Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[EdT]

Hi Pat,

 

I have seen diagrams showing a strut under the yard to a band around the masthead to provide additional support.  This may have been used in some cases but there is no sign of this on the Young America photos.  A chain preventer would have to be attached to the topmast above the cap - not a likely arrangement, or at least not one I have seen, but I guess possible.  The strut would require a different arrangement for the upper topsail sheet blocks, but that is not a major problem.  Worth some checking of photos.  A check on the strength of the truss/crane/cap band assembly might be useful.  I would need a major refresher to do this calculation and have no idea of what the yard loading would be.

 

I will check my inbox.   It has filled up a couple times.

 

Ed

 

Later:  the inbox was full, Pat - emptied it.

Edited January 25, 2018 by EdT

[Kevin]

Just caught up again, wonderful work

[EdT]

Pat, I did some further checking on the support for the lower topsail yard.  If you have Underhill, you may wish to check p. 103: He describes slings and struts on large steel barques then  "...however, in the greater majority of ships the lower topsail crane was strong enough to support the yard without assistance."  You will see that there is more on this in chapter 2 on steel yards.

 

Fincham (1843) predates the double topsail.  Nothing in Kipping (1864) or Luce (1868).

 

There is no end to checking this stuff.

 

Ed  

[Roger Pellett]

Beautiful work!  If I understand this correctly, the yard truss allows the yard to swing in the horizontal plane and to rotate about its vertical axis.  Without lifts, what prevents the yard from uncontrolled rotation,  particularly when both topsails are furled?

 

Roger

[BANYAN]

Hi Ed, thanks for the feedback, especially that statement by Underhill as I had missed that.  I will need to pay more attention in future.  I am still contemplating making allowance for, but not fitting, slings as Victoria was intended as a warship also and slings may have been a necessary 'battle' precaution.  Many thanks.

 

I have Luce, and Fincham also and concur your comments - they are very useful references also.  I find "Seamanship" by Commander G.S. Nares (1868) very useful also.  You are right though - it is a never ending activity researching this stuff and very detrimental to the building time.   i am sure that your next volume will become a very useful reference  as well as a building guide (techniques) for ships of this era.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Roger, the braces control the rotation of the yard about the mast.  My guess is that the yard is kept "level" under sail by the sail being sheeted down.  This would be true of all upper sails when set and the lifts slackened by raising the yard.  These lower topsails would almost always be the last sails furled.  The yard is also fitted with two downhaulers that are secured at the yardarms, pass upward to blocks at the upper topsail yardarms, then to the center and down to the deck.  Their purpose was to assist in lowering the upper yard, which might not always come down of its own weight especially when the ship was heeled.  These lines would stabilize the yard, I presume.

 

Pat, I do routinely check Nares as well - and quite a few of the usual others, of course - Steel, Lever, Rees, Lees - and then Underwood, Campbell, and Crothers.  Apart from the descriptions and compilation of details needed to build the model, I don't expect any groundbreaking research.  You are right about this taking time away from other things, so one must make choices, but unless you are following someone else's drawings, there is not much choice about doing research - as you well know from your current work.

 

One book I would highly recommend is John Harland's Seamanship in the Age of Sail, 1984.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

One of my first purchases Ed; thanks again for the feedback.

cheers

Pat

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 264 – Fore Lower Topsail Yard Detailing

 

I finally got the fore topmast ratlines installed, something I wanted done before mounting the lower topsail yard.    

 

 

The spreaders at the top of the yard continue to take a beating.  Some protection is probably in order.  At the top of the shrouds the ratline extend across the backstays.  The next picture is a closer view.

 

 

The next picture shows the fore topsail yard with footropes, quarter blocks and buntline blocks installed.

 

 

In the next two pictures the yard has been temporarily mounted using the permanent pin in the crane.

 

 

In the next picture the yard has been returned to the holding fixture for further work.

 

 

In this picture the footrope stirrups have been pulled straight for stiffening and the chain upper topsail sheets have been threaded through the cheek blocks, under-yard fairleads and the central sheet block.  Below is a closer view of the sheet block.

 

 

The fabrication of this block was described earlier, as was the linking of the two chains inside the block so the sheet tackles could be used to keep the yard down.  In the next picture these tackles have been rigged and shackled to the chains.

 

 

The upper topsail sheet chains are short and those shown will be cut back later. The upper sail was taken in by lowering the yard and not using clue lines as was typical for the other yards, so there was no need for the sheets to be hauled up when furling.  The tackles were thus used to take up slack in small adjustments.  The short tackles shown will belay in the foretop – in the next post.

 

 

Ed

[albert]

Fantastic work Ed.

[BANYAN]

Another example of your fine craftsmanship Ed; that yard looks very realistic.  Love the jig!

 

cheers

 

Pat

[MEDDO]

I love the explanations and the accompanying pictures.  It really is a pleasure to follow along.

[druxey]

Superb work - as usual!

[michael mott]

Good morning Ed, Always a feast catching up with your progress, one of these days I shall have to spend some time playing with some copper, you make it look so easy, and the results are exquisite.

 

Michael

[the learner]

Its all quite confusing but looking at the complete plans will answer a lot of questions most. that being said are the wires attached to the sheet chains only temporary?

I am sure your volume on rigging and masting will answer a lot of questions that you are unable to address here.

 

 

 

[EdT]

Guy, the wires on the sheet chains are temporary to allow me to thread them through the cheek blocks.  Chain is very difficult to handle on its own.  The chains hanging  from the yard arms will be mostly cut off.  The explanation of the short sheets in the last part should make more sense after the next post  - I hope.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Micheal, I had to comment on your comment about the metal work.  After seeing your work on the small engine - an other things - I doubt that there is much you could learn from me.  Cheers - and thanks.

 

Ed

[Srodbro]

Ed:

I posted this question in another topic and another member suggested I post the question directly to you in this build log. 

 

I recently noticed a detail in the pic above (from Greyhounds of the Sea by Cutler, of the Clipper Great Republic) showing double channels, one above the other, at each mast. I also found this arrangement on Queen of the West, in Chapelle’s History of American Sailing Ships, on a pic of a build of Thermopylae, and after digging through your Young America log (Part 158), there it was as well.

 

My question is, Why double channels?  I surmise that the lower channel facilities extending the chains to a lower point of attachment to the frames, perhaps at a more robust location, where forces from the shrouds might better be absorbed. But, that’s just a guess. 

 

I thought you or another “clipper” guy might be able to enlighten me. 

Thanks, and sorry for hijacking this topic. 

[EdT]

Steve,

I am not sure I can answer your question definitively, but I can give it a try.  Others may wish to comment.

 

Channels on men-of-war were wide to provide space for working, fighting, and storage, but most importantly to maximize the spread of the shrouds and backstays.  This wide spread added strength and safety for the masts.  Channels were located at the height of major hull structural members to withstand the inward forces of the shrouds on the channels and hull.  Channel width was not a problem in docking because these ships seldom docked.

 

Merchant ships routinely docked. Closeness to the dock was important for cargo handling.  For this reason clipper channels are narrow.  Because of this, and to avoid shrouds and backstays being obstructed by the upper rails, the upper channels  had to be raised above deck level (on ships with external channels) so that rigging would clear the rails.  This placed the upper channel on toptimbers, well above the heavy structural members at deck level.  I assume that the lower channels, usually at deck level, were added to spread the load to the lower hull members.  It could also be that these lower channels protected the chains from damage against high docks at low tide or when the ship was fully loaded.

 

Ed

 

 

[rwiederrich]

From what my study has revealed , unlike men of war, clippers were heavily spared and generally had taller masts to accommodate those spars.  Double channels simple allowed the stresses of the shrouds and backstays to disperse their loads over a greater surface.  Double channels allowed such forces to be fixed as have been mentioned earlier, over a greater area of strength on the hull...plus more points of contact for the chainplates allowed for greater retention against the pull or force applied against them.  Enormous lateral stresses were placed upon the shrouds and backstays and many captains who were bent on *DRIVING* their ships in extreme conditions, far beyond what would be expected in ordinary ships relied upon well built *STRONG* vessels to *Do the Impossible*.  these ships had to be extremely strong to endure what they were expected to do, in the hands of a driving captain.

 

Rob

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 265 – Fore Lower Topsail Yard Continued

 

In the last part the upper topsail sheet chains were threaded through the blocks under the center of the lower yard and the outer blocks.  The yard was then hung by the crane on the lower mast cap as shown in the first picture.

 

 

The yard was braced temporarily back to the main top to keep it square.  In the picture the twin triple-purchase sheet tackles have been rigged and secured at the forward rim of the top.  The upper topsail sheet chains are hanging from the ends of the yard.  The next picture shows the two tackles from the port side.

 

 

As mentioned in the last post, the upper topsail was not clewed up for furling, so there are no upper topsail clew-lines.  The sheet chains and the tackles are short – used only to fine tune the sheets under sail.  These are short enough so that the upper topsail may be sheeted to the yardarm without fouling the tackles.  The next picture is another view of these tackles.

 

 

The falls are short on these overhauled tackles and simply hitched around each.  The next picture from aft shows the yard with the two temporary braces back to the main cap. 

 

 

The next step was to rig the lower topsail clew-lines.  These are shackled to the ends of the lower topsail sheet chains.  Without sails the clew-lines are pulled up, overhauling the sheet tackles, positioning the lines for shackling to the sail when it is raised.  The length of these sheet chains is limited by the height of the triple tackles below the main yard so the sail is able to be sheeted to the yardarm without the tackle becoming "block-on-block" or "chock-a-block."  For this reason I raised the height of those tackles from their initial position.  The difference in height is shown in the next picture.

 

 

In the picture, the starboard block has been raised from its original height at the position of the port block in the photo.  Both were then set at this upper height.  This adjustment turned into a major, multi-day task, eventually requiring removal of the sheet block and the yard.  I will not elaborate, except to say that getting things right the first time is preferred.

 

The next three pictures show the clew-line/sheet chain rigging.

 

 

The problem of shackling the clew-line/sheet to the sail is interesting.  With the limitations described, it could certainly not be done from the lower topsail yard and the gear was probably not reachable by men on the top where other lines would be bent as the rolled sail was raised.  Most likely this was done from the lower yard during raising.  Whatever the method, it would have been easier than with a single topsail, where the lowest position of the yard would be even higher – above the cap.

 

The next two pictures show the lead block arrangement for the clew-lines.

 

 

 

 

The standing end of each line is seized to a thimble on a block hooked to an eyebolt under the yard.  It then reeves through the block at the clew end, back through the block at the yard then through a single block at the quarters.  From there it passes through a fairlead hole in the top down inside the #2 shroud and through its fairlead, to belay on the main rail. The next picture shows a view of this from aft.

 

 

This picture also shows the stopping of the upper topsail sheet chain to the jackstay.  Again, the length of the chain is limited by the length of the tackle.

 

There are still a lot of loose lines cluttering these photos at the top and especially at the deck.  I have delayed permanently securing these at the pins (fortunately) but it will soon be time to do this.

 

Next, the four buntlines will complete the current work on this yard.  All the braces will be left until much later for access reasons.

 

Ed

[druxey]

Beginning to look a-maze-ing, Frank!

[albert]

Hi Ed, your model ship is very masterpiece.

[Wintergreen]

The amount of detail in your build Ed, is just breathtaking. Along with the mass of information in your posts. Your work is on a separate level from many of us.

 

But I must say that the Captain need to give his first mate a sharp word. Those launches can't just lay around on deck like that. They need to be strapped down or at least put to either side of the deck. Right now they make for an obstacle course should one need to hastily move from poop and forward.

[BANYAN]

Great detail work and explanation Ed; you would think this was an actual ship being rigged.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 266 – Fore Lower Topsail Yard Continued

 

Apart from the braces that will be installed later, the last items of rigging on the lower topsail yards were the buntlines.  There are two on each side.  In the absence of sails these are stopped at the buntline blocks on top of the yard as shown in the first picture.

 

 

Buntlines are normally passed through blocks on the underside of the tops or crosstrees at the head of their associated mast, but with the addition of the second topsail yard, the lower topsail buntlines are rigged through double blocks seized to the forward topsail shrouds as shown.  The starboard side is shown in the next picture.

 

 

From these double blocks the lines run down through fairlead holes in the top, inside the shrouds, through the fairleads on the #2 shrouds, and are belayed on the main pin rail on each side.  These lines may be seen passing vertically down from the shroud blocks through the top in the next picture.

 

 

The lower ends of these lines may be seen belayed at the side in the next picture.

 

 

You may note that in these pictures the shroud lanyards have been re-wrapped above the deadeyes.  These were unwound earlier to re-tension the shrouds and backstays as mentioned in an earlier post.  The running rigging of the two lower yards has also been tensioned, secured at the pins with some dilute glue and the excess line clipped off.  The clutter of these unsecured lines on the deck and above was becoming an unsightly nuisance, so it was time to get everything neatly secured.  The next picture shows the forward deck cleared of excess rope.

 

 

One of the next steps will be to make and add rope coils at the belaying points.  The lower yard tacks and lazy tacks are still only temporarily belayed until the sheets are rigged later.

 

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

Nice progress Ed, this little lady is looking great!

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Hakan, I took your good advice and put away the parts that were littering the deck.  They will return later to be permanently fitted when the rigging permits.

 

Thanks,

Ed

[Maury S]

Ed,

The masking tape to prevent parts dropping into the lower sections is smart, and beware, the tape can leave a very serious residue if allowed to remain on for more than a few days.  I had that issue with tape holding display case glass in place stayed on too long and the ONLY way to get the residue off was soaking with vegetable oil.

Maury

[EdT]

Thanks, Maury.  I'll have a look at it.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 267 – Halyard Gin blocks

 

In preparation for work on the upper topsail yard, I decided to make the iron gin blocks for the halyards for all three of these yards.  These are suspended aft of each topmast from a chain tye shackled to the central band on the yard.  The tye passes through the sheave just below the topmast hounds.  There is one of these iron tye blocks for each of the three upper topsail yards.  They allowed the load of these relatively heavy yards to be distributed to both sides of the ship by means of tackles that will be described later.  The heavy stationary yards below are supported by iron trusses as previously described, while those above have simpler, lighter halyard rigging.  The first picture shows the three finished gin blocks.

 

 

The blocks have inverted T frames that house iron sheaves and an eye at the top to attach the chain tye.  Two have 12" diameter sheaves, one 10".  The frames could be made from formed metal strips, but I chose to use flattened brass tube for these.  The tube was flattened in a vise as shown in the next picture.

 

 

Pieces were then sawed off and given some shaping to form parts for the basic two-piece assembly shown in the picture.  It was then a simple matter to silver-solder these using the setup shown below.

 

 

One side at a time was soldered. The frames were then further refined in size and shape as shown in the next two pictures.

 

 

 

 

The brass strip holding the frame in the above picture served as an anvil to impart some squareness to the frames and to straighten the sides.  The strip also allowed the frames to be center-punched for drilling without deforming the shape.  In the next picture the eyebolt has been soldered into a small hole in the top of the frame and the sheave pin holes are about to be marked for drilling.

 

 

A wooden spacer was inserted into each frame to avoid bending during rilling of the axle holes.  The last picture shows the completed blocks before blackeneing.

 

 

The sheaves were turned and drilled in the lathe from brass rod, then secured with peened copper pins.  The assemblies were then polished, cleaned, and blackened using Brass Black^®.  Meanwhile, work progressed on the upper yard itself – next post.

 

Ed