HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-eight

 

The Drops re-visited

I couldn’t resist playing with the Drop blanks, and even with a touch of rounding look better to my eye than the resin equivalent.

 

The originals had to come off the model despite the time and effort put in, but one should always be prepared to take a step back and indulge in a spot of light de-construction if you're not satisfied.

2501

2504

I think it’s something to do with the forward curve of the ‘ball’ and the more substantial appearance that at least to me suits the proportions of the Quarter Gallery better.

2506

2510

It will all look a lot better once the galleries are completed and the mouldings added.

2511

Hopefully, this is the end of the ‘Drop’ saga, I will leave the finishing until I return to complete the galleries.

 

Movin’ on

 

B.E.

24/10/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ninety-nine

 

Quarterdeck planking

Back to deck planking, and an activity I quite enjoy. I am using mainly 4x1mm Boxwood, and some broader strips where the layout dictates.

2514

As with the Upper deck the centre line fittings of hatch/ladderways and Capstan step are fitted before planking.

2518

The fittings were designed to sit atop the planking so have been raised by the depth of the planking to compensate.

 

In addition to the hatchways there are grating sets that represent the covers for the Top-rope and pump scuttles and sit flush to the deck.

I have some reservations about the Top rope scuttles being represented by gratings, they are generally shown as closed boards, without framing, and with lifting rings attached.

This is how I will display them.

 

The deck planking layout requires some careful thought.

2519

2520

A tricky part is planking around the scuttles. To this end blank scuttle templates are temporarily fixed in place to run the planking to, and the specific parts used to check.

2524

2525

2526

The centre line section completed, I will now move onto the outer strakes and Margin planks.

 

B.E.

26/10/2023

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Amazing work, you are a truly inspiration to us less worthy modelers.

[Blue Ensign]

Blimey Glenn, you make me blush, I don’t consider myself more worthy, whatever that means.

Any worth in pursuing our interest is surely the satisfaction we derive, and the desire to get better, whatever our level of experience.

If you’re enjoying it it’s worth it.

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred

 

QD planking cont’d

I next fit the Margin planks using 6mm x 1mm Box. This covers the rough edges where the bulkhead tops still show.

Fortunately, the curve is soft enough to allow an edge bend even with timber this broad.

For the remaining planks I followed the etched design on the sub-deck as far as possible. This involves a degree of taper as the strakes run aft.

Three days works sees the completion, and I’m  fairly content with the result.

2575

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2585

Still work to do, deck scraping and tidying up before the inner bulwarks are fitted.

 

At this stage clearing dust and debris from the Upper deck is a constant issue.

At least with this amount of open space, I can get to remove it.

 

B.E.

28/10/2023

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and one

 

Poop deck

As with the other decks I have left very little planking to be done.

My aim is to maximise the view of all that wonderful detail that Chris has provided in the cabins below.

2591

2592

With the sub-deck modified and secured, planking can begin. I start with the margins using 5mm strip.

2597

2599

The remaining planking is straightforward, the worst part fitting some (26) 15mm tapered lengths along the taffarel.

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2605

I have taken the pre-caution of fitting an acetate cover for the poop to keep the worst of the dust out whilst the build continues.

2601

Whilst I’m on a roll I think I will carry on and plank the Foc’sle and Gangways.

 

B.E.

31/10/2023

 

[Ronald-V]

That looks amazing! I really do like the change in colors of those beams...the white and the red on the sides

[hollowneck]

She's a thing of beauty, B.E.

"Roll On!"

[allanyed]

Hitting the like button is not enough.  Outstanding workmanship B.E!!!!

Allan

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Mugjie, Ron, and Allan, much appreciated, and thanks  for all those 'Likes'

 

Post One Hundred and Two

 

Planking the Foc’sle

This is the most difficult deck to plank by reason of the sharp curves to the bow.

2607

The Margin plank will need to be 7mm in width to cover the rough edges and bulkhead tops, and the severity of the curve  rules out using strip.

2609

2610

It is simpler to cut out the margins from 1mm Box sheet on the scroll saw, and then tweak to shape.

2612

The main advantage of cutting out the margins is that there is no stress in conformation against the bulwark.

 

In thinking about the Foc’sle, questions come to mind.

 

Should there be a Bowsprit step over the deck area where it passes through?

 

Those two posts either side of the Bowsprit look awkward, what are they for? They don’t seem to align with the knighthead tops that are fitted separately on the capping rails.

 

They may of course just be a simplification of the kit design and construction for practical purposes rather than any actual feature, and there’s no indication to remove them as with the other bulkhead tops.

 

The Adm Plan of the Foc’sle indicates a ‘hook at the height of the foremost Port cills. The kit has a couple of pin racks in this area.

2614

Foc'sle of the Razeed Indefatigable

 

This would have been the Upper gun deck before she was razeed and to fit a hook seems reasonable in this area, but those posts preclude such a fitting and would require at least reducing in height, becoming in effect supports for the hook.

 

I’m not really convinced by the present arrangement, and I’m minded to fit a hook.

There is no indication of an open space between the Foc’sle bulwarks above the bowsprit  but I need to ponder on it before I do anything too drastic.

 

In the meantime I can progress some of the deck planking

 

B.E.

01/11/2023

 

 

[allanyed]

While the kit itself is far better than most, it is super to see you researching the details as we know nothing was 100% set in stone on every ship no matter the design plans, Establishments, contracts and so forth. 

 

Does the deck plan of the forecastle show the fore and aft pieces as you have them, that is, rather than made of separate carlings let down into the edges of the beams?  I could not tell from drawing ZAZ2375 at RMG that you are using so I was curious.  It makes sense as it would be easier than the way the carlings are set on the lower decks, but is weakening the deck beams then an issue?  

Again, magnificent build, thanks for sharing!

Allan

Edited November 1, 2023 by allanyed

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, Allan

I’m not sure, my main concern is to improve authenticity where I can, given the kit limitations. The fore end of the kit is solid to provide a strong block to build the hull, which is perfectly ok as Chris designed the model to be fully planked which would hide all this raw stuff.

 

2106

As you can see on the photo the carlings end in mid air, and the Bowsprit step was originally fixed further forward, I moved it back to its proper position between the Bitt posts.

The way I’ve designed my planking layout is to hide this stuff, a sort of smoke and mirrors job, but I can’t hide those posts fully open to view.

Before I started to look in depth at this issue those two bulkhead extensions either side of the bowsprit looked odd to my eye, and I couldn’t find anything similar on contemporary models of large frigates of the time.

The problem is that these Razees are anomalies, and you won’t find a hook on the foc’sle of specifically built frigates- as far as I know.

An interesting little exercise ahead.

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and two

 

Foc’sle stuff cont’d.

 A day spent fitting small sections of planking to suit the cut-away plan. Each one requires tapering to suit. Not difficult but time consuming.

2627

The tricky part is the eight or so strakes that will require  joggling into the margin planks

 

As an update from my previous post I have found a contemporary model of a large Frigate (Diana) 1794 which indeed does show a hook at the Foc’sle.

 

As the razeed Indy plan also details this feature albeit at a slightly higher level, I grasped the nettle and removed those two uprights either side of the bowsprit.

Necessary  to fit a hook.

 

The bulwark spirketting was clamped into place and given the heat treatment.

I didn’t find it necessary to wet the wood.

2615

One potential issue is that the spirketting sits some 3mm above the outer bulwarks towards the fore end, including the top hole for the ring bolts.

I can’t imagine how this has come about, all the other reference points seem to be correct.

I resolved the issue by carefully shaving the bottom edge of the spirketting to bring things into line.

2623

With the spirketting glued into place, small additional pieces were required to be added, cut from matching fret.

2617

There is an untidy area where the topside planking meets the stem at the bow that could use a little fettlin’.

It is mostly hidden once the Bowsprit is in place, but that’s no reason not to sort it.

 

2618

A simple job to tidy up the plank ends and slot in a filler piece.

2621

A bridging piece is now fitted over the top of the Bowsprit opening. The capping rails will eventually cover this.

Still a lot of cleaning up to do but getting there.

I can now work the hook and finish off around the bowsprit area.

2625

 

This is the second hook I am working on, tricky little beggar to get a good fit, and I may well end up with a third.

 

B.E.

02/11/2023

 

 

 

 

 

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

This is the second hook I am working on, tricky little beggar to get a good fit, and I may well end up with a third.

Good little fettlin’, B.E.

 

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

One potential issue is that the spirketting sits some 3mm above the outer bulwarks towards the fore end, including the top hole for the ring bolts.

I can’t imagine how this has come about, all the other reference points seem to be correct.

I resolved the issue by carefully shaving the bottom edge of the spirketting to bring things into line.

The price us kit hacker/bashers pay...it's part of the pleasure, is it not?🤔

[Blue Ensign]

I wasn't quite expecting to find the spirketting so high above the  topsides, no doubt due to some unrecognised error on my part way back in the build.🙄

 

You are correct tho' Ron, I do enjoy 'enhancing' kits where  I can,  doubles the pleasure  of a build for me.😁

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and three

Foc’sle completion.

2627

The planking begins at the centre working outwards, roughly following the layout on Plan sheet C1.

2630

There are eight strakes of Joggled planks, to do each side, Fairly straightforward, it’s getting a clean cut that’s the tricky bit.

2629

Use of a scalpel and micro chisels simplify the procedure.

 

Bowsprit partners

These were fitted to ships, but one is not shown on the Indy plan. However, it struck me that the area of the deck around the Bowsprit looked unfinished.

2632

Based on my own preference I added one. It also had the advantage of covering the scars of the now removed posts.

 

Hook

2633

Version four at last fitted. The dimensions were taken from the Adm Plan and scaled to 1:64.

2640

2635

2637

2644

2642

Just the gangways left to do, then a clean-up of the planking and a coat of flat varnish.

 

B.E.

04/11/2023

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Four

 

Gangways

The sub-deck pieces slot neatly atop the skid beams held in position by the bulwark lugs.

2646

Separating the deck sections made it necessary for me to add a support beam at the forward end to support the joint against the Foc’sle breast beam.

 

It struck me that on the plans there are no butt joints to the planking. The length of the Gangway is some 41’ which would suggest that some butt ends would be required.

 

The planks would be fixed to the beams which are unevenly spaced across the waist with spaces of: 2@50mm 2@30mm, and 2@ 35mm. which makes it a little more difficult to work out a repeat pattern, but there are only six strakes.

With an open sided gangway it is obvious if a butt join has nothing to support it beneath.

2649

I worked a system using scale planks of around 28’ maximum to utilise the available fixing points.

I started with the innermost strake and worked towards outboard with a final spiled plank at the bulwark.

 

This completes the Indy planking on my version.

2652

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2650

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I have to say that the Castello Boxwood supplied by Vahur at Hobbymill EU was a pleasure to use, excellent quality.

Movin’ on.

 

B.E.

06/11/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and five.

 

Bulwark Spirketting

This is now added to the Quarterdeck and Poop decks, pre-painted before gluing into place.

2661

Painting on the model is made more difficult due to the tumblehome of the Topsides along the Qtr deck.

2668

2669

Quite a change to the look of the model once this is done, but with gunport fettlin’ and other work, some restoration will be inevitable as the build progresses.

2673

The decorative facia panels at the break of the decks are also added at this time.

These remain unpainted and are treated with w-o-p.

 

Toprope scuttles

Back in Post 99 I said that I have some reservations about the Top rope scuttles being represented by gratings.

0050

They are generally shown as closed boards, without framing, and with lifting rings attached, as on Victory (Above)

2664

2667

This seemed a good point to knock up a couple of closed scuttles to see how they look.

2670

Altho’ more historically correct, I’m not sure I prefer them to the supplied gratings from a purely aesthetical viewpoint.

2675

 

B.E.

08/11/2023

 

 

[Mirabell61]

Super work B.E.

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Six

 

I have now reached a part of the build where there is a lot of bits and pieces.

Bulwarks to sand level, gunports to clean up, and mouldings and cappings to fit.

There is also a lot more dust.

Getting the rails to run correctly and look acceptable to the eye has proven the most difficult part of the build for me thus far.

It took several constructions/de-constructions, to arrive at a sequence I found acceptable, without the urge to instantly rip it all off again.

 

This is what I found by trial and error worked best for me.

 

The most critical rail is that running between the gun-deck ports following the sheer of the hull.

I opted not to fix this first, as indicated, but I marked the line of the rail using Tape.

2714

Before I commit to glue I want to see how it will eventually relate to the rails above it.

 

Before adding the capping rail along the waist (section515) I think it is better to add the continuation of the 3mm strip to the forward end of the waist, following the sheer.

2688

I also added these before adding the topside decoration along the Qtr deck and Foc’sle.

 

Below this the 4mm strip can be added.( I am using Boxwood strip) I stop the strake short of the forward end of the waist. This strip is referred to as the ‘second wale’ left over from Indy’s time as a Sixty-four.

The forward sections of the 3mm and 4mm strips are then added to terminate at the bow stem.

2689

I am keeping an eye on the line of the main gundeck rail still marked by tape.

2700

Before fixing I use the upper rail with the scroll work to check how that will eventually relate to the intended fixing line.

2702

The lower 4mm (second wale) is then added.

2710

Once fitted the decorative rail is fitted above it, ensuring an even curve, and that the scroll work at the aft end meets the rail below it.

2712

 2mm strips are then added to the 3mm rail, this completes the  Wale for the Fore channels.

2715

The decorative scroll work at the break of the Qtr deck is now fitted ensuring the scroll meets the rail below it.

The Topsides are instantly improved by the addition of the mouldings.

2695

To complete the rails a 2mm strip which defines the Channel areas is applied atop the 3mm rail.

2711

The rails line up at the bow but need a fair bit of cleaning up at this point.

2716

This is not the end of the story, the gunport rails and waist capping rails are now to be added, and the decorative rails and

scroll work need some fettlin’ to address the rather ‘blocky’ look of them.

 

I am relieved that this part of the project has been completed  without ending up with any mismatches or ugly rail angles at the bow. I found it quite a testy part of the build.

Onwards….

 

B.E.

11/11/2023

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and seven

 

Gunport mouldings

The kit provides 3mm and 1mm Pearwood strip to make up the profile.

A simple affair with the 1mm strip providing the relief profile.

 

I had considered scribing my own profile, but long lengths are involved, which could prove tricky, and I thought that the kit ‘simple’ arrangement would probably look ok with the edges softened to remove the ‘blocky’ look.

 

The prime objective is to get a smooth even curve from gallery to stem following the sheer.

On my build I have used Boxwood strip for the makings, to match the Boxwood planking.

2718

A simple jig is used to assemble the two parts before sanding and shaping.

2722

The mouldings are in two sections each side, running from stern to port eight, at which point the sheer has levelled out, and then onto the bow.

 

Between the upper rails and the Main wale I am now able to tweak the line particularly at the bow and stern, to satisfy the eye.

As it turned out there wasn’t much of a ‘tweak’ required.

The upper line was then taped and the moulding glued below.

It is better to fit long sections to achieve a smooth curve, rather than fit short sections between the ports.

2725

I did further divide the forward strip into two sections for ease of fitting around the bow.

Ca was used to fix the moulding.

2729

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2733

2734

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2741

2748

Trimming around port openings is a time-consuming business, three days work to reach this point with more time required to clean up the surfaces.

The process also mars the surrounding areas, which I expected and will be rectified later.

 

B.E.

14/11/2023

[Theodosius]

Wow! Theses mouldings add so much to the model! I like! 🙂 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Theo, there's such a big expanse of hull, and they do add a degree of elegance, and  accentuate the  beauty of the sheer line.

They still need to be fined down a little which is what I'm working on at present.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Eight

 

Capping rails.

A little more progress but exceedingly slow.

I have now added the Capping rails for the waist, along the  gangways.

2761

The kit version which were a tad short were replaced with Boxwood versions.

2760

I lined up the inner edge with the Qtr deck and Foc’sle mouldings and shaved the outer edge back to the outer line.

2753

Poop rails were trimmed slightly at the aft end but otherwise fit without issue.

2754

The Qtr deck rails line up accurately, and are fitted as with all the cappings, with the inner edge flush to the bulwark.

 

The tricky ones are the Foc’sle cappings, but even so are not far off the Bow  Bulwark shape.

2750

As part of my modifications the rail continues to enclose the bow.

2749

2756

The Bowsprit slips below the rail and Bow Hook to tenon into the step on the deck below.

2751

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2758

The fettlin’ continues…..

 

B.E.

16/11/2023

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One  hundred and nine

 

And more fettlin’

This seemed an opportune time to assemble the Catheads and open up the apertures.

Only the basic assembly at this stage, finishing will be done later.

2766

2769

The completed Catheads are 6mm square so a fair bit of filing is required to open up the bulwark location.

Flat and triangular needle files were used for the purpose.

The  triple  sheaves  are patterned  on the  catheads and require drilling thro’ if they are to be rigged.

2788

The line of the sheave is offset to counter the stive of the Cathead, so that the tackle hangs vertically.

A slight round to the faux sheaves improves the look.

 

Back to the stern

The decorative mouldings are now fitted around the stern and Qtr galleries.

The trick here is to ensure that the upper counter mouldings match up with those of the Qtr galleries and have a neat finish at the corners.

Failure to achieve this will certainly catch the eye and detract from the overall look of the model.

In working this area position of the model is everything to get the right viewing angle to secure the mouldings.

2772

For me raising the hull at the stern gives me the best approach.

2780

I start with the upper counter rail, followed by the corresponding Qtr gallery rail.

2774

2778

I thought about applying a mitre joint to the corners but opted for a straight butt joint which worked out ok once carefully sanded.

Atop the rails  a strip is added to create  a simple  profile.

2791

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2802

Fairly satisfied with the run of the rails, but for the present I’m moving onto the Headworks.

 

B.E.

19/11/2023

 

[allanyed]

VERY NEAT AND CLEAN WORK!!!  The more I see your pics the more I am impressed with Vanguard AND your workmanship.

Allan

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Allan, I'm fighting the Head works at the moment  but once that's done  I can give the whole hull  a good tidy up before sorting the colour scheme.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Ten

 

Headworks (Part One)

Along with the stern this is a critical area of a build, that can make or mar a model.

Chris has designed some of the best head work set-ups but great care is needed in assembly.

Assembly is covered over several separate sections in the blurb but I prefer to have all the parts to hand so I can check and dry fit before I commit to glue.

 

The business starts with attaching the Head timbers to the Gammoning knee which will ultimately fit atop the knee proper.

2808

The Head timbers are made of mdf and look as if they will snap in half should you give them so much as a harsh look; perhaps that is why two sets are provided in the kit.

An excellent idea; on my build the spaniel assistant had one part before it hit the ground, and another went floppy so I had to discard it.

 

To allow the Gammoning knee to sit down on the knee proper I found careful sanding and filing was necessary to the knee and base of the head timbers.

 

2807

I tested each of the four head timbers individually, and then as a set to confirm the fit is good.

The largest of the Head timbers (aft) gave me the most trouble as it was initially too close to the hull and decorative mouldings that round the bow. I had to indulge in a little light tweaking to resolve the issue.

 

The Hair bracket comes next, a delicate shaped rail that runs from the Upper cheek to the head.

2813

Below this is the Trail board that contains the Gammoning slot.

2812

To assist location, it is useful to insert a piece of board thro’ the slot when fitting the hair bracket.

 

Finally in this section the Upper and lower cheeks are applied to the bow.

2814

On my build they took a bit of shaping on the aft side to conform to the hull.

2818

Fitting these is a tedious business, I fit the lower pair before the upper.

2819

Once glue is applied there is a frantic check before the glue dries to ensure that they look right from every angle.

There’s always that nagging doubt. 🤔

2822

2823

At this point I have modified the building board to allow better access to the Bow area.

2829

I will review my efforts in the cold light of tomorrow morning to see if my eye is still satisfied.

 

 As with Sphinx I will not be fitting the wash cants.

Aesthetically these baulks of timber spoil the line of the cheeks and wale and they don’t seem to feature on Navy Board style models which is good enough for me.

They are in any case quite tricky things to shape without them looking lumpy, and I’m happy to have a ‘get out of Jail free’ card to play.

 

B.E.

22/11/2023

 

 

[Mirabell61]

excellent work B.E.

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Eleven

 

Painting the Topsides

The past couple of days amongst other stuff I have been  applying some paint to the hull. I had been keen to get an idea of how my intended scheme was going to look.

I am not following the designated scheme with the colour bands following the deck line rather than the sheer, and as a Navy board style depiction, I don’t need to.

 

I have scraped the Boxwood section back to bare wood, the previously coloured w-o-p over English light Oak wood dye had suffered some deterioration over the past few months due to handling during construction.

 

A coat of Vallejo Black/grey has been applied to the topsides.

 

This is the result.

2839

 

2837

2838

 

2841

Getting there, but rub-downs and re-coats will be needed to get a finish I’m happy with.

The Boxwood will be re-coated using the w-o-p/wood dye combo.

 

B.E.

25/11/2023