James H

56 minutes ago, Gaetan Bordeleau said:

Before, if I remember correctly, it was 2000, which is a good size for a monitor, now at 1500, it is less flexible. 

Very few people used 2000, so adding the fact that there are a lot of photos on this site, there was probably no reason to keep it at 2000.

Many of my pics are 2000. The system will adjust accordingly. 

17 hours ago, shipman said:

Buying ANYTHING transatlantic is a no no.

 

I was told by an insider at a main hub where customs are assessed in UK, is that just about everything from the US is held up for customs to get their £ out of you, while from anywhere else (including China and Japan), it's quite arbitrary. 

You can do max 1500 wide, although I tend to leave around 2000 and let the system adjust. 

As for data size, you can use anything from a few kb to a fee meg. Pretty flexible.

Following along 🍿

Another quick update to bring the hull to date with where I am. I have done loads of other stuff, but I'll keep this log in chronological order.

 

Onto planking. One untapped row, and then onto tapering. I split these lengths in half to show a beginner that they can do this if they wish. You really don't need to otherwise.

 

 

 

The inner bulwarks are now trimmed back to the stern timbers and then sanded flush to the stern board can be fitted. This is then sanded flush with outside of inner bulwarks (not shown in this log).

 

 

If you've followed any of these build logs or built a VM kit, you'll be familiar with how the keels are then faced with another layer of pear, creating a ready rebate for you to neatly plank up to. 

 

 

The outer stern board frame is temporarily clipped into position (NO glue!) so that I have the position to fit the pear lower counter. The counter is then sanded flush with the sides of the hull.

 

 

Now, the outer bulwarks can be glued into place, and then sanded flush with the stern fascia. 

 

 

One of the bits I like doing. The MDF bulkhead ears are now twisted on pliers and the remnants sanded flush with the deck.

 

 

Ranger comes with an engraved maple veneer deck. This is test fitted to the model and adjusted (if necessary) so it lied flat on the ply deck and across the camber. This is then glued into place and a 'few' clamps used to hold it down around the edged while it dries. These little 2 inch clamps are great for this. 

 

 

More next time. 

Adding the deck is easy as it bends enough to be able to slot it into the bulkhead ears and into the little slots at the base of them. Those lock the deck into place and with it lying flat across all bulkheads. 

 

 

Fairing took my only about 20 to 30 mins on Ranger. Nice and simple with no double-guessing anything.

 

The 2mm pear prow and keel are now glued into place. These can only plug in one way, so no mistakes can be made.

 

 

On Ranger, the inner, lower counter is maple veneer. This needs no soaking to fit the curves, and just wraps around the area as shown. In fact, there's NO need for any parts soaking on Ranger. She's a water-free zone during building.

 

 

The inner bulwarks are supplied in halves. These are nice and shallow and you'll find no tendency for them to veer away from the bulkheads, fore and aft. This is why Ranger is most definitely idea for a total beginner. I marked the bulwarks with the bulkhead positions so I could pre-drill some holes, ready for pinning to the bulkheads. Also remember NOT to glue to the model above deck level as those MDF ears will later be removed for the timberheads.

Fairing patterns are now added for the stern. Again, these are pre-bevelled, glue up against the keel, and are aligned with pegs.

 

 

 

The stern timbers are now added. There are three sets of these which are clearly identified (INNER, MIDDLE, OUTER) and they slot into the bulkheads as seen here.

 

To help brace the bulkheads, lock in alignment and create rigidity, two longitudinal beams are added. 

 

 

Bulkhead 7 (midships) is padded out with a part either side. This is there to help the modeller with the two-part inner bulwarks, and also aids the first layer of planking which can be split into sections to make it easier for the beginner. 

 

 

Slightly diluted glue is now brushed into the frames and then left to thoroughly dry. I quite like this approach. It doesn't compromise and strength in the frame, and caters well towards the many slots that the design has. 

 

 

The ply 'under-deck' is now to be added, noting that there is a top side to this!

Ranger was a Barking Fish Carrier of 52 tons, built in 1864 at Barking, and replaced the old well smacks like Saucy Jack. Fish carriers were always driven hard, and with such perishable cargo as fish, the minutes counted, and these cutters like Ranger could sail to windward faster than any other vessels then afloat. After the cargo had been landed at Billingsgate, the holds were packed with empty fishing boxes. One interesting feature of Ranger was that many of her cross section closely followed those of Saucy Jack, but the length of hull had been greatly increased. A sort of 'stretched' version of her. Length overall was 74 foot, with a beam of 16 foot, 6"

 

The kit
This is my sixth fishing boat for Vanguard Models, and the last one for the foreseeable future. It's been a 2yr ride to get to this point with the fisher series, peppered along the way with a few other little projects such as Flirt, Duchess, and Sphinx. Ranger is designed for the total beginner to the hobby as well as those who want to do something a little different and make it 'their own', so to speak. Out of all the fishers, I perhaps feel the curves on this are just right, and the inner bulwark depths, to count this as one of the easiest to fair and plank, if not the easiest of them all. 

 

The core of Ranger, like the others, is a combo of 2mm and 3mm MDF. The parts are a cinch to remove from the sheets.

 

 

There isn't too much pre-bevelling to do on Ranger, but the bevel lines are etched there for you, to make it easier. I always opt to use a Dremel to bevel this stuff, simply because it takes less time when I have deadlines. 

 

 

The bulkheads are now slotted onto the keel. The keel itself has numbers engraved per slot, identifying which bulkhead needs to be inserted. All this is done dry at this stage as glue will be painted into the skeleton later.

 

 

 

The sub deck is now slotted into position as shown. 

 

 

Both bow and stern have fairing patterns installed. These are for the box, now shown bevelled. You can see there's not too much work involved in pre-bevel. 

 

 

These are now glued into position up against the keel, but not the bulkheads at this stage. 

 

 

MDF alignment pegs are used to make sure that all it as it should be.

There's a few here: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product-category/model-figures/

19 minutes ago, Jim Rogers said:

Every time I post images I have problems. My solution: I gave  up and just quit posting photos. This is the ONLY site I have these issues.

If you have an issue with posting photos, please start another thread and tell us what happens. Only then can we try to look at that for you. 

However, I can tell you that there are zero problems at MSW in that regard, so that would be us helping you with your equipment. 

 

Recent problem fixed and topic locked.

1 hour ago, AJohnson said:

I Like the new look! 👍

 

45 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

I do NOT like the new look.

 

Yves

 

It is not a new look. Just change back to the theme you want at the bottom of the site page. 

 

Everything you see was here before. 

Ok, now appears to be fixed. 

 

I temporarily switched everyone to the other theme while I fixed the problem, so you can now switch back if you wish.

 

The core software had a security patch which needed adding, and even though the themes were supposed to be unaffected, Dimension was. I've now refreshed that theme and all looks ok from this side. 

Glad you started this one. 

 

The blocks are nice and easy to replace, thankfully. 

11 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

It’s ok because I don’t know a lodging from a knee from a carling, it’s. Amazing I can build a model at all 😂🤣

Most of the stuff I know about ship constructions comes from Chris.

 

He tells me what I need to do, and I have to ask what he means! That's how I'm learning! I now know a hanging knee from a lodging knee, from a carling etc. It' an education, I tell ya 😬🤓

Part 2: Building the hull interior:
Available for $327.00 from same link as previously posted:

 

Now you've built the jig, the many frames and decided how you will finally display your model (split or whole), it's time to fit out the interior. Like Chuck's Winchelsea, doing things this was does split up the cost for the modeller, so when you're happy with the work you've thus done, you can then think about getting this package. 

 

You're certainly not done with ply yet though. As your hull still languishes in the jig, this pack will give you the parts you need to ensure that it all stays where it should so the internals can be fitted. These are done with a series of adjustable parts which are fastened with screws, and hold those frames securely up against the inside jig slots. I've included some images from the manual so you can understand what I'm actually talking about.

 

 

 

The interior of Granado is to be fully appointed with all the cabins, stowage, ammunition store etc....exactly as you would wish to see with an open framed and potentially exploded-display model. More laser cut timber is included, as are a few more parts of CNC-routed parts.

 

A good quantity of strip wood is also included, all nicely selected and sharply cut:

 

Stove

CAF have supplied Granado's stove as a 3D print assembly with some photo etch parts to accompany. You will need to remove the supports from the interior hot water tanks and taps, but the brick faces themselves need just some minimal cleanup. 

 

Photo Etch
Just one sheet is included in this release, but there are plenty of parts to use. Again, the PE is cleanly produced with excellent definition and minimal gates to cut through to release the parts. Remember to use a good etching primer before you apply any paint to brass parts. Trust me, you'll be thankful for that tip!

 

 

Fittings

Just a few fittings here. We have screws for the internal jigs, some brass pins and also the shot for the mortar.

 

Plans and Manual

Another A4 manual is included in this release, and this one weighs in at 21 pages, inclusive of the part maps sheets. You will see here how much material is actually included in pre-cut form, such as the internal hull planking, which can be problematic for the average modeller....not that I suggest an average modeller attempts a project like this.

This last image shows what you will be left with when this package is complete.

 

 

 

 

And finally, some images which will show you what to expect when the hull starts to be kitted out in the next available package due fairly soon:

 

 

Conclusion
By no means a beginners model, and also not suitable for anyone who classes as intermediate. This really is aimed at those with a lot of nouse and the ability to forward think about 50 steps ahead, plus employ some critical thinking. When build up properly, this model should be an absolute show-stopper, and I reckon there's a good couple of years work involved if you want to get the very best from this kit. At around £500 so far, that actually represents some great value for money on a per hour basis too. Materials quality is excellent and the manuals look easy to understand. Tom is also easily contactable and always willing to help if you should find any problem. 

 

Watch out for the next instalment on this as soon as we can bring it to you.

 

Our sincere thanks to Tom at CAF Model for the sample shown in this article. To buy direct, click the link at the top of this article, and remember that you will need to add both packages (A &  to your cart if you wish to purchase at same time, so save some postage costs. 

 

 

 

1:48 HMS Granado
CAF Model
Available from CAF Model. Check article for pack prices

 

 

 

Lieutenant Thomas Elliot commissioned Granado in July 1742 as a sloop for the Channel and North Sea. HMS Granado was launched at Harwich in 1742, during the War of the Austrian Succession as a sloop-of-war. During this war she captured a French privateer. During the Seven Years' War she served both as a sloop and as a bomb vessel and participated in naval operations off the coast of France and in the West Indies.

Granado was paid off in June 1763. She was surveyed on 6 July. The "Principal Officers and Commissioners of His Majesty's Navy" first offered Granado for sale at Woolwich on 23 August. She sold on 30 August at Portsmouth for £575.When the Navy sold her in 1763, she became the mercantile Prince Frederick. Around 1775 she became the northern fisheries whaler, Prudence. Around 1781 she became a government transport and was wrecked on 20 May 1782 on the coast of India.

 

The kit:
CAF have currently released their 1:48 HMS Granado (full hull kit) in two packs, and this first part of the review will look at Pack #1, comprising of TWO boxes of parts. The price for Pack #1 is $327.00USD, as is Pack 2 which consists of a single box. I'll look at that set in the second half of this article. There will be a Pack #3 released in the near future, which will fit this model out to the status of an Admiralty model, with guns on deck and all the various other features we would expect to see, such as the mortars themselves. 

 

 

HMS Granado Pack #1

Pack # contains everything you need to build the keel and hull framing for this famous bomb vessel. That means there is no interior at this stage, but don't think that you won't get a whole lot of timber. With all the boxes in this kit, once those parts are removed from their boxes, I simply find that I can't get them to fit back in again. When CAF originally sent this kit to us for review, a number of parts sheets had particularly bad scorch marks on the reverse. I highlighted this to Tom, and he was aware of the issue with a number of those that had shipped to customers, and he quickly replaced those and sent them out for this article. I also have to say that HMS Granado took about a week to reach the UK, from China. As with everything from CAF, the shipping package is totally robust, wrapped in thick corrugated card and sealed with about 1000 miles of tape! That would present a delicious headache for any custom's department! Nonetheless, it arrived intact. What you get in this pack will create the CAD image you see above. Oh, and of course, you also receive a large plywood jig into which you will add the many frames to your keel, once built. Remember, this model will not feature a bowsprit when complete, as is the nature of such models, so even though this is 1:48, you may be pleased to know that the full-length if Granado is actually only 670mm! Plus you don't have masts and spars to worry about. For displaying, she'll be far easier than most model ships. 

 

There is actually something else for you to consider with this model. You can either build her as a complete hull, or you can build her split into an upper and lower section, exactly like the well-known model at the UK's National Maritime Museum. Here you see what I mean:

 

The plans make provision for all frames and keel to be split at the appropriate places, and you will see this in the instruction images further on in this article. I do feel that to do this presents some serious challenges and that is on top of this model only being suitable for very experienced builders. BUT.....if you want that challenge, then it's there for you. Inside the boxes, all parts are amazingly well packaged so that they fit the box, and they are also all shrink wrapped. As the shrink wrap is nice and tight, it's worth keeping the parts in that for a while after you receive the model so that the timber can normalise and risk of any warp is reduced when you open the parts. All part sheets are engraved with the sheet number, and you must then refer to the manuals for the part identification. This helps keep the sheets compact and the numbers of visible part faces.

 

Timber-wise, the kit is made up of both laser cut and engraved parts, plus a good number of CNC cut parts sheets which feature slot milling on both sides, so that all you need to do is square of any joint corners which will inevitably be slightly rounded. A small number of parts are also CNC machined to shape, so you just need to clean them up. We've seen this on such kits before, and it saves the modeller a lot of guesswork in trying to think in 3D.

 

I did say these packs were full of timber, and they are also quite heavy.

The timber varies only very slightly in colour on the occasional sheet, but the quality of the wood is excellent, with no natural problems with grain banding or knots to be seen anywhere. As I said, all sheets are also perfectly flat. I'm not quite sure what the timber is for these sheets, but the grain is very tight and not particularly visible, which is a bonus for modelling in the scales we use. The timber sheets in the first box are numbered as sets, i.e. 1A, 1B, 1C, 2A, 2B, 2C etc. and the sets are of different thicknesses. You can also see on the sheets, just how fine the laser cutting is, and one image showing the reverse of one sheet so you can see the minimal scorch. In fact, that sheet is probably the worst of them all, so it's not bad at all! Many parts sheets are also engraved with bevelling lines, taking a lot of the hard guess work out of things. 

You can also see from that last image that not only is that scorch on this (the worst sheet!) isn't very bad, but CAF has also turned the sheets over to create engraved bevelling lines on the reverse. 

 

Box Number 2 of 2

All parts in these boxes have already been unwrapped so I could ensure everything was ok to proceed with this article. This larger box contains the many plywood parts for the hull jog, providing an accurate way to install and align the ribs to the keel. The jig itself will also serve to work into Part #2 of the kit set, when you come to fit out the hull interior. Here is an idea of what the jig will look like when complete:

Here are the pictures of the cradle parts:

This is a project in its own right. Even though everything is tabbed, proceed nice and slowly and use a metal square to make sure everything is upright and 90 degrees to adjacent parts. Ply quality is also very good with no warping on my same, and all laser cutting being nice and fine. There are also more timber parts for hull construction, provided as CNC-routed parts. Also a little strip material too.

Manual and plans

The manual for this set is an A4 production of 26 pages, incorporating the aforementioned part maps for part ID. The construction side of the manual is created from a series of CAD illustrations, shown in colour for ease of use, and with some good English notation. The manual clearly shows how to proceed with building the model as a split hull too, but I think to try and make this a removable section is a little too optimistic due to all those frames needing to key into each other simultaneously. Here are some images from the manual:

 

 

And as for the included drawings, these show the hull elevations as shown below, and also the completed frames. I won't show the latter as it could be used as a copy to produce parts without buying the kit. It does show various lines in different colours, to help you align and identify the various frame sections. 

 

To give you a general idea of how the hull in constructed within the jig, here are some images from CAF:

 

I will very shortly post the next box series #2 in this topic. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have a delayed HMS Victory prototype by Amati, and I'm currently building Vanguard Models' Ranger fisher. 

 

Ranger will be done soon, then it's onto Indefatigable. 

 

There is a Mary Rose lurking in the background, and Panart's 'Posto di combattimento', but those are ancient projects now, so don't really count until I ever decide to resurrect them. MK's AVOS is also there, and that will be done as soon as time permits.

Those look pretty. One reminds me of the WW1 dreadnoughts. 

3 hours ago, puckotred said:

Well, I slept on it and decided I will start a build log within a couple of days.... Just because you asked so nicely James... 😋

You know it makes sense 🤣

4 hours ago, Rik Thistle said:

Are you actually planning to do a build of this Bismark or was this a Review only?.... with all the builds you have going on I can guess the answer.

 

At the moment, my shipyard is rammed with stuff I either need to do, or will soon need to do. Bismarck could be several years away yet 😂

1:200 German Battleship Bismarck

Amati

Catalogue # 1614
Available from Amati for €499.51

 

 

History
Bismarck was the first of two Bismarck-class battleships built for Nazi Germany's Kriegsmarine. Named after Chancellor Otto von Bismarck, the ship was laid down at the Blohm & Voss shipyard in Hamburg in July 1936 and launched in February 1939. Work was completed in August 1940, when she was commissioned into the German fleet. Bismarck and her sister ship Tirpitz were the largest battleships ever built by Germany, and two of the largest built by any European power. In the course of the warship's eight-month career under her sole commanding officer, Captain Ernst Lindemann, Bismarck conducted only one offensive operation, lasting 8 days in May 1941, codenamed Rheinübung. The ship, along with the heavy cruiser Prinz Eugen, was to break into the Atlantic Ocean and raid Allied shipping from North America to Great Britain. The two ships were detected several times off Scandinavia, and British naval units were deployed to block their route. At the Battle of the Denmark Strait, the battlecruiser HMS Hood initially engaged Prinz Eugen, probably by mistake, while HMS Prince of Wales engaged Bismarck. In the ensuing battle Hood was destroyed by the combined fire of Bismarck and Prinz Eugen, which then damaged Prince of Wales and forced her retreat. Bismarck suffered sufficient damage from three hits by Prince of Wales to force an end to the raiding mission.

 

The destruction of Hood spurred a relentless pursuit by the Royal Navy involving dozens of warships. Two days later, heading for occupied France to effect repairs, Bismarck was attacked by 16 Fairey Swordfish biplane torpedo bombers from the aircraft carrier HMS Ark Royal; one scored a hit that rendered the battleship's steering gear inoperable. In her final battle the following morning, the already-crippled Bismarck was engaged by two British battleships and two heavy cruisers and sustained incapacitating damage and heavy loss of life. The ship was scuttled to prevent her being boarded by the British, and to allow the ship to be abandoned so as to limit further casualties. Most experts agree that the battle damage would have caused her to sink eventually. The wreck was located in June 1989 by Robert Ballard and has since been further surveyed by several other expeditions. A detailed underwater survey of the wreck in 2002 showed that the sustained close-range shelling was largely ineffective in the effort to sink the ship, the many torpedoes launched at Bismarck were also almost completely ineffective, and the plating of the armour deck was also found to be virtually intact.

 

The kit

 

There are other 1:200 Bismarck kits on the market, and Amati themselves worked with Hachette a number of years ago on a 2007 partwork release of this ship. This was subsequently re-released by DeAgostini but is now unavailable. Last year, Amati revisited the Bismarck themselves and released a reworked kit, which from what I believe, is a more accurate and certainly more detailed kit. I know Amati went to great pains to get this right and used numerous contemporary sources for their information. In this release, Bismarck is depicted in her final incarnation with her fore and aft deck swastikas painted over, and the superstructure disruptive camouflage obliterated. The only remnants of this are on the upper hull sides.

 

As far as model ships go, this one is huge! In fact, the completed length is 127cm, so you will need some space to display her. Unlike a sail ship with her tail masts and broad yards, Bismarck doesn’t have the additional height and weight to encumber her. A large model will also come in a large box, and that’s definitely the case with this one. Bismarck uses the same size box as the other large Amati releases, such as HMS Vanguard, HMS Revenge, Fifie, and the recent Orient Express Sleeping Car kit. As a guide to weight, the packing carton did give the figure of 10kg (22lbs), so that’s a reasonable figure to use. The box work for Bismarck is quite striking and depicts some views of the finished model. I have included these and other images of the finished studio model in this article. There are a couple of typos on the box side, but Amati are aware and will correct this in the next print run. The glossy lid itself is just a box cover, as when this is removed, the actual kit box is a complete one with a tabbed lid, making the whole thing very sturdy.

Bismarck is based around a traditionally planked hull, on a very conventional timber framework. Where Bismarck’s hull may cause some consternation with planking, 3D parts are included which the modeller needs to blend into a finally sanded and shaped hull. Surface preparation will be one of the most important things when it comes to building this model, as you won’t want any planking strakes to be seen when painted. The whole hull will need sanding, filling, re-sanding, re-filling, until you have a surface like glass. Sealing the hull could also help, as could using glass resin and thin glass cloth. That will very much depend on your level of experience. 

 

If you wanted to build this model for RC, then it’s also possible as the upper deck is purposely left to be removed, although that’s as far as it goes. Any internal changes will need to be done by the modeller, but I don’t think this would be too difficult. 

 

There are definitely a lot of materials packed into this box. 

 

• SIXTEEEN sheets of timber parts
• FIFTEEN laser-engraved deck sections
• FOURTEEN sheets of photo-etched parts in various thicknesses
• TWO large bundles of almost 140 planks for first and second layers
• Pack of dowels and metal rod
• Numerous 3D parts for tricky hull areas
• Many injection moulded sprues with superstructure details
• Brass chains
• Decorative nameplate/wooden plinth
• TWO full colour manuals with over 1000 constructional stages
• SIX parts plan sheets for part maps
• Large plan sheet of actual ship

 

 

Here’s a look at the kit contents.

 

Three boxes of injection mouldings

 

 

 

 

Two boxes of assorted fittings

 

 

 

 

Timber sheets

 

 

Timber and metal strip

 

Photo Etch

 

 

Laser engraved decks

 

 

Wooden plinth for photo etch nameplate

 

 

 

 

Instructions and plans

Two full colour manuals are provided for this kit. The first manual alone is 112 pages (landscape format) and has a staggering 612 constructional stages! That does seem quite daunting, but the stages re broken down in such a way that many of these stages will relate to individual areas, such as a single superstructure part, for example, and show the additional parts a few at a time. The first manual will take the builder from the basic skeleton of Bismarck, all the way through to a completed hull with superstructures underway. Manual #2 is over 90 pages, with another 560 stages. The second manual also contains a comprehensive parts list which you really should get into the habit of checking through with any kit you buy, let alone an investment the size of Bismarck! 

Six folded parts maps are also included. These are just a paper facsimile of the timber elements in your kit, allowing the modeller to perhaps find things more easily instead of manhandling all your sheets. You will also find the part reference numbers on those sheets, as they are not engraved onto the timber as some manufacturers choose to do. 

A single, rolled-up plan is included, and this simply shows the Bismarck in several elevations, to help you further with your model, despite everything being covered real well in the manuals.

Amati also have a series of online build articles for Bismarck, and they are well worth looking at: https://www.amatimodel.com/?s=bismarck&lang=it

 

 

 

Decals
Only a few decals are included in this kit, and those are for the Arado plane and the underwater sound location system. They are all superbly printed and with nice, thin inks. 

 

 

Templates

This kit comes with a series of templates that are led against the hull and used for tracing and cutting out sections for inlays, painting etc.

 

 

Conclusion
Amati are a name which many know to be a trusted manufacturer of high quality and accurate kits. This kit represents another angle to the old style of construction, melding those traditional elements with photo-etch components which are a major, integral part of this build, plus numerous 3D parts which remove some areas which would otherwise be tricky to plank. Without a doubt, this kit is a major undertaking to the prospective builder, and despite the 3D parts, the sheer quantity of etch means that you will need some patience and prerequisite skills in dealing with that medium. Bismarck is a multimedia kit which I feel is roundly aimed at a specific customer-base which is used to POB style construction, but perhaps not exclusively so. If you think a plastic kit with a fully injection-moulded hull sort of takes some of the fun away, then this could well be for you.  I think that Bismarck is also very well priced for the size of this model, and the work involved. In the UK, Bismarck retails for around £490. All models this size have a large initial outlay, but the sheer pleasure and time involved in building them will always even itself out. Make sure you have a strong table for this kit.

 

Our sincere thanks to Amati for the sample seen in this review. To purchase directly (if in Italy), click the link at top of article. All other countries, check your local Amati distributor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

@puckotred I'd love to see a build log if you can do one?

1 minute ago, stuglo said:

In my last few posts, most of the pictures appear "sideways". It doesn't happen elsewhere. I've tried turning before loading to no effect. Perhaps coincidence, but  a few weeks ago, I had difficulties uploading certain pictures. Nothing in my hard or software has changed. Any ideas apart from looking "askance".

 

Not really. All the answers you need for making sure orientation is correct, is already posted in here. 

2 minutes ago, Artesania Latina said:

Leds work directly at 3 volts, no resistors needed!

 

Perfect, many thanks (and for video!).

LED Lighting Set
Artesania Latina
Catalogue # 27590
Available from Artesania Latina for €20.65

 

 

If you have a hankering for fitting out your model with LEDs, then this set contains just what you need. AL's site states this:

Quote

The set includes 10 candle-effect LED, 4 continuous lighting LED, a battery holder for two AAA batteries and another for a button cell, a switch, 8 meters of red and black wire, half a meter of heat-shrinkable sleeve and one meter of tin. Can be used in other DIY and craft projects too!

All LED lights are yellow, 3 mm long and operate at 3 volts. Feel free to light up your models or other projects with this fantastic LED special effects set!

 

The LEDs are quite small, but not the so-called 'grain of rice' ones commonly seen.

 

You also get a very generous amount of wire on both black and red, and more solder than you will ever need to wire up a large model.

 

Two power sources are included. One of these is a regular battery pack, seen here with a separate switch and a nice quantity of heat shrink sleeve.

 

 

A coin battery pack is seen here with a built-in switch. This is actually shown for use in their HMS Endeavour kit, hidden in the stand to illuminate the hollow name box area.

 

A nice touch. New AL kits also contain holes for the wires to run, and installation is shown in the manuals. A generous amount of solder is also included. This is tin solder due to the problems that now exist with regulations in obtaining lead solder (which I preferred). 

 

 

Strangely enough, no instructions are supplied with this, so I'm unsure whether the LEDs need a ballast resistor fitting to them. 

 

 

My thanks to Artesania Latina for the sample shown here. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article. You may also be able to buy this set from your favourite hobby retailer.