Pelican 1943 by FriedClams - 1:48 - Eastern-Rig Dragger

[FlyingFish]

Neat little jig Gary, and your usual eye for detail. Enjoying this very much.

[jerome]

What ever you use for ice I would add some broken pieces of mica to the top surface to give the sparkly look of ice.

[wefalck]

One can buy ground glass, but I do not know in what sort of grain-sizes. The diorama-guys also have various products to simulate snow that may represent crushed ice. Was the ice taken in as crushed ice or as blocks? Crushed ice would melt much faster than ice in blocks.

[jerome]

The ice plants in Maine only supplied crushed ice.

it was easier to shovel.

Not sure about the southern ports.

[Keith Black]

In the fisheries I'm familiar with ice for fish holding is flake ice. Block ice doesn't provide enough fish surface contact and crushed ice is too rough and dimples the skin/flesh of the fish. Flake ice is made at the processing plant and is normally provided free of charge to boats/skippers who fish for the processor. 

[TOM G]

Your skill's run very deep...... Great work.👍

[Glen McGuire]

Incredible work, Gary (as usual!).

[FriedClams]

 Thanks to all for your comments, feedback and "likes".  It is so appreciated.

 

On 5/27/2024 at 5:17 PM, Paul Le Wol said:

When you stain the wood with the chalk/ alcohol do you apply it to the raw wood and have you had any problems with blotching?

 

I do apply it to raw wood and yes it can get blotchy if I try to add too much color in one wash, especially on soft wood such as basswood.  Typically, I lay down one or two very diluted washes rather than one heavy wash and I don't mix the chalk/alcohol to a gain a paint-like solution.  It's mostly alcohol with a tad of chalk added in.  I dip my brush into clean alcohol and then pick up some of the powder that I scraped off the side of a chalk stick and brush it on.  If it's too much color, I wash on more clean alcohol to dilute and blend it.  When I'm doing a quantity of wood at once, I'll scrape the sides of the chalk directly on to the wood and then with a sopping 1/2" brush of straight alcohol, slop it all around.  But that is an on-bench process only - never on the model itself.  Play around with some scrap wood and you'll quickly see how easy, forgiving, controllable and versatile it is.  For deeper richer colors, the same process can be used with pigment powders but that is not as forgiving.  Thanks Paul.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 7:22 AM, wefalck said:

One can buy ground glass, but I do not know in what sort of grain-sizes. The diorama-guys also have various products to simulate snow that may represent crushed ice. Was the ice taken in as crushed ice or as blocks? Crushed ice would melt much faster than ice in blocks.

 

Thanks for the tip on the ground glass.  I found a vendor that sells several grits in small quantities so I'm going to order some to take a look at it.  I'll report my findings.  I've only ever seen crushed/flaked ice used.  Thanks, Wefalck.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 8:25 AM, jerome said:

The ice plants in Maine only supplied crushed ice.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 9:33 AM, Keith Black said:

In the fisheries I'm familiar with ice for fish holding is flake ice. Block ice doesn't provide enough fish surface contact and crushed ice is too rough and dimples the skin/flesh of the fish.

   

Jerome and Keith, thanks for your input and I agree - crushed ice and I think mostly flaked.  Especially today - what they used in 1943, not sure.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 7:13 AM, jerome said:

What ever you use for ice I would add some broken pieces of mica to the top surface to give the sparkly look of ice

 

Good suggestion Jerome.  Thanks.  As mentioned above, I'll be looking at some ground glass and see how sparkly (or not) that is first.

 

@Keith Black  Thanks for the link on the snow/ice modeling, Keith.  I don't know if those products will work for me here, but I'll keep them in mind and add them into my info folder.  Night Shift is an amazing modeler!

 

@Paul Le Wol @Keith Black @Jim Lad @FlyingFish @TOM G @Glen McGuire  Thank you for your kind words on the work in progress. 

 

Stay well,  Gary

Edited May 30 by FriedClams
Spelling

[Paul Le Wol]

Gary, thank you for explaining your technique. Definitely going to give it a try. The results you’ve achieved are amazing.

[druxey]

I wonder whether a piece of tempered glass, shattered, would provide granules of the scale size?

[FriedClams]

32 minutes ago, druxey said:

I wonder whether a piece of tempered glass, shattered, would provide granules of the scale size?

That’s a good idea, Druxey.  Depending on how the ground glass looks, I might give that a try for size variation if nothing else. Thanks.

 

Gary

[kurtvd19]

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.

Kurt

 

[FlyingFish]

Also, you can get crushed glass chips online - 1-3mm and smaller from craft suppliers. Maybe fix with clear UV resin?

[FriedClams]

14 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.

 

Good to have you looking in, Kurt!  I always value your input and encouragement.

 

6 hours ago, FlyingFish said:

Also, you can get crushed glass chips online - 1-3mm and smaller from craft suppliers. Maybe fix with clear UV resin?

 

I ordered some ground glass online in 3 different grits that I'm guessing will be close to a correct scale.  They sell it in small sample size quantities, so it was inexpensive and I don't end up with a pile of it left over.  I've seen railroad modelers fix things like a pile of coal with just a PVA/water solution that seems to hold together quite well, so I think I'll give that a try first.  But yes, a resin or epoxy may end up being the way to go.  Once the glass is delivered, I'll post what the stuff looks like and how it sizes up.  Thank you, Andy. 

 

Gary     

[FriedClams]

 

Greetings Fellow Modelers 

 

Thanks to all for the comments, "likes" and for taking a look.

 

 

Completed Fish Hold

 

I've been working on this model sporadically and at long last the fish hold is now done.

 

Crushed/flaked ice has been added to the hold. The ice is ground glass and thanks go out to @wefalck and @FlyingFish for bringing this product to my attention.  And I thank everyone who took the time to offer the helpful suggestions on this matter.  I purchased 1oz. sample packs of different grits and the best match for the scale was 80 grit shown in the following two images.

 

 

 

The paper rule is imperial in 1:48.

 

 

 

This is what 70 grit looks like, although I suspect the package was mislabeled and is actually 60 grit.

 

 

 

And 50 grit.  This would make great looking broken glass for smaller scales.

 

 

 

This material has an insistent angle of repose, so in order to help define how it piles and slopes, I predefined the spaces with torn pieces of open-cell foam pushed into the bunkers. This also lessened the amount of material used.  In fact, the 1oz. sample packet was more than I needed.

 

 

 

I ended up using half of the 80 grit and just a portion (for size variation) of the 70 grit.  A small paper funnel with an attached styrene tube makes placement easy and accurate.

 

 

 

This particular ground glass can be found online marketed as “German Glitter Glass”.  It is used by crafters to make things – glitter.  And it certainly does do that.

 

 

 

The material is fixed into place using a method I learned from model railroaders.  I mixed up a solution of 50/50 water/PVA with a couple of drops of surfactant to break surface tension.  I use a dishwasher rinse agent for this, but windshield washer fluid works great also – or even liquid soap.  I also added a few drops of white acrylic paint and an ever so small amount of phthalo blue to keep it from leaning toward yellow.  The image below is the result.  The ground glass actually appears finer, but that is only because the solution is sort of milky and has taken much of the contrast out and the “in your face” sparkles.  Granted, the photo below is darker than the one above, but that is the only difference.

 

 

 

 

The close up below shows the floorboards have been darkened with India ink/alcohol to suggest wet wood.  On top of that a light layer of a craft store product called Gallery Glass (crystal clear) was brushed on for a watery look.

 

 

 

Finally, a little ink/alcohol in the bunkers above the ice (again as wet staining) and also here and there to add definition to areas of wood.

 

 

The LED lighting I had previously placed will be reattached when the deck beams go on next.  I'm glad to be climbing out of this smelly fish hold. 

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Stay well.

 

Gary

 

 

[gsdpic]

Wow, that looks fantastic.  The shovel that popped up in the last photo is a nice touch!

[Jack12477]

Very nicely done, Gary. 

[Glen McGuire]

Exceptional work, Gary.

[Keith Black]

 Looks fishy to me. 

[Paul Le Wol]

Gary, whenever you post an update I smile because I know I’m in for a treat! 👍

[Jim Lad]

That's very convincing "ice", Gary.

 

John

[FlyingFish]

Cool, very cool...😉   I shall nick this brilliant idea for the fish hold on my boat. Great job Gary!

[druxey]

Terrific and convincing result, Gary!

[KeithAug]

Absolutely beautiful Gary.

[vaddoc]

Just wonderful Gary!

[TBlack]

“The material is fixed into place using a method I learned from model railroaders.  I mixed up a solution of 50/50 water/PVA with a couple of drops of surfactant to break surface tension.  I use a dishwasher rinse agent for this, but windshield washer fluid works great also – or even liquid soap.

 

sounds like you have to be a bit of a chemist to pull this off!

 

 

[TBlack]

The shovel is so typical of the details you put into your efforts.

[wefalck]

I am glad that the crushed glass worked. I wasn't aware that you can actually get in various meshes for decorative purposes.

 

How much of this will be visible in the end, when the model is completed?

[Cathead]

That's spectacular. 

[FriedClams]

Gary, Jack, Glen, Keith B, Paul, John, Andy, Druxey, Keith A, Vaddoc, Tom, Eberhard and Eric - Thank you for your comments and kind words and thanks to all for the "thumbs up".  As always, I so appreciate it.

 

On 6/23/2024 at 5:36 PM, gsdpic said:

The shovel that popped up in the last photo is a nice touch!

 

On 6/24/2024 at 8:55 PM, TBlack said:

The shovel is so typical of the details you put into your efforts.

 

Thanks, somehow my junk box keeps offering up just what I'm looking for.

 

On 6/23/2024 at 8:03 PM, Keith Black said:

Looks fishy to me.

 

HA! - It would look even more fishy with scale cod and haddock laying on top - but I'm not going there.

 

On 6/24/2024 at 3:22 AM, Jim Lad said:

That's very convincing "ice", Gary.

 

On 6/24/2024 at 1:40 PM, druxey said:

Terrific and convincing result, Gary!

 

Thanks, the ice turned out better than I thought it would.  Sometimes you just get lucky, and everything falls together.

 

On 6/24/2024 at 12:58 PM, FlyingFish said:

 I shall nick this brilliant idea for the fish hold on my boat.

 

It might be worth considering Andy, although I'm sure there are other good approaches.  This holds together really well.  I flipped the boat over and slapped the bottom repeatedly and only the scattered stray shards fell out, as desired.  Everything else is now a single solid mass.  I forgot to mention that the solution was applied with a syringe style dropper.  Be aware that the solution is thin enough that it can run and soak areas where you don't want it.  Needless to say, get a feel for it off-model first.

 

 

On 6/24/2024 at 8:54 PM, TBlack said:

sounds like you have to be a bit of a chemist to pull this off!

 

It's easy Tom, the model railroaders have been doing this for ages to set gravel, dirt, mounds of coal, etc.  But a wetting agent of some kind is key.

 

On 6/25/2024 at 2:02 AM, wefalck said:

How much of this will be visible in the end, when the model is completed?

 

There are two good sized hatches that will be open as well as one or several deck bunker plates.  And it will be lit with LEDs.  It's one of those situations where it's difficult to predict what will be visible through any one opening and view angle.  But once the deck goes on, I'll have no opportunity to fix what I don't like or wish I had done better.

 

Gary