-
Posts
4,519 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Blue Ensign
-
A neat solution Timmo, nicely executed. Cheers, B.E.
- 366 replies
-
- granado
- caldercraft
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Once you've sussed out the technique as you seem to have done Andy, it's just a matter of trial and error, frustrating as that may be. Not looking forward to those fiddly bits either. B.E.
- 1,148 replies
-
Hi hamilton I have to add my name to the list of those who think the bare twig look does not work. Scale link do a range of foliage frets which may work better, but before you give up and leave it plain, try painting a strip of paper of the required width with a series of scrolls and say acanthus leaves, you may surprise yourself. The book artwork gives a lead. Cheers, B.E.
-
Thanks Jason, with a waterline setting and added sails it does give a very different look to a model. Thanks Michael it was my first attempt at water, and paper sails for that matter, there was no other option than to cover her but it doesn't detract too much from the view. Cheers, B.E.
- 126 replies
-
- le superbe
- heller
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Neat job on those bijou carronades Richard I bet you're glad that bits over. I agree about the name colour, white just seems too stark for the model. Nice progress. Cheers, B.E.
-
Looks a good result Jason, those pre- drilled bowsprit caps are a pain because as you say the cap should be in a vertical plane when viewed from the side and the hole for the jibboom needs to be angled to suit the stive of the bowsprit. To make it so the hole becomes too big. An additional problem on Pegasus was that there was no provision on the starboard side to take the Jack staff; I got around the problem by scratching a new cap and fixing angled inserts in the vice to give the correct stive for the hole before drilling. Enjoy your trip back home. Cheers, B.E.
- 800 replies
-
- snake
- caldercraft
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi Revier, thank you. The model has a plastic cover over it that fits inside the rim of the base. At 1:150 scale that is the only way to keep it clean. The good news is that with the small scale the overall case size is not too obtrusive. Cheers, B.E.
- 126 replies
-
- le superbe
- heller
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Looking good Bob, I'm pleased you like the lathe, feel partly responsible for pushing you down that road. Not hinting or anything but the Proxxon Mill is great for squaring the heads out of dowel for the lower masts where the rest of the length is a slightly tapering round. Not so relevant for the topmasts where starting with square stock is the better option. Cheers, B.E.
-
This question pops up from time to time, I think I answered a similar question not so long ago, but I can't recall where now, possibly lost in build log. This is what LG Carr-Laughton has to say in his book Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns. Red was from very early the regulation colour for inboard works, but during the French Revolutionary war it began to give way to yellow; and indeed other colours seemed to have been used ocasionally, for in the Thalia frigate in 1797 they painted the Quarterdeck and Foc'sle blue. It appears that in 1801, red being still the regulation colour both for the sides inboard and for gun carriages, the crews of ships were in the habit of repainting the gun carriages yellow when they received them from the officers of the Ordnance; and this implies that the inboard works were also yellow, of which there is other evidence. In August 1807, the Navy Board instructed the dockyard officers to paint the decks (by which it is meant the sides and the deck fittings, not the flat of the decks) yellow when requested to do so by Captains. Light yellow was usually chosen. It is likely that both at the Nile and Trafalgar most ships were yellow inboard, tho' probably a steadily decreasing number still kept to the old red. This looks like a case of Navy board Regulation catching up with accepted practice. Diana had a fairly long career so probably had both red and yellow inboard works, tho' I hasten to add not at the same time, that would look appalling and not at all in keeping with Georgian aesthetics. B.E.
-
Your joinery is a joy to behold Gary, and that capstan is a fine piece of work. Regards, B.E.
-
Looking good in the photo Andy, I have been concerned that serving the shroud would make it look too bulky in relation to the others. What size thread did you use in realtion to the given scale diameter of the shroud? B.E.
- 1,148 replies
-
Looking good hamilton you're certainly making her special. Love the kevels, I know they are tricky little beasts to make. B..E
-
Very nice work Ray, she is looking splendid, I'm impressed by your T&B deck planking, well done. B.E.
- 536 replies
-
- diana
- caldercraft
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi Martin re the thimbles; in the past I've used cuts off styrene, brass, and aluminium tubing to form a thimble around which I ca the line before seizing. I've also used tiny plastic seed beads flattened off. I used those for the bowlines on my 1:150 scale Seventy-four model. Thanks for reminding me about Shipahoy Models. I have their serving machine but I now see they also do a sander/thicknesser a fair bit cheaper than the Proxxon version I am trying to resist buying at the moment, a little more delving is required I think. Cheers, B.E.
- 104 replies
-
- rattlesnake
- mamoli
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
I am a fan of adding some 'ballast' to models particularly for plastic kits. In my opinion it gives a better feel to the hull and does add a little stability when working on the hull. I use washed gravel packed in plastic bags and taped and pva'd inside the hull. I find it less necessary and convenient with wooden pob kits by the nature of their structure, and certainly with my current build with mdf keel and bulkheads it is heavy enough. If I think it is appropriate to add weight to a pob kit I screw metal plates along the keel between the bulkheads. B.E.
-
Some fine detail on those shots Ferit, I like the neat little sheave for the Fore sheets, very nicely done. B.E.
-
Nice lines Mark, the results of all your hard work is clear to see. Useful thing to be able to flip the photos, helps the eye detect any discrepancies in the sheer line. Getting the wale line right is one of the crucial aspects of a build. Did the French use Top and Butt or Anchor stock planking on the wales, or have they made life more simple for you by using straight planks? B.E.
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.