Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale

[MEDDO]

16 minutes ago, JpR62 said:

 It seems so simple...

 

Exactly.  Every time I see this done I think “I can do that” and every time I try to do that I think “I cannot do that” 😳

[AnobiumPunctatum]

The colour of the wood is perfect for planking. Is it possible to show a picture with the cedar and a piece of pear wood? I am really interested to see how they looks together. I think on my Triton project.

Edited July 21, 2018 by AnobiumPunctatum

[svein erik]

A master job, as always ☺

 

Svein.erik 

[Chuck]

Thanks guys.

 

You guys know that I am Italian and from New Jersey.  But that is not why I covered my model in plastic.  That is only good for my living room sofa.  

 

But I mentioned after I showed how I lined off the hull, that I would show you guys how I translate those tick marks on the frames into actual spiled planks.  In the photo below, hopefully you can see the clear tape on my model.  This is just plain old packaging tape.  Many people use this technique and it works very well.  I however changed a few things over the years.  Rather than run a long strip of tape from bow to stern, I use short lengths that run from the keel to the sheer.  I over lap the different small pieces as I work my way across the hull.

 

 

The important thing to remember is NOT to flex the tape.  Just put each segment down and let it conform to the hull shape.  This is why I dont use a really long piece from bow to stern.  You would be most likely to bend and flex the long piece edgewise which would not give you very accurate plank shapes.  You must be able to remove the tape without flexing it edgewise and then place it on a flat surface like card stock or even the piece of wood you are cutting the plank from.  By using shorter pieces running the other way and overlapped, it makes it more difficult to flex the tape at all.  So when you remove it,  it stays the same shape as it was on the hull.

 

Anyway,  run a pencil along the edge of the last plank already on the hull.  Then trace over each tick mark on every frame.  You should also mark the plank butts and the ends of the strake.  Normally on a hull like the Winnie you would only need to do the bow area and the stern area to find the shape.  It is easy enough to plank mid ship and there is no need to run a piece of tape across the entire hull.  But in this case, I am creating laser cut planks for all of you guys.  So I must do the entire strake.  I could do it in sections but its just as easy to do the entire hull in one shot.  The hull isnt that long.

 

Carefully remove the tape without flexing or stretching it.  Then carefully lay it onto a flat surface.  In my case a piece of paper that I will scan.  Then connect your tick marks and clean it up a bit using french curves.  I just eye-balled it.  I connected the dashes to reveal the true shape of the spiled plank.  hopefully you can see it below.  Normally I use a fine point sharpie because it writes on the tape better but my kids find them and I never see them again.  So I m just using a pencil.

 

 

You can see how I connected the dots to reveal the shape of the plank.  If you placed this on card stock and cut it out with a sharp blade, then you can test it on your model.  If it fits.....and it should....then trace it onto some thin wood sheet to cut your planks.  I will be scanning it and making a vector drawing so I can laser cut them.  

 

Hope this makes sense....feel free to ask me any questions.   Its easier to show this in a tech session than write about it.

 

For this kit and project you guys wont have to do this....(you have the laser cut planks)  but I do recommend you give it a try on any other model.  You will fall in love with this method once you see how well the planks fit at the bow......snug against the frames or bulkheads.

 

Chuck

[Landlocked123]

Yet again, this is great and best of all it’s common sense.  While I realize we won’t need to do this for the Longboat or Winnie, it’s a technique we can use for planking anything.  It’s yet another example of how you are educating an entire generation of model ship builders.  Thanks again.  Best, John

[Chuck]

Thanks.....but to clarify,  the Winnie wont have laser cut planks.  Its just to big.  This is something you will absolutely have to do on that model.  But its easy so fear not.  And it doesnt take that long to do.  

 

I will make sure I detail this again when I plank the Winnie though.

 

Chuck

[Kurt Johnson]

The plastic! That takes me back to my college days. But Brooklyn, not Jersey. That was when the world made some kind of sense!

[Tigersteve]

Chuck, is this the method you used for the previous planks? Was there any edgebending earlier? Also, is this method better for a hull like your Confederacy? 

Steve

[Chuck]

This doesnt need any edge bending at all.  This is an entirely different approach.  Its good for any hull.

[michael mott]

Nice i shall definitely give this a try.

 

Michael

[NWSailor]

Chuck,

Can hardly wait till you release this group kit. Absolutely incredible execution.

[KenW]

What kind of packing tape do you use.  My tape won't take pencil marks.  Very annoying.

Your work always looks perfect.

Cheers.

[Chuck]

I use whatever I can find....this particular stuff is from the post office.  I have also used the stuff from home depot.  Using a fine sharpie works best but pencil is OK too.

[KenW]

I got a fine sharpie pen; and my problem with it is that if I rube the line with my fat finger, it is wiped off.

I now prefer the Sharpie ultra fine permanent marker.  It doesn't rub off.  The line is still thicker than the fine sharpie pen, however.

Just a FYI.

Cheers.

[druxey]

Rather than packing tape, try 3M Magic tape. It is slightly frosted and takes pencil well. Even better is the 'temporary' version with re-positionable adhesive.

[Chuck]

Seven strakes are now completed.  This is important because these first seven are 1/32" thick.  The last two at the sheer will actually be thicker at 3/64".  This is because the wales (like on a larger ship) are thicker then the planking below it.  You can see this in the photos of the contemporary model.  See below.

 

 

One thing I would like to point out that concerns me....

 

Even though I am providing laser cut , pre-spiled planking, there is still a chance that your planking will not go as well as you might like it to.  As you can see in the photo above, I have the luxury and safety of having my tick marks on each frame.  This is a very welcome thing to have as a reference.  As you plank the hull and work your way towards the sheer, you will still need to bevel and tweak the edges of each plank so they fit tightly against the previous strake.  This needs to be done only in various areas of each strake as the hull curves. 

 

You need to match the angle on the edge of the plank already on the model.  Should you over-bevel.....or under-bevel,  you will be slowly changing the runs of your planks so they arent the same as mine.  Therefore, as you get to the seventh strake there may be compounding very slight differences which create gaps (probably minor) which will require more beveling or more sanding for a tight fit.

 

Having those tick marks present as a guide will help you keep on track,  You can make minor tweaks as needed to keep each strake running along your tick marks.  So having pre-spiled planks creates a disadvantage because you wont have this road-map.  So I recommend that you do in fact line off your hull as I described so you will have some sort of plan to follow.  You may in the end not create an identical lined off hull and your tick marks may not match exactly the way I have them on my model.  BUT even so,  having these tick marks as a guide are in my opinion .... invaluable.  You guys should take the time to do so.  

 

Let me know if you have any questions. 😊

 

 

[thibaultron]

Chuck; Perhaps the Tick Marks could be laser etched on either the inside or outside scrap, and drawn onto the frame by the modeler, before they remove the frame from the waste wood. Rough drawing below.

[Chuck]

I could......but nope.....  this is really something everyone should learn to do.  Its not very difficult and if you are a serious builder and want to learn how to plank properly,  this is the perfect project to try lining off.   There are only 9 strakes per side in one belt.  It cant get any easier.  I do try and make these projects as easy to build as possible.  But I draw the line at these fundamentals....I am a person who believes this is the one thing folks need to try and learn to do themselves.   Its the reason why I stress its importance on every build.   And as part of the group it is something that should be considered one of the "educational" aspects of the project.   I even contemplated NOT including the laser spiled planks for a moment.  Some say I am slowly approaching an "assembly" project like a plastic kit rather than something that is actually created.  So I have started choosing more deliberately how far to take the engineering.   

 

Hopefully that doesnt seem too harsh....but it does take the fun out of it for some.  I would even suggest that you discard the pre-spiled planking and instead plank it all without the aid of the laser cut materials.  I may even offer them only as an extra but its something that I have thought about quite a bit.  Any thoughts???

 

 

 

 

[Maury S]

Chuck, You certainly are bringing kit making to a new level!

Maury

[Landrotten Highlander]

I for one would like to have the option to explude pre-spiled planks.  As you said, Chuck, it is a basic skill that will allow you to progress to much more complex builds without having to worry about how to do proper planking

[Tigerdvr]

Chuck

Would not seeing how planks are spiled by a professional be a great training tool/method?

Having an good example in your hands brings much more meaning to the printed instructions of

"how-to".

IMHO that's as close to having a professional like you looking over my shoulder and guiding me through the process.

 

Cheers, Harley

[Dowmer]

Chuck, I agree wholeheartedly about modeling properly.  A small kit in a larger scale like this is perfect for those learning planking since the size isn’t as daunting as something like a frigate. 

 

I would vote vote for a kit option with no spiled planks.  Saves time on your Laser and allows the builder to plank the way they should if they choose to do so.  Pre-spiled planks, although convenient, are a bit of a crutch as you are approaching more of an assembly type kit like you said earlier about plastic models. 

[Chuck]

Yes.....but I will be also including the shapes and templates for the spiled planks on the plans.....So its basically the same thing.   Either way, the starter package wont include them.  So anyone buying just the starter package will have to go through the process.   The laser cut planks will only be included in the full kit.  Hopefully many will just buy the starter package and take this great opportunity to try these techniques for the very first time.   The starter package will only be available for folks on MSW taking part in the group build.  It wont be available on my site.

 

The starter package will contain,

 

-Plans

-All frame parts

-The buildboard

-and stem and keel parts.

[Landrotten Highlander]

9 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Yes.....but I will be also including the shapes and templates for the spiled planks on the plans.....So its basically the same thing.   Either way, the starter package wont include them.  So anyone buying just the starter package will have to go through the process.   The laser cut planks will only be included in the full kit.  Hopefully many will just buy the starter package and take this great opportunity to try these techniques for the very first time.   The starter package will only be available for folks on MSW taking part in the group build.  It wont be available on my site.

 

The starter package will contain,

 

-Plans

-All frame parts

-The buildboard

-and stem and keel parts.

Will the stem and keel parts be the simple version, or the more complicated version?

[Chuck]

You will get both....so you have no reason to not at least try the more historically accurate version.  If it doesnt work out.....you will still have the parts for the simpler version.

[michael mott]

The idea of the templates is great for practicing the fitting of the planks, before moving to the wood.

 

Michael

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Really nice progress on the master for the group build. Do you also build the scond version without the full planking first?

[Chuck]

No not yet.   I figured most would want to fully plank.  But I could be wrong.   I may do that version in swiss pear also so I havent decided yet.

[Chuck Seiler]

There is another downside to over-beveling your planks.  The planks will meet snug on the surface, but there will be a gap as you get deeper into the plank.The resulting finish sanding could remove that vital upper layer and create a gap in your planking.  Don't ask me how I know this.

[Dowmer]

12 minutes ago, Chuck Seiler said:

There is another downside to over-beveling your planks.  The planks will meet snug on the surface, but there will be a gap as you get deeper into the plank.The resulting finish sanding could remove that vital upper layer and create a gap in your planking.  Don't ask me how I know this.

 

Chuck S,

True, plus if you over bevel then on the inside of the boat (which is visible in an open boat such as this) will have ugly furrows between the planks where there was too much space created. Better to knock off just enough of the inner edge to get a tight fit. 

 

Chuck P,

I like your idea of having templates for your spiles. Then a less experienced builder can look to see what the shape should look like (for those visual learners such as myself) but still be able to hands on create their planks. I think you have a reasonable balanced kit offering.  Enough hand holding for those that need it but not too much so a builder can still learning by doing. Besides, every model with have slightly different spiles depending on creeping errors you you mentioned earlier.  👍

 

Man, what’s with all the Chucks!  😆