mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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kit review 1/50 Viking Longship – Drakkar, by Amati
mtaylor replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
Try contacting Amati would be the best bet. They do have a website and a "contact us" area. -
Generally speaking, the studding booms were moved inboard on the yard. You might look at some of the builds in kit (wood) and also Google is your friend also. Google for Cutty Sark and add various words such as yards, studding booms, and see what's there.
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Messerschmitt Bf 109 E3 by ragove - Matchbox - 1/32 - PLASTIC
mtaylor replied to Papa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
That's a very common excuse, Phil. But it may be valid as some do have an attention deficit problem. Or, maybe it's just fear of messing up badly. -
I think we've been fooled and it really is the real thing. It really does look that good and where it's sitting gives that extra spark of reality.
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Ah.. got it. I just use razor blade for the moulding cutter that's been shaped using some standard Dremel grinding disks and cut-off wheels. If I need something smaller, then a small file.
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I see you posted this twice. So I'm moving this one to the proper forum and deleting the other.
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To "rotate" the cannons there was a set of "training/outhaul tackle" on each gun. Most models only show the basic one for recoil. The training tackle had pulleys and they also used a handspike to move the rear of the gun for training. The outhaul could be used for training. On some ships, there was an extra eyebolt on each side further from cannon to make training easier.
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Congrats on a great job of a (IMO) rare model.
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Looks factory fresh to me. I remember in the showrooms many times you couldn't get with 5 feet of one unless you showed them your bank account. Though I do recall sitting in the driver's seat of a Ford GT (whatever the commercial name of the GT-40 was) for about 10 minutes once. I knew the sales droid.
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Like a desk at the office, a clean work bench is the sign of a sick mind and work not getting done. I'm curious what you'll find in rotary cutters as I have yet to find any that will do the moulding.
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I hope all goes well, Alan. May the surgeon have steady hands and you a fast recovery. Dan, ask your question in the Masting Area. I think more eyes will see it.
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Stealers
mtaylor replied to Sheerline's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I was going to post what Druxey said. It looks like at your bow end, the planks are too wide. A tutorial will help you. -
Thanks for another fascinating glimpse of history, Stephen. I, for one, appreciate them.
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Welcome to MSW, Tom. I hope you can find the info you need to finish and it looks like you've recieved a lot of help so far. Sorry, but I removed your phone number. Please us a PM to the other person when giving out personal info.
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Looking at the detail at this scale boggles my mind. Stunning work, Marc.
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- heller
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Nothing wrong with being the "mental" section with the rest of us, Edward. She's looking quite fine.
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Wonderful work, Gary. And the figures give it a sense of perspective as to the size of the ship.
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Beautiful and interesting work, Anthony. How are you going to display her? I just can't see hanging her on a wall like other half-hull models.
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Super nice work, Hellmuht. This is something totally eye catching.
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- byblos ship
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Not a twit, Steven. We've all done that kind of thing. "Oops" followed by a few choice words. I do love the way this is looking.
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You might give some thought to something like a Hahn jig. Cut out the center around the upper part of the hull, notch it for the beams. When making your frames, add an extension to the top of the beams so the hull is above the board. Here's two photos of one of my builds using this method. By cutting out the center around the inside of the hull when doing the board, you have access to the inside.
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I can't add to what's been said, but Welcome to MSW.
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Welcome to MSW, Doug.
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