HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023

[dunnock]

Glad to hear your mum is OK and hope she fully recovers soon.

 

Planking is looking very good.

David

[Kevin]

34 minutes ago, dunnock said:

Glad to hear your mum is OK and hope she fully recovers soon.

 

Planking is looking very good.

David

ty David

[Kevin]

good morning everyone

 

thank you for comments and likes especially for my mum, she is coping in Hospital, but quite weak from the effects of Covid, the shock of what has happened.  Was meant to be transferred to the BRI in Bristol today to have a stint inserted, but will be delayed as she tested positive again on Sunday, but needs two concentrative  negative results for this procedure

 

as for the build, im quite happy with the results on the port side a couple of sealers to still be put in. As  its my first ever hull to be left unpainted, i have made some mistakes, the obvious one is that i started tapering far to early and did far to much,  the result is that i had some silly planks to insert under the hull, we all live and learn, it would be a shame to paint it now, i just hope i can make it look far more presentable to allow her to be in just varnish

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Kevin

Great work on your boxwood planking. I am about to start mine today and I have a couple of questions.

 

Did you use ca or wood glue for the second planking?

I noted in the build manual that Jim used Titebond wood glue for all second planking on the prototype. I am not how to get the second layer of planks to stay in contact with the hull as the glue starts to cure and grip without using pins. My current thinking, once I am happy the plank is ready to be added, is to apply some ca to the hull and to spray the planks with an activator before fitting.

 

Did you use any lateral plank bends when adding the planks around the bow area?

I noted you thought you started to taper to early. My initial thought will be to plank downward until I need to start to taper and then to divide the hull into bands for the the rest of the planking. I did find adding Chuck's lateral bending method to the planks on my first planking paid dividends around the bow area.

 

Keep up the good work and informative build log.

 

Thanks

Glenn (UK)

[James H]

I was lucky with the prototype in that the hull was to be painted.

 For me, using pins was acceptable 🤪

[Kevin]

2 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

Hello Kevin

Great work on your boxwood planking. I am about to start mine today and I have a couple of questions.

 

Did you use ca or wood glue for the second planking?

I noted in the build manual that Jim used Titebond wood glue for all second planking on the prototype. I am not how to get the second layer of planks to stay in contact with the hull as the glue starts to cure and grip without using pins. My current thinking, once I am happy the plank is ready to be added, is to apply some ca to the hull and to spray the planks with an activator before fitting.

 

Did you use any lateral plank bends when adding the planks around the bow area?

I noted you thought you started to taper to early. My initial thought will be to plank downward until I need to start to taper and then to divide the hull into bands for the the rest of the planking. I did find adding Chuck's lateral bending method to the planks on my first planking paid dividends around the bow area.

 

Keep up the good work and informative build log.

 

Thanks

Glenn (UK)

morning Glenn 

i used CA throughout 2nd planking, only through the middle of the plank, i never deliberately did the edges, i didnt need to use activator this time as the runs were quite smooth, its nice to have had a decent 1st planking done

no i didnt do any lateral bending, i wish i had though, thats why i i had to taper so early, oh hum , 

of course i have now created another monster in deciding how to do the other side better, copy the port side for the symmetrical aspect of looking at her from the bow or try and improve

 

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks Kevin

I am just summing up the courage to start with the second planking.

 

Glenn (UK)

[paul carruthers]

I used a mini iron, the type used for covering model aircraft, I lightly wet the planks as per Chuck’s lateral bending method but I bent the planks into shape on the hull’s primary planking and held them in place with the iron,  it gave a good result.
I found chamfering the rear top of the planks essential to a tight fit.

[glbarlow]

It’s a tough question about being symmetrical or going for an improved look, one not easy to answer. On display only one side shows obviously but we as the builder know there is a difference. I’d recommend trying “bending the wrong way” method, once you learn it you’ll love the result. That’s second part of the process, the first are the tick strips, making it easier to understand where to start the taper and how much to cut from the plank for the taper and you’ll not need stealers. It takes longer, but it looks so much better. Perhaps blending the two methods so your other side is an improvement but still somewhat mirrors the first side. Also good call on the CA and how you applied it. I use CA medium for planking, edge gluing is never needed. You could even just spot glue about the distance between bulkheads and still be fine.
 

One other suggestion is to consider a butt shift pattern, doesn’t matter how long or how spaced they are, just a consistent repeating pattern on where horizontal planks meet on your run bow to stern. 
 

That said, your planking is well done, boxwood is such a nice wood. Once sanded and finish applied you’ll have a very fine looking model.  I’ll enjoy watching your progress on this excellent Vanguard model.  

[Kevin]

16 hours ago, glbarlow said:

It’s a tough question about being symmetrical or going for an improved look, one not easy to answer. On display only one side shows obviously but we as the builder know there is a difference. I’d recommend trying “bending the wrong way” method, once you learn it you’ll love the result. That’s second part of the process, the first are the tick strips, making it easier to understand where to start the taper and how much to cut from the plank for the taper and you’ll not need stealers. It takes longer, but it looks so much better. Perhaps blending the two methods so your other side is an improvement but still somewhat mirrors the first side. Also good call on the CA and how you applied it. I use CA medium for planking, edge gluing is never needed. You could even just spot glue about the distance between bulkheads and still be fine.
 

One other suggestion is to consider a butt shift pattern, doesn’t matter how long or how spaced they are, just a consistent repeating pattern on where horizontal planks meet on your run bow to stern. 
 

That said, your planking is well done, boxwood is such a nice wood. Once sanded and finish applied you’ll have a very fine looking model.  I’ll enjoy watching your progress on this excellent Vanguard model.  

thank you for the reply, although im nearly finished the port side, just lots of filling and sanding now, the filling is coming from the sawdust collected from the sanding tool

i think i will do this side different, using a combination of all the above, i ruled out the butt system as the planks are not consistent widths, and i thought against just cutting one board attaching and then on to the next, as you wont see the joints, the alternative is to try match enough boards to mix them about then attach

im open to suggestions, 

 

[Kevin]

good evening everyone

thank you for comments and likes

 

day 47 2nd planking of the Starboard side

 

not been well recently, Not Covid like my mum has in ospickle, just flu, very tired and my gwet up and go, was got up and gone

however i try to do a bit on the build daily

 

my planking is improving, maybe to late to make this a good looking hull, the tapering is beetter, a lot less of it, so i decided to attempt a 4 plank butt system to push myself a little, it does take a little longer, the biggest issue is finding planks that are the same width, to avoid any gaps

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Looks good. What plank lengths are you using for the 4 butt shift pattern?

[Blue Ensign]

Amazing the difference a butt shift pattern makes, the starboard side is going well. 👍

 

B.E.

[LEGION 12]

1 hour ago, Kevin said:

good evening everyone

thank you for comments and likes

 

day 47 2nd planking of the Starboard side

 

not been well recently, Not Covid like my mum has in ospickle, just flu, very tired and my gwet up and go, was got up and gone

however i try to do a bit on the build daily

 

my planking is improving, maybe to late to make this a good looking hull, the tapering is beetter, a lot less of it, so i decided to attempt a 4 plank butt system to push myself a little, it does take a little longer, the biggest issue is finding planks that are the same width, to avoid any gaps

 

 

The top of my garbage bin looks just like that , from all the ships I have painted . 😀

[Kevin]

7 minutes ago, LEGION 12 said:

The top of my garbage bin looks just like that , from all the ships I have painted . 😀

good evening Legion 12 the bin appears in all my builds

[Kevin]

1 hour ago, Glenn-UK said:

Looks good. What plank lengths are you using for the 4 butt shift pattern?

i used frames 4 to 14 

so on attached photo working forward F- Frame number in MM

tuck to F13 about 200

F13 to F9 220

F9 to F5 220

F5 to bow 195

 

Edited April 17, 2023 by Kevin

[Old Collingwood]

Really nice work mate,  that second planking is coming along  so nice.

 

OC.

[Kevin]

good evening everyone

 

thank you for comments and likes

 

at last i have started to recover from this flu bug, totally wiped me out for the last week, but thats enough of me

 

progress has continued on my build, slowly, but i am happy with what ive achieved, hopefully the problem area, like the tuck will look better when sanded, oh and the boi wanted a mention

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

The port side looks good to my eye now completed, I like the clean line you’ve achieved at the stem.

Any oddly shaped planks below the round of the hull won’t have any visual impact on the display, I usually end up with one on my efforts.

 

On with the show Kevin. 👍

 

B.E.

[Kevin]

good evening everyone

thank you for comments and likes

 

my mum is home again having had a mild hear attack, but going down with Covid hindered her stay in  hospickle, she has been fitted with a stent and now getting stronger by the day at home,

with the boi being ill, my mum, wife and myself, it has been a long 1/4 of the the new year

day 57 of 59

the lower hull planking is complete, its a large hull to play with, esp when you want to make it presentable and not add any paint ot tiles, there is no symmetry between the sides, but yes, im happy with her

 

lots of sanding ahead, any suggestions for a nice varnish to bring out the best in the boxwood

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

I will be be simply using wipe-on-poly, does it for me.

 

B.E.

[Beef Wellington]

For what its worth Kevin (and please feel free to delete!) I experimented a little with wipe on poly and tung oil when I was trying to decide.  I found the sample sheet from what must now be close to 7yrs ago, although this has not been in sunlight (though this photo was taken in natural light)  The wipe on poly gives a little more of a rich finish to my eye.  I seem to recall putting a second coat of both on the outside edge and this is faintly visible as well, both being a little 'richer' again.  Of course, your results may vary....

[glbarlow]

Satin Wipe on poly, at least three coats. Wipe on wipe off the first coat will largely be absorbed by the wood. Buff  each coat with clean cotton cloth, give it at least 12 hours between coats. I always sand very lightly after 2nd coat. With 400 grit, but then I do at least 4 coats. Just remember the wipe on wipe off part and don’t put any coat on to thick. 
 

 

[Kevin]

good evening everyone

 

all my plans to display her naked have gone out of the window

 

i over sanded the bow on the Port side to much and went through to the 1st planking, after i stopped sobbing as it is Boxwood and not pear, my options are quite skimpily -  limited

1 never show the port side again - silly idea

2 paint and copper port side and leave the Starboard side in wood - i dont think i could pull that off

3 complete the hull as shown in the instructions- preferred way

 

i am absolutely gutted, but it was a nice sunny day, ive felt like pants for the last couple of weeks and was just nice to sit in the garden with some sandpaper

oh hum

 

damage done

 

 

trying to hide the damage

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Such a shame for you. I did wonder about having one side bare and one side copper on my model just for the contrast.

[Old Collingwood]

Mate  could you not  re plank over it  up to the wale on both sides,  I know  it would be  a  pain.

 

OC.

[Kevin]

23 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Mate  could you not  re plank over it  up to the wale on both sides,  I know  it would be  a  pain.

 

OC.

i had thought about it but dismissed the idea, had it been the kit standard pear i would have painted anyway, its not all bad news though, i know my planking skills have gone up, 

[Blue Ensign]

If it’s individual planks that have been sanded through, could the section not be removed, and replaced?

 

I have done this using a scalpel blade and fine chisels. Any residual ca can be removed using acetone.

 

Just a thought.

 

B.E.

 

 

[mtaylor]

Terrible news but on the bright side.. it's wood and can be fixed.   B.E. I think is on the right course.  The other is simply "wall side/view side" or paint.

[Kevin]

6 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

If it’s individual planks that have been sanded through, could the section not be removed, and replaced?

 

I have done this using a scalpel blade and fine chisels. Any residual ca can be removed using acetone.

 

Just a thought.

 

B.E.

 

 

as this was my first "lets plank it better and not paint kit" i made a few mistakes, in that the tapering started far to early, and there was to much of it, and the boards are all not wide enough at the rabbet , although it is area about 30mm long it affects over 20 planks, so the replacing will not look right, there is also such a wide range of plank colours to think about aswell

of course there was no way i could have hidden this, i will just have to put it down to stupidity