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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Very much a genius tutorial, Thanasis. Thanks for posting it.
  2. mtaylor
    Thanks for the info Joel and Frolick. Fascinating.
  3. mtaylor
    Thanks Joel. I learn something new every day here. I wasn't aware of them. I thought the elm tree pumps were normally used for fire fighting.
  4. mtaylor
    Beautiful work highlighted with beautiful photography. Sweet.
  5. mtaylor
    Patrick, This jaw-dropping. There's more detail in this than models a hundred times her size. Are those "kitchen canisters" on the red cloth on the stove..?
  6. mtaylor
    I agree with Patrick. This is amazing work with the weathering.
  7. mtaylor
    Fire engines, Joel?
  8. mtaylor
    Those look like catheads to me. Maybe that's what they are?
  9. mtaylor
    Better late than never... <runs in><slides to a stop> Nice floor... nicer model.
  10. mtaylor
    Sweet work, Danny.
  11. mtaylor
    Welcome back... For the stove.. have a look here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-furniture-and-deck-fittings.php On English ship's, the stove would have been just aft of the main bitts under the forecastle. I have no idea on the rest of your questions.
  12. mtaylor
    John, It's not a race so take all the time you need. That's part of the fun and relaxation of this hobby... no rush!
  13. mtaylor
    I was thinking... had a similar issue with the Constellation. Run the hull planking up to the bottom of the windows. Run the side planking around the stern above the windows. And Scott has a good suggestion... look at Nils' Kaiser William. I'm not sure what other ships here have a round stern like that.
  14. mtaylor
    This is when it gets exciting... can't wait to see the full-size and the little brothers sailing.
  15. mtaylor
    I hope you're right on the "more experience" part, Druxey. I buy the alcohol in the super large bottles... so far.. only one.. but... stuff happens.
  16. mtaylor
    Dick, I've not tried a laser printer. I think the heat from the fuser will be a problem. I've printed on silkspan using inkjet type by taping the silkspan to a sheet of cardstock or heavy paper. If not held flat out, it bunches and tears. I found that out the hard way as I had tear an inject apart to get out all the bits of silkspan caused by clearing the jam.
  17. mtaylor
    Give it time, Dave. Chuck also has a topic posted elsewhere about kits that maybe "should" be made. I'm needing some filter time but having leapt into scratchbuilding, I'm not sure what would be a good project. The Triton Cross-Section seems to have worked well... It's an interesting build, not too difficult, and by most standards, pretty quick depending on the builder and how complex they want to go. And it produces a nice model. The full-build.. not very successful as it's a huge time eater and complex. At this point, I'm not even considering the next model.. well.. I'm considering but not deciding, put it that way. Somewhere is a happy medium but darned if I know where it would be... perhaps, fittings... like Chuck suggested. Or maybe a mast mounted to a fake deck with deadeyes, full sails,and all the rigging.
  18. mtaylor
    Greg, Post a picture as it will help identify what needs to be done.
  19. mtaylor
    Gehard, See this topic... both G,Delcroix and Brian might have what you want. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13552-books-for-sale-hms-warrior-romero/
  20. mtaylor
    This is going to look great, Matt. Excellent wood choices and I admire the planking skill.
  21. mtaylor
    Alan, If there's a next time.... <fingers crossed for you> just put the part in a plastic tub like you so, add alcohol to cover and put the lid on. I found it seems to soak in and break apart the joint a lot faster on assemblies like that than the paper towel method. It still takes some time for the alcohol to evaporate from the wood, though.
  22. mtaylor
    Thanks, Siggi. I'm comparing the various ways of making these small boats for future reference.
  23. mtaylor
    Wow... what a concept and philosophy and then seeing that applied. I hope you have much success with this concept, Chuck and perhaps some others might come over to it.
  24. mtaylor
    Depending on the thickness of the wood, the most important thing will be the tooth count. While this is for the Byrnes saw, the tooth counts still apply for the various wood thicknesses: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php
  25. mtaylor
    Kudos, Chris for telling it like it is and to Druxey also. I think, in all the years of MSW (both 1.0 and 2.0 and even DDM) that there's only been one that has ended up being a historic and potentially valuable model. OTOH, we've had a few who have set out to restore granddad's model and have done well with guidance and help.

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