druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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OK. A jeweller's drawplate will 'squeeze' metal that has been annealed as you draw it through a parallel hole. The total mass (or weight) of metal being drawn stays constant; it simply changes shape. Byrnes' drawplate, specifically designed to remove mass, shaves off wood on each pass through the plate. The holes are tapered in such a way that the 'small 'side acts as a kind of cutting edge as you pull stock through from that side. A jeweler's drawplate will remove mass, but the hole is 'blunt', adding friction and causing material failure more frequently because of the greater traction force required to pull it through.
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Nice way to organize things, Ben. A happy and healthy New Year to you!- 399 replies
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- winchelsea
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A happy and healthy New Year to you, Gary. Enjoy your new and improved set-up. Heed Michael's advice: all my retired friends complain how busy they are. (That's why I don't retire!) Of course, now we expect to see a lot of progress on Alfred. See? Expectations from us already!
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The drawplates that jewellers use are for pulling metal wire by compression/extrusion. The Byrnes plate is specifically for shaving down wood. They are not interchangeable.
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Looks lovely , but I hope that you used Tung oil rather than tongue oil. Yech!
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Welcome, Matt! You'll find lots of support here.
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HMS FLY by cafmodel - 1/48
druxey replied to cafmodel's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You might get more insight into construction of a Swan class sixth rate using The Fully Framed Model series of books. Frames are not all the same width all the way up. -
Welcome aboard, Bolin! You sound like you are taking a good step-by-step approach to build your skills.
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Hof van St Janskerke by niels wilhelm
druxey replied to niels wilhelm's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Impressive sized model, Niels! A few larger photos would show off your work better. -
Remember that often curved logs were sawn into planking, so were selected according to shape for a particular plank. Power sawmills and planers were far in the future!
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If you can afford one, a thermostatically controlled soldering iron delivers heat to where you want it very well. Don't use the same iron tip for soldering!
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Welcome, Marshall, to yet another Canuck!
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Please use either safety gloves or clamp the mold!!!
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Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
druxey replied to davec's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Practice makes.... Looking very good, Dave! -
Nicely done, Eric; particularly with the comparatively large tools you are using. If you are serious about miniature carving, you might consider acquiring some miniature carving tools. It will make a difficult job much easier.
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Any shape may be planked, but to plank it well (in other words that the planks follow curves pleasing to the eye) is an art as well as a science. Also, the expanded plank shapes may seem strange when 'unwrapped'. Some will be quite 'S' shaped. You might get better insight by carving a solid hull, then lining out the planking until the lines appear fair and sweet, then lifting the expanded shapes from the surface. You will then have more confidence when 3D modeling on-screen. A very happy and healthy New Year as you enjoy your family as well as the complexities of planking.
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A neutral grey might work better from an exposure point of view, Chris.
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Which is what I was trying to say less bluntly!
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Intereresting, but the concept is flawed. The degree of bevel will change along a strake of planking. It is not constant!
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Impressive stuff, Dan!
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