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Posted

This build is breathtaking, Amalo.

I see you cherish your tools; not many know how to put a plane down. I was taught never to put one down on its foot, I see you contrive to support them properly.

As you say, perfection is elusive and there are just a few details you've decided to live with, such as a few planks on the stern round up.

 

How do you avoid dust/shavings dropping irretrievably into the warren of the hull?

Posted

I always back off the blade when I'm done so setting them flat on the table isn't an issue but while the blade is extended I lay it on its side.

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Posted
22 hours ago, giampieroricci said:

que precisión y que limpieza!!!

¡Eres uno de los mejores modelistas que conozco! ¡Sin par!

 

Una pregunta: ¿dejará las bisagras del timón en latón o usará bruñidor?

 

(Como me encantan esos aviones tuyos!!!)

Thank you very much, Giampiero.
I think that trying to age things, on many occasions, spoils them. We all know that those hinges actually looked very different but what we are doing is a model in which finesse, delicacy and cleanliness are very important elements. I like them a lot and that is how they will stay.
Once again, thanks Giampiero.

AMALIO

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Posted

Amalio - 

 

Let me join with all your other fans to say what a wonderful woodworker you are.

I am frequently inspired when looking at your precision and perseverence.

Many of my models, even the museum pieces, are done in 12 months or less

While yours is still in the dockyard after more than 12 years.

 

My hat is definitely off to you, sir.

 

Dan

Current build -Khufu solar barge, c. 2,560 BCE, a cross-section model at 1:10 scale

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration,  SS Mayaguez (c.1975)

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

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Posted

Hola Amalio,

 

Disculpa si ya lo has explicado, en las 34 páginas que lleva tu hilo no he sabido encontrarlo. Tengo alguns dudas y me gustaría exponerlas: ¿Empezaste diseñando un molde propio o es un modelo comercial usado como molde? Si es un molde que has realizado tú mismo, imagino que es doble trabajo tener que hacer las formas del casco exactas para el molde (exterior) y cortar el interior de las cuadernas para que encajen con el exterior del molde ¿Qué beneficio tiene este doble trabajo? Lo único que se me ocurre es algún modo de producción que te permite hacer más de un modelo del mismo buque pero no acabo de ver el proceso de trabajo.

 

En cualquier caso, muchas gracias por aclarar mis dudas.

 

 

Hi Amalio,

 

I have some questions about your work method, and I did not find an explanation in the 34 pages of the thread, my apologies if that is already answered. Here the quesions: it is the mold your own production or is an commercial model adapted? Is it's your own production, I can only imagine that, that implies double work: the exact form for the mold (exterior), and the exact form for the ribs (intern side). If so, what the advantages are of this method? I can guess something related to make a series of ships, but I cannot see how this method can help.

 

Anyway, thank you very much for answering my questions.

 

 

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