Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the "likes" and the comments.

 

Sam,

Neither Is a big issue.  At 1/16", the dado looks pretty flat.  At 3/16", just a swipe of file takes care of it.  If you'll go back to this post:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=165891  all the notches in the keel and keelson were cut with the dado washer. 

 

I'm going to test David's method and stack some blades when I get a chance.  I'm curious now if that will work or fling things across the room.

 

 

I've been bit busy on the side with HMS Visa.  Ordered pedestals, belaying pins, and some other necessities.  Also order a copy of Le Venus from ANCRE for the rigging plans. 

[augie]

I wish that wood would come early.  Between HMS Visa and the House of Flying Daggers you're in a dangerous situation!

[mtaylor]

Quick update:  Most of the frames have been cut and shaped.  Once the keel is in place, the half frames at the bow will be shaped and installed.  I'm working on the keel, transom, and stem now.

 

[42rocker]

""Le Venus from ANCRE""

 

You will enjoy reviewing those plans

 

Later Tim

[michael mott]

The frames look great Mark.

 

Michael

[gjdale]

Nice start on the boat frames Mark.

[dgbot]

Good start Mark.  What kind of wood are you using for the frames?

David B

Edited March 24, 2014 by dgbot

[captainbob]

I like this method of building.  It's looking good.

 

Bob

[BANYAN]

Great progress Mark, the makings of a very fine boat indeed!

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Jim Lad]

Nice even framing, Mark - great stuff.

 

John

[mtaylor]

Thanks for a nice words and the "likes". 

 

David,

I'm using cherry for the frames, keel, stern post, and stem.  I'm planning on using boxwood for the planking.  The various fittings are sort of up in the air as I won't be adding the rudder or thwarts since there's a boat stowed inside of this one.  

 

Back to mumbling to myself and feeding the scrap box.

[dgbot]

Cherry is a great wood to work wlth.

[mtaylor]

Janos,

I have very mixed views on cherry.  I suspect it has to do with a particular piece.  Sometimes it's no to very little grain, and other times, very pronounced.  Same with the color.  I have some that's as pale as it was when I got it.  If it's fine grained and turns that deep rich red, I love it.  If not... meh.

 

This stuff seems to be working because I soaked it for 3 days as I had some other things to attend to. 

[dgbot]

I  have used cherry for many things.  Frames .fittings and planking.  I have rarely had any problems.  Of coarse you have to choose the piece that you use.

David B

[EdT]

Cherry is a beautiful wood in appearance and to work with.  For modeling it is best to choose pieces with straight grain.  This is not always easy because the grain is often variable.  This grain variation is very desirable when used on, for example, furniture.  However, the grain variation gives a mottled appearance on small model parts that is not usually desirable.  Swiss pear has the advantage of similar color but very straight uniform grain.  It is more expensive and less available than cherry.

 

Also the darker shade in cherry is heartwood and the lighter is sapwood.  The heartwood is the more desirable due to the color and physical properties.  The brittleness mentioned above is due to the grain variation that produces cross grain weakness on small pieces - strips.

 

Ed

Edited March 26, 2014 by EdT

[NAZGÛL]

Very nice! I'm impressed with both the high level off your work and the commitment you show.

 

/Matti

[src]

Mark, looks great. THose scrap boxes can be ravenous monsters at times cant they?

Sam

[NMBROOK]

Looking good Mark   Speaking from my own experience,the ship's boats are almost worthy of their own build log

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the comments.

 

The scrap box is indeed hungry lately.  I'm currently on keel #5 and I think I finally got it the way I want it.  Pics soon, I hope.

[michael mott]

 

The scrap box is indeed hungry lately.

One has to be stingy with food.

 

michael

[Sjors]

Not soon but right away those pictures Mark !!!!!!!!!

 

[texxn5]

Looks good Mark, nice to see your progress.

[popeye the sailor]

looking good Mark...I'm keenly watching the progress.

[BANYAN]

Thanks for the comments.

 

The scrap box is indeed hungry lately.  I'm currently on keel #5 and I think I finally got it the way I want it.  Pics soon, I hope.

Great news Mark - so this should be a 'masterpiece' then   

 

Good to see your application towards 'only the best' and not the 'that'll do' - this should then make up into a wonderful model.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[mtaylor]

I swear, my next ship is going to be Gaetan sized..... if I can figure out where to put it. 

 

Anyway, keel number 5 is just stuck in position and not glued up yet.  Once glued, I'll do the final 3 half-frames but I do have to work on the transom first.  That would be that small pile of planks in L-square.  I've cut the rest of my planking and it's in the pic.

 

 

Just another quickie side-topic.... here's a shot of the setup on my saw for cutting the planks.  I set the wood to the fingerboards, move the fence, and cut a plank.  Move the wood to the left and then the fence and rip another strip.  I do it backwards since I'm left handed.  The featherboard is locked down (in this case) to produce a 1/32" thick plank.  The wood I'm cutting it from is 1/8" thick boxwood.

 

[Jim Lad]

Nice to see the final keel in place, Mark.

 

I hope the guards are only off the saw for the photo!

 

John

[shipmodel]

Hi Mark -

 

Nice work on the boat.  The keel looks right.  Once you get the garboard and sheer strakes planked it will really take shape.

 

I am a bit confused about the sawing method.  It seems as if you are using the featherboard as the fence and the fence as your featherboard.  I would think that the inherent flexibility of the featherboard fingers will give you uneven plank thicknesses, depending on how firmly you push the wood against them before you set the fence for each cut.  If you have an accurate mini table saw (it looks like you have a Byrnes saw) you should have no trouble setting the fence to a 1/32" distance from the blade and then ripping off multiple identical planks without moving any part of the setup. 

 

Just another way to get the job done.  If your method works for you, go with it.

 

Following with interest, as always.

 

Dan

[Sjors]

Nice little one Mark   

 

Question, both, ship and saw machine, are hand made ?????

 

[mtaylor]

John,

The guard is always off....  I do have push sticks in abundance and I stand to the right of the saw and move the wood from left to right.  I don't want to be in the way of a kickback.    I hate to say it, but I'm scared as hell of this saw.  I had the guards on and darn near lost a finger when the wood kicked.  So, no guards, stand out of the way and use push sticks.

 

Don,

I wish this was the Jim Saw, but it's not.  With the Jim Saw, the aft end of the fence can be set such that there's more space at the rear of the blade than at the front.  So usually, I CA a block of wood to the left so the plank can peel off and not get chewed up by the back of the blade.  The main fence is just some mental security.  When I get some time, I'm going to rework the fence a bit so has a step just aft of the leading edge of the blade to do this and then use the feather board properly.  Or, hope something trashes the saw and I can justify buying the Jim Saw. 

[mtaylor]

Sjors,

 

Err... no.  The saw isn't handmade or maybe it was since it was made in China.