mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Bob, Are there any drawings showing the interior at this area? I'm wondering if they needed some extra space for the cabling they were laying. That is a strange looking box though and there appears to be some sort of piping/grating over the top, like a hopper.
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- pequot
- cable ship
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Looking good, Mark. Lots of us just follow and not always comment.
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Is the Caldercraft HMS Victory still the best?
mtaylor replied to yangliyuan's topic in Wood ship model kits
There is a new one coming at some point by VictoryModels/Amati : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/985-amati-and-chris-watton/ -
Congratulations, Grant, on a wonderful voyage and a great build. She looks super nice in her new home.
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- finished
- bomb ketch
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It was a first time for me also David. I've always used acetate and it just never looks "right".
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As Scooby would say: "Rut Row"
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These all good plans, lad. I'd say, pick one and run with it. Since it is a corner, check ye plans and see if the inside or outside planking attaches to it. That will add strength to the corner. As we know,the stern was the weak point on these vessels... A raking broadside astern was a terrible thing.
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A very clever solution, Christian. I never thought of that with regards to a dowel even though I've done similar to large planks.
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I looked that over... nice concept but... the acrylic hull/viewports makes me nervous and there's no maximum dive depth listed. I like it and it would be great for me, a couple of minions in spiffy uniforms and a white cat to get to the dead volcano island.
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Looks like marine diesel to me, Patrick. I don't think I'd try to put the Caterpillar logo on the rocker cover, however.
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So far, so good, Sean. Looks good from over here in the cheap seats... If you haven't done so, have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/ I think you're missing a step about "adding to post".
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I like the way the badges turned out, Pat. I suspect you're right about the way the shutters were hung. Any other way would put some added stress on the hardware. Nice metal work on the guns. I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out.
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- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
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Super nice, Popeye. I like the plain wood for this.
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The little things we never think about and then we see someone else do it and...as others have said... the light goes on.
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- greenwich hospital
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Hi Jose, thanks for the comments. I used Coreldraw to create a drawing and cut the windows out using the laser cutter. They're 1/32" thick (roughly 0.5mm) and the munnions and outside framing are the same. In the photo, the frames are on top and you can see the size by comparing them to the dime in the picture. To glaze them, I used MicroMark's Micro-Glaze. It's a white liquid that when dry is is clear and thin. Because the wood is so thin, I had to change the way I did it from the instructions because the frames warped badly. I put the window frame on a piece of polyethylene bag (the stuff sticks to everything else including glass) and filled the openings with the glazing. I put another piece of bag on top and then a piece of thick, heavy plate glass on top. I let it sit for 24 hours and remove the top glass and bag. At this point, the glaze was "set" but not dry and still white. I left off the bag and glass until it was almost clear. At this point the wood would start to warp again and I'd put the glass back on for another 12 hours or so. I hope that helps.
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Thanks for the likes and the comments. Hi Carl. Simply put, it's a question of does the moling go around the taffrail or just to it? I've been staring at the drawings (both NMM and Hahn's) a lot lately trying to sort out what carvings are there on the rail. I think I've got it sorted out and it's gonna' be tough. Hahn has a rough outlines of two figures and then some sort of vine or rope up higher. I think the NMM shows acanthus much like near the catheads.I think I got it sorted and have trimmed them. Thanks Charlie. That's not paint, BTW. The black on the framing is archival pen (like a Sharpie but not a Sharpie). The lights are 1/32" thick and the framing and munnions are a tad under 1/32" wide. Between each light is 1/32" thick ebony. The ink is there in case there's any gaps between them. More for peace of mind than anything else. Thanks, Scott. It's not that hard actually. Just a bit of a mindset. I do take a heck of a lot of photos during the build and usually rotate them 180 degrees to right side up to keep myself sane. Thanks, Pat. Hmm.. good question. Stern exterior, rudder, quarter galleries, a few details along the outside of the hull, and the cheeks and bow rails. I do flip it regularly to examine from a different perspective. I also want the interior and exterior mostly done before cutting her loose from the build board but that might change.
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I somehow missed this build. Fascinating work, Francesca.
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Ian, That picture is dead on. Looking at the breeching rings on the side, I'd say it's not French. And then I read the link.... yep.. not French so it should work for you. The same form and numbers of tackles would apply even though they were small by comparison to the main armament, they were still heavy. Just smaller lines. I believe the general rule of thumb is that the breeching ropes are same diameter as the bore. When in doubt, go with what you think is right or works.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
mtaylor replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful capstans, Paul. -
Sweet work, Denis. I'm waiting with you to see how the glazing turns out.
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Beautiful, Dave. I think you have a handle on these "over the top" decorated ships.
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- sovereign of the seas
- ship of the line
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