HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM

[druxey]

I think, while you are correct, Michael, in saying the damp towel will expand the wood; once the humidity level returns to ambient, the wood will shrink back again. This treatment is only a temporary fix, unfortunately.

[michael mott]

Yes the Ambient levels of humidity are the key, I had assumed a change geographically from one location to one that is temporarily low. Which likely means that unless the humidity can be kept at the same as it was when the hull was assembled in the first place, which can be an unknown unless one works in a humidity controlled environment all the time. The wood might have been assembled in a much higher humidity or the wood had not reached equilibrium before being worked into frames. The opposite danger is of course the expansion of the frames pushing against the stern and stem when encountering large changes in humidity. from say Arizona to Florida, 

 

Michael

[Trussben]

Michael,

 

I tried the damp towel several times, yes the frames did swell back up, but within a day or so they shrank right back, even though I have humidity control now.

The wood was from Jeff at Hobbymill and was properly seasoned and stable.

 

Thanks to everyone for the likes and comments.

 

Ben

[Mike Y]

Ben, maybe dissolving some glue joints and inserting extra spacers will solve the problem? The hull is so great!

[Trussben]

Hull has been split into three parts by cutting through the keel and rising wood where the biggest gaps were.

Isopropyl is now being applied to remove the entire old keel from the sections, it's length had changed by 1/8", also some frame thicknesses were checked and only the midships area shows shrinking across the grain, so I'm hoping to save the fore and aft sections.

 

Ben

[Trussben]

Funnily enough, the bad midships area could be made into a cross section model with a little work!

 

Ben

[dvm27]

Every cloud has a silver lining Ben. Just add a couple of frames aft and you'll have a terrific cross-section including the pumps. Two steps forward, one step back - the mantra of the plank on framer!

[mtaylor]

Amen to the manta, Greg.    I was thinking the same thing about cross-sections, etc.  It reminded me of Jeronimo's Bon Homme Richard done in 3 sections.

[alangr4]

 

I'm sorry Ben about your mishap. Can't get over the amount of movement through the humidity. Wish you every success with the next stages.

 

Alan 

[Trussben]

New keel has been made, decided to have a ebony false keel as I have lots of it.

 

Onwards

 

Ben

[druxey]

Well, I hope that your humidity fluctuation problems are solved now, Ben! We await with expectancy....

[Rustyj]

Hi Ben.

I'm glad to see that you may be able to correct the problem without too much trouble and have a cross section to boot.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

I cross my fingers and wish you a lot of success for the repair.

[Mike40]

Hi Ben,

 

I'm new to the forum and just read your entire log to date. Excellent craftsmanship and results. It's really a shame about the major problem you encountered with the humidity after your move, but I'm sure with the determination you have displayed thus far you will overcome it. On a more positive note, your problem is a valuable learning point for myself and perhaps other new modelers. Luckily (or unluckily) it rains a lot all year here in Norway, so I have seldom had any significant humidity problems with my normal woodworking, but considering the very thin wood used for modeling it is certainly a potential problem to avoid, so I thank you for sharing your misfortune with us. Looking forward to a continuation of your wonderful build!

[Trussben]

Thanks for looking Mike40.

 

I am still waiting to get into the winter months where I have control of my humidity levels to start framing again, as per Druxeys advice that he always does his framing during the winter.

 

Be

[Trussben]

So back into modeling I go, here you can see some frames being removed from the fore section using an isopropyl bath just deep enough to cover a couple of frames.

[albert]

Good work Trussben.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

I don't want to hit the Like Button, because It  made me very sad what I see. There was a huge amount of work in your frameing and it must be a pain for you to make this cut.

 

I hope and cross all my fingers that you can restore your work.

[Amalio]

Very , very good work.

[Trussben]

So all forward frames have been removed back to L aft, this is where I shall start building from as it's where the rising woods meet.

[Mike Y]

Soo happy to see you back in the shop! :)

[Trussben]

So on vacation for a few weeks and hope to get some good progress on Pegasus, wishing all on MSW happy holidays.

 

Ben

[Rustyj]

Same to you Ben. I'll be waiting impatiently for updates.

[Trussben]

New Keel is being drilled for its bolts on the Sherline mill using the sensitive drill attachment.

Gives nice accurate placement.

7/8" Bolts will be simulated using 24ga copper wire that will be blackened later with LOS.

 

Ben

[Trussben]

Thanks for the likes.

 

Fun was had today setting up the mill and drilling the hawse holes at the correct 10 degree angle as measured off the plans. They were only drilled out to 4" at the moment, the rest of the way will be done with a tapered reamer, but this has given the correct position and angle of the holes.

[dvm27]

Love it Ben! Is that the eight axis version of the mill?

[Trussben]

Hey Greg,

 

Yep, it's a 2000 DRO 8 axis. Learning it as I go.

 

Ben

[druxey]

Now, that is a novel way of drilling out the hawseholes! You mill-men!

[Trussben]

Thanks Druxey,

 

Funny but I got up to a drill bit equivalent to 4" at scale and it started to cut a little noisy with some vibration with the angle and wood grain, so I decided to quit there and will finish with pin taper reamers by hand, I really don't want to tear out the timbers and have to remake them!!

 

Ben

[dvm27]

Wise move, Ben. I had the same issue when trying to drill my hawse hawse in v.1. At least you have them properly located now and finish by hand. I had little success doing them the way David recommends in the book (adding them to each hawse timber before gluing them in place). That requires a level of precision above my pay grade!

 

Looking forward to next years continued progress.