dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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They're delicate little suckers. Ben. Same thing happened to me (and Toni, I believe). Second time around I glued on some battens to hopefully keep it stable until planking. -
Sweet work it. I was surprised to see that the massive double stranded forestay starts and ends in two small thimbles and eye bolts. Wonder if they ever pulled out under stress?
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- young america
- clipper
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"Precision eyeballing" - would be an oxymoron for me but pretty spot-on for your build. That's a gorgeous model.
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Yet Another Pandora 3D build
dvm27 replied to herask's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
There are several books which depict the shipyard but here's a photo of a completed ship in it's slipway with launching cradle http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66473.html -
Beautiful work, Keith. It seems like backlash is a problem for me when I try to do repeated sequences such as you have done above. I found an article by Sherline on how to adjust for it and I shall have to read it.
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Miniature Russian carving tools
dvm27 replied to druxey's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My set is in the mail and I'm looking forward to receiving them! Michael writes that he has a few left. -
Yet Another Pandora 3D build
dvm27 replied to herask's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
That's really cool Dennis. It would be even cooler if you were to use a contemporary Admiralty dockyard building slip, complete with workers, as the background. -
Really enjoying this build, Dan. I really admire those who can build ships of any era with equal excellence. Great link, Keith! Don't believe I've come across micro brass tubing that small before.
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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My God man...that's craftsmanship!
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Looking great Ben. Your ports are lining up very fair. Are you still cutting the sill mortises prior to installing the frames?
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ancre Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Wonderful work on that stern framing (and everything else)! -
Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
dvm27 replied to Torbogdan's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Plank on frame airplane modeling...a far cry from the plastic models of my youth. Makes me want to take a stab at a WWI biplane or triplane. Or recently, I was diverted by a You Tube modelers chanel specializing in WWII aircraft https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-Mdr1mgVuU. The level of detail and finishing is amazing. And those damned Pocher classic automobiles... -
Wonderful precision joinery Alexandru.
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Well Kenny, Harold did not use power tools (except a lathe perhaps). He even cut out all his frames with a fret saw. So while power tools are nice you can certainly do excellent work without them or with brands that aren't quite Byrnes quality.
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Following Mike's point, you may also wish to consider building a jig to make sure all the frames are the correct height and orientation. On the jig add a keel stop at the bottom to fit the keel slot and two small stops above the toptimbers. On the glued up blank first cut and file the slot for the rabbet. Then trim the toptimbers to fit the top stops. Now that the glued up frame pieces fit the jig exactly, you can cut out the body of the frame and the maximum height of breadth (widest part across the hull) should line up perfectly on both sides of the hull. I would also leave 1/16" outside the line while cutting to allow for slight errors in raising the frames. Finally, if you can swing it, I would highly recommend the Byrnes disk sander to finish the outside of the frames and an oscillating spindle sander for the insides. It'll cut your frame making time in half.
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Just personal preference, Kenny, but I believe if you're going to take the time trouble to build a framed model you should leave some of it visible. I think Harold's method of leaving off the planking just below the wales is a good compromise. Otherwise, there are cheaper and faster methods of constructing a hull (plank on bulkhead, lift method, etc.). Or one could plank one whole side and leave the other side in frame. Only problem with this is displaying it to its best advantage.
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Druxey is certainly correct, Mark. I find that anguishing and deliberating over redoing a part takes more time than the actual repairs. My motto - when in doubt, rip it out! Of course that could explain why my models take so long to complete.
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Good luck with your Raleigh build, Kenny. I built two Hahn-style models before I switched to upright building. His methods may be a bit wasteful but it insures a fair, solid hull. Try to do as much construction and fairing of the hull as you can before separating it.
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For those of you who enjoy following Glenn's building log I'm sure you also miss his updates. Glenn's profession is actually building model ships (which should come as no surprise to anyone here) and he has been very busy trying to complete several projects and preparing for new ones. As much as he enjoys posting on this site, there literally are no enough hours in the day for him to do his job and keep us up to date on his progress. But he will return as soon as he gets caught up and wishes everyone the best. Perhaps it's not ideal when your hobby becomes your profession!
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If you are building ship's fittings yourself there are many parts that need to be mass produced (cannon brackets, knightheads, capstan etc.). Having two (or three!) saws with different setups makes this process much easier.
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You must be very organized to keep all the individual futtocks together with their neighbors. There must be over a thousand pieces. What if that box fell over...
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