HMS Warspite by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 scale - PLASTIC

[chj]

Would an upside-down fish tank work? Pet stores have sales of all glass fish tanks here in Houston,TX for a dollar a gallon.

[CDW]

27 minutes ago, chj said:

Would an upside-down fish tank work? Pet stores have sales of all glass fish tanks here in Houston,TX for a dollar a gallon.

Of all the suggestions so far, I believe this may be the most cost effective solution. Maybe not as aesthetically pleasing as a proper display case, but would keep the dust off and still allow a visual of all sides and top of the model. 

At least in the USA, used aquariums are sold for pennies on the dollar in thrift shops and even given away for free in classified sections of newspapers sometimes. 

[Old Collingwood]

31 minutes ago, CDW said:

Of all the suggestions so far, I believe this may be the most cost effective solution. Maybe not as aesthetically pleasing as a proper display case, but would keep the dust off and still allow a visual of all sides and top of the model. 

At least in the USA, used aquariums are sold for pennies on the dollar in thrift shops and even given away for free in classified sections of newspapers sometimes. 

Might be worth a look,   or failing that I could resort to using the box the kit came in,   turn it on its side and make a clear window for the front,  I know that way it would be the exact size and cost nothing except something to cover the front with - clingfilm etc (isnt that stuff supposed to be able to go taught if heated with a hairdryer - or am I thinking of something else?)

 

OC.

[Jack12477]

Something else!  What you are thinking of is the clear wrap you put over windows to seal out winter cold drafts aka " poor man's storm window".  Food cling wrap will work for you.

Edited September 13, 2018 by Jack12477

[BANYAN]

OC, what about a baseboard with a brass/iron wire frame then cover that with thick clear plastic (hardware shops stock this).  The wire could be form as 2 x U shapes along the longer axis and inserted into holes in the baseboard..  Alternate is to use wood dowel or square section rounded where it is inserted into the baseboard, then glue the cellophane/plastic (such as that used in shirt boxes etc) onto the wood.  You could stain the wood dowel the same as the baseboard?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Old Collingwood]

43 minutes ago, Jack12477 said:

Something else!  What you are thinking of is the clear wrap you put over windows to seal out winter cold drafts aka " poor man's storm window".  Food cling wrap will work for you.

Thanks Jack.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

16 minutes ago, BANYAN said:

OC, what about a baseboard with a brass/iron wire frame then cover that with thick clear plastic (hardware shops stock this).  The wire could be form as 2 x U shapes along the longer axis and inserted into holes in the baseboard..  Alternate is to use wood dowel or square section rounded where it is inserted into the baseboard, then glue the cellophane/plastic (such as that used in shirt boxes etc) onto the wood.  You could stain the wood dowel the same as the baseboard?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Thank you for the idea pat  but a bit to much work as I will be placing her in a proper case around xmas time when I can buy one.

 

OC.

[cog]

I think Pat meant those plastic garden vegetable covers, like this:

but instead of half round, squarish. You only need a plank, two or three pieces if metal wire and clear plastic

[popeye the sailor]

catching up on your project OC.........she's coming along nicely      good info about paint.......while I use enamels,  I also wipe the rim and caps.  it helps to give a good seal,  and keeps the caps from being stuck on.........hate using pliers to open paint bottles.   I still have a fair selection of Billing's paint,  which by now has become quite old.   I'm not sure how long Tom had them before he sent them to me,  but I've opened some to find that they've either jelled or separated to a concrete layer on the bottom.   a friend of mine took a model boat propeller and made a mixer using a small electric motor.....it worked well for him.   I had to break his bubble and show him that they do make them for purchase.   Badger has one:

micro mark has one:

or..........if your the DYI type,  you can either use a reciprocating saw,  or a jig saw   

[popeye the sailor]

I cover over my projects with cut up tee shirts,  long sections like a tarp or shroud.  once they are masted or to the point where delicate parts are added,  it's a bit harder to do.......an over sized box usually does the trick {cut the flaps off,  so they don't get in the way}.

[lmagna]

1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

if your the DYI type,  you can either use a reciprocating saw,  or a jig saw

That is my favorite!!!! I could also make a special saw blade for my saws-all and just clip it in when needed.

[popeye the sailor]

the reciprocating saw looked even funnier.......especially when taking into account how fast the blade moves      really not a bad idea though, with how long some of my paints sit around.

[cog]

if you take a long blade, you can do multiple pots/jars at once  

[lmagna]

45 minutes ago, cog said:

if you take a long blade

Yeah, some of my Sawzall blades are something like 9" long! I could shake the whole box of paints at the same time!

 

MORE POWER!

 

With the small amount of paint in modeling jars there may not be enough stirring action in the jar to get the job done on some older, thicker paints though where you really need a stick or the spinning prop idea.

 

HMMM! I do have an old milkshake making machine down in the basement. Ideas are starting to form! Beware.... Evil scientist at work! 

Edited September 13, 2018 by lmagna

[mtaylor]

Be careful with that milkshake mixer, Lou.   I have visions of you covered in paint.

 

You might try a shaped paper clip cut down and used at low speed in a slow speed drill (not a dremal).  You want the paint mixed, not whipped and full of air. I've done this in the past but practice on an empty jar that has some water in it so as not to irritate the admiral if things get out of hand.

[Old Collingwood]

Good evening all,   after a day off  I decised to get back to the ole girl,  so next step was to construct A and B turrets with the associated bits and pieces that go on them (just the same as X and Y turrets.

 

I took a few pics of all the bits sofar dry fitted and put inside the box (I will keep it like this but with the front with some clear covering)

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Good day all,   just a small update today  - I painted up both A and B turrets and weathered them slightly  then glued them inplace.

 

I took the ole girl outside and took a few shots with my dslr.

 

OC.

[zappto]

Very nicely done,  i really like color scheme!

[Old Collingwood]

10 minutes ago, zappto said:

Very nicely done,  i really like color scheme!

Thank you so much.

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

Looks great, OC.  

[Old Collingwood]

2 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Looks great, OC.  

Thanks mark,    some way to go yet though.

 

OC.

[CDW]

All that natural light sure does make those colors pop out nicely. Probably the DSLR hlps, too. But OC, she is looking mighty, mighty fine. Well done! 

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

All that natural light sure does make those colors pop out nicely. Probably the DSLR hlps, too. But OC, she is looking mighty, mighty fine. Well done! 

Thank you kindly,  I have the front mast, wiring, a couple of small bits including the flag staffs, then the railings before I put it away awaiting the oerks.

 

OC.

[popeye the sailor]

you get a big thumbs up from me as well OC.............she's look'in great!   the outdoor pictures are especially nice.  

[Kevin]

Lovely work, she looks great in then natural sunlight

 

[Old Collingwood]

21 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

you get a big thumbs up from me as well OC.............she's look'in great!   the outdoor pictures are especially nice.  

Thank you so much denis.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

8 minutes ago, Kevin said:

Lovely work, she looks great in then natural sunlight

 

Thank you kevin.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

After a couple of days off - I returned to the bench,   she is on the finishing strait now   -  todays work was with the forward mast, I decised to combine the kit parts and the top starfish platform pe parts,  I decided to do it like this to add strength by combining both parts.

 

Its completed minus the 281 RDF aerial and the mast ladder.

 

Just a couple of pics.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,    more work today - still on the forward mast,  I constructed and fitted one of the starfish boxes, then attached the post ladder, then I painted the lower half, while it was set aside to dry I constructed the type  281 radar aerial,  this is fiddly box like construction and needs bending in on four sides,  then the awkward part started - the radar (box)  has two tiny holes that are supposed to drop over the end of the mast, these are real tinty,  so no amount of thining the plastic mast would do - it was becoming too fragile, so plan number two  - use another of my tiny drill bits like I did before, this was simple with the aerial, just pop it through the holes and add  ca glue (job done)  but the fiddly part was to drill a pilot hole in the top section of the mast after cutting off the kit part, this of course snapped away  and I had to make up a stronger joining section for the part I had drilled a pilot hole in,  a piece of dowel came to my rescue and the radar and top mast was glued to that with ca.

 

So here are a few pics showing how the forward mast looks just dry fitted for now.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Good evening all,    I thought I would give a bit of an update  (no pictures with it so you will have to make do with my writting content (sorry)

anyway I have continued working on the foremast - I gave the rest of it a coat of paint or two,  then I put it aside to dry.

I then turned my attention to the main superstructure - this needed some ladders and a bit of touch up here and there,  I then found a fab photo on the IWM site showing the cable routing and flag ropes and to my supprise where I had covered a cut out in the floor of the signaling deck - there is one surrounded by a curved shield.

So I meesed around with one of my spare ork tubs and sanded it down in height, but also gave it a square end taht will sit aginst the flag lockers,  I also cut it back underneath to give it a semi circuler cut out,  the idea is  - I will attache some railing around the top rim of it and attach some fine copper wire to this, that will be attached to the lower yard arm on the mast when I attach it (well  thats the idea)

 

OC.