popeye the sailor
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Everything posted by popeye the sailor
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never thought of that Pat........it's probably what happened. thanks for the good word -
thanks John.......I went in to lay down another strake or two on the Progress, and the rubber bands that were holding the windows in place snapped....I guess they were too old. one of the windows came off...........I'll have to fix it ahhh......the life span of a rubber band thanks to all who hit the like button
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thanks John bring'in back some fond memories and thanks to all who hit the like button!
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I was intrigued with your concerns about the rigging, so I downloaded a copy of the instructions. quite an interesting vessel........I also downloaded the Caribbean Pirate ship instructions #0386. that model doesn't even hold a candle to the one your building! there is some great detail in the rigging of the Black Swan........really show what I've been saying about the standing rigging and how the running rigging depends on it. the Santa Maria rigging is not even close either, I don't think. you are building a wonderful model here........heck, I may even be on the look out for it
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planking is still going on.......I'm adding more and more each day. I spent some time on her this afternoon, shaving down the protrusions on both sides of the helm cabin, and a few more strakes of planking. bulkhead #15 has disappeared behind the wall of planking....the open frame is slowly closing up. the line is looking much better. even the bow has a good shape to her, tucked behind the rabbit. before I cement the plank in place, I bevel the mating edge of the plank, so it will sit flush with the rabbit edge. the correct angle is key here to keep the gap monster away the stern is looking pretty good too........four strakes later, each one tapered down. I've done some extreme tapering here so far......time to widen it, I think. I am very close to the turn........I had thoughts about resorting to 5 mm strakes to span it. I had this weird thought that using the 7 mm might make it look kinda clunky. I threw the thought out of my mind.......if there was the idea that this might happen, the instructions would have specified it. besides, the turn isn't really that drastic, and I don't recall doing it to the Nordkap.
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this week has been tough to get much table time in........I had the coup de gras at the Dentist, and holiday decorations to contend with. of course, after the visit to the dentist, I didn't have much gusto to do much else.......but I made myself. I did manage to do a little on the T.D. as well. the front lower railings are now in place, both done in the same manner.......I only have pictures of the starboard side. funny how I always seem to do the starboard side first, with just about every bit of progress I make..........guess I'm just a starboard kind of guy the windows have also been added to the front and rear of the second level structure.....as I guessed, the curvature gave me a bit of trouble. they are not as I would have liked........I'll check 'em out when I remove the rubber bands that are pressing them in place. hopefully they are good enough to cement the structure in place and add the third level.
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nice work on the Cutter Bill........have to agree how Revell dropped the ball on their boat kits. although, the 1:96 line of ship kits are among my favorites. they did better with their car and plane kits. I have the old U.S.S. Arizona kit.......it's just as I remember it.......but back then, us modelers were so sheltered and hidden.....who knew >shrug< great job on an old kit! really nice
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looks good. just follow the diagrams and you shouldn't go wrong. I took pictures of the Santa Maria diagrams in case you need them.
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well then......just sand in the flats. if you should goof up and only do a six sided center...no one will notice
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glad to hear...........have fun with your new toys thanks for letting us {me} know........you didn't have to, but it's interesting to hear that your job involves all things nautical. a huge salute to you. you didn't have to rub in the semi retirement thing though.......I'm still try'in to get there myself look'in forward to your continuance...........
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don't worry OC........there are plenty of folks here that can give you pointers. another thing you can do, is look up rigging diagrams online.......I'm also sure there is something out there. you don't need to be too detailed.......as long as you have all the important rigging, it will still be an impressive model. does the instructions have rigging diagrams? I have the Revell Santa Maria....an old kit....should be close enough. I can snap some photos of the rigging diagrams and send them to you if you'd like........in a PM, or here on the log.
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did you add the thicker section as a sleeve, or did you assemble the yard in three pieces? I've seen most folks add short strips of strip stock to the center of the mast dowel {as a full length yard}, and sand it to retain the eight sided appearance. I would say that with the thickness of the mast, you could accomplish this with 2 mm wide strip
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Daniel........the rivet counter in you is showing! what a beautiful stove!.........such detail! very.....very well done
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well hello Peter! so glad to see your back at the table. I do hope it wasn't anything serious that kept you from it. Billing had another process for simulated calking between the planks.......I tried it on the Regina build. thin strip mahogany was used on that model.......I've been wanting to try it again and I may have that chance. I've never tried thread.......I may one of these models ....it look good! seeing the mahogany deck platform.....I received another Nordkap kit last Christmas. it has the mahogany parts sheets........give me the hint that our kits might be around the same age. I plan to build another old billing's model from it....the Progress. working on her, I'm reminded of the problems you had in cutting out the parts so far though, it has gone well WOW! it is a pleasant surprise to see your progress.......I hope to see more. be well and fair winds!
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I see a couple funnel cables...........your right.......it's very hard to see fine thread in pictures she's looking really good Carl.......very nice work
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lots of folks didn't like the blocks......as well as the eye bolts. I've used them for all of my 1:96 scale models, without any problems at all. I've also heard laments about the masts and how they tend to sag........a lot of these problems though are due to rigging tension. to understand string tension and stretch is the best way to execute the rigging, so it doesn't distort the masts and yards. you wouldn't be doing a disservice substituting wood
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you could add a mural inside........just kidding now you have an idea of how large the case will be.........easier to figure out a suitable place to display her awesome!
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very nice progress.......very nice use of color she's look'in good.
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bear in mind too that you'll probably be adding margins along the bulwarks........they hide a lot of sin
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not sure how high the coaming was.......but I haven't seen a hatch or hold yet, that didn't have a cover on it. whether it be of wood or canvas, they were all covered over in the event that water came on board. sometimes less is more........too bad about the problem with the beams and the deck platform. on most wooden models, if there is a deck platform, it is mainly cemented to the bulkheads and that's about it. with a POF model, the beams and framework is laid and the planking is done over it, without the use of a deck platform. if you desire to treat this model like a POF, create the border along the bulwarks and lay the beams and framing. doing the borders will enable you to cement your planking along the bulwarks......do away with the platform. if you chose to use the deck platform, then lay beams as you would see bulkheads, and then lay the platform. modification is a tricky business.........unseen problems can sneak in. I know you want to give this model as much realism as possible.....but sometimes, a shortcut can't hurt........and who knows, it may open up another possibility if your going to leave the hold open, figure out the height of the lower deck, fit in a section of deck platform and plank it over. it will look great! I like what your trying to do.
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you kinda need to weigh out the pros and cons.........the wood ones will always look the part.......but even though blackened, the brass belaying pins may patina after a time. the wood ones might be more fragile that the brass ones, concerning breakage.........but the wood ones will take more kindly to cement better than the brass ones. there are other things to consider, but overall, the looks of the model must take precedence. then again, I haven't seen any belaying pins made of wood that I liked.......they always look like the tops of a banister post I got some wooden ones supplied in my Thermopylae kit.......that;s exactly what I'm going to use them for I do notice that you next hole is in line of a bulwark post.........did the Bluenose have pinrails?
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