Jump to content

Shelby 427 S/C Cobra by CDW - FINISHED - Fujimi - 1:24 Scale


CDW

Recommended Posts

There were some specks of dust embedded in my clear coat, so I wanted to wet sand them out. After allowing the clear coat to cure 72hrs+, used a 3000 grit sanding/polishing sponge to lightly give it a go.

 

IMG_5793.thumb.jpg.cd643b4cfa4b5df459f883fde8d30f78.jpgIMG_5792.thumb.jpg.ee842c878724727f5631704e3cbf2198.jpgIMG_5791.thumb.jpg.573d17338a2f14e972b98b92c4cd2379.jpg

 

Next, used three grades of Tamiya polishing compound in successive sessions.

 

IMG_5794.thumb.jpg.47ca926714c81ce42f264e90deb873ee.jpg

 

Last, used Tamiya wax to finish it out.

 

IMG_5795.thumb.jpg.995d948d1909dd47b4faee887c259b64.jpgIMG_5796.thumb.jpg.c4782004f0fd150a9eff777fa5f58af6.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That  is  an amazing  rescue  -   that   gloss   hi sheen  finish  looks  amazing.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

That  is  an amazing  rescue  -   that   gloss   hi sheen  finish  looks  amazing.

 

OC.

It’s next to impossible to avoid all specks of dust or even a grain of dirt in a clear coat. So this is pretty much standard procedure to fix it. One must be very careful not to burn through the clear coat or else another clear coat will be needed.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great.  That gloss finish is very nice.  I've never used 2k clear....the extra cautions/extra recommended PPE for it scares me away so I just stick with the Tamiya X-22 for now.   I also recently got some of the Tamiya polishing compound.   For some reason, I found that hard to acquire in the US.  I added it to my Spot Model order when I ordered the MFH seatbelts to use on my Lotus 72D.

 

Looks like the wheels fit into the wheel wells nicely now with your suspension modification.  On the Revell kit I did, I had to pull the front wheels in a bit as they seemed to stick out too far.   And I also trimmed down the center wheel spinners/knock offs as they were almost comically large in that kit.

 

Edited by gsdpic

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, gsdpic said:

Looks great.  That gloss finish is very nice.  I've never used 2k clear....the extra cautions/extra recommended PPE for it scares me away so I just stick with the Tamiya X-22 for now.  

The two major problems with 2K clear are:

 

1) The price - You have to plan for $25 a bottle. Then, you'd better have other projects to clear at the same time, as the can will last only a few days if conserved in the fridge.

2) The spraying: you really have to have a complete covering suit, goggles and a serious painting mask with dual canisters. Do not spray inside, if you can avoid it as while drying, the clear will vaporize and leave a small residue on your shelves and other horizontal surfaces.

 

Otherwise, it is a fantastic product that I have used on models and pinball playfields with a lot of success.

 

Yves

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My advantage is a dedicated spray booth in a separate building outside.  I agree, without the appropriate gear, leave it alone. I bought this quart size can and a pint of hardener over a year ago and it’s still fine. Paid somewhere around $65 for it. Have used it a number of times on various projects. Custom Creations Creative brand.

 

PS: I see now where my source is selling a 5 liter can with a half-size of hardener for $100, so my memory of $65 for my liter (I said quart earlier) size was probably more like $45 instead of $65, but whatever. You get ripped off when you buy things like this in tiny, small, "hobby sized" bottles. 

Another thing....keep your hardener far away from the base and use every precaution not to introduce and hardener whatsoever to your can of base. It's so easy to accidentally contaminate the entire batch and if you do, it will harden it in nothing flat.

Edited by CDW
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Headers and side pipe exhaust system. Each side consists of 5 pieces, 10 pieces in all. Bad news, the early indications are, they don't fit. 🤔 Will have to make them fit as best I can. Worst case scenario, the bonnet will remain closed. It appears the headers don't quite reach the heads. I may be able to extend each of the 4 header pipes to each head and make them fit. We'll see. I had the feeling all along this could be a problem area, and it seems as though it is. Murphy's law at work here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, CDW said:

Headers and side pipe exhaust system. Each side consists of 5 pieces, 10 pieces in all. Bad news, the early indications are, they don't fit.

That's unfortunate.  This was a weak area of the revell kit as well.  In that case, the problem was that the end of the headers did not come close to meeting up with the beginning of the side pipes.  It's visible but not too noticeable looking in the open hood but very noticeable if you pick up the car and look at the underside.

 

With your skills, I am sure you'll figure something out.

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, gsdpic said:

This was a weak area of the revell kit as well.  In that case, the problem was that the end of the headers did not come close to meeting up with the beginning of the side pipes.  It's visible but not too noticeable looking in the open hood but very noticeable if you pick up the car and look at the underside.

 

This will be where I leave well enough alone and enjoy it as an interesting shelf model. As you said, when you pick it up and look underneath, there is no hiding the fact the collector pipes do not line up properly with the headers. In the end, I chose to make the header pipes line up with the heads, as these parts can be seen with the bonnet open, and not worry about the collector to header match. The only real way I can see to solve this deficiency is to build a custom set of headers. The model is not of sufficient quality to make that a worthwhile effort. To bring this model up to a showpiece level, a LOT of scratch building would be required and that's not something I'm interested to do with this kit.

As a side note, I have looked through other builder's efforts with this model and have noticed that the better modelers such as Plasmo, don't even give any photos of the header to collector fit and that leads me to believe it's a common problem. Looking at the history of this kit, it was originally released as a curbside kit, meaning no engine detail except for a plastic insert that showed a raised detail of the bottom of the engine. The collectors were cemented to a plate on the bottom of the chassis. Somewhere along the way, Fujimi added the engine and header details without making other improvements to the chassis. My kit even came with the parts to build it as a curbside model on the sprue trees. If I had known how poor the fit was going to be, I actually would have built it as a curbside model and cut out a lot of work.

Anyway, it is what it is. 

 

 

DSCN3530.JPG

DSCN3531.JPG

DSCN3532.JPG

DSCN3533.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting very close to finish now. 

As I look at it, I'm satisfied with the model as a nice addition to my model car shelf but it's definitely not a show model. Maybe if you started with the Fujimi body shell then scratch built the chassis or maybe even scavenged the chassis from another kit (not sure what all is out there), added an aftermarket engine/transmission, along with other things, you could make a show model from this. For the $30ish price tag I paid for the model, I really can't complain. Also from this experience, I would recommend using the kit supplied parts and just building this as a curbside model. Forget about wasting time with the kit supplied engine and so forth. Could have built this model in half the time.

 

 

DSCN3534.JPG

DSCN3535.JPG

DSCN3536.JPG

DSCN3537.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, looks great to me!  Very nicely done.

 

It seems like there are a lot of Cobra kits out there, but I suspect that they have a lot in common with each other, and lot of the same problems.  They were probably mostly created back in the 1970s too.  Not sure which one would provide the best starting point for a model.  The one I built....I am mostly happy with the result but there are just enough flaws that I'd like to try again, so maybe some day I'll pick up another Cobra and give it a go.

 

Quick note on the photography...it seems like the blue base messes with the automatic color balance of your photos.  The first picture that has a bit of the black background looks good to me.  But many of the other pictures where there is no black background, just the blue base, the gray car has a greenish tint to me.   Maybe if you have some sort of gray base, instead of the bright blue, that you could put the model on when taking pictures, you'd have truer color representation.

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some months ago, my son gave me a pair of brand-new photography lamps that sit atop tripods. Aside from setting one up and turning it on, twisting the knobs to see how they worked, I did nothing with them until now.

Here I have one of those lamps set up and took a few photos to test the difference it makes. Looks like there is a marked difference. Maybe if I had the pair of them set up from two directions, focusing on the object to be photographed, that may be the ticket.

 

It looks like what I need to do is set up a dedicated location to take photos where I can keep all this menagerie set up and ready. 

DSCN3570.JPG

DSCN3571.JPG

DSCN3572.JPG

DSCN3573.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, it was the florescent light.  What huge difference.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful model! I love the paint job!

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That came out really great Craig!  Excellent model of an iconic car.  Love the paint color and finish!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...