HMAS Vendetta 1925 by cog, popeye the sailor, and RGL - FINISHED - Showcase Models -1/350 - PLASTIC

[Old Collingwood]

35 minutes ago, RGL said:

Light hull grey from Gunze, I won’t use Vajello as it does not like me. 

Thats because you kept shouting at it.

 

OC.

[RGL]

It just completely clogs my H&S airbrush regardless of thinning. Tamiya and Gunze are just soo much easier. 

 

Hull numbers and depth markers added. 

[lmagna]

13 minutes ago, RGL said:

It just completely clogs my H&S airbrush

It could be that my CHEAP China junk brush just didn't care all that much or even that I did use a wetting solution to slow down drying, (To get a polished look) or just a matter that my skill level with an airbrush is not even in the same hemisphere, (Pun intended) as yours and I am not attempting the same level of application as you are able to obtain and seem to do effortlessly.

 

Thanks for the knowledge though. I'll try to not forget it this time.  

[RGL]

Hull grunge. I used diluted light grey to dull down the red hull, then diluted black to blend that in, then some green for alge and finally some more light grey to put a tide mark on the boot strap using a piece of paper as a mask. Not overly noticeable but it makes it all less shiny. 

[CDW]

Greg, you just keep getting better, more better, and more better good with your airbrushed hulls. You've really developed the talent and paint combinations for weathering, shading, and highlighting. 

[RGL]

Thanks, I think if I hadn’t done the ribs I would have made it a lot dirtier. There’s a guy called Koppeleski from up Cogs way who has posted his finished models on here, who has build logs on another site that I pretty much try and emulate. 

Edited June 5, 2018 by RGL

[Old Collingwood]

What truly amazes me (in a good way)  is the way this kit shows the corect shape of the bend of the deck towards the bow,  a few kits of these generic destoyer models do not have the correct shape, requiring some radiacl re shaping.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Its called sheer  isnt it?

 

OC.

[BenF89]

Sheer, yes - the ‘bend upward’ of the deck towards the bow when looking at the side. It’s a tricky line to get correct, even when designing, since it curves in two directions- in towards the centerline,  and up (or, in some cases, down). Get it just a little off and there’s a can’t-quite-place-it ‘wrongness’ about how the boat looks.

Edited June 5, 2018 by BenF89

[Old Collingwood]

5 minutes ago, BenF89 said:

Sheer, yes - the ‘bend upward’ of the deck towards the bow when looking at the side. It’s a tricky line to get correct, even when designing, since it curves in two directions- in towards the centerline,  and up (or, in some cases, down). Get it just a little off and there’s a can’t-quite-place-it ‘wrongness’ about how the boat looks.

Thanks ben,   much appreciated.

 

OC.

[RGL]

The final bits, replacement Carley flairs and the paravane cranes which are possibly some of the most high stress PE to build. I accidentally destroyed 1 of the 6 supplies so I used a couple of spare brass ones to put amidships. 

 

Lots of primer painting tommorow. 

[RGL]

So excluding railings, a fair bit of detail to go. 

Edited June 5, 2018 by RGL

[lmagna]

2 hours ago, RGL said:

I pretty much try and emulate. 

I think you are way past emulating and well into creating in your own right. 

[cog]

Odd, I used my H&S with Vallejo without that problem. I do have a problem with their primer on plastic. It just doesn't adhere to it. Masking will rip it of as if it hasn't bonded ... I now use Tamiya for that, and I do not have any problems anymore.

 

Denis,

For the hull I used Valleyo AIr fire red 71.084 with a few drops of white, could have added a few more, however, if you'll overspray, thin the red down, and follow gregs lead in layers. The thinning makes the primer shine through, as you'll probably know, useful if you use a light or medium grey primer. Normally I would use dark grey or black primer beneath red or dark green colours, but I need to readjust with airbrushing, just like I am used to mixing colours - like with painting with gouache, which isn't always necessary or can even work against you when using an airbrush. The grey is Tamiya sky grey XF-19

 

RGL,

Looking like a well used ship, luckily I do not have a lot of your detail ... at least, it only seems that way ... I found some cable reals PE in my drawer with lost items for 1/700 which I will use to replace the one a midships. The ones from Musashi are far to big. Nearly ready with the steam winches used to tow the paravanes (drawing post #1) a missing item in the kit. Got informed Yesterday some resin parts I ordered, are finally shipped, took them about a month to tell those items were OOS, I can sit and wait for the postman to ring twice ...

 

P.s. I think Lou is right, Greg, you are way past emulating ...

[RGL]

I reckon it’s because the water goes down the sink with the opposite spin that causes the Vajello not to work down here. Ive just picked up the next build which is going to be an exercise in hull grunge. 

 

What resin did you order? I’m thinking a few days on the airbrush will have me ready for weathering. 

 

 

[cog]

Or it's the climate. Hope the hull is big enough to keep you busy for a while. You'll be running out of space soon, if you continue with this pace. Besides, you may have complied to wifey's no-pub demand, I am most certain, you cannot fill up the house with models, grunged or not ... By the way, why don't you make your own hull, vacuum pulled, and than grunge that one, it will keep you busy for a while, so we can catch up with you ...

 

North Star, bridge furniture, like a lazy couch for the cap'n, rocking chair for the bosun, slings for the monkeys, you know, the regular stuff ...

 

I've got a G-type destroyer 1/350 coming in ... should arrive this week, another smallish build, trying to get my hand around details ... fortunately the Fokker Dr 1, it fits the palm of my hand,  is hughe so that compensates.

Edited June 5, 2018 by cog

[RGL]

What’s a G type? 

 

Is Mushasi getting finished? 

 

Sang Yan Park is planning to release a Soviet destroyer upgrade from Infini Models late this year ( I hope) so that would be the third of the Russians.

Edited June 5, 2018 by RGL

[cog]

I'm making a tool to get the hull plating scratched onto it. After that, airbrushing the superstructure which is fixed to the deck, then adding parts of the wooden deck which will be impossible to add once the deck is fitted, subsequently mounting the decks to the hull, more masking and painting the hull ... wish I bought the new tool version, but that, my friend, is watching the cow in the hiney, as we say up here.

 

Sorry, G class ... got it at not even half the price of this one ... you should know it, for you got the PE for it from white ensign models ...

Edited June 5, 2018 by cog

[RGL]

Yes, the PE that is fairly useless to me. So overpriced. 

 

You don’t need need to make a tool, just a couple of rattle cans. Once you get it about .1mm thick you can just press in the hull plates. Much easier and safer than cutting plastic. 

[cog]

I cut the plastic on Vendetta, and didn't find it to hard ...

 

You jinxed me ... vallejo air clogged my airbrush!!! Fortunately I was only spraying the white patches on the Dr. 1's lower and upper wings, but still, very annoying, very much so!!

[RGL]

Hehehe. 

 

Its easier to fix fix if it’s paint and not plastic that’s cut. 

[cog]

6 hours ago, RGL said:

Hehehe. 

 

Its easier to fix fix if it’s paint and not plastic that’s cut. 

Easy for you to say with such a stunning vocabulairy!

 

O so true ... fortunately I didn't do any plastic line cutting on the Dr I ...

 

Deck furniture demands some preparations ... a lot of sprue bits to file off ... I got myself a new cutter for the plastic parts, this time a Tamiya, the older one started to wobble. Curious as to how long this one will remain in good working condition (no I didn't cut brass with the old one)

Edited June 6, 2018 by cog

[RGL]

I may have destroyed a couple of sprue cutters that way. As such, never again!!!

 

i spent the entire day priming, then pre shading, and base grey coat. Nothing worth photographing. Light grey coats to go then pinwashes and a light dry brush, and start gluing again. 

[popeye the sailor]

look'in very nice Carl.......you both seem to be going for the lighter color scheme.   I guess I'll have to go with the darker scheme.  the admiral told me that she got an e-mail........they just dropped the PE in the post.

 

the above was a post I was going to make the past evening.........must have dozed off at the computer.   I should know better than to look in during the work week.

 

me......today,  am {almost} fresh as a daisy...had a decent night's sleep.  I'll see what I can do today.   looking at both of your progress.......nothing short of awesome!  you two have made some terrific progress ......your weathering Greg is first class........and your PE reserve Carl is really adding so much detail.  I won't be adding all the extra stuff though.......if I were to start buying all the other stuff,  the admiral would have a fit!

     I'm an enamel user........I do have friends though that use acrylics......like Vallejo.  one trick they used was to use washer fluid for thinning......alcohol was used to hasten the drying time.  it was hard for me to wrap my head around it because of the blue tint in the washer fluid........I though it would hinder mixing,  if you were trying to arrive at a certain color.  another paint that has been tried is Jo Santo,  which is more of an artist's paint,  than anything else.  one fellow did a great job on a Duke's of Hazard car model using it.   I'm an old stick in the mud though......I've never wavered from enamels.   I do have a few Acrylic colors though and four of the life color packs......cs 20,  cs 10 and cs 13....can't use them because of the enamel influence...the two paints don't mix.   thanks for letting me know the colors your using.......I may go slightly darker though to reflect the time line I'll be going for.  what stinks though,  is that all of the pictures I've been seeing are in black 'n white........positive color matches are inconclusive.   I'm going to do some more research later.   I have a couple of pictures......just a tiny bit of a start.   I've fitted almost all of the decks.

....and as you can see,  I'm using a white sheet of paper as a cutting mat,  so I can see the part clearly.

I was going to assemble the deck onto the hull before painting,  but weighing out all the masking,  rather than touching up after assembly.  I'll get more into the running one way or another today.......great job yous two   

[popeye the sailor]

the P 47B is off the table....no distractions   

[cog]

Off to a distractionless start ... Glad to see you at it Denis ... it got a bit lonesome ... paint ... I do "mix" enamels and acrylics ... the Dr 1 I'm at has Tamiya rattle can primer. On top of that is at the bottom Humbrol 49 (pale sky or whatever it's called), the upper and sides Humbrol 41 gloss (Ivory/off white), on top of that again Tamiya, brownish, and green. On top of that Vallejo, and some more tamiya and vallejo ...You do need to take into account if you are going to use an ordinairy brush (not air) you will mix the acrylic colours, which is what I intended to happen. So far for the brand and paint type mixins

 

Hope to see you regularly

Edited June 6, 2018 by cog

[popeye the sailor]

NICE!!!!! what Jasta is that?  I have two Dr I's....I think they are 1:144 scale,  that I did a while back.   I got them on E-bay from a fellow in England.  I did one as the Red Baron and the other one is Werner Voss's plane.  they are small....I laughed when I got them {I thought they would be larger}.   really like that camo job you did!   I'm surprised......most that I've talked to have had terrible out comes mixing the two...fish eyes.......chipping and peeling etc.  glosses and flats are different in the suspension of pigments,  as far as enamels go.  military models don't have much call for gloss colors either.   for the car buffs,  I stumbled onto a really nice brand of paint,  which can be used straight from the bottle,  if desired.

 

http://www.gravitycolors.com/us/product/porsche-pearl-silverstone/

 

the admiral got me a battery operated drill for father's day {a pre gift}.   I've been using a Ridgid drill...the small one,  which works well for modeling,  since it can hold the smaller drill bits.  the one she got me is smaller I think and even more compact......can't wait to try it out.  if it does well,  it will end up in one of the drawers.       I assembled the stand.......I used a glue pen that I've had for some time.   I guess I'm not as handy with it though......it did make for a bit of a mess.

    luckily,  the messy part is inside the stand,  than outside,  so clean up will be minimal.   I think I ill revert to the tube with a nozzle applicator.  now to drill out all the holes in the hull.

[RGL]

Great to see your start Popeye 

[cog]

No jasta, just trying out my hand at the paint. I've got a few more in this size. So I can try some more. I would like to make the complete set of Jasta II ... a mere 30 plains ... I'm not yet certain about the scale 1/24 or 1/72

Nice paint ... apitty postage will make it a bit expensive ...

[RGL]

And the deck stuff starts