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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. You're getting there.... I find it always seems to take forever until I've rounded the turn of the bilge.
  2. Mark: that link does also offer the possibility "Make an offer".
  3. You keep turning up little gems, Bruce! Thank you.
  4. Oh, you crafty creature, Mark! Certainly SWOPEM is a good way to go at times. And I agree that aftermost piece of spirketting is easier carved than bent. However, it's covered by the knee anyway! She's looking very good indeed.
  5. Hard to give a definitive answer; it all depends on the shape of the hull that you are planking. Cut a strip of card first to that width and see if it 'wraps' well along the hull. If not, narrower planks will be easier to work.
  6. Hanging knees in the Great Cabin would take up space and interfere with nice panelling and cornices!
  7. The deck plans are usually 'as built', not 'as designed'. These were the records for future repair work.
  8. Yes, I buy HSS number drills in small sizes in bulk as well now that they are easily available. Curiously, now I've a good supply, I rarely break one!
  9. Well, that is interesting, Gary. I presume the reason that their layout was so precisely recorded for Dorsetshire and Hector was that this was not typical. Usually standard features and fittings were omitted from plans as everyone back then knew where they were supposed to go. Hector, I note, was built in a merchant yard by Barnard of Deptford. Is that significant? (Dorsetshire was built in the naval yard at Portsmouth.) Does anyone have a better explanation?
  10. I use several layers of material because, as you point out, the holes in gauze/cheesecloth are quite large. Your solution sounds more efficient!
  11. Bruce: you turn up the most interesting papers! Thank you for this one.
  12. The gods smiled on you, Gary? I'll say!! You were very fortunate. The base looks terrific and compliments the fabulous model perfectly. A great finish. Now, what's next? We are waiting....
  13. Easy questions, Gary! The placement of the hanging knee to the beam was on the fore side forward and aft side aft. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/384163.html although this is an earlier 1709 example. As for cast knees, they were shaped from compass timber, so curved, twisted pieces would have been selected for best grain direction and strength, plus minimum wastage. (Think of the bottom of the trunk and main root area.)
  14. The rudder coat, as it was called, was nailed around the rudderhead a little below the opening in the counter. Imagine an open umbrella, but the rudderhead in the center instead of the ferrule. The loose outer ends of the canvas were then turned up and nailed around the edges of the opening (the helm port) giving a loose bag-like appearance to it.
  15. Or, if that's not practical, clamp the mast in a vise and pull a strip of sandpaper to and fro across the spar. Rotate it in the vise frequently to ensure that wood is being removed evenly all the way around. Do a section at a time.
  16. You really should make your 17 year old self take a bow! That top was pretty sophisticated work for a teenager.
  17. You may find it easier to lay each strake in two planks so that they fit at stem and stern. Shape the plank ends first, then trim the butt joint to land over the center of a frame.
  18. A little too long is always better than a little too short! Nice progress, bolin.
  19. Enjoy your new space, Tim! As for ceramics, the mess would be difficult to reconcile with model-making in the same space.
  20. Surely you all know the maxim; "Measure twice, cut once, blame the tape measure."
  21. All supporting rigging is strongest in 'tripod' configuration, so I supposed fore stays and shrouds would probably do it. However, I suspect running backstays added would make for 'belt and braces' - literally! - in severe weather conditions.
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