are rowing single banked, unless I have misunderstood the terms all these years. 🤔

The other anomaly is the barge is shown flying the Royal Standard which struck me as a little odd.

 

Still the model is very nice, and one I am using as a reference.

 

B.E.

[allanyed]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

To my eye they are rowing single banked, unless I have misunderstood the terms all these years. 

I agree totally.  If you have misunderstood it based on the RMG description, you are certainly not alone!!😁😁   RMG is run by people so as with all of us, mistakes happen, including the written descriptions.  This would not be the first I have seen.  This may be the case here as there is one man per thwart rowing so would be considered single banked by any definition I have ever seen.  I just did another quick definition search and every one that I read states a variation of the following

A boat that is "double banked" has two crew members sitting on each thwart, each pulling an oar on their side of the boat. In a "single banked" boat, there is one person on each thwart pulling one oar.  There is no mention anywhere of empty thwarts between rowers.   With a breadth of about 6 feet, there is not enough room for two rowers on one thwart.  There has been a lot of discussion and sketches  here at MSW lately regarding the minimum breadth for a double banked boat and the consensus is that it would be at least 6 feet 9 inches and more likely wider.  

 

Allan

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seven

The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

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I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

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The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

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There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.

There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)

I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)

It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)

The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.

(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

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This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

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This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.

(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)

 

The problem is how to model the fore platform.

To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.

 

My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.

If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.

 

I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.

 

B.E.

17/11/2022

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Eight

 I took the obvious and simple approach.

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The bulkhead was faced up with a piece of 0.6mm Pearwood sheet.

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A new platform was cut out of the same stuff.

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The plank lines were lightly scribed into the surface.

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Wash boards will be fitted around the edge.

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I still can’t help feeling that the fore platform should sit below the gunwale level.

Every contemporary model I have seen shows this, as indeed does the Vanguard Pinnace kit in the same series.

 

I did wonder if I had somehow made a mistake in the build, but the kit photo’s show pretty much the same result.

 

I can’t contemplate chopping out the bow bulkheads to lower the platform, I fear it would put too much strain on the delicate construction, so we are where we are.

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The final option is to add wash boards which go some-way to redress the balance and give a more authentic look, but it is a compromise.

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I happened to have some spare wash boards from the Yawl kit.

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The detail devil in me can’t help noticing one other anomaly.

The first thole pins are shown adjacent to the fore platform, at the same level.

It was not uncommon for the first rower to sit on the platform but with the kit configuration the rower would be above the tholes which makes no sense.

 

This is an attractive model, and perhaps many will care little about the details I have highlighted. Some may say at 1:64 scale it is sufficient for the purpose.

I would, however, urge Chris to re-visit this kit, re-design the first two bulkheads to lower the platform to the same level as the thwarts (as per the Pinnace kit) and reconfigure the oarlocks to single banked rowing on each thwart.

 

‘nuff said, on with the build.

 

B.E.

18/11/2022

 

 

 

 

 

[yvesvidal]

Good choice. It looks much better this way.

 

Yves

[James G]

I like the direction you went. Good call in my humble opinion.

[realworkingsailor]

Hi BE, I don’t comment much, but you’re doing some amazing work with this little model! Nice solution to the deck problem, but I couldn’t help but notice one tiny detail. It looks like you’ve got the wood grain running fore and aft, while the planks are scribed athwart ships. Not sure if this was intentional for other reasons not apparent to me, or isn’t really that noticeable from normal viewing distance.

 

Andy

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, Yves, Jim, and Andy.

@ Andy, - good spot, but I was aware, it was easier to go with the grain for cutting out, and the deck is to be painted.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Nine

At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.

The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.

To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

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The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

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A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

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The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

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I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

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With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.

The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.

 

B.E.

19/11/2022

 

[shipman]

Don't know the proper period name for the lower rail, but I think it became known as the 'rubbing strake' (a fender) for obvious reasons.

 

Another of your fine projects, Maurice; thanks once more for sharing.

[Wintergreen]

It is interesting how we tend to discover things from our photos that we don't pick at the building board.

You're doing a fine job B.E!

Good decision to go for the slimmer strake.

 

Keep it up!

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ten

Internal fittings are now removed for test fitting.

The thwarts are an integrated unit combining the central Longitudinal plank. This is typical of barges of this period.

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The stern benches are also a single unit that look to require only minimal adjustment to fit.

Before they are fitted the seat stanchions that run down the centre of the footwaling are required to be fitted.

 

Section 38 of the blurb refers to the fitting but does not mention that the stanchions are of brass etch.

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They are numbered sequentially on the blurb and a careful check of the etch shows that the ten stanchions are position specific, fore, and aft to accommodate the sheer.

They are not however, numbered as per Section 38 of the blurb.

 

 

The way the kit is set up the stanchions dictate the height of the thwarts, and the hull ribs will need reducing in height where they impact on the thwart ends.

I decided to use the etch supports partly because I felt they gave the best chance of getting the thwart height correct.

 

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The biro gives the relative size of the barge.

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I was still keen to check that the thwart height was correct.

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Unlike the usual practice of risers along the internal hull to support the thwarts, this kit relies on the central columns and the ribs cut to suit for support.

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With the scale figures in place, I am pleased to see that the height is good. It is also clear why barges of this era were rowed single banked.

My use of ‘test’ thwarts has given me the line for the risers, and I don’t really understand why they haven’t been employed on this kit.

48Bb(2)

Once the thwarts and benches are in place small wooden block panels are fitted between the thwarts along hull.

 

This is a simplification of the proper arrangement, perhaps understandable given the scale, but it does look a tad unconvincing to my eye.

The inner hull should be lined over the ribs and decorative mouldings applied.

 

I have an idea of how to do this from my Model Shipways Pinnace build, but that was at 1:24 scale.

 

Before I admit abject defeat, I will have a play around and see what can be done.

 

B.E.

20/11/2022