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DocBlake

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Everything posted by DocBlake

  1. DocBlake
    I'm looking forward to seeing you starting up this log again. I have this kit in my stash, and although I've got a few irons in the fire, I am tempted to start her up. I love doing interior detailing, and your build is inspiring me. Good job!
  2. DocBlake
    I'm going to follow this one too!
  3. DocBlake
    Beautiful model, David!
  4. DocBlake
    Great idea!
  5. DocBlake
    Thanks, Don. No, just regular solder. Plenty strong.
  6. DocBlake
    I took a little time to work on this build today . I'm using the rigging plans for "Halifax" so there three pair of shrouds per mast fixed to the channels rather than 4 as in the kit. The 4th shroud is secured to a cleat. I made the chainplates from 20 gauge copper wire doubled up and soldered together. After blackening, I'll drill holes for the nails that will hold the chainplates to the wales. The channels are made of boxwood, as is the chainplate cover strip. there's a decorative profile cut into the channels and the cover strip.
  7. DocBlake
    Very sorry to hear the news.
  8. DocBlake
    Nice job. I like the display, also!
  9. DocBlake
    Excellent job so far. I am anxious to see more!
  10. DocBlake
    Great progress. She's coming along quickly!
  11. DocBlake
    Incredible work! That ship is immense!
  12. DocBlake
    Great work!
  13. DocBlake
    Don: The rigging has added a lot to the model already. Great job! Keep it up.
  14. DocBlake
    Nice work on the fittings, David. The Rattler is a beautiful ship. I love her lines and especially her sharp tumblehome!
  15. DocBlake
    With our deck project complete, I've freed up some time to get back to the shipyard. I decided to poly the fore and aft surfaces of the frames begore gluing them to the keel, when access is much more restricted. I do have a couple of questions for previous builders of this model: 1) Is bracing between each frame necessary or advisable? What should be the layout, and is there a historical precedent for this? 2) Should I cut the mortises for the gun port framing before assembly, or after the frames have been installed? Here's a photo of the nine frames drying after the first coat of poly. The can of Minwax gives some perspective as to how big a 1/24 scale section is!
  16. DocBlake
    5 minute epoxy is the best thing since sliced bread! I use it ALL the time! Unless you have a very long tedious assembly to do, it's enough time to glue most things. Don't buy the stuff in the tin tubes or syrynges: the tubes crack and leak, and the syrynges are too difficult to measure the 1:1 mix you need accurately. I pick up a set with a separate bottle for hardener and resin (4.5 oz. each!) for $10 at Jo Ann's or Hobby Lobby. Should last years.
  17. DocBlake
    Superb rigging. I love the furled sails!
  18. DocBlake
    You did the right thing with the stove,Bob. In my POF AVS at 1/32 scale the stove is barely visible...I spent a lot of time on it, which is fine, but not a lot to show for it in it's effect in the model. Simpler is better at smaller scales. Overall your work continues to be stunning. Keep it up!
  19. DocBlake
    Good to have you back, Bill!
  20. DocBlake
    Great job on the longboat! Love the detail.
  21. DocBlake
    Great job on the detailing, Jon!
  22. DocBlake
    Great job, JP! Keep it up!
  23. DocBlake
    Fantastic!
  24. DocBlake
    Great work, Don. We've come to expect it from you.
  25. DocBlake
    Looks great,Bob! I plan to do a complete interior on my "Fair American", as Mike Lonnecker did on his. I'm building a Lauck Street kit, but it's been on hold for a while.

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