Captain Slog

Hi Greg, Your rigging looks incredible

Hi Ron, Been a while since I dropped by and all I can say is WOW. Sails look fantastic. Nice work. Cheers Slog

Thanks Grant, I just sprayed coke all over my monitor

Hi John, Your build is coming along nicely. There is a very high chance the MS Charles W Morgan will be my next build eventually. I may have missed this but is the anchor chain in the photos the MS supplied chain? Cheers Slog

Hi Pygothian, I have been keeping tabs on when your Syren would arrive since my next purchase at some stage is likely to be a Model Shipways kit from Model Expo and being a fellow Perthite was interested in your experience. Well doesn't sound to impressive from your comments! My Endeavour took just 6 days from the UK door to door! Anyway happy building and will be following your build. Cheers Slog

Hi Kevin, You are off to a nice start. I will definitely be following this one. I would love to do this one at some stage but I have the 1:200 GPM card one on the back burner at the moment. Interestingly I started at the same area you did. The funnel is such an interesting area. Not sure if you would be interested in the following link if you are not aware of it already but it is by Anton (Perth_shipyard) who used to be very active on MSW 1.0 with his HMS Diana. Anyway he is using the KA 1 upgrade kit which I think you are/going to use. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178 Cheers Slog

Hi, Greg and Duffer thanks for the kind words much appreciated. Jeff, when I read this I had a real “oh…!?” moment and rushed to the plans but no mention of a supplied sheave, whew! Yeah you would think it would be a supplied part. Hi Sam, thanks for the suggestion and I tried it out this morning. Using a 3mm hole punch I tapped it against the brass sheet to scribe the circumference and using tin snips and side cutters trimmed the excess off as best I can. I marked up 2 in-case of mess ups. Then after drilling a 0.8mm hole to match the rod I soft soldered the rod into the hole. Trimming the rod quite short I placed it in my Dremel and using only the first 2 settings on the speed range fired it up and held a file against the edge. Slow and steady was the order of the day. At one stage I pressed to hard and bent the rod but was easily pushed straight again. Once that was done I wondered if it would be possible to put the groove in? So fired the Dremel up again and used a miniature triangular shaped file pressed against the 0.8mm edge of the sheave. This was a bit hit or miss as the file would sometimes skate off the edge removing the bevel it just made! IT was quite difficult to remove the rod afterwards though and needed to re-drill the hole. Thinking on your idea and other possible solutions I wondered if it would have been easier to buy 3mm brass rod instead but then have the issue of cutting off a 0.8mm slice. Okay, after messing around with tiny parts moved on to something a wee bit bigger, the anchors. Photo shows the required parts. 4 cast metal anchors and the stock halves from solid walnut sheet. The 1mm brass rod is needed for the anchors rings. Okay, a small issue from CC and a near disaster by me which I wasn’t sure if I should mention due to my stupidity but decided to share anyway. Got to show the good the bad and the ugly I suppose. Firstly I cleaned up the minimal casting flashing on the anchors with some files and cleaned up the holes with a 1.5mm drill. Then cut out and trimmed the walnut stock halves. Here is the first issue; the grooves cut into the stocks are too deep. When the halves are pressed together around the anchor there is a considerable gap. I think I will glue some 0.5mm strip into the bottoms of the grooves and see how that works. The brass rings are from 1mm as per the plans but they don’t say what diameter. After some measuring and checking I bent the wire round a 6mm diameter drill shank and I think they look okay size wise. Here it goes . I thought I would silver solder the rings together after feeding them into the holes in the anchor. I placed the join as far from the anchor as possible and used the torch to come in from the side to keep the heat away. Well it turns out the melting post of the cast white metal is well below the melting point of the silver solder and started to melt. Thankfully I removed the heat quick enough and didn’t loss the end of the anchor as the ring started to morph its way through the casting. After squeezing as much material back into the space, tidying up with files and re-drilling the hole. The saved anchor can be seen second from the top. Not to bad as could have been a lot worse I ended up using CA glue on the ring joins which will be hidden in the anchor hole. Painted the anchor castings and the pump components using Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. Not to worried about the rings as will be doing puddening on them next. Cheers Slog

Hi, Just a small update today, the fish davit. This is shown in the AOTS and provided by Caldercraft with an open ended sheave. The part is supplied from one of the solid walnut sheets which is very cleanly cut by CNC including the open sheave. I had to wait until I bought some 0.8mm sheet brass to make the sheave. It was actually quite difficult to cut the sheet and make a round 3mm x 0.8mm sheave but since most of it is hidden inside the davit I got it round enough. I used 0.8mm rod for the pin. I chemically blackened the sheave and pin but for some reason the blackening didn’t take to the brass sheet. I wonder if the brass composition of the sheet is different from the rod which I have had good success with in the past. I also included a couple of eyebolts in the top surface as per the AOTS. The davit is just shown in position for the photos but will be removed later as it sticks out a fair bit. I will pin it to the rail when the time comes. Cheers Slog

Hi Jeff, really moving along now! Are you going to paint the hull, in like the Trafalgar colours or going with the natural look? Cheers Slog

Thanks Jeff. Never thought of just doing one . I think I will do that and see how it looks. I think I will need to paint the cast white metal parts though as don't think the blackening will work on them. Thanks Ferit, I will leave the bumpkins with the varnished finish. Unfortunately they are built up with ply pieces which kind of stand out but happy enough with them. I couldn't decide whether to paint the cat-heads black or leave varnished but 99% sure will leave them as is also. Good advice Greg. I will leave off things like anchors which will catch sleeves etc but the cat-heads etc don't stick out to much and pretty solidly attached. Hi Mick, most references, including the AOTS show them on the rails. I think only CC have them going through the bulwarks. Seems to be dispute whether Endeavour had them at all but I like the look of them so decided to go with that and stuck with the kit method also. "Someone did tell me what it's called but I have slept since then " ROFL It gets a bit like that sometimes. They are called thumb cleats and redid them today and glued them on. Photo below. Cheers Slog

Hi Edward, You are progressing well. Have a question regarding the planking at the top rear of the quarter deck next to the stern? You appear to have a large single sheet of wood? Is this what Caldercraft supply now to do that area as I had to plank mine in the usual way. I assume you will trim it down in height as from the photos it does appear to be quite high above the rear deck. Cheers Slog

Very nice Ferit. Everything looks nice and square and symmetrical. Good to see overall shots now and again. We tend to get focused on the details and forget the big picture. Cheers Slog

Hi Mick, Your choice of colours for your guitar should look real nice. Greg and Tom answered your questions but might add that probably easier to fake the mast sheaves with a couple of holes and a groove. I did 0.3mm holes and groove in the 2mm ensign staff and today did 1mm holes in the cat-heads. Once you drill the holes use a steel rule and a new No.11 blade with a sharp point to score a line between the outside edge of the holes, joining the two. Doesn't have to be deep then use the point of the blade to pick out the material between the scribe marks. For the 1mm holes I also used the point of the drill at a shallow angle to 'scrap' up and down the groove by hand to clean the edges. Didn't with the 0.3mm for fear of breaking it. Cheers Slog

Hi David, Beautiful build. Look forward to your next one. Cheers Slog

No worries Sam, I assumed it was a mix up . Thanks for the info on the wire. As mentioned up above I decided to do the pumps but after seeing Mikes scratch pumps and then checking Steve’s and Greg's who also scratched the pumps I set them aside until I decide what to do. The photo shows the cast white metal components which are quite chunky. The castings themselves were of decent quality needing only a touch up with a file to clean off some casting seams. The other parts needed are 4mm dowel and 0.7mm brass rod. Hmmmmm decisions decisions… While I procrastinated about the pumps I decided to move to the bow, since the rear deck is hung up on the pumps, the mid deck is hung up on the ships boats and cannon, I am running out of areas to work on LOL. First up is the fish davits. Caldercraft supply 2 davit pads and 2 shackles but only 1 fish davit. Not sure if the real ship had only one davit that they humphed from side to side? Any way the davit pads are 1.5mm walnut ply which after cutting free from the sheet I sanded a slight round on the top edge as per the AOTS and stuck down with CA. The davit shackles are photo etch brass. The plans don’t mention how they are secured to the deck but the AOTS shows them attached to an eyebolt so used the supplied copper ones. The shackle needed the hole enlarged slightly with a drill to accept the eyebolt and after opening the eyebolt slightly to accept the shackle it was squeezed closed again and the parts chemically blackened. The fish davit pads and shackles in place. I haven’t done the davit yet as it has an open sheave so need to come up a sheave to fill the slot. The bumpkins were up next. Away back when I was doing the bulwarks and before the top rail was down, I marked the position of the bumpkins and cut slots into the bulwarks ready for this day. There was a fair bit of discussion in MSW about the position of the bumpkins and how they should be placed over the rail, or even if the Endeavour had bumpkins, but this is how the kit shows them so happy to go along with this set-up. Once the 2 halves of the walnut ply bumpkins were glued together and a final sand to clean them up they slid through the previous made slot into the solid walnut brackets which were CA glued to the deck. The cat-heads next. I was swithering whether to cut full slots and make up and insert proper sheaves but again a lack of suitable material at hand decided for me so made false sheaves by drilling 1mm holes right through the cat-head and after scribing lines joining the holes the material was picked out with the craft knife. A couple of photos of todays work. I notice most people paint the cat heads black but decided to varnish first so that the securing bolts and ringbolts on the side (this is not mentioned in the plans but is in the AOTS) stand out more. I still have the thumb cleats on the sides to do (again not in the plans but is in the AOTS) as I was almost finished them when “one little trim needed to finish" caused one to break apart. I may go back and paint them black but will see. Cheers Slog

Hi Mick, Masts looking great. My vote would be for a green guitar top. PRS did a beautiful green quilted maple top as part of there range which I fell in love with. Are you going to use traditional aniline dyes for staining your guitar? Cheers Slog

Hi Mike, Your pumps look fantastic. I am currently working on my pumps also and the kit supplied ones are very basic, clunky and look pretty poor really. I was just going to do them as supplied anyway so as to finish the rear deck but seeing yours may make me rethink this. Thanks a bunch Joking of course Cheers Slog

Hi Keith, I am probably not the best person to give advice on second planking as I hated it and it took me at least 9 months to complete as I would do a bit and then put it aside in disgust then do another little bit etc. Anyway for what its worth here’s my thoughts. Firstly on the plans find the side elevation with the wale position on it. I am sure the plans and instructions say to start from here. Accurately measure the height at many points along the top of the wale and transfer it to your hull. Once you have a series of marks I suggest using a full length strip for the 1st plank at least so you get a nice smooth flow along the top wale line. Then plank up and down from there. If 1st plank is accurately placed when you come to do the wales the first wale plank sits perfectly on top of this one. I prefer using whole lengths for the rest of planking as I found long lengths bend laterally more easily. Short lengths become very stiff side ways and hard (for me at least) to get smooth flows. Although I tried both in different areas. A 100mm plank length is a shade under 21 feet which would be an acceptable length I believe. Cheers Slog oops forgot about shift pattern. I started with good intentions but ended up placing them to fit. If I used a full length I didn't bother marking pretend butt joins and when I used short lengths I just made sure none of the joins were next to each other. To be honest I don't really noticed the hull plank pattern on mine. Sorry not a very good answer I am afraid.

Stunning work Ferit. Cheers Slog

Hi Mick, Looking good. The chains on the rudder is to prevent losing the rudder should it inadvertently become detached (unshipped) from the keel. According to the AOTS the chains should be attached to the rudder a bit higher than you have them, probably closer tot he step where your rudder changes colour from white to bare wood. Cheers Slog

Progressing nicely Wayne. That's a nice touch covering the ply edges and grooving them. Cheers Slog

No worries Jeff. Thanks ZyXuz, I am happy how they turned out. They could be a bit darker maybe, but don’t want to do anymore on them in case I mess them up so happy as they are. HI Keith, thanks for the kind words. The Caldercraft Endeavour builds a nice model straight from the box. As far as I can remember I don’t think I have done much different than what is in the plans or provided in the kit either. A couple of small embellishments or replacements but that’s about it. It’s unfortunate about the MSW 1.0 crash as my log originally started from opening the box to the point this log continues from. I also had a hard drive failure and only have some photos from the finish of second planking to current. I was fortunate in the early days of my build that there several Caldercraft Endeavours running at the same time which were further on than me that I could learn from but they seem to have died out in MSW 2.0. I highly recommend you start a log now, I would guess most people, including me find all stages of builds interesting. I will be following your build when you are ready to post and just holler with any questions and I will help where I can. Today was spent blackening about 150 of the supplied copper eyelets and fitting all the eyelets on the rear deck and channels. Not much to show photo wise with that. Probably do the pumps tomorrow and that should be the last of the rear deck fittings, oh and the iron horse. Cheers Slog

Hi Mick, You are certainly moving along at a fair lick. That new links/chains you have look very nice and doing a great job on them. My finger tips were numb after squeezing the links round the deadeyes . The 'business end' of your ship is looking great, probably one of my favourite areas on a sail ship I think. Cheers Slog

Hi Jeff, Magazine is looking sweet. Is there a lot of 'furniture', fixtures and fittings on the decks? these are thetype of things I like doing most on a build. cheers Slog

Hi Jeff, I highly recommend giving it a try. Way back in the beginning of my build until recently I was resistant to try it as read lots of posts in MSW 1.0 where it seemed to be a very hit or miss affair getting even coverage or a nice colour, or it flaked off etc. Some of the processes described seemed to much bother as well with scrub the brass with this and rinse with that and then soak in something else and repeat etc; then someone on MSW 2.0 (I apologise for not giving credit as I can’t remember) posted this link, http://www.modelboatyard.com/blackening.html to an article on blackening. Seemed much simpler and gave it go and it works…for me any way. I don’t clean my brass work in anything prior, although most of it would have seen the hot end of the torch so I guess contaminates are burned off. A quick soak of 10 or more minutes in the acid followed by a rinse in water and then a couple of minutes in the blackening solution followed by a rinse in water again and a buff. I haven’t noticed any difference in 100% neat solution or 50/50 water solution or any difference between 2 and 4 minutes but it would pay to experiment. I think the Blackening was $20 bucks and I got the hydrochloric acid from Bunnings which was $8 or $9 bucks. They had a couple of different brands and volumes. Cheers Slog