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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype


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Hi Chuck,

 

I like your jdea to paint it. Then as we build our version we can fret about painting it or leaving it natural. :huh:

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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Looking great Chuck! I like the Surly scheme, then I can use redheart and dyed pear when I do mine.... There just isn't a good blue wood! :-)

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Hi Chuck.

Making very good progress and the stern looks spot on. I have a few issues with the stern on my cutter.

I vote for natural. Never liked paint on my models.

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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Paint or natural - it is going to look great.

 

I find the two alternative names very funny being exact opposites. By my dictionary:

Cheerful - Having a happy disposition, in good spirits.

Surly - Sullenly ill-tempered or rude.

 

Whatever scheme for paint or not you use, I guess you could choose your name by how well your build goes. I'd be calling yours "Cheerful" others, who build it, may have to go with "Surly" :D;)

Edited by aliluke

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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I would vote for the the Surly paint scheme, the red looks great to me.

John

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

future build: to finish Mary Rose

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8507-mary-rose-by-tarbrush-scale-172-1545/?hl=%2Bmary+%2Brose

 

 

completed builds:  Constructo Steam Launch Louise

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Hi Chuck

 

I vote for the black on the caprail , sheer  strip and natural wood on the transom. The blue makes it look "cheap" and small to me. As to red-to me it would just take away from the clean lines.

 

Keith from cold and windy Troutdale,Oregon

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Natural - the blue on the transom and stern is too much.

Just my two cents.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Completed Builds:

Pilot Boat Mary  (from Completed Gallery) (from MSW Build)

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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Natural is the safe way to go.  I think I am a bit more adventurous than that.   So I will go with the Surly color scheme.  It will be interesting to see a few more with different paint schemes should any of you decide to build her as well.  Thats the fun part of this hobby.

 

But who knows,  I could change my mind tomorrow.  :P

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Thats not entirely true....if everyone thought I was nuts or off-base I wouldnt have.  Based on the even mix of opinions though,  I feel comfortable that folks wont say "what was he thinking".   So black and red it is.....the comments are a huge help actually.  :)

 

I am hopefully going to get the fashion pieces made and installed today and then the final layer of wales.

 

Chuck

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Chuck,

 

I just joined this build wanted to thank you for sharing your thought process of developing a project.  I have had a huge mental block when it comes to faring the bow and I will try your method of beveling the rabbet after the bow frame and filler is fared.   I always went beserk trying to align the angles of two opposing planes of the rabbet and the bow filler.

 

As for color, I liked a dull blue, then again, the cutter, its English is it not?  So black would be more appropriate.

 

Scott

 

Current Builds:  Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration

                           Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED

                           Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY

Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch

                            Marine Models USF Essex

                            

 

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I was able to shape the fashion pieces today.  They are will be in one piece with the boom crutch added separately later.  The boom crutches wont be added until the cap rail is added way down the road.   For now I just left them extra long so I can file them back to where I want them. You can see in the photo how the bottom fashion piece was bent using heat.....no water or soaking.  The top one is the flat 1/16" thick piece which has not been bent yet.

 

Once these were glued on the model,   the second layer of the wales (two strakes) were added and painted.  I still have to paint them on the other side.  After thats done I will treenail above the wales.  That will be easier to do before I add the fancy molding along the sides of the hull per the plan.

 

Notice how the fashion piece covers the end grain of the planks on the stern transom.  When the stern is all done there shouldnt be any end-grain exposed for any of the planking.  The fashion piece and square tuck protect them from the elements.

 

fashion.jpg

 

walespainted.jpg

 

walespainted1.jpg

 

cheerfulhull.jpg

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She's looking pretty sharp Chuck. Besides the plans, is there any plan to market a kit version of this as well? If so, would it be on your site or MS or elsewhere?

 

Cheers :cheers:

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Thanks Chuck:

  The more I think about it, doing a low-key scratch-build would be a fun project. Somehow I missed that whole page while going over this build, but got it now.

 

Cheers :)

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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That ship is coming along nicely. I can picture you behind the monitor with the plan in view, picking a part, sending it over to laser saw - have it cut out and use it for the ship.

Marc

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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Thats exactly how its working...I have my club meeting tonight so no work getting done at all.   Plus I have to get some stuff ready for Thanksgiving at my place this year.   Yikes.

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Chuck,

 

I was reading your log about the Cheerful and I have seen one Dutch model that you thought it was a fisherman ship from around 1950.

I knew there was something wrong about it so I have search the internet.

I found this drawing and picture.

It's a beurtschip (like a Barge )

 

Sjors

 

post-48-0-79987400-1416949057.jpg

post-48-0-99171900-1416949309.jpg

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Well that is very interesting.    Thank you Sjors.  I have printed it and will stick the printout in the model so when I am ready to restore her I at least have a starting point.

 

Here is the model in question by the way.  I havent had time to give it a thorough researching yet.  That is a big help.  The name on the back is "Margareta" or "St. Margarethen"

 

Chuck

 

post-2-0-58831300-1412007320_thumb.jpg

 

post-2-0-26709600-1412007321_thumb.jpg

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Thanks.....  That is still the plan.  As soon as I complete the exterior planking with the square tuck and write the first few chapters of the monograph (which will be posted on my site as a free download)   the plans will be released.

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Been away a while Chuck - well a few days. Your latest work on the fashion pieces and wales just looks great - so precise. When you say you just use "heat" to gently curve the fashion piece, my I ask "heat" from what tool or thing?

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Thanks,

 

I used a hair dryer and slowly bent it to the desired shape while heating it up.   The hair dryer was on the highest the hottest setting.

 

Chuck

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Dear Chuck,

 

I'm sorry to say so, but I have the strong feeling that you have a bug in your windlass construction.

 

If I see it right, then you have made a hole in each board, one below the other. A nice circle around it.

 

I believe that this is wrong. - If you imagine all the material that would be missing, then the windlass would surely break when used.

 

The correct way can be seen on the photo of a contemporary model that some other guy posted in the context.

 

The holes in the windlass should be only in every second board, giving a chessboard pattern.

 

Best regards,

 

Herbert

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post-2-0-54581400-1412544828_thumb.jpg

Hi Herbert,

 

Per haps Chuck does understand, but I don't....

Do you mean that there shouldn't be three holes every second face, but alternating one and two holes?

 

Chuck's setup matches this one from the NMM-collections.

 

large.jpg

 

Jan

Edited by amateur
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Thanks...

 

No its correct....there was never a one size fits all for these things.   Some had alternating holes and others had them as I have designed it.  And as Jan points out,  there is the example above from the NMM.  I have also seen other contemporary models that show them like this too.

 

There was always some variation on the same.  The good news is...should you decide to build her,  you could absolutely change it to what you believe is correct.  That is why it wont be a kit but released as a scratch project.  

 

I am 100% confident that the Windlass is correctly designed and portrayed.  Not that there arent other configurations that would work as well.

 

Chuck

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