Bugatti Type 35B by CDW - FINISHED - Italeri - 1:12 Scale

[CDW]

Moving forward with construction and weathering of the engine. More to do. Taking it slow and easy.

[CDW]

Need to add ignition wires, magneto, and radiator hoses then the engine construction will be complete. All will get a coat of dull lacquer to seal and unify the colors.

 

 

[druxey]

Love the exhaust manifold treatment!

[Old Collingwood]

That engine  looks  so sweet.

 

OC.

[CDW]

1 hour ago, druxey said:

Love the exhaust manifold treatment!

 

1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said:

That engine  looks  so sweet.

 

OC.

Thanks for the kind comments gentlemen. Exhaust manifolds painted red-brown then dusted with pigment powders.

[CDW]

Guess what new kit comes out this month (it's already released for sale in Germany)? I have one on backorder at Hannants.

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

40 minutes ago, CDW said:

Guess what new kit comes out this month (it's already released for sale in Germany)? I have one on backorder at Hannants.

 

 

"Nice y nice y"    that  looks  like a  gem.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Body to chassis dry fit looks okay to move forward.

[Twokidsnosleep]

This is going together very nicely with some excellent modelling skills

Fit and finish look really good

Built a Revival T35 version and it was a wrestling match the entire way through 

[CDW]

11 minutes ago, Twokidsnosleep said:

This is going together very nicely with some excellent modelling skills

Fit and finish look really good

Built a Revival T35 version and it was a wrestling match the entire way through 

Thanks Scott.

I was kinda worried about the chassis alignment, keeping it straight and true/not warped but as it turns out, Italeri engineered the kit to self-align with the fit of the engine block and body pan. There are some small screws in strategic locations that keeps everything on the straight and narrow. Seems as though Italeri took their game to a higher level with this kit. Besides that, I doubt that any other kit maker will offer a Bugatti Type 35 at this scale and at this price point. I think I paid around $150 for it through Amazon. The epic MFH version of it fetches around $800 or more. If somebody like Tamiya did one, my guess is it would sell for something north of $300.

 

Craig

[CDW]

Here is a reference photo of a restored Bugatti. 

I'm thinking about filing off the raised details then drilling and placing pins along the lines where the lower and upper body parts fasten together, then joining them together with wire as on the 1:1 car.

[yvesvidal]

Craig, that is so interesting. I had never realized that the panels were attached together, using these pins and wire technique. 

Detailing that aspect, would make your model quite unique.

 

Yves

[CDW]

3 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Craig, that is so interesting. I had never realized that the panels were attached together, using these pins and wire technique. 

Detailing that aspect, would make your model quite unique.

 

Yves

The Model Factory Hiro kit comes with those details as parts of the assembly of the model. It's a small detail but I think it would make the model more interesting. Need to look for some very fine silver wire although I do have some fine copper wire.

[shipman]

Pulling off a convincing bolt and lock-wire job at that scale would be something.

Remember the wire is 2 strand twisted.

Looking at the photo it appears each section of panel wiring is one continuous run; someone must have had fun with that.

It's usual to wire bolts/nuts in pairs. There should be a diagonal bias, so the wire stops the fastener unwinding.....it's only reason for being there at all.

[Egilman]

48 minutes ago, shipman said:

There should be a diagonal bias, so the wire stops the fastener unwinding.....it's only reason for being there at all.

Yep, they do this to aircraft engines all the time... (and to aircraft skins before the advent of flush riveting)

And, it's not really a bias, it done in opposition to the way the fastener turns... Think about it for a sec, the bolt or nut turns right handed to tighten, left hand to loosen, so the wire will run from the bottom side of one hex head to the top side of the next hex head on the left preventing either from turning left handed...

 

But this is the first time I've seen such done for an entire line of bolts or screws continuously... (usually done in pairs)

 

Beautiful work so far Craig...

Edited September 29, 2023 by Egilman

[shipman]

Thanks. Egilman, that's what I tried to describe.

[CDW]

2 hours ago, shipman said:

Pulling off a convincing bolt and lock-wire job at that scale would be something.

Remember the wire is 2 strand twisted.

Looking at the photo it appears each section of panel wiring is one continuous run; someone must have had fun with that.

It's usual to wire bolts/nuts in pairs. There should be a diagonal bias, so the wire stops the fastener unwinding.....it's only reason for being there at all.

 

1 hour ago, Egilman said:

Yep, they do this to aircraft engines all the time... (and to aircraft skins before the advent of flush riveting)

And, it's not really a bias, it done in opposition to the way the fastener turns... Think about it for a sec, the bolt or nut turns right handed to tighten, left hand to loosen, so the wire will run from the bottom side of one hex head to the top side of the next hex head on the left preventing either from turning left handed...

 

But this is the first time I've seen such done for an entire line of bolts or screws continuously... (usually done in pairs)

 

Beautiful work so far Craig...

Thanks for the input guys. Very interesting.

If I stay true to the particular subject I'm modeling, the unrestored winner of the '29 Monaco GP, I would not do the safety wires at all as it didn't have them. Probably removed somewhere down through the years I guess. I need to think this over as I may regret adding it later.

[mtaylor]

2 hours ago, Egilman said:

But this is the first time I've seen such done for an entire line of bolts or screws continuously... (usually done in pairs)

 

That will be challenging work.    As for the method, it appears to me that as it is each pair of screws is wired and not the whole line of them.   I had to copy and enlarge the image it's the body panel joint at that level that looks like wire.    Way back in military days, safety wiring was done either way depending but it was far easier to do pairs.  And the inspectors (QC) seemed to prefer it also.   

[CDW]

The body panels were made of aluminum. The lower body pan had a number of ejector pin marks that needed filling. For the first time, tried using Mr Disolved Putty. It goes down readily with a paint brush and is self leveling. After it dries is easy to sand. After allowing the putty to dry over night, sanded it down and primed the pan with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. Ready for aluminum paint then weathering. I should mention this car has no floorboard. The body pan is the floorboard. Weird to me but that’s the way it was/is.

[DocRob]

Very nice progress Craig and I learn a lot about the real thing. Definitely an interesting car.

 

Cheers Rob

[CDW]

1 hour ago, DocRob said:

Very nice progress Craig and I learn a lot about the real thing. Definitely an interesting car.

 

Cheers Rob

Thanks Rob. I’m having a lot of fun with the model and like you, learning about the real car as I go along.

[gsdpic]

A lot of good progress.  The "Mr. Dissolved Putty" looks interesting, I had not heard of that though I've recently used some of the Mr Color paints for the first time and liked them.  I've used the Tamiya putty in a tube but it can be difficult to apply smoothly and is often required in places that are difficult to sand well.  It sounds like this stuff might be a better solution.

 

[CDW]

After painting the radiator core halves flat black, I masked them off with Heller Maskol then assembled the chrome radiator halves. I used a 12,000 grit polishing sponge to dull down the chrome before painting the chrome with a light coat of Mr Metal Color gold. Once dry, polished down the metalized gold so that some of the chrome shows through in an effort to make it appear to be old chrome plating that was worn away after many decades of time. That nasty seam at the top of the radiator gets covered with a photo etch piece later on.

[CDW]

[DocRob]

The worn effect on the radiator looks fantastic Craig. This seems to develop into a clinic of wear and tear and I'm all eyes and ears, as I really like studying these effects.

 

Cheers Rob

[yvesvidal]

9 hours ago, CDW said:

Is that a real piece of wood, that you placed at the bottom of the cockpit?

 

Yves

[CDW]

1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

Is that a real piece of wood, that you placed at the bottom of the cockpit?

 

Yves

It’s where I used an oil wash over the bare metal finish to show grease and grime accumulation.

[CDW]

5 hours ago, DocRob said:

The worn effect on the radiator looks fantastic Craig. This seems to develop into a clinic of wear and tear and I'm all eyes and ears, as I really like studying these effects.

 

Cheers Rob

Thanks Rob. I’m having fun experimenting with this as well. It’s something I rarely ever attempt to do, showing age wear and grime.

[CDW]

[Old Collingwood]

Excellent work  Craig.

 

OC.