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Everything posted by Chuck
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You have to bevel the edges of those planks so no gaps can be seen inboard. But since it will be painted also…just apply some filler. On the outboard side it looks like you just need to sand that area on the right side down to even it out. That need fixing because after you put the molding on it wont look good. You need to have a nice curve that isnt wobbly/ wavvy port to starboard.
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- Cheerful
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Chapter 7 laser cut parts are now available. Please remember that if you are far from needing these parts, please refrain from buying them. I will always have more made when these are gone. Your fellow Winnie group builders that are up to this chapter in the process will thank you. They have been eagerly awaiting its release. As soon as I return which is on Wednesday, I will start making the cherry version of chapter 7. Currently having fun somewhere in Virginia......either on a mountain or under it.....next stop Alexandria. Chuck
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- winchelsea
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Really nice work. The rigging is coming together really well. Chuck
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I use artist acrylics from a tube. I am using Grumbacher at the moment. But I have also used Windsor and Newton.
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I got it from micromark years ago. I cant remember what the name was but they have a few brands and color sets. I have gotten several sets and they are all mixed up now but check them out.
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Dying/coloring rope; sources for purchase of quality rope
Chuck replied to Tomculb's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Cotton and natural rope actually sags more than poly. It is so finicky when it comes to moisture. What you describe as sagging one hour and super tight the next absolutely happens with natural and especially cotton ropes. In fact....if you rig with cotton rope on an especially humid day and make your lines tight......when it dries out the next day the lines will shrink. I have seen belaying pins pull away from the bulwarks when this happens because cotton shrinks when wet and then it dries. Poly on the other hand is more slippery but has much more stretch. So if the lines are taught the stretchiness tends to prevent any sagging at all. Its a trade off. I like the natural stuff but it tends to be fuzzy. I also like the poly ropes because it is so crisp and clean. Now that the unravelling issue is solved, it is just a matter of personal preference. I never belay my lines permanently when first rigged. I let them sit and adjust for a while. Then I tension them later and permanently belay them. That helps with either material. With poly line there is no dye needed. Only certain brands are really shiny. So many colors to choose from. Cotton is more problematic that way although good color choices are out there. It just tends to be kind of fuzzy. Chuck -
They moved it up to the gun deck. It was a real mistake to have it on the lower deck. They did the same with the pumps. This was indicated on the original draft and other primary notations. Its another difference between the contemporary model. Changes shown in red....I have a few of these showing the update. Chuck
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I decided to design and make the stove before I put any more beams in position. I just wanted to have it ready when its time to glue it in permanently. Usually when I design new mini-kits like this I have to make five or six of them. I got lucky and this time everything went together perfectly on the first go around. Unfortunately I didnt take any construction photos so I am going to have to make another one anyway. Maybe it will come out even better the second time around. Here are some photos. Except for a 1mm brass rod and a bit of 24 gauge black wire, this stove kit is made entirely of boxwood, yellow cedar and laser board. The pulley is laser board for example. The close ups are pretty brutal but on the ship it looks really nice. It was hard to photograph a black stove so you guys can see all the details.
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Ahh!!! Good times…i remember it fondly. Topes all over the place, LOL. But its looking good.
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I am happy to report that wood packages of ready-milled strips are now available for the Winnie Group Build. I know that many of you were hesitant to jump in on this project because you didnt have a Byrnes Saw or equivalent. But now all of the wood strips for planking and other elements can be bought through MODELERSSAWMILL.com http://www.modelerssawmill.com/ Joe will cut your wood for the Cherry or Alaskan Yellow Cedar projects. I have painstakingly reviewed every chapter so far completed and all future chapters to determine what strips will be needed. Its mostly for hull and deck planking but there were a few other odds and ends. So if the only thing stopping you from jumping in to build this fantastic model was the fact that you couldnt mill your own strips......there is no longer a reason not to join in on the fun!!! The package includes hundreds of strips including 310 milled 1/4" x 3/64" planking strips for the hull and decks. A few misc. wood sheets are also thrown in there for good measure where needed. Wood list Winnie.pdf
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If you want. But have a look at some planking expansions for fifth rates. That anchor style planking is correct. Its not something you would see on a contemporary model that often. But it is historically correct to show it planked like that. BUT it is a little “kitchen sink” for my tastes. Check out the the swan class series for a good example in that series of books. By David Antscherl. If not done neatly and cleanly it usually looks pretty bad and can really make a model look sloppy. So proceed carefully.
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- winchelsea
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Two winnie's.... I know these pics arent that good but it was tough to take pictures at the time. Mike's Winnie next to mine again .... Most notable to mention...One is made entirely of Boxwood while the other is made almost entirely of Yellow cedar. Can you tell the difference? Yellow Cedar at a third the cost of Boxwood, LOL. It was such a nice afternoon. And a quick look at what I am designing for the catheads. I am working on the design for parts we will need much later in the project. I am making some beta tests. Here is the cathead under development. I think this is the final iteration I will go with. Laser etched side panels and star carving. Actual working sheaves as well. Its a little too short and I just have to lengthen it about 3/32". Then its good to go. Each piece of this project was probably tested and remade about 5 or 6 times before you get the final parts.
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- winchelsea
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Looking good. Glad to see your progress.
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Just a heads up as well. I am nearing completion of the first 12 chapter seven parts in cedar. It takes a long time. Nearly 25 laser cut boards in this chapter. It may not seem like a lot but keep in mind that the parts for this chapter are more complex. Most are laser cut on both sides which nobody else does. This nearly doubles the number of boards as far as time goes. Its like butting 50 boards per chapter. Many if not most of the parts are also boxwood. I probably should have made this two chapters in hindsight. Anyway.... I have a request. Because these take so long to laser cut....if you are not near needing these parts immediately, please refrain from buying it. I know many of you havent even started the project yet. I would ask that you let the folks who are at this stage of the project and really need the chapter seven parts to buy this first batch. I think you understand why. No sense in having them sit on a shelf for a year while we have people who actually ready to start chapter seven. Thank You in advance. When I get back from Washington DC I will start making the first cherry chapter parts. Chuck
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- winchelsea
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Thanks Mike....Tomorrow I have to remember to take pictures of both our Winnie models next to each other. It will be interesting to see both together now that we are so much farther along. Way back when we managed to take a picture at this stage....we have come a long way since then. It will be really fun to get the guys together after 18 months....I am looking forward to it. We have about a guys from our club coming by the shop for some lunch and they will be bringing their models that they have been working on during the lock-down!!! Good times!!!
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He will be cutting that split area away anyway as that beam need to be moved forward. My original slot was not in the correct position. So most of the work is done for him already. None of the deck clamps will be visible. They are all covered by the lodging knees etc. se the latest update in my prototype build log.
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