HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM

[augie]

VERY nice, Ben.  

[dvm27]

Ben,

 

I also had small gaps develop between my fillers, no doubt due to humidity changes in the environment. I did fill them by applying carpenters glue and sanding until they disappeared. However, I do suspect they'll open up from time to time due to expansion and contraction. I suppose a fully planked and fastened hull might diminish this.  I believe it was Bob Bruckshaw who reported his framed hull shrank over 1/4 inch during an extended storage. His solution was to apply a wet cloth over-top for a day or so and it returned to it's original length. After applying longitudinals (wales and some planking) it remained the same.  

[Trussben]

Thanks Augie,

 

Greg - I have noticed some movement over the last two weeks since we rapidly went from hard winter to spring in a short space of time! Hopefully it will normalize.

 

Ben

[druxey]

One possible way to minimize seasonal movement is to do the structural work in the winter (low humidity) season. In the higher humidity of summer, the wood may expand slightly, but there will be no cracks or gaps. Reverse this sequence, and any movement problem will be magnified.

[Trussben]

Hull fairing well under way, if you look close you may be able to see the pencil marks that I am using to look for high/low spots.

 

Ben

[ChrisLBren]

Impressive looking hull Ben !

[dvm27]

Very nice, Ben. I'm sure you're discovering that, when sanding, you can feel when the hull is almost fair as the high and low spots converge.

[Trussben]

Thanks Chris!

 

Greg - I find I can " hear " it better than I can feel it! The sanding block ( 80 grit ) makes a note when I'm there!

Anybody else do this by ear?? Maybe I'm just weird! Not the first time this has been true, as an engineer I've worked on a lot of equipment that I know more about the way the equipment is running from its sounds and the vibration I can feel through my feet and hands.

 

Ben

[druxey]

I think we all - consciously or unconsciously - use sight, touch, hearing and, sometimes, smell when working!

[Trussben]

My Arm is getting sore from the sanding but one side is pretty much faired, now to start on the other side

 

ben

[druxey]

Ha! It's a well-known syndrome called Modeller's Biceps.

[kees de mol]

Very smooth finish. Will be a beautifull ship

[Trussben]

Good Grief, even using 80 grit paper and course blocks this really is taking some time.

I'm am going to go to a final grit of 220 below the Wales which won't be planked but I'm thinking of leaving the framing at the Wales and above at 150 grit so the glue to hold the planking on will have a bit of a tooth to grip to - anybody else do this??

 

Ben

[ChrisLBren]

Hey Ben,

I think 150 is fine above the wales where you will plank - but I would sand at 320, then 400 and finish at 600 grit below the wales for optimum finish.  Sorry to be Mr Miyagi here from Karate Kid (LOL).  Its looking good !!!

Chris

[gjdale]

Hi Ben,

 

It depends on the look/feel you want to achieve. If you want a very smooth and/or polished look on the unplanked area, then work down/up (?) to a much finer grit (say, 600). You'll find that once you've got the shape faired properly with coarser grit, the following grits will be much easier as they aren't forming the shape - they're just removing the scratches from the previous grit. Personally, I'd go to 220 where you're gluing planks, and 600 for the unplanked area - but in the end, it comes down to your own preference.

Edited April 6, 2015 by gjdale

[dvm27]

It's all personal taste Ben. I finished my unplanked area with 180 grit paper followed by a light 220 swipe. Even though it's very smooth  it presents a slight "rough hewn" appearance that might more closely approximate actual practice. 

[druxey]

I agree with Greg: I used to sand down to 400 grit, but decided that it was a bit excessive. 

[Rustyj]

Hi Ben.

 

There sure is a lot of sanding on a big frame like that. I too sanded to 150 grit on the areas to be planked and then progressively down to 400. Very seldom did I go any finer than that. Keep up the great work.

[Trussben]

The side counter timbers are being installed in the next picture, the wooden square you see was made to be exactly 12"3' wide and the same height as the toptimber height from the plan, this was then taped down to the build board exactly 5"3' back from the aft perpendicular as per TFFM.

I am hoping that doing it this way will ensure the these counter timbers are in the exact right place.

 

Ben

[druxey]

Looks like a good strategy, Ben. Those cant frames look lovely.

[Trussben]

Thanks Druxey,

 

I haven't sanded the bevel into the aft outside of the timbers, I thought I'd wait until all of the counter timbers were installed before I do that to make sure they all fair together.

 

Ben

[dvm27]

That's the way to do it, Ben. Be extra careful around them once installed. One inadvertent swipe with an elbow will snap them off (I know from experience).

[Trussben]

Thanks Greg, I'm thinking of glueing in a couple of temporary spalls across them for a little bit of security.

 

Ben

[druxey]

Yes, those timbers are very vulnerable to damage. Like Greg, I've also experienced the snapping sound that one doesn't want to hear!

[Trussben]

And here are both counter timbers installed and reinforced with a cross spall. I will now start building the framing from the DOF plan to fill in the sides.

 

Ben

[dvm27]

Perfect, Ben. Now they'll both fly off with a good swipe of the elbow  .

[druxey]

Yup, call in the reinforcements!

[Trussben]

You guys can be sooo reassuring at times, LOL.

[tlevine]

Or in my case, tripping over the dog and falling into the model.

[Trussben]

Thanks for all the likes.

 

Patterns for the remaining framing have been made to help with this area, they had to be juxtaposed in ACAD as the DOF plan is from Cygnet and doesn't exactly match the Pegasus plan or the TFFM Mylar.