Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[BANYAN]

Another example of your fine craftsmanship Ed.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[k.riebensahm]

Ed, observing the log since long and building YA following your plans and books. Its a great pleasure to see the model coming up slowly. Currently I started with the main deck. All parts are prepared and assembling will start tomorrow. Your standard is very hard to meet.

[EdT]

Wow, that is impressive progress - and beautiful work.  I look forward to seeing more of your model and learning more about you as well.  Good luck with the project.

 

Ed

[k.riebensahm]

thank you Ed. Trying hard to come closer to your standard. I am always very impressed to see your work.

Klaus

[Tigersteve]

It would be nice to see another YA build log! Great work. 

Steve

[rwiederrich]

Just fantastic Ed...Mr. Webb would be proud.

 

Rob

[capnharv2]

Ed,

I remember your concern about the fragility of the iron backstay spreaders. Has the addition of the first backstays helped that concern?

 

Harvey

[EdT]

Thanks, again, everyone.

 

We'll see about the spreaders when all 3 pair of backstays are rigged, Harvey.  I do believe they will be well restrained in the up-down direction, but will the stays tend to pull them inward?  We should soon find out.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 297 – Crojack Yard 2

 

The first picture shows the crojack yard set up in the fixture used for rigging.

 

 

The footropes, topsail yard sheet chains, topping lift pendants, and reef tackle yardarm blocks have been installed.  The blocks for this yard that remain to be installed have been strapped and are shown on the fixture base ready to be lashed on.  Altogether, there are 30 blocks associated with this yard – not the most or least for a yard but perhaps an average for the 18 yards.  The next picture shows a closer view of these blocks.

 

 

From left to right, these are: 2 assemblies of shackled sheet and clew garnet blocks, 4 triple blocks for the topsail sheet tackles, 2 iron-strapped, hooked, double quarter blocks, 4 + 2 spare bunt line blocks that will be lashed to the jackstays, 4 + 2 spare of these to be hooked under the crosstrees, and 2 reef tackle blocks that will be tied off to the jackstays.  Except for the two 11" sheet blocks, all are 8".

 

The next picture shows the method I use for the simplest strapping configuration – a strap with a single eye.

 

 

 

Strapping line, about 1/3 in size to the size of the block, is first tied in a double overhand knot around a pin to form the eye.  With the block held in a surgical clamp, the splice at the base of the block is formed with a single overhand knot.  The pin left in the eye is helpful in centering the eye on the top of the block when tying the splice.  The splice and the top knot are then brushed with diluted dark glue.  This simple method works well for small blocks – and is easy – especially helpful if you have 100's to do.

 

The next picture shows the sheet/clew garnet block assemblies before cutting off the excess strapping.  For these, the eyes were first tied around the shackles then spliced below as described above.

 

 

The shackles are large enough to handle the eyes of the sheet, tack and lazy tack – to be shown later.  In the next picture all the lashed blocks have been installed.

 

 

The last picture shows the attached blocks on one side. 

 

 

Below the yardarm is the reef tackle block lashed to the lower collar eye.  The topping lift pendant is shackled to the top eye and dangles behind the yard. The brace pendant, will later be shackled to the forward eye on the collar.  From the left, just inside the clamp, the first block fixed to the jackstay is the other reef tackle block – tied with hemp since this is cut free and fixed the sail when it is set.  The next two on the jackstay are the permanently lashed bunt line blocks.  Next, hanging below the yard, is the hooked iron strapped quarter block.  The loop of chain below the iron sheet block will have the triple tackle blocks shackled and the chain separated into two falls later.

 

 

Ed

[paulsutcliffe]

Fantastic work as usual Ed, ,lovely to watch

Regards

Paul 

[Maury S]

And my wife thinks I'm patient...🙂

Maury

[Kurt Johnson]

Ed,  I’ve been following your builds and I have begun Vol 1 of the Young America and I know I’ll enjoy every page. I would rather read than watch TV and certainly love good fiction. But books like yours are my favorite. I got hooked on Longridge’s Victory and Cutty Sark books in he 1970’s, Underhill too, and read them several times each. Now its your turn. I have to save up for Vol 2 and 3. Thanks. Lottsa quality time coming up!

 

Kurt

[rwiederrich]

Hey Ed...I was thinking and I noticed you have not utilized the top mast sheaves for anything....what will be their purpose within your rigging scheme?

 

Rob

[Kurt Johnson]

Ed, I have a personal question to ask you, what was your profession before you retired? It may have been discussed before and if it had I missed it. It may have been on the dust jacket of your book, which I took off and can't find ( weird habit I have, I don't want the jacket to get torn, so instead it gets lost).  Anyway I always wonder, if skills from a person's daily life transition into their model building life. Your meticulous attention to detail and the logically planned sequence approach to building individual segments of your models reminds me of the friends I have who are Engineers, or very simila .

Edited September 14, 2018 by Kurt Johnson

[Kurt Johnson]

Sorry I  must have have hit something by error. I was going to say Engineers or a very similar mindset. I'm not, but had learned the how to approach a task  from their point of view. Which is funny because I have always done the opposite in my personal life. I'm just curious because, the results definitely shows that it works. As they say "inquiring minds want to know".

 

[EdT]

Thanks again for all the comments and likes.

 

Rob, there are two sheaves through each topmast, one at the base and one toward the top just under the hounds.  The upper sheave carries the halyard tye for the mast's yard.  The halyard tye, usually chain on these ships, supports the yard by the center band, then passes up through the sheave and down behind the mast where it is connected to a gin block, at least on the larger yards, that is used to haul up the yard.  The lower sheave has no operational purpose and thus no rigging.  It is used to erect and lower the topmast.  To do this,with the topmast set vertically and just forward of the mast below,  a tackle is rigged from the mast cap above, passing down through the forward opening in the top (or crosstrees), through the mast sheave and back up through the opening to the tackle block.  This sheave is set at an angle through the mast to allow the tackle ropes to clear the tight framing of the opening.  Striking down topgallant masts was quite common at sea.  Topmasts less so.  Lower yards would have to be removed or swayed out of the way to strike or raise a topmast.  One item to note:  Topmasts were normally of a length to fit between the deck and the underside of the top.  If longer, a hatch would be required in the deck just forward of the lower mast to accommodate the excess length.

 

Kurt, thank you for your interest in the books and shame on you for losing the beautiful dust jacket with the painting of YA in the Irish Sea off Liverpool by Derek Gardner - one of my favorite marine artists.  It is true that I am an engineer by training and by profession, at least in my early years.  Although I try to avoid the stereotypical engineer labeling, it is sometimes hard to suppress, with ship modeling being prime territory for its emergence.

 

At the risk of being too meticulous, I want to point out an omission in the last post.  The photo showing all the yard blocks is incomplete in that the leech line blocks are not in place.  I had installed, then removed them in some confusion over whether these were used on the this yard.  They were - and they have been re-lashed as will be seen in the next posts. 

 

And Maury, my wife would never call me patient - or when it comes to things I do for her, meticulous. 

 

Ed

[Kurt Johnson]

Ed,

 

Thanks for the answer. I’m sure I’ll find the dust jacket, I put some place safe, but forgot where that was. I guess pretty soon I’ll be able to hide my own Easter Eggs.

 

Kurt

[AON]

Kurt

I do exactly the same thing.

I put put mine in the bedroom clothes closet... top shelf.  May be you should start looking on your top shelf. 😉

Alan

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 298 – Crojack Yard 3

 

In the first picture, the yard has been permanently hung on its truss, the sling chain fastened to the mast, and the two triple tackles for the lower topsail yard sheets rigged.  These are shown in the first picture. 

 

The tackles are fixed to the sheet chains with wire shackles, formed in place.  At the lower ends the blocks are hooked to deck eyebolts.  The tackle falls pass through sheaves in the sheet bitts and will be belayed on pins through those bitts.  The next picture shows the two yard braces with their pendants.

 

 

I am installing the mizzen braces as each yard is rigged because they run forward toward the center and should not interfere with later rigging access like those on the forward masts that run outboard.  Those are being deferred until later.  In the picture the two pendants are threaded on to a wire that will form the common shackle by which they are secured to an eyebolt on the main mast.  The next picture shows that shackle being formed.

 

 

To make the shackle, the wire is passed through the eyebolt from both sides.  A single overhand loop in the wire is then pulled tight through the eyebolt to simulate a shackle.  The wire will later be painted black.  The braces are spliced to eyes in the block straps as shown in the previous photo.  The lines then run through blocks shackled to eyes at the yard arm, back through the pendant blocks and are belayed on the main mast fife rail below.  The next picture shows the run of the two braces.

 

 

The next picture shows the brace connection at the yardarm.  The blocks are shackled to the forward band eyebolts on each side as shown below.

 

 

The next lines on this yard to be rigged were the clue garnets with their sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached, followed by the bunt and leech lines. These are virtually identical in configuration to their counterparts on other masts that were described in earlier posts.  They may be seen in the next photo.

 

 

The clue garnet blocks are positioned by temporary belaying of the tacks and lazy tacks.  This will be adjusted later when the sheets are rigged.   These, along with most other outer rigging is being deferred until later to maximize access.  The next picture shows the bunt and leech line blocks on the yards and hooked under the top. 

 

 

These six lines pass through fairleads on the lower shrouds, then belay on the main pin rails port and starboard.  The reef tackles were then rigged, one of which is shown in the next picture.

 

 

The standing end of the reef tackle is spliced to an eye on the yardarm block that is shackled to the bottom eye on the yard arm band.  It then passes through a block tied off to the jackstay as shown, then back through the outer block, inward to the double quarter block on this side, then down to the fife rail.  This picture also shows a close view of the shackled brace block and the shackled topping lift pendant on the top eye of the band.  The loosely hanging chain is the lower topsail sheet that will be rigged later.

 

Whew!  These descriptions are like a rewrite of the rigging list.

 

Next, the bowlines.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

Very nice Ed, you must be happier to be approaching the end of spar installation   

 

cheers

 

Pat

[rwiederrich]

9 hours ago, EdT said:

Thanks again for all the comments and likes.

 

Rob, there are two sheaves through each topmast, one at the base and one toward the top just under the hounds.  The upper sheave carries the halyard tye for the mast's yard.  The halyard tye, usually chain on these ships, supports the yard by the center band, then passes up through the sheave and down behind the mast where it is connected to a gin block, at least on the larger yards, that is used to haul up the yard.  The lower sheave has no operational purpose and thus no rigging.  It is used to erect and lower the topmast.  To do this,with the topmast set vertically and just forward of the mast below,  a tackle is rigged from the mast cap above, passing down through the forward opening in the top (or crosstrees), through the mast sheave and back up through the opening to the tackle block.  This sheave is set at an angle through the mast to allow the tackle ropes to clear the tight framing of the opening.  Striking down topgallant masts was quite common at sea.  Topmasts less so.  Lower yards would have to be removed or swayed out of the way to strike or raise a topmast.  One item to note:  Topmasts were normally of a length to fit between the deck and the underside of the top.  If longer, a hatch would be required in the deck just forward of the lower mast to accommodate the excess length.

 

Kurt, thank you for your interest in the books and shame on you for losing the beautiful dust jacket with the painting of YA in the Irish Sea off Liverpool by Derek Gardner - one of my favorite marine artists.  It is true that I am an engineer by training and by profession, at least in my early years.  Although I try to avoid the stereotypical engineer labeling, it is sometimes hard to suppress, with ship modeling being prime territory for its emergence.

 

At the risk of being too meticulous, I want to point out an omission in the last post.  The photo showing all the yard blocks is incomplete in that the leech line blocks are not in place.  I had installed, then removed them in some confusion over whether these were used on the this yard.  They were - and they have been re-lashed as will be seen in the next posts. 

 

And Maury, my wife would never call me patient - or when it comes to things I do for her, meticulous. 

 

Ed

Thanks Ed.....I know the top sheave is for lifting the yard...and now that you pointed it out I see the use of the bottom sheave is for lowering and lifting the  topmast.  I've sean the principle before....just overlooked it.

Thanks.

 

Rob

[EdT]

Yes, Pat - 7 down 14 to go.

[archjofo]

Hello Ed,
your construction report is like a textbook for model making.
It contains many suggestions and tips. I would like to express my thanks for that.
In the near future I will start with the Standing rigging  for my French Corvette, so of course I am particularly interested.
It is very good to see in your report how systematically you equip your model with rigging.

I'm learning a lot.

How do you make your ropes?

Edited September 17, 2018 by archjofo

[EdT]

Thank you, Johann.  I admire your work very much so your comments are really appreciated.

 

How do I make rope?  Ropemaking is such a big topic that I did not try to address it in these posts.  I do expect to provide detailed information on the methods I use in Volume III of the books.  There are many ways to make rope and many methods have been described - some no doubt better than the way I do it. 

 

Only lines 4" and above on my model use made rope.  Smaller lines are  crochetting cotton (DMC or Fincrochet) right off the spool - white, that I dye with diluted India Ink for black and natural walnut stain for hemp.  This thread is right-handed so it models rope well.  In making rope I use linen for most standing rigging because it is harder less prone to stretch, but linen thread quality has deteriorated and finding good quality linen and small sizes is difficult.  Linen is also laid up left-handed, so it makes right-handed rope quickly.  I use cotton crochet thread to make larger running lines.  Because cotton is laid up right-handed the strands must first be unwound then rewound to lay up right handed line.  This just adds some time to the process but results are still good.    I use a ropewalk much like the one described many years ago by Longridge, with many modifications over the years - mostly to overcome various effects of friction and unequal tension in the strans.  I use a hand drill for spinning the strands via a four whorl gearhead, normally using only three whorls.  Unlike Longridge, I use a motorized louper to wind up the rope after spinning the strands.  Setting the amount of twist in the strands and tension in the strands are key variables.  Sizing line based on different combinations of thread size and threads/strand is time consuming up front work in addition to setting the variables for each size and material.  I am not sure how much more  I can tell you without a major dissertation.  Considering the amount of made rope on this 1:72 model, the initial set up and testing is considerable.  Other processes and hardware may be more efficient.

 

Ed

[archjofo]

Hello Ed,
I must explain in advance that my English is not the best. I use a translation program for support and hope that I can express myself in a way that is understandable.

Thank you for the insights into the rope production. These are very important and interesting statements that help me.
I intend to use linen yarn for the ropes, as in the original.
In 1:48 scale, it may be a bit lighter than at 1:72.
Currently I'm looking for a suitable supplier, which is not easy.

I have to deal intensively with this topic now. I already got a ropewalk.

The ropewalk is in two parts and altogether 5 m long.

The construction is of a fellow modelers.
Here is a picture of it, when picking up by car.

Edited September 18, 2018 by archjofo

[EdT]

Johann,

 

Your posts are quite understandable.  Do not be deterred by this.

 

Your rope-making gear looks a lot more sophisticated than mine and should serve you very well.  I assume the the sliding tray for the top moves very freely along the track.  It appears that the "looper" is not motorized.  This means that the hook must rotated very freely allowing the rope to be wound up entirety but the torque from the twist in the strands.  It looks like you are well equipped.  Friction is the major issue with this configuration - and equal tension on the strands.

 

Finding good quality linen thread is another matter - and a real problem.  The thread I use was made by Barbour Co. of Lisburn, Northern Ireland.  I believe it was used mainly for veterinary sutures.  It is almost entirely free of slubs - bumps in the thread from irregularities in the flax from which it is spun.  Barbour was sold some years ago and taken over by Coats - a large sewing thread manufacturer.  I have found that their quality is not nearly as good and that the finest size, No. 100, does not appear to be available.  This is the most useful size for making model rope.  My guess is that bookbinders, that primarily use the product today, are probably not too concerned by slubs.   The other primary use, I think, is lace-making.  I have tried lace-making linen without much success, but this may be a better source in EU - perhaps Belgium.  I suggest an online search for "linen thread" but I would not be optimistic - based on my experience.  Hopefully, you will have more success.

 

After being committed to linen, I have found crochetting cotton to be a very satisfactory material and use both DMC and Fincrochet brands for making rope and as-is for smaller lines.  This thread is made from long-staple, probably Egyptian, cotton and has no synthetic content.  I have experienced no noticeable stretching with changes in humidity, but will be more comfortable after this winter.  We go from very low humidity in the winter to sometime over 95% in the summer.

 

Hope this is helpful to you.  Good luck.

 

Ed

[Dowmer]

Ed,

I've noticed Londonderry makes 100/3 thread in linen.  Have you tried them?  How is the quality?

Here's a link LONDONDERRY 100/3

 

Heres another shop in Washington that sells it.  They provide a .pdf for ship modelers for the diameter for the difference thread sizes and ship scale.

LINK

 

Love the work Ed 👍

 

 

 

[EdT]

Thanks for the tip, Dowmer.  I will get a spool and try it.

 

Ed

[archjofo]

Hello Ed,
thank you for your explanations.
They are very helpful.
The cotton yarn from DMC I know very well and is a good alternative.
Nevertheless, I would like to try linen yarn once.
Tomorrow I will receive my first samples to see the quality.

[stm]

I found from personal experience that the Londonderry line is not suitable for the purpose ship modelers are trying to achieve which is weaved  "scale" rope that perfectly/closely as possible matches the real thing. I am sure that it is excellent for what the manufacturer intended it to be used for such as book binding since it is very strong.  It didn't stain well using MinWax oil base, but did with General Finish water base that was recommended from a previous posting. I experimented taking the line right off the real. May be it would work better weaving it into a larger line. It can still be used to some extent though. Possibly someone with more knowledge will have better results that can be shared.

 

The DMC cotton line is impressive, but I mainly use linen which fits the museum standard developed by the American Marine Model Gallery as the preferred choice. Mainly due to linens durability as opposed to cotton. Cotton/polyester is a good alternative.

 

There was a posting years ago on line from a leading maritime artist and restorer concerning this subject. He went into detail on the various products out there and made the statement that stuck with me to this day. And that is "not to get to hung up on this". I get his point, but unfortunately I am obsessed with quality and never seem to be satisfied. Thankfully we have the people who have become masters in the art form which we can mentor, such as Ed and Johann,  whos shared knowledge has benefitted a lot of individuals.

 

Scott