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Posted

I'm currently using a pin vice hand drill that came in a set of beginner modeling tools I bought with my first model. It looks like this:

 

pinvicedrill.jpg.dea829495688453a51bf8a2912b435d5.jpg

 

It's okay with larger bits, but when I try to use something as small as a 0.3 mm bit, I have to use a wrench to get it tight enough for the bit not to slip.  I don't like using tools that I have to force this way. That's using the collet with the smallest opening, as seen in the closer end in this picture.

 

I'm wondering if I just need a better made instance of this same tool, and if so, how would I find one. Or is there a better tool for the job?

 

I hope the vast experience on this forum can help me out.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

I have a set in different sizes from Starrett - a little more expensive, but very well made.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

I have a couple of these, and they work fine from 0 to 1/8 size bits.  It uses a mini chuck, so no collets needed.

 

Pin Vise Hand Drill

image.png.834ce45628aeca7542cd001ef8a3c943.png

 

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted

I bought a set of four machinists" pin vices with collets from Micro Mark with the smallest closing down to essentially nothing. It holds the smallest drill bits I have found. These "pin vices" do not have a "head" so they can be fit into collets in a milling machine. How true they are for use a  a drill press or milling machine I do not know. But they work fine for hand tools. I have been satisfied with them for hand use.

 

4-piece Machinist's Pin Vise Set  $18.95

 

https://micromark.com/products/4-piece-machinists-pin-vise-set-1?variant=44018022318251&frt=15&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8OO3pNDBiAMVEw2tBh1YPjleEAQYASABEgL1jPD_BwE

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

Getting a set of drill bits with a large shank will help.

 

Another solution that worked for me was to use some aluminum foil. The pictures below will demonstrate. The bit never moved when being used.

20210728_122040.thumb.jpg.2a6abf728c1381a24f12adfd11e390d6.jpg20210728_122445.thumb.jpg.ee540c6694a8d5009d8e9921bffdf026.jpg20210728_122558.thumb.jpg.950ac84929e786eda420ec918e481cd5.jpg

 

Posted
2 hours ago, ERS Rich said:

If you have the budget checkout Foredom.

They show .5mm as the smallest.  Another concern with the costly bits, even though the quality is there,   breaking of the small bits, is not uncommon in the modeling environment.

 

Ten of these, .3 - 1.1mm, for $6 might be a better investment.  ( yes, they do break easily.  It pays to be careful )

 

image.png.02163dc2653cdcaae3b31cdbfdcb4623.png

 

 

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Gregory said:

They show .5mm as the smallest.  Another concern with the costly bits, even though the quality is there,   breaking of the small bits, is not uncommon in the modeling environment.

 

Ten of these, .3 - 1.1mm, for $6 might be a better investment.  ( yes, they do break easily.  It pays to be careful )

 

image.png.02163dc2653cdcaae3b31cdbfdcb4623.png

 

 

In my opinion these are not generally suitable for our hobby. The reasoning is;

 

They are pcb drills. That’s “printed circuit board” drills. They are designed to be run at many thousands of rpm, usually in air spindles doing 20-40k plus revs. They are also designed to be held rigidly and securely in controlled feed environments. They have a high helix angle (the flute spiral) and if you can’t control the feed rate they will screw themselves into wood rather than cut through it.
They are indeed cheap as they are hugely mass produced for the pcb market. Selling them to hobbyists is just up-selling.
Take all the above reasoning and then add in that they are made from very unforgiving tungsten carbide which will accommodate almost zero flexing and after the first or second time you break one in an already fixed in deck fitting you will realise you should not have bothered.

Stay with hss, high speed steel. You won’t be sorry.

A decent pin vice and a set of high speed steel drill will give you great service.

 

cheers

Paul

Edited by Toolmaker
Posted

These PCB drills work great in my little Proxxon drill press. Rarely break one because they are in a drill press and go straight up and down. I use collets so they run straight and true. When I put them in a pin vice it's like Paul says, they just screw in. Can't seem to get up to the required RPM by twisting them with my fingers. 😉

 

Rich, thanks for the heads up on the Foredom bits. Time to take a look around for some.

 

Cheers,

 

Todd

"I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it."

Vincent Van Gogh 

Posted
5 minutes ago, Tossedman said:

These PCB drills work great in my little Proxxon drill press. Rarely break one because they are in a drill press and go straight up and down. I use collets so they run straight and true. When I put them in a pin vice it's like Paul says, they just screw in. Can't seem to get up to the required RPM by twisting them with my fingers. 😉

 

Rich, thanks for the heads up on the Foredom bits. Time to take a look around for some.

 

Cheers,

 

Todd

Yes Todd, I agree. I can use them in my Sherline for the same reasons. Just not suitable for hand work.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Do you have a source for HSS smaller than #80

Companies such as Dormer do drill sets down to 0.3mm which is a little smaller than number 80. These sets are readily available from various companies.

Individual hss twist drills are easily sourced down to 0.2mm (-.008 inch). After that it’s getting specialised and prices start to take off.

I’m in the uk so my links are only relevant to there. No doubt similar is available in the US.

Posted

In my shop, fortunate to have a Fordom drill press with several hand pieces - because my hand gets tired, and need to do the work faster.

 

These micro chucks close to zero, meaning no space when fully closed.  Have several pin vices, from micromark, amati, etc.  and find even their smallest collet does not close to zero.

 

https://www.foredom.net/product/a-m50-micro-chuck-with-3-32-shank/

 

Cheers

Posted

Here is one I like alot.  It handles the really small micro bits and is VERY comfortable in the hand.

 

I got it from a local hobby shop (model train) but it is also available online.

ballendpinvise.JPG.cda03dbb24d36ca1be4d0e128307f7d9.JPG

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted

I second that Toolmaker said - the tungsten carbide bits are VERY fragile and break if they are slightly bent. You cannot se the smallest bits in hand held tools - at least not for very long. And if they break off flush with the surface you eitherr leave them in place - blocking the hole you are trying to drill = or dig them out leaving behind a crater.

 

High speed steel is what you want for pin vices and other hand tools.

 

I have used the "aluminum wrap" technique with pin vices with collets that do not close entirely. It works sometimes, sometimes not.

 

I am not entirely certain I got the four "machinists'" pin vices from Micromark - I am sure they are made in China and they seem to be available from many sources on the Internet. The smallest holds a #80 drill bit very firmly with the collet tightened hand tight (no tools needed). The entire shaft is hollow so very long drill bits can be used with the larger devices. And to steady your drilling in tight places you can insert a wooden dowel in the back end to fix the axis of rotation. I have used this method to drill holes in the inner side of bulwarks from across the model and through standing rigging.

 

A good source for tools and materials is McMaster-Carr. We used the for decades at work. Good quality tools and materials. They sell small quantities to hobbyists.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted (edited)

  A lucky builder can use a dental drill ... it can get into tight spaces and uses fairly small bits.

Edited by Snug Harbor Johnny

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted
18 hours ago, ERS Rich said:

In my shop, fortunate to have a Fordom drill press with several hand pieces - because my hand gets tired, and need to do the work faster.

 

These micro chucks close to zero, meaning no space when fully closed.  Have several pin vices, from micromark, amati, etc.  and find even their smallest collet does not close to zero.

 

https://www.foredom.net/product/a-m50-micro-chuck-with-3-32-shank/

 

Cheers

The Foredom drill press is a very well made tool and its accuracy is fantastic.  I bought one hoping it would justify the price and they certainly do.

 

I also recommend the Starrett pin vices they are very good indeed and are well worth the money.  They will last you a lifetime and then some.

 

The comments about the drill bits are spot on - I buy cheap HSS jobber bits from RS in the UK and they last ages.  They are also slightly flexible which helps when drilling in an awkward place say inside the hull with a 0.3mm bit.

Posted
On 9/14/2024 at 2:36 PM, Chuck Seiler said:

Here is one I like alot.  It handles the really small micro bits and is VERY comfortable in the hand.

 

I got it from a local hobby shop (model train) but it is also available online.

ballendpinvise.JPG.cda03dbb24d36ca1be4d0e128307f7d9.JPG

micro chucks with this handle makes drilling easy. but a motorized hand piece with the micro chucks is really the best way to go. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, paul ron said:

micro chucks with this handle makes drilling easy. but a motorized hand piece with the micro chucks is really the best way to go. 

Sometimes.  That is what my Dremel is for.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted
Posted (edited)

I second the Vanda-lay system.  Very stable, very well build.  Highly configurable.  In addition, if you have a Foredom flex-shaft, you can get an additional adaptor for it.  For me, the Foredom and the vanda-lay system are great combo.

 

However, for small hole 0.5mm or less a manual option (Pin Vise Hand Drill) is likely the best.

Edited by Loracs

Completed Build: Chinese Pirate Junk

Current Build: HMS Revenge

Current Build: Bireme, Greek Warship

Posted (edited)

I tend to shy away from tools sold in model shops, but rather go for the quality tools sold to watchmakers. They may be the same tools, but of higher quality, albeit at a somewhat higher price. However, one has to pay attention, because even watchmaker's supply houses, particularly the on-line ones, today often sell Chinese scrap. I tend to buy secondhand semi-antique tools ...

 

Below is a selection of my antique and modern tool-/workholding and drilling tools:

image.png.e8f3373bda9d4ddcbf6830fcff58b589.png

 1 - Archimedes drill for watchmakers.
 2 - Slender modern pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body.
 3 - Slender antique pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body.
 4 - Shop-made pin-vice with walnut body and head made from an insert drill-chuck; these drill-chucks are unfit for their intended purpose as they usually do not run true.
 5 - Eclipse toolmaker's pin-vice with knurled steel body; these come in different sizes.
 6 - French-style pin-vice; these are closed with the sliding ring and have usually brass inserts in the two jaws that can be adapted to special needs;
 7 - Dito, here the jaws are replaced in hard-wood for delicate parts.
 8 - Antique laboratory pin-vice with fluted wooden handle.
 9 - Modern pin-vice with fluted wooden handle; these come in different sizes and capacities.
10 - Antique toolmaker's pin-vice for very delicate work in confined spaces and for holding tiny files and broaches.

 

The Archimedes drill of No.1 closes from 1 mm down to near zero and holds even my 0.1 mm drills. They make also a variety with spring-return that can be worked with one hand (though I wouldn't do that with such tiny drills).

 

Before the days when I had all those tools, I slipped a section of cored solder wire over the drill. The run-out may too big for an electric drill, but it works very well for hand-drilling.
 

 

Edited by wefalck

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

Got this in the mail the other day. It makes holes.... so kind of useful but nothing one should buy for any reason other than it's cool. 

51WoW2kGXML._AC_.jpg.3f770b1d266090672f3e8d89243c6ce6.jpg71yEFLMBPKL._AC_SX679_.jpg.c72f39c375edbef4f61adc1782fdf83a.jpg818xRh0DzL._AC_SX679_.jpg.fc641ce2eea71b0c76d3551935d9b151.jpg

Mr. Pucko

 

Building:

Royal Caroline - Panart

Nuestra Senora del Pilar - Occre

Bounty - Occre

Titanic - Amati

Endeavour - AL

Santissima Trinidad cross section - Occre

Posted

Got a similar one for Christmas from my beloved and well-meaning, but not so well-informed in these matters wife a few years ago. If yours really goes down to the indicated rpms, it is much more useful than mine, which has rpms in the thousands. It was really meant for engraving glass, rather than drilling. For this reason it is also designed to only take bits with 2.35 mm shaft. The smallest drill diametre with this shaft seems to be 0.5 mm.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

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