James H

I'm hoping to make an update on Monday with a completed hull, fingers crossed.

3 minutes ago, Justin P. said:

I agree with what everyone has said.   @Chuck has a good explanation of his process in one of his many published tutorials and build logs - of which there are too many for me to dig through at the moment to find, but the essence is to thin out your paint and use many layers.  

 

My personal process is to first make sure I have a well sanded and sealed surface, and then to use a thin wash, almost 1:1 paint/water.   I sand with fine sandpaper between each coat and apply until the color saturates to the desired level.   

 

I have used airbrushes in the past and do like their results, but find the apparatus and additional setup to be cumbersome and annoying.   

Yup. 

 

My basic formula is a 50:50 paint to thinners. If enamel, I think a little more.

On 5/26/2021 at 9:09 AM, georgeband said:

Personally I do not much like an airbrush finish which to me looks speckled and toy-like, but an airbrush can achieve things which a brush cannot, and vice versa. 

 

 

Here's my speckled and toy-like airbrush result  

 

To be honest, if that's what you're getting or seen, it's because the paint isn't being thinned enough. 

I work almost exclusively in acrylics now, and this Typhoon was done entirely in acrylic.

That's looking real good. 

 

No probs so far?

I'm always a sucker for the hard way, so for me, I'd carve it out and finish with some sandpaper wrapped around a steel rule.

Machine à curer les ports (A Harbour Dredge)
English edition
Written and prepared by Gérard Delacroix
Published and available from Ancre for €59,00 (with 1:36 plans)

 

It’s ok having harbours, but over time, if not maintained, they’ll silt up and become unusable. Yes, they need to be dredged! It’s not the most glamourous task nor are the vessels which perform this vital function, generally thought of as subjects for the modeller’s bench. That’s why it’s great to see a title (monograph) which does look at a dredger in great detail and also furnishes us with a set of 1:36 plans so that the keen and able modeller can have a go at recreating one of these workhorses in miniature. 

Ancre’s title is nicely presented in a format slightly larger than A4, and as a simple folder with high grade satin, heavyweight paper. Sewn spine

 

In Ancre’s words:

“Ever since man created harbours, he was faced with the problem of their maintenance. To this end, he created a rather primitive machine, that in the end was fairly practical and already modern, since it has existed for three centuries without really evolving. The harbour dredge was only removed from ship basins with the arrival of steam and chain dredges.

 

All along its lengthy existence, it maintained the kingdom's harbours so that the “Great Navy” could be maintained and resupplied in the best of conditions.”

 

Details of this monograph:

The work consists as a 72-page booklet which contains the description and the operation of the dredger as well as commentaries on the ten plates of drawings and on the 55 photos of a finished model. The plates are at the 1:36 scale and show every piece of the framework.

 

24 x 31 cm format, booklet and plans contained in an envelope with flaps, adorned with an illustration from one of the plates of Belidor's work.

 

Booklet:

• Harbour dredges, history
• Auxiliary boats
• Description of a dredge
• Operation of the machine
• Commentaries on the ten plates of the monograph
• Ironwork – Paintwork
• Timber scantlings
• Photos of a 1/36 scale model by B. Rimlinger

 

List of the 1/36-scale plates

1. Schematic plan of the hull
2. Drawings of the frames
3. Construction of the hull
4. Deck layout and lengthwise section
5. Detail of the upperworks
6. Outside view of the hull and fittings
7. Cross-sections
8. Detail of fittings
9. Overhead view
10. Overall elevation

PLATES (Sample)

 

Whilst 1:24 plans are also now available, the supplied 1:36 will help you build a model of these dimensions:

 

• Length: 57cm
• Width: 23cm
• Height: 21cm

 

This pack, like any monograph, is intended to help the builder recreate an authentic replica of the subject at hand, with every detail shown on the ten plates (plans), including profiles, formers/bulkheads, dredge mechanism etc. All drawings are presented as fine-line and with a wonderful clarity. They are, of course, designed so you can take your dimensions directly from them. The dredger itself is a flat-bottomed vessel and doesn’t conform to the regular concept of building a ship. That it itself will make this a relatively easy project, and one that will prove to be a nice diversion from what will usually sit on your workbench.

 

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, so they say, and the 72-page book shows many photos of this subject completed as a model. A number of full-colour plates in this book show the dredger from many angles which should provide inspiration enough for you to dip your toe into the murky harbour waters.

 

The book itself excels in content with history thrown into the mix, as well as the technological challenges on a type of vessel which had served, until relatively recently, for a number of centuries. The book is also illustrated with more photos and drawings in black and white.

 

Conclusion
Whether a collector or a builder, this is a really nice title to have in your collection, and doubtless will be quite different to other monographs you may have. M. Delacriox  has certainly taken a topic I would never have thought was of any interest and actually created an informative and readable tome, plus the drawings to build what is surely going to be one of the most unusual models in your collection. 

 

My sincere thanks to Ancre for the book reviewed here at Model Ship World. To buy directly, click the link at the top of this article.

 

 

Here's a couple I did on my phone late last night. 

 

12 minutes ago, Suzdal said:

No it doesn't make you strange but I believe a way should be made to make it visible.

 

Richard

You can see some of that stuff through the deck cutouts, but not like an open deck ship such as Flirt.

As I'm about to fit out the upper deck shortly, here's an update on progress so far.

 

Over the last week, I've concentrated on getting the quarterdeck and forecastle beams in place, plus the decks. All beams are lettered to ID them, along with the timber they sit onto. All you might have to do is bevel an occasional end to get it to conform to hull shape. Along with the deck beams on quarterdeck, I've also add the optional hanging knees. These won't be seen too easily, but I've installed them for the sake of the manual.

 

 

 

All the beams are now fitted into place, along with the various carlings.

 

 

Before fitting any deck, the beams and carlings are also added to the forecastle area. Note the anchor hawse that's now added and tied back inside the bow. After the beams are fitted, the MDF ears from above deck level, are removed.

 

 

A drill bit is now wound with some medium grit paper and hand spun into the bowsprit hole, shaping this passage on the way down to the support which is plugged into the gun deck. This was a nice easy job due to the shape of parts and various cutouts. The 8mm dowel is then test fitted.

 

 

Before I can lay the forecastle deck, the fore jeer bitts need to be installed. Again, this is a simply task. I only glue these in at deck point so I have some play in the vertical posts.

 

 

The deck is supplied as 0.8mm maple veneer, laster etched. There is a ply part supplied as an alternative if you want to plank this yourself, but you'll need to source your own strip. Before the deck is glued, it's test fitted and sanded to make sure of an exact fit.

 

 

Inner bulwarks are now added. First the 1.5mm ones that butt up against the MDF bow former, then the outer 0.6 ones that run full length.

 

 

 

A sanding stick is then used to level up the tops of the bulwarks. Tape is laid down to protect the engraved deck and reduce any dust getting into the hull.

 

 

Now it's the turn of the quarterdeck to be fitted. Note that the beams are sanded of char where they can be seen through the deck cutouts etc.

 

 

The shallow bulwarks make the decks easy to 'pin' down around the edge using small clamps. Again, a sanding stick is used to level up the bulwark tops so the gunwales will be horizontal.

 

 

 

Bulwarks now fitted...

 

 

Seems such a shame to cover over so much of the detail, but now's time to cover yet more with the gangways. These are made from a layer of 0.8mm maple ply, with an underside in 0.6mm pear.

 

 

The gangway is temporarily added to model and the position of the adjoining gunwale is marked at each end. The gunwale is then sat over the gangway and then an edge drawn along the gangway. That area, which will differ slightly on different builds, is then removed from the gangway so the gunwale will recess into it.

 

 

All of the gangway knees are now painted and installed.

 

 

Then the gangways can be fitted. I use a small weight in the centre of the gangways to hold them into the gentle curve they need along the top of the knees.

 

 

Bulwark cleats are now added, as well as the stern knees. Before the stern knees are fitted, a 0.6mm drill is used to drill through two laser cut holes, to the outside stern. These are for mounting the lanterns. The knees will then cover the internal holes you drilled through.

 

 

 

And for the time being, this is where I'm at. My apologies for the lighting on this photo. I'll be retaking this one tonight. 

 

 

 

 

 

Those look beautiful. The box looks slightly paler.

That's nice looking work, David.

 

Looks like those bevels are pitched just right too. So many slots on that framework and it all fits real nice. Superb job!

15 hours ago, mtaylor said:

This is the "help needed" area.  

Correct, but only as far as forum usage goes. 

This area isn't for model-related questions. 

Definitely watching  

The Amati rope I have for Victory is actually very good. It's fuzz-free, a good colour and not too stiff.

15 minutes ago, Mike_H said:

Aha - and he has shown a photograph with an entirely sensible explanation.  But why did/does she have only 3 (more) per side?

 

Mike

Those ports are in the cabin areas, so lidded.

 

 

8 minutes ago, Gregory said:

The gun port outside the forecastle and the quarterdeck are on the weather deck.  Port lids would serve no purpose..

That's the way I see it too.

8 hours ago, Mike_H said:

But a question: the closed gun ports are obviously shown with port lids (or they wouldn’t be closed).  Why are there no port lids on the open ports?

 

Those will be added when the quarterdeck beams and deck itself is installed. I try to limit the number of fragile protrusions when some main hull construction work is still ongoing.

 

But, here are the lids:

 

6 minutes ago, Mercator said:

Gorgeous and beautifully engineered kit. Being new to the hobby (wood models) only two "simple" kits done, I will try my skills at one of the fishing boats first. Maybe both of them. The Sphinx would be the pinnacle of my modeling endeavor. Love the inclusion of PE parts having a lot of practice using it with styrene models.

 

 

 

This kit is designed so if you have a couple of successful builds under your belt, then you can get a very good result with this. The fishers are great kits though and I definitely recommend trying one. 

11 minutes ago, ObviousNewbie said:

Verrrrry interested in this, kit quality seems exceptional. Just a bit concerned with import duties to the EU😕

You'd have possible import duties from anything outside the EU though.  

Ok, I promised you an update.

 

I've been working on this pretty intensively over the last couple of weeks so Chris has some pictures for his Model boats magazine advert. When that happens, you know things aren't too far away. I'm thinking this will be an August release, or late July at the earliest. 

 

On with the show.

 

The next thing to do was add the frieze work and embellishments. The stern resin decoration was now fitted along with the rest of the stern decor. The closed bow and stern gun ports also had their ironwork and rig added. 

 

 

 

One task that is never my favourite is adding the chainplates, but these are quite easy and a breeze to fit.

 

 

 

 

A little ironwork now on the deck and inner bulwarks.

 

 

I actually made up the bulkhead screens quite a while ago, but now they were finished and fitted. Acrylic glazing was added using acrylic varnish to glue into position. On top of these went the window frame parts. Handles and hinges are also fitted. Each screen only needed a quick lick with a sanding stick to enable it to fit into place in the deck slots.

 

 

And with those in place, this is what we now have...

 

 

Real early on the build, I made a whole raft of deck fittings in between jobs such as building the frame, fairing, planking etc. This is where spending that time really paid off in pushing this project towards completion. The pictures you see now will miss out lots of stuff showing the individual elements being made, but you'll get the idea. You'll see the deck gradually build up into something a lot busier.

 

First, the coamings for the grates.

 

 

Then fitting the stairs in...

 

 

 

Sphinx is fitted with a chain pump system, and here you see aft stanchions for that in place, along with the main jeer bitts.

 

 

Then it's the turn of the two chain pumps to be installed.

 

 

Followed by the main topsail sheet bitts and gallows...

 

 

 

Then the forward chain pump handle stanchions are glued into position. 

 

 

 

Of course, we need a stove for all souls on board, so here's a brand spanking new one, with ornate brick surround.

 

 

 

Aft and fore riding bitts are installed, as well as the bowsprit support and the galley doors...

 

 

 

The chain pump handles are supplied as photo-etch parts, already shaped so there's no need to bend these into the awkward shapes needed. Each side is in two parts and dead easy to install. These are then painted black. The lower capstan is also fitted.

 

 

 

And lastly, it's the turn of the cannon. These really give a sense of how Sphinx will look when complete. 

 

 

 

And now, some extra photos showing the overall hull and details for you.

3 hours ago, Stephen schultz said:

Hi James,

 

The ship is looking spectacular.  Your craftsmanship is fabulous and a real joy to watch unfold.

 

I look forward to seeing your progress.

 

Thank you for sharing.

 

Stephen

Hi Stephen,

 

Thanks for your kind words. I do promise another update later today, and this will be a major one. 😁

 

2 hours ago, Brucealanevans said:

Rats!

Couldn’t resist. Ordered this kit. 

Nice one! I hope you'll log it here.

 

I have two more packs here to build and post but just working on Sphinx at moment. 

Very neat! You should be real proud of that 🥰

Just upload all your images at once.

 

As you are typing your text and want to insert a photo, just click on it from the uploaded library images below your post. 

This one is moving along quickly. You're putting me to shame.

Plastikote white aerosol. 

 

Check my build logs.