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Kevin

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Posts posted by Kevin

  1. 16 hours ago, glbarlow said:

    It’s a tough question about being symmetrical or going for an improved look, one not easy to answer. On display only one side shows obviously but we as the builder know there is a difference. I’d recommend trying “bending the wrong way” method, once you learn it you’ll love the result. That’s second part of the process, the first are the tick strips, making it easier to understand where to start the taper and how much to cut from the plank for the taper and you’ll not need stealers. It takes longer, but it looks so much better. Perhaps blending the two methods so your other side is an improvement but still somewhat mirrors the first side. Also good call on the CA and how you applied it. I use CA medium for planking, edge gluing is never needed. You could even just spot glue about the distance between bulkheads and still be fine.
     

    One other suggestion is to consider a butt shift pattern, doesn’t matter how long or how spaced they are, just a consistent repeating pattern on where horizontal planks meet on your run bow to stern. 
     

    That said, your planking is well done, boxwood is such a nice wood. Once sanded and finish applied you’ll have a very fine looking model.  I’ll enjoy watching your progress on this excellent Vanguard model.  

    thank you for the reply, although im nearly finished the port side, just lots of filling and sanding now, the filling is coming from the sawdust collected from the sanding tool

    i think i will do this side different, using a combination of all the above, i ruled out the butt system as the planks are not consistent widths, and i thought against just cutting one board attaching and then on to the next, as you wont see the joints, the alternative is to try match enough boards to mix them about then attach

    im open to suggestions, 

     

  2. 2 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

    Hello Kevin

    Great work on your boxwood planking. I am about to start mine today and I have a couple of questions.

     

    Did you use ca or wood glue for the second planking?

    I noted in the build manual that Jim used Titebond wood glue for all second planking on the prototype. I am not how to get the second layer of planks to stay in contact with the hull as the glue starts to cure and grip without using pins. My current thinking, once I am happy the plank is ready to be added, is to apply some ca to the hull and to spray the planks with an activator before fitting.

     

    Did you use any lateral plank bends when adding the planks around the bow area?

    I noted you thought you started to taper to early. My initial thought will be to plank downward until I need to start to taper and then to divide the hull into bands for the the rest of the planking. I did find adding Chuck's lateral bending method to the planks on my first planking paid dividends around the bow area.

     

    Keep up the good work and informative build log.

     

    Thanks

    Glenn (UK)

    morning Glenn 

    i used CA throughout 2nd planking, only through the middle of the plank, i never deliberately did the edges, i didnt need to use activator this time as the runs were quite smooth, its nice to have had a decent 1st planking done

    no i didnt do any lateral bending, i wish i had though, thats why i i had to taper so early, oh hum , 

    of course i have now created another monster in deciding how to do the other side better, copy the port side for the symmetrical aspect of looking at her from the bow or try and improve

     

  3. good morning everyone

     

    thank you for comments and likes especially for my mum, she is coping in Hospital, but quite weak from the effects of Covid, the shock of what has happened.  Was meant to be transferred to the BRI in Bristol today to have a stint inserted, but will be delayed as she tested positive again on Sunday, but needs two concentrative  negative results for this procedure

     

    as for the build, im quite happy with the results on the port side a couple of sealers to still be put in. As  its my first ever hull to be left unpainted, i have made some mistakes, the obvious one is that i started tapering far to early and did far to much,  the result is that i had some silly planks to insert under the hull, we all live and learn, it would be a shame to paint it now, i just hope i can make it look far more presentable to allow her to be in just varnish

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  4. good evening everyone

    thank you for comments and likes

    day 40 port side 2nd planking in Boxwood

    things have calmed down in the household, mum is still in ospickle but she has now been given covid, after avoiding it for three years, so she is only allowed one visitor,  we have my sister visiting so as she dont live local she is seeing her and not me

    the planking continues, yes most can do it better, but i am happy with what i have produced so far, i think it will be acceptable, she will never make a show though

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  5. 42 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

    Thank you, I will have to excercise greater care and be prepared to take much more time when I start to add the boxwood planking. I will keep an eye on @Kevin 2nd planking progress as he is the current pathfinder for this model.

    lol i am certainly no pathfinder, just someone doing something a bit different and well out of my comfort zone, had i not been using boxwood, 2nd planking would have been finished by now

  6. good evening everyone

    day 34

    been a few days since my last post

    2nd planking is going on, its never as good as i envisage it to be, but considering im not painting it, its is better than i normally present my work

    the transom is in pear and i decided to remove it as i think it would look better in Boxwood, 

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  7. 28 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

    Planking in bands with lateral bends around the bow would be worth considering. I did add 3000+ copper tiles when I built Caldercraft's Victory which was a mammoth undertaking. The copper tape will be much easier to do if you decire to use it.

    i have no intentions to cover this hull, not with using boxwood

  8. 1 hour ago, realworkingsailor said:


    Possibly painted while in the dock. Surprisingly, with the right amount of labour a large ship can be fully sandblasted and painted in a remarkably short period of time (about a week).
    If the ship was in any way waterborne at the time, it shouldn’t have toppled like that, unless something serious was done to alter the CG of the ship. Most, if not all, commercial dry docks don’t use the old methods where there’s only a single row of blocks under the keel and shoring beams to hold the ship up. Although there are still more blocks down the centreline, there are typically one or more rows of blocks on each side, depending on how wide the ship is. 
     

    Submarines are, of course, the exception as they usually don’t have flat bottoms…. 😁 
     

    Andy

    each class of sub had its own set of curved blocks, however the old diesel boats had a flat bottom to enable sitting on the seabed, and i remember standard blocks with wooden props to keep her upright

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