Pelican 1943 by FriedClams - 1:48 - Eastern-Rig Dragger

[FlyingFish]

Neat little jig Gary, and your usual eye for detail. Enjoying this very much.

[jerome]

What ever you use for ice I would add some broken pieces of mica to the top surface to give the sparkly look of ice.

[wefalck]

One can buy ground glass, but I do not know in what sort of grain-sizes. The diorama-guys also have various products to simulate snow that may represent crushed ice. Was the ice taken in as crushed ice or as blocks? Crushed ice would melt much faster than ice in blocks.

[jerome]

The ice plants in Maine only supplied crushed ice.

it was easier to shovel.

Not sure about the southern ports.

[Keith Black]

In the fisheries I'm familiar with ice for fish holding is flake ice. Block ice doesn't provide enough fish surface contact and crushed ice is too rough and dimples the skin/flesh of the fish. Flake ice is made at the processing plant and is normally provided free of charge to boats/skippers who fish for the processor. 

[TOM G]

Your skill's run very deep...... Great work.👍

[Glen McGuire]

Incredible work, Gary (as usual!).

[FriedClams]

 Thanks to all for your comments, feedback and "likes".  It is so appreciated.

 

On 5/27/2024 at 5:17 PM, Paul Le Wol said:

When you stain the wood with the chalk/ alcohol do you apply it to the raw wood and have you had any problems with blotching?

 

I do apply it to raw wood and yes it can get blotchy if I try to add too much color in one wash, especially on soft wood such as basswood.  Typically, I lay down one or two very diluted washes rather than one heavy wash and I don't mix the chalk/alcohol to a gain a paint-like solution.  It's mostly alcohol with a tad of chalk added in.  I dip my brush into clean alcohol and then pick up some of the powder that I scraped off the side of a chalk stick and brush it on.  If it's too much color, I wash on more clean alcohol to dilute and blend it.  When I'm doing a quantity of wood at once, I'll scrape the sides of the chalk directly on to the wood and then with a sopping 1/2" brush of straight alcohol, slop it all around.  But that is an on-bench process only - never on the model itself.  Play around with some scrap wood and you'll quickly see how easy, forgiving, controllable and versatile it is.  For deeper richer colors, the same process can be used with pigment powders but that is not as forgiving.  Thanks Paul.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 7:22 AM, wefalck said:

One can buy ground glass, but I do not know in what sort of grain-sizes. The diorama-guys also have various products to simulate snow that may represent crushed ice. Was the ice taken in as crushed ice or as blocks? Crushed ice would melt much faster than ice in blocks.

 

Thanks for the tip on the ground glass.  I found a vendor that sells several grits in small quantities so I'm going to order some to take a look at it.  I'll report my findings.  I've only ever seen crushed/flaked ice used.  Thanks, Wefalck.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 8:25 AM, jerome said:

The ice plants in Maine only supplied crushed ice.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 9:33 AM, Keith Black said:

In the fisheries I'm familiar with ice for fish holding is flake ice. Block ice doesn't provide enough fish surface contact and crushed ice is too rough and dimples the skin/flesh of the fish.

   

Jerome and Keith, thanks for your input and I agree - crushed ice and I think mostly flaked.  Especially today - what they used in 1943, not sure.

 

On 5/28/2024 at 7:13 AM, jerome said:

What ever you use for ice I would add some broken pieces of mica to the top surface to give the sparkly look of ice

 

Good suggestion Jerome.  Thanks.  As mentioned above, I'll be looking at some ground glass and see how sparkly (or not) that is first.

 

@Keith Black  Thanks for the link on the snow/ice modeling, Keith.  I don't know if those products will work for me here, but I'll keep them in mind and add them into my info folder.  Night Shift is an amazing modeler!

 

@Paul Le Wol @Keith Black @Jim Lad @FlyingFish @TOM G @Glen McGuire  Thank you for your kind words on the work in progress. 

 

Stay well,  Gary

Edited May 30 by FriedClams
Spelling

[Paul Le Wol]

Gary, thank you for explaining your technique. Definitely going to give it a try. The results you’ve achieved are amazing.

[druxey]

I wonder whether a piece of tempered glass, shattered, would provide granules of the scale size?

[FriedClams]

32 minutes ago, druxey said:

I wonder whether a piece of tempered glass, shattered, would provide granules of the scale size?

That’s a good idea, Druxey.  Depending on how the ground glass looks, I might give that a try for size variation if nothing else. Thanks.

 

Gary

[kurtvd19]

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.

Kurt

 

[FlyingFish]

Also, you can get crushed glass chips online - 1-3mm and smaller from craft suppliers. Maybe fix with clear UV resin?

[FriedClams]

14 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.

 

Good to have you looking in, Kurt!  I always value your input and encouragement.

 

6 hours ago, FlyingFish said:

Also, you can get crushed glass chips online - 1-3mm and smaller from craft suppliers. Maybe fix with clear UV resin?

 

I ordered some ground glass online in 3 different grits that I'm guessing will be close to a correct scale.  They sell it in small sample size quantities, so it was inexpensive and I don't end up with a pile of it left over.  I've seen railroad modelers fix things like a pile of coal with just a PVA/water solution that seems to hold together quite well, so I think I'll give that a try first.  But yes, a resin or epoxy may end up being the way to go.  Once the glass is delivered, I'll post what the stuff looks like and how it sizes up.  Thank you, Andy. 

 

Gary