Alert by riverboat - FINISHED - Krick - 1/25th scale

[trippwj]

Aye, what they said! Glad to see her get underway, Frank.

[Blue Ensign]

Look forward to seeing this build evolve Frank.

 

She looks more schooner than cutter to my eye and a book you may find of interest is The Global Schooner (Origins, Develoment, Design, and Construction 1695 - 1845) by Karl Heinz Marquardt.

 

A nice book in its own right but one section includes American Revenue cutter (schooners) of the early 19th century,  and there is also useful information about masting and rigging sizes.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Scoot]

Gees Frank. Did you come up for air?

Nice job on "Supply". I've been watching.

I'm going to guess you enjoyed rigging so much,

you couldn't wait to start again. Hows every thing in sunny CA.?

 

Scoot

[NAZGÛL]

Hurry up so you can start the painting!

 

 

/Matti

[riverboat]

Well it's time for a little update...... I've installed the bulkhead supports and to be honest ,I really don't think they were necessary ,for a minute there, I thought I was a carpenter . the frames were really tight , and what happened was. it threw the keel off a little, so I removed the bow

and near the stern supports and that seemed to relax the keel enough to make it half way straight.MY advice to anyone contemplating doing this kit it would be to forget doing that. The deck fit  perfectly after removing those supports too. I have the deck installed, but I noticed the deck is not flush with some of the frames, You'll see what I'm talking about  when you come to that picture, I'll have a post there so anyone can comment on it. Thanks for looking in

Frank

 

 

 

Like I stated before , after all the supports were installed it kind of drew the keel a little out of line. The next

couple pictures show the sections I removed. I was all set to take them all out, but the removal of the few straighten things out, and the deck fell right in line with the bulkheads.

 

 

 

These next couple pictures show the deck attached. The one with the lines showing which frames don't

line up with the edge of the deck. would it be better to add some strip to the bulkheads so they flush up with the deck, or should the deck be  sanded so it's flush with the bulkheads ???

 

 

 

 

[mtaylor]

Frank,

 

Do the bulkhead frame ends get removed at some point?  It might be worthwhile to flesh them out to the outside unless they get removed.  I'm thinking the bulwarks have to attach to them, though and then they get thinned from the inside.

[aliluke]

Frank

I'd trust the bulkheads. Fair them for the hull planking and flush the deck to them when that fairing is done. That's my intuition - no experience with this model but very tempted by it. Nice lines and nice work by you so far (I'm sure that will continue too).

[patrickmil]

My comment prior to this editing was ignorant of what you're seeing. Have you thought about drawing a straight line on the underside of the false deck to make sure it matches up with the false keel?

Edited April 29, 2014 by patrickmil

[augie]

I keep looking at your photos Frank.  Is there any chance that your bulkhead former is dead straight along the keel but bowed a bit up at deck level?  Assuming that both the deck and bulkheads were cut right, that might offset the alignment.  It sounds like Mark is 'trusting' the deck while Alistair is trusting the bulkheads.  I think you need to draw a line in the sand and pick one.  Sorry if all I added was confusion.  Personally, I'd trust the bulkheads assuming that BF is dead straight all the way up.  I feel for you my friend.

[Guest Tim I.]

Just dropped in and got caught up on your log. The Alert is coming along nicely! Looking forward to seeing it develop.

 

- Tim

[riverboat]

Thanks: Mark, Alistair, Patrick, Augie, Tim for your input'

 

Mark.... The bulkhead tops are to be removed later on, but I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better taking them off at this point now when

nothing is in the way.

 

Alistair.....  that was my first thought too, I'll have to look this over real close.

 

Patrick...... didn't think about doing that Patrick, too late now, the deck is glued down

 

Augie..... Woe is Me .... I'm thinking bulkheads too , after I draw the line I'll let you know

 

Tim.....     Thanks for looking in, and feel free to add your comments ( good or bad) 

[augie]

There you go....problem solved by Dirk !!!!  Just don't build a banana .

[riverboat]

Thanks!! Dirk......"you made my day" :D

[popeye the sailor]

there is supposed to be a bit of curvature to the deck platform. I would sand the top of the frame work to this curvature.......if there are a couple at this point that shows more that what you should have, thin flat stock shims should take care of it. the bulwark posts seem to be rather thick with this kit.....I would fare the hull frame and either install the bulwark panels {if the kit has them}, or plank the bulwarks down to the deck line. then they can be thinned down, and the excess at the deck line can be hidden by the waterways or deck planking. the bottom line....just as the hull frame need to be fared for the planking to sit flush, the same is the case for the deck platform. I haven't built one yet that I didn't have to do this to....and yes, I have had to shim here and there.

[dgbot]

The keel and the bulkheads are the backbone and shape on this kit. Make sure that they line up properly with the plans. Check from the bottom up. Then look over the top where the false deck comes in. The curve you will see will be the camber and the sheer. The formers help to keep everything lined up.

David B

[riverboat]

Thanks again to everyone with all your reply's and to all the likes.

 

 

Popeye.......  I'm going to follow Dirk's and Alistair's advice and use the bulkheads as a guide and sand the deck to line up. After I fair

                    the frames up then I'll see if I need to add some thin shims to the frames. I'm finishing up the bow and stern  filler blocks,

                     a little more sanding on those, then I'll be able to star the fairing.

 

 

David.........   she has a nice sheer line and a slight camber .I 'm sure once I get the frames faired up things will fall into place.

 

Frank

[riverboat]

a little update:....... the hull has been faired up, and now I'm lining off the hull for the planking. I tried soaking and bending some reg. stock

planking, but it was almost impossible to make it lie flat on the curvature at the bow, so I decided to use Chucks tutorial on planking. His explanation of how do to it was right to the point . He was so good at explaining it that even I could understand it . I tried a sample spiled plank and it layed beautifully, so I ordered  some sheet bass and spruce, I'm waiting for that to come in then I'll begin the planking. For lining out the hull, I tried using art tape,Tamiya masking tape, blue tape, frog tape, and nothing would stick , so I ended up using string and reg masking tape to tack it down.

I ended up with four bands..... the first three are pretty even from bow to stern.... the fourth is the widest and sweeps up pretty much at the stern so it's going to take some creative planing there I'm showing a couple pictures of the bands, if they don't look right I'd appreciate

anyone's input. Right at the bow it measures 20mm, I could drop it to 25mm like the rest of the band.... that way I could use 5 planks without any tapering for the first 3 bands, or should I leave it alone. Any thoughts on this???? Thanks

 

Frank

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Littlebob]

Looks like you have a good start on this interesting kit, cutters do appear to be very popular on the forum.

[russ]

Frank:

You will enjoy planking like this. Once you see how it works and get used to doing it, you will not want to do it any other way. Have fun.

 

Russ

[riverboat]

Hi Robert, thanks for looking in, Yeah I really like his cutter, it'll be a fun build!!! Stay tuned !

Frank

Edited May 29, 2014 by riverboat

[riverboat]

Hey Thanks Russ for the encouragement, your build was certainly an inspiration for me to try this spiling method. If it comes out anywhere near yours I'll be a happy camper. Say, do you think the bands are OK ?? Thanks

 

Frank

Edited May 29, 2014 by riverboat

[russ]

Frank:

They look okay, but this is really a personal thing. Your eyes on the model and you have to be happy with how they look. One thing to remember is that making the distance between the strings even will not necessarily be the best approach. The strings should reflect natural, graceful lines with no abrupt curves or bumps that disrupt the lines.

 

The planking tends to narrow as you approach the bow. Aft of the midsection the planking widths will temporarily contract a bit and then fan out as you approach the stern, especially in the lower belt. This is a general statement and is not strictly accurate for all hulls.

 

Can you take a photo looking at the stern like the one you have looking at the bow? That might tell us something.

 

Russ

[riverboat]

OK ... I think I have of the stern

[riverboat]

O.K. Russ ck these out....

 

 

 

 

[russ]

Frank:

That looks good. There is going to be a good deal of twist in the sheer plank at the stern, as well as in the garboard plank at the bow. That is to be expected.

 

One thing you should do is to extend the line of the frames down the center keel to the keel. That will help when it comes time to lay out the butts of the planks.

 

Russ

[riverboat]

Russ.... do you mean run a line down the middle of each frame.... down to the bottom of the keel?

[russ]

Frank:

Yes, exactly.

 

Russ

[dgbot]

Frank,

 When you lay out for your planking if you use a thin strip of wood you will get a feel of the curves and bends in the hull.  This makes it easier to form a graceful look.  I also agree with Russ on running a line down the middle to help keep everything aligned.

David B

[riverboat]

A little update time as to what's going on ........ Well ,  I finally got started on the spiling process and I must say I really like it. The only real problem I ran into was finding the right pen that writes on the clear tape. Pencil did'nt work , so I ended up using a  Sharpie ultra fine , works

fairly good ( sometimes ) . This takes a little more time to do, but the end results are worth it. Here's a couple pictures showing the first couple planks at the bow.

 

this was the first plank set on the stbd. side

 

 

I don't know if you can see the tape laying across the frames, but it's there, you can't see where I traced the shape of the plank because the first pen I used was too light. but after tracing the shape, the whole tape was transfered to the basswood sheet and cut out with a sharp blade.Then a little shaping is done  to fit.

 

 

this shows the second plank set, ships curves came in real handy for drawing out planks shape, impossible to do without them (at least for me).

Well that's it for today, hoping to get a few more done tomorrow. Thanks for looking in.

 

Frank

[russ]

Frank:

I use a clear plastic ship's curve to draw the plank shapes when I spile.

 

So far it looks good. I would run that entire upper strake of planks before overlapping with the second strake planks. It will probably make it easier to keep the lines of the planking running smoothly. Also, run a plank on one side, and then its opposite number to the other side. Avoid running too many planks on one side. That could result in some distortion of the hull from one side to the other. It is something best avoided by planking the hull evenly from side to side.

 

Russ