HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

Robert29 · December 9, 2017

Paul, thank you for your comments, and for bringing to my attention that each row overlaps by 1/3 and not by 1/2. Yes true, I agree with you, the caldercraft copper plates are also not correct as they are laid one next to the other, no overlapping. I will probably leave the planking showing.

Richard, thank you for your info, I will keep it in mind if I decide to copper.

Christos, thank you, I am am definitely enjoying building this ship, moving slowly, because I work on it when I really feel like, I don't work on it to get a job over and done with. I like to keep it a hobby not a job to finish. Well, the lights on the upper deck have to be different as they will be showing not like the other decks below. I have already been thinking about it and have tried a prototype of a lantern. This is what I have come up with until now.

I sourced copper tubes with an inside diameter same as the outside diameter of the LED's I am using.

Cut a small piece and saw off a couple of slots on each side.

Slide them in each other.

And this is the result.

Still needs some finishing touches. When it is to my satisfaction I will prepare a few of them.

Robert

Edited December 9, 2017 by Bertu

MESSIS · December 10, 2017

Robert thats a wonderfull idea you came up with! It looks very realistic... am definitely going to copy you in a future project 😈. I wish you lots o fan.

Christos

Edited December 10, 2017 by MESSIS

Richardjjs · December 10, 2017

Yes looks really good

Waiting for my Amati Victory as a completely new project Hopefully it will be released before 2020 Will use this for that

Robert29 · May 18, 2018

Hello Friends,

It’s been a long time since my last post, some work had cropped up which took priority over my hobby. Here is an update of the work I managed since then. In the meantime I also did some changes to my hobby room.

Hobby Room

I made a new 3 meter work top with three drawer units for storage. I share half of the work top with my son who is presently studying electrical engineering. Now I must invest in a more comfortable chair.

Inner Bulwark

I added some more detail to the inner bulwark. Added the beam shelf and the stringer. Then I added the waterway which I made from 1mm x 1mm walnut strips, rounded one edge and painted black before fixing.

I made a quick jig to mark the position on the bulwark for the eyelet arrangement for the canon tackle. I drilled all the holes ready to take the eyelets later on.

I also experimented a bit with blackening the brass eyelets. I bought a bottle of blackening staff, mixed it with water as per instructions, cleaned the eyelets in white vinegar and according to the instructions after 30 min they should turn black. Nothing happened!!! I cleaned the eyelets in white spirit and after 30min still nothing happened. I left the eyelets in the blackening liquid for the night and next day they were black. Basically, to turn really black I had to leave them a couple of days. Why, I don’t know, maybe the material. Now I ordered the Birchwood Brass Black and will try that as I intend to do the canons as well.

Gratings

Prepared the gratings for the upper gun deck. The coamings for the gratings which are hardly going to show I mitred the corners. For those which are going to show more I dovetailed the corners.

..

Ladders

When I came to the ladders and took out the 2mm Walnut Sheet 3 for the ladder sides I was very disapointed the way they were splintered. There was no way I was going to use them. I sent an image to JoTiKa and asked for a replacement. I immediately received a reply from them confirming that thay posted a replacement and not only that, the new ones were made of solid walnut instead of plywood which were much better. I received it in just a few days. Very good service from JoTiKa, really helpfull.

I made a jig to cut the treads for the ladders all equal lengths.

Hull

Painted all the gunport linings in red ochre and the hull sides in yellow ochre. Next step is to mark and paint the black bands.

Hope not to take long for more updates.

Regards

Robert

Edited May 18, 2018 by Bertu

md1400cs · May 18, 2018

Robert,

Nice update indeed.

PS: The word Envious just came to my mind I wonder why?

Robert29 · May 21, 2018

Thank you for your nice comment Michael. And thank you for the likes.

I have another small update. Today I finished the black bands on the side of the hull.

Robert

michael101 · May 26, 2018

Amazing work !!!!

Robert29 · June 8, 2018

Thank you Michael, and thank you for the likes.

Another small update. I started work on the canons for the Upper gundeck, but I decided to add the breach at the back of the canons, tried one of the eyelets supplied with the kit, but I think they are just a bit too small. I ordered some eyelets, just a bit larger to try them. I will put up photos when I receive them and fit them. Whilst waiting for the new eyelets to arrive I started some work on the lanterns I am putting on the same gundeck.

This is the way I am making them. I am working them on my Proxxon drill and stand I bought lately, found it really good. I had put up a post about this lantern earlier, but at that time I did not have the Proxxon drill and stand, I had cut the slots with a saw blade. This way it is much quicker and more accurate.

First 'cut' in the brass tube

Second 'Cut'

Third 'Cut'

Fourth 'Cut'

Cut Off

Clean

Try Fit

I will make a few more of them, quite quick to make, then I will paint them black, seal the bottom and finish the top.

Robert

Edited June 8, 2018 by Bertu

md1400cs · June 8, 2018

Robert,

As Michael101 just posted amazing work indeed.

Regarding your "how to" for the lanterns. A big thanks. I had seen your previous post for these.

Tried to copy your technique for installing same in my current build. Just did not look well executed. You SOLVED this by posting how you did this. Very clever

solution. Thanks for the time it took helping others - Will certainly be "the" solution for many of us who want to include working lanterns.

PS: Regarding my previous envious comment - it was about your awesome shipyard set up :imNotWorthy: . and, of course, your skills on this build.

Regards,

Edited June 8, 2018 by md1400cs

Robert29 · June 29, 2018

Thank you Michael for your nice comments, I took a lot of ideas from other builders in this forum, so I'm glad that sometimes I can be of a little help to others.

I am preparing items that go on the upper gundeck. There is a lot of work on this deck that unfortunately will hardly show once the quarterdeck is fitted. My only consolation is that since I am fitting the lanterns they might show a bit more, hopefully!!!

This is the finished lantern. I prepared a few of them which I will install and wire just before I fit the quarterdeck.

I decided to add the breach rings on the cannons. I am using the eyelets (480) supplied with the kit. Drilling the holes on the cannons was quite straight forward, I thought it was going to be more awkward due to the very small size of the eyelets. All cannons are drill but I still need to fit the eyelets.

Also started work on the carriages. Removed all upper gun deck carriage parts from sheet, cleaned and prepared the holes for the eyelets to go on them. I think it is much easier to drill them now then when the carriage is assembled.

This is the jig I made to assemble them, quite crude but worked really well.

Painting the carriages. Given them two coats, still another coat to go.

I intend to blacken the cannons after I fit them with the breach rings. Hope all goes well with the blackening.

Robert

michael101 · July 1, 2018

As always !!! You doing beutifule work !!!

:dancetl6:

Edited July 1, 2018 by michael101

Robert29 · July 9, 2018

Still working on the cannons.

After removing the wheels from the sheets I put some super glue on some of the wheel edges as some of them were easily splintered. Inserted them in a toothpick and sanded them together. Marked the wheel bolts and varnished them.

I decided to solder the trunnions to the cannons. Since I intend to blacken the cannons I thought that any solder on the outside might give me problems when blackening so I used the following method.

Grinded a small notch in the middle of the trunnion

Filled it with solder, let it cool

Inserted the trunnion in the cannon and heated the cannon with a gas soldering gun to melt the solder inside.

Then I came to the trunnion brackets. To shape them by hand one by one was very difficult to keep them uniform and time consuming, so I thought of a jig. I found a piece of small metal angle and fitted two pieces next to each other in a piece of hard wood as shown, leaving a groove between them just a bit more then the diameter of the 1.5mm brass wire to be used for the trunnions. Took a piece of a dowel and at one end I made a small groove and glue in it a piece of the 1.5mm wire, leaving half of its diameter protruding out.

Cut the trunnion bracket from the brass sheet, trim it and place it across the groove.

Place the dowel with the brass rod facing down on the bracket along the groove and just give it a slight tape with a small hammer. The brackets are very thin and soft so a small tap is enough.

This is the result. Quite neat and quite easy.

Hopefully I will soon be putting the cannons, carriages, brackets, eyelets all together.

Robert

Edited July 9, 2018 by Bertu

Seventynet · July 9, 2018

Beautiful work Robert and ingenious solutions, methods that I am sure to employ myself.

Ian

6ohiocav · July 10, 2018

Robert,

Your build is incredible, and I have been silently admiring it for a while.

I have to agree with Ian. These are great tips and will surely find their way into my repertoire going forward. Thanks for sharing.

Robert29 · July 16, 2018

Quote

Ian and Darrell thank you for your nice comments.

Cannons, cannons, cannons ...... never ending.

I had tried blackening some small pieces and nearly gave up as it did not go so well but after looking into Graham's build and seeing the result I decided to give it another go with a different solution 'Birchwood Brass Black', same Graham (Charter33) used. I tried it on the small brass items for the cannons, trunnion brackets, eyelets and pins, and it worked like a charm. I cleaned them in acetone , dipped them in the Birchwood Brass Black and in 30 seconds they were ready.

Wanting to add the rings on the side of the carriages I ordered the rings from CBM, part no. 36750, which included the ring and the eyelet for the ring.

The actual rings were ok but the eyelets for the ring (on the left) in my opinion were too bulky. I used just the ring and inserted them in the eyelets (480) supplied with the kit. Finished item on the right.

The hooks supplied with the kit were too large for the cannon tackles, so I decided to make smaller hooks myself.

To make the hooks I used the same eyelets which I got from CMB and did not use.

Robert

Edited July 16, 2018 by Bertu

Robert29 · August 26, 2018

Blackened the upper gun deck 30 cannons with Birchwood Casey Black Brass. Found very good blackening hints on Graham's (Charter33) build log.

Cannons cleaned in acetone

Drying after blackened in Birchwood Casey Brass Black and rinsed in water. The three cannons on the left are already wiped with a cloth to remove the black dusty residue left on the cannons after drying.

All 30 cannons wiped clean and polished with Carnauba Car Wax.

For the carriages that are going to be under the skid beam assembly I added some more detail to carriage wheel shafts. I didn't like the squarish shaft protruding from the wheels. Bought some eyelets (C83506) from CMB, widened the hole to fit the shaft and cut off the eyelet leg leaving just a short piece. Blackened them, glued over the shaft and painted end of shaft black.

Fitted eyelets to carriages, except for the once with the ring to take the breaching rope on the side of the carriages. In the image they are only dry fitted. These will be fitted later on when fitting the cannons to the carriages.

Cannons will be fitted to carriage with the brackets, with the breaching rope already fitted with the eyelets and passed through the breaching ring at the back of the cannon.

Robert

Richardjjs · August 26, 2018

1 hour ago, Bertu said:

Blackened the upper gun deck 30 cannons with Birchwood Casey Black Brass. Found very good blackening hints on Graham's (Charter33) build log.

Cannons cleaned in acetone

Drying after blackened in Birchwood Casey Brass Black and rinsed in water. The three cannons on the left are already wiped with a cloth to remove the black dusty residue left on the cannons after drying.

All 30 cannons wiped clean and polished with Carnauba Car Wax.

For the carriages that are going to be under the skid beam assembly I added some more detail to carriage wheel shafts. I didn't like the squarish shaft protruding from the wheels. Bought some eyelets (C83506) from CMB, widened the hole to fit the shaft and cut off the eyelet leg leaving just a short piece. Blackened them, glued over the shaft and painted end of shaft black.

Fitted eyelets to carriages, except for the once with the ring to take the breaching rope on the side of the carriages. In the image they are only dry fitted. These will be fitted later on when fitting the cannons to the carriages.

Cannons will be fitted to carriage with the brackets, with the breaching rope already fitted with the eyelets and passed through the breaching ring at the back of the cannon.

Robert

Superb detail Gun Carriage sides have to painted because they are not solid wood!

Don't forget the main tackle passes through the Eyelets on the Carriage side

Also Caldercraft rigging of the guns is not 100% accurate

The lashed tackle may be correct while the ship was in harbour but at Sea the Barrel is unseated and lashed to the ship's side (Double lashed in a heavy storm) Note the rear tackle is removed as it is a trip hazard (Both in harbour and at sea)
THe rear tackle is only used to pall the gun out in case of a miss fire or to change to load of the gun

THe lashing would be coiled at action stations

Robert29 · September 2, 2018

A quick update, more work on the cannons. No wonder Robert22564 in his build log once referred to them as the frigging carriages, there is so much work on them.

Prepared the breaching ropes with an eyelet and passed through the eyelet at the back of the cannon.

Fitted trunnion brackets to carriages. Marked pilot holes for each individual bracket.

Drilled holes for pins on drill stand.

Fitted brackets with pins.

All 30 cannons (one missing , it is rigged on deck to check the lengths for the breaching ropes) ready with breaching ropes passed through rings of carriages. The eye pins were small enough to pass through the rings. You have to be careful when rigging the eyelets to the breaching rope to have a neat knot that passes through the ring as well.

Next step are the tackles. Have to experiment a bit with the size of the hooks.

Robert

Edited September 2, 2018 by Bertu

James H · September 2, 2018

Sterling work.

Despite the work and relative monotony, that is a very sweet set of completed guns.

michael101 · October 8, 2018

stunning work !!!!!!

you always doing the best !!!!

Kevin · October 8, 2018

Hard to believe I also did that much work then ripped all out, lovely work on your build

ronald305 · October 9, 2018

Hi Robert -nice job you did on the cannons and their rigging and the knowledge you gave us on the subject of rigging them may I ask where do you acquired the information about the cannon rigging thank you

Ronald

Edited October 9, 2018 by ronald305
typo

Robert29 · October 10, 2018

Thank you all for the likes and comments. They are much appreciated as they encourage me to keep me going especially when I encounter certain problems on how to proceed. That is the beautiful thing of being in a forum, when you are stuck you can search on other builds, ask, and get new ideas from other builders. Its also nice to share your ideas with others.

James - True having so much cannons sometimes it tends to get monotonous, but in the end you will be glad to take the time to finish them to your best abilities. When you take short cuts you are always disappointed later on. Thank you for your nice comments.

Michael - Not always the best, but I try my best. You yourself are doing a very good job on your Victory build.

Kevin - Thank you, I follow your build with interest. Very nice work.

Ronald - When I started on the cannons I was quite confused on how to do the rigging. In the kit instruction manual there aren't much details on how to do them. It gives you the position of the eyelets on the bulwark and there is an image of a completed cannon which is not so clear, on other build you find different ways how they went about it. To be honest I did not take the details from just one source, I sourced images of the HMS Victory cannons on the internet, Richdsjjs had also posted some diagrams on my log, and sort of tried to do the best I could from what I gathered. I can point out some points how I went about it.

The kit does not mention anything on the ring at the back of the cannon for the breaching rope. I decided to add this detail, and found some good ideas from other builders on this forum. I also added the side rings for the breaching rope which I noticed in actual images on the internet and also noticed that some builders added them as well. They are a nice detail.

For the tackles the instruction manual tells you to use two single blocks. In reality it is one single block and one double block. Also there is a ring attached to the eyelet on the bulkhead and the tackle is hooked to this ring. I tried to make it likewise but the problem was that by using a double block, which is larger, the ring and a hook, the two blocks at each end of the tackle were going to be too much near each other, hardly any space between them. In my opinion it did not look good and most of the details against the bulwark will be lost anyway once the quarterdeck is installed. I decided to just add a hook on the side of the tackle that hooks to the eyelet on the side of the carriage. On a large scale it would not be a problem to add all this detail, but on a small scale it is a bit difficult and of course it also depends on the ability of the builder. Other builders might not find it a problem to add more details. As for the tackle behind the cannon I still have to decide as again it depends on what space I am going to remain with between the two block. In my opinion sometimes it is better to omit some details then try to cram them all in a very small space and don't look good at all. I have noticed that some builders omitted the tackles completely except for the once directly under the quarterdeck opening, which I understand as it is true that you are hardly going to see anything once the quarter deck is fitted, and it is quite a lot of work. But since I am having lights in there I thought I better make them to make sure that if anything shows through the cannon ports it will look better. I might have done them for nothing, only time will tell. Ronald, when you come to them if you want details that I can help you with feel free to ask.

Wallace - Thank you for your nice comment. Unfortunately at the moment I do not have any updates as I had to slowdown on the build because of some work I have to finish, but hopefully I will soon have hands on deck again and be able to post an update.

Robert

ronald305 · October 10, 2018

thank Robert

for the information on the rigging o the cannons I'll just have to research the cannons later

when I reach that point of the build

Ronald

jimvanlan99 · October 11, 2018

Robert,

I really appreciate all of the detail you have provided on how to do the cannons and their carriages. This is a great tutorial! And the work you have done (I agree that taking shortcuts is seldom satisfactory in the end) is simply superb. Thank you. Your "tutorial"

will be of great use when I get to the point on Fair American that I want to work on the cannons. Of course, I only have a total

of 14 cannons compared to the many more that you have done!

Thank you.

Jim

Richmond · October 11, 2018

Wonderful, capital!

Robert29 · November 5, 2018

More work on the upper gun deck.

Fitted gratings and ladders in place.

My idea is to prepare as much as possible work that has to be done on the upper gun deck before I start installing the cannon carriages with their rigging in place to avoid as much as possible handling on deck after cannons are in place. At the same time I want to avoid installing the fixings on the upper deck to have more elbow space to fit the carriages and rig them in place.

Skid Beam Assembly and Bitt Pins ready and checked they fit well on upper gun deck with quarter deck (446) in place.

Upper gun deck screen bulkhead trimmed and ready to be fitted. Balusters for stairs and part of the pillars prepared as well.

This is how the lanterns are to be fitted. Wiring will be done when everything is in place just before I install the quarterdeck.

Robert

Edited November 5, 2018 by Bertu
Double Image

Robert29 · November 23, 2018

Thank you Wallace,

Finally fixing the fittings I have been preparing for the upper gun deck

A quick jig to glue the ladders in place

Carriages glued in place with breaching rope eyelets fixed to the bulwark.

Tackles at the back of the carriages finished with a hook I made from the eyelets (480) supplied with the kit.

I added some detail to the cannons that will be showing through skid beam assembly. I bought these monograms from Syren Ship Model Company.

Carriages all glued in place.

Finishing the tackles at the back of the cannons. I found these wire holders really useful to hold the ropes in place while knotting them.

Making the side tackles

Squaring the ends of the pillars. A piece of grooved scrap wood became very handy.

Companionway guard rails in place.

I finished the ends of the rails to the truncheons by seizing imitation. Thread wound round a needlepoint, covered with CA glue, pulled out of needle and cut to small pieces. Rail end passed first through one of them, through truncheon and back through seizing imitation.