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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Augie, I get buried at work for a few days and at home with the new pup, and shazam! you're flying at the speed of sound. And it all looks perfect too. JPett, Go here for that review: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/341-micro-power-sanders/
  2. Carry on, sir. You've picked a fine project to apply what you've learned from the Snake.
  3. Beautiful work, Remco. I glad that working with plastic didn't hurt your wood skills.
  4. Well done all the way around, Tom. The moldings set it off nicely.
  5. AL typically includes a parts list by number. Look on the plans/instructions for the planking and see if it references. The size might also be in the instructions. AL is somewhat inconsistent about parts lists as well as what's in the instructions and plans.
  6. M. I've got two links... The first is has several articles on choosing a kit: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-plans-and-research.php This link has some articles on tool selection: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php
  7. That's a nice looking pile of frames. The raising part is where the fun begins. I'm looking forward to see her ribs in place.
  8. Spencer, JPett is correct on all his points. Which ship is this? Have you checked for other build logs to see if they had a similar issue? It's possible it's a design flaw or a manufacturing flaw.
  9. I'm going to copy your six points and put them on my workbench to remind me.... They are excellent. I like the nice touches like the white panels inset into the bulwarks. .
  10. Very nicely done. She's looking sweet. As for a figurehead, I'm not sure there would have been one especially on a merchant vessel.
  11. mij, If I may be so bold... how about starting a build log in the Scratch area, rather than here? This area is for reviews of books and magazines which is what this thread started out to be.
  12. Nice work and great pictures of the real thing. As for the rivet issue.. maybe a variation of a pouce wheel, but instead of making depressions or holes, use it to put down painted "dots" to simulate rivets. The question would be: "will anyone notice if they're NOT there?". I think it's similar to the issue with treenailing a wooden ship. If not visible at normal viewing distance, why do them, other than to know they are there?
  13. Richard, I'd bet dollars to donuts that they're "generic" much like the MicroMark. I've used the generics from Lowe's on my Micromark without issue. Just periodically clean off any remaining glue using some alcohol.
  14. Augie, Nice work. Good choice on the pencil sander. I'm finding a ton of uses for mine as I can control it a lot better than a Dremel.
  15. Ferit, Good to hear you are not giving up. Whew... I have the same competition urges at times, but have to remember that the only one I'm competing with is me. And that competition is to make each part as good as I can. I've found if I remember that, I get better. The Corel problem isn't uncommon. I think all the manufacturers misrepresent things on their kits. Sometimes it's major like making up a history and having a fictitious ship, other times it's minor like having the wrong size parts. The scale issue is a tough call. It's possible that they really don't what scale it is because they made the parts and wood sizes such to fit into a box of a standard size. If you can, get a copy of the plan and check the measurements. It could be close to the 1:50 but not exact. My Constellation was that way. What they called it for scale was off by a fair amount. I compensated and was happy.
  16. Ian, My apologies. I'm just catching up and am saddened by the loss of your furry shop steward. The stove is an incredible bit of modeling. Wow!!!!!!
  17. NIce work on an interesting vessel, Mick. We haven't seen too many of the non-gun type ships. I'll pull up a seat next to Sjors and popcorn machine when you get back to her.
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