Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)

[mtaylor]

I'm posting and pinning this topic as much of the info discussed about blades, etc. is contained in this.   This if from a former supplier of wood for ship models and he used the Byrne's Saw (aka the Jim Saw) for his products.  Much of the info in here (such as blade tooth count, etc.) is also valid for other desktop hobby saws.

 

He mentions in his text using Thurston blades but they quit the business and so this is recommendation for blades:   https://www.malcosaw.com/

 

I hope it's helpful....

Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf

[Decoyman]

Can anyone recommend a supplier for blades for the Byrnes saw in the UK? Not having much luck finding anything and the odd company that seems to have something vaguely similar (for example, same diameter, wrong sized arbor) is remarkably expensive.

 

Rob (Decoyman)

[KeithAug]

Rob, are you looking for carbide tipped saws or high speed steel slitting saws, for the latter there are options.

[Decoyman]

Thanks, Keith. Both, actually. I have two broken teeth on the carbide-tipped blade that came with the saw and my slitting saws are blunt!

[KeithAug]

Rob - I buy TCT blades from Byrnes - i have not found another good source.

 

For slitting saws I use these from Amazon. 

As you can see they come in a range of sizes. 

 

I don't use less than 0.8mm for slitting planks as anything less tends to deflect and hence bind.

I do use down to 0.6mm thickness for cross cutting on thin and narrow wood.

 

I have a lathe so made up the spacer to convert from the standard 0.5" spindle to the 22mm bore of these blades. 

 

Jim Byrnes supplies spacers at a relatively modest cost but I don't know about shipping cost. Alternatively I can make you one.

 

 

 

[Decoyman]

That's very helpful, thank you.

 

I have a lathe too, so I might have a go at turning up a spacer. If it's not too much trouble, how do you normally do this?

 

Best wishes

 

Rob

[Justin P.]

Just what I need.  Thank you for posting.

[KeithAug]

 

9 hours ago, Decoyman said:

I have a lathe too, so I might have a go at turning up a spacer. If it's not too much trouble, how do you normally do this?

Rob

Get a piece of aluminium rod bigger than 22mm.

Turn the outside diameter down to 22mm - buy the blade first and then you can make sure it fits.

Drill a shallow hole for the bore and then open it out to O.5" - use the plate from the saw to check that it fits over the small spigot. 

Then part off the spacer to the width that you want - i.e a couple of thou thinner then the thinest blade you want to use. If turns out a bit thicker than you intended thin it off by rubbing on some emery paper.

You could use steel but parting off might be difficult unless you have a larger lathe, brass is also an option but more expensive.

[Decoyman]

That's really helpful - thank you again. All I have to do now is find a piece of 22 mm aluminium....

[agamemnon9]

another alternative , simply a washer with a center hole of 0.5

[davec]

I just purchased a blade adaptor from Jim Byrnes to replace the one I lost when it fell on the floor and rolled away.  He charged $5, and the shipping was very reasonable.  It just came in the mail, which means the one I dropped should turn up shortly.

 

 

[jackieofalltrades]

Does anyone have information on the table top slanted extension for cutting on the table saw?

I've never been able to figure out how it's supposed to actually work LOL

[Gregory]

I believe it is for cutting angles without tilting the blade..

 

Someone correct me if I'm wron..

[No Idea]

20 hours ago, jackieofalltrades said:

Does anyone have information on the table top slanted extension for cutting on the table saw?

I've never been able to figure out how it's supposed to actually work LOL

The arbor on these saws is fixed so this adapter tilts the table instead.  I use mine quite extensively and like all tools - the more you use it the easier the use and set up become .  I can set my tilting table up in minutes now and I wouldn't be without out it.

[kurtvd19]

One tip on using the tilt table.  If the saw is kept level using the tilt table is a bit awkward.  Use a couple of wedges under the saw so the tilt table is level with the bench top and it does away with the awkward working on the tilt table and the tendency for gravity to work against holding the wood against the uphill fence.

[No Idea]

4 minutes ago, kurtvd19 said:

One tip on using the tilt table.  If the saw is kept level using the tilt table is a bit awkward.  Use a couple of wedges under the saw so the tilt table is level with the bench top and it does away with the awkward working on the tilt table and the tendency for gravity to work against holding the wood against the uphill fence.

Kurt this is spot on - I should have said this in my post.  If you tip the saw so that the fence is parallel with the floor it makes the job so much easier.  When I first used my tilting table I did struggle a bit as it does take some getting used too.  But when you get it sussed what a great addition to the saw.  My advise to anyone using this attachment is to have a good play with it until you are happy with your use of it.  Once sorted you won't look back as any angle is achievable with a clean cut that can be repeated as many times as you like.  

[jackieofalltrades]

Thank you all for the information. Trying to work it out I thought I was totally missing something. I'm a visual person so pictures of how you have yours functioning would be extra helpful. Thank you again

[jackieofalltrades]

4 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

One tip on using the tilt table.  If the saw is kept level using the tilt table is a bit awkward.  Use a couple of wedges under the saw so the tilt table is level with the bench top and it does away with the awkward working on the tilt table and the tendency for gravity to work against holding the wood against the uphill fence.

How do you adjust for different angles? I assume you have the common 45 set up and 22.5 perhaps?

I have one of the digital angle cubes that I was hoping to rig up for easier & mostly accurate setup

[Jaager]

If the object is to be able to get a precise and reproducible  saw tilt and this will be done frequently with multiple possible angles being cut:

 

Fix the machine to a two plywood sheet base.

Lower is a 1/2" - 3/4"  sheet.  width 3" or more wider than saw base on each side.

Upper is  1/4" sheet

The right edge of upper sheet is at the right side of the saw base.

The upper sheet is attached to the lower using a full size piano hinge.

The left side is as far beyond the base of the saw as is needed to fix a a threaded rod and thumb screw or wingnut to raise that edge.

There would probably need to be spacer pieces at the hinge and outer edges of the upper sheet that are a tad thicker than the thumb screw/wingnut.

 

Someone really OCD could fix the angle gauge from a adjustable miter -  or a stick with marks  at the front right at the hinge.

 

The down side is that it adds weight to an already hefty machine.

A 1" rubber stopper fixed under each corner of the base will provide space for fingers to lift the machine, if it just rents bench space and lives on a shelf.

[jackieofalltrades]

1 hour ago, Jaager said:

If the object is to be able to get a precise and reproducible  saw tilt and this will be done frequently with multiple possible angles being cut:

 

Fix the machine to a two plywood sheet base.

Lower is a 1/2" - 3/4"  sheet.  width 3" or more wider than saw base on each side.

Upper is  1/4" sheet

The right edge of upper sheet is at the right side of the saw base.

The upper sheet is attached to the lower using a full size piano hinge.

The left side is as far beyond the base of the saw as is needed to fix a a threaded rod and thumb screw or wingnut to raise that edge.

There would probably need to be spacer pieces at the hinge and outer edges of the upper sheet that are a tad thicker than the thumb screw/wingnut.

 

Someone really OCD could fix the angle gauge from a adjustable miter -  or a stick with marks  at the front right at the hinge.

 

The down side is that it adds weight to an already hefty machine.

A 1" rubber stopper fixed under each corner of the base will provide space for fingers to lift the machine, if it just rents bench space and lives on a shelf.

any chance of a pic...not sure if my poor brain got that properly.   Using the saw this way doesn't the weight of the wood itself start to where on the little hinges that came with the accessory?  Sorry for so many questions that I've been looking for 2 years for decent info. Wasn't able to find anything but a few mentions.

[Jaager]

This is straight out of my head, so no pictures.

Most table saws that can do a rip cut that is other than 90 degree vertical - tilt the blade.

The Byrnes saw holds the blade vertical and tilts the table - the right of the blade part of the table.

Kurt and No Idea suggest that because of gravity and friction,  the wood can move away from the blade -because it  mostly rests on an angled surface.

They mimic the standard table saw by tilting the blade, and making the accessory table horizontal.  The rest of the saw goes with the blade.

The saw comes on its own base.  A heavy one.  They place wedges  under the base to angle it up.  I would want a stop at the right side edge to keep the saw from sliding.

 

My suggestion is more elaborate and only makes sense if a whole lot of beveled ripping is going to be done,  and if several angles are involved.

My picture:

Lay a book flat on a table. Turn it so that the top of the book is facing you and the spine is on your right.  Lift the front cover.

Imagine a small version of the saw sitting on the top cover.   The cover is lifted until the right side saw table accessory is horizontal.

 

Use plywood to make the two book covers.  Use a full size piano hinge as the book spine.   There are holes in each corner of the saw base.

Fix the saw base to the top piece of plywood.  As heavy as the saw is, I think two pieces of 1/2" ply will be needed.  The bottom needs to be wider than the top - enough beyond the hinge the the whole assembly does not flip sideways.

The threaded rod and nut are not needed actually.  A block of wood, square even will hold the top cover at the angle.  A way to fix it in place would probably be a good idea.  

 

[kurtvd19]

1 hour ago, Jaager said:

 

Kurt and No Idea suggest that because of gravity and friction,  the wood can move away from the blade -because it  mostly rests on an angled surface.

Actually the wood tends to slide towards the blade - away from the fence which is up hill (to the right) from the blade when the saw sits on the bench.  You do have it right with the "book" tilting the saw so the tilt table is level with the table top.

[jackieofalltrades]

 so does anyone want to weigh in on what the two holes that go through the table and it's fence are for?

[jimbyr]

Jack

 

They are for aligning the fence during assembly

 

Jim

[Worldway]

Just curious about the blades.  Could we not simply purchase them from Jim Byrnes on his website?  I know we are all looking for after market blades but maybe the best bet is Jim himself. I certainly can't find a supplier easily in Canada.

[mtaylor]

Derek, 

I'm not sure about the blades.  At the time the document was written, Jim wasn't offering  a selection in blades.    You mght PM him here on MSW and ask.  If he doesn't, use the sources or search for a supplier in Canada.   If you find one, post it here.

[Justin P.]

Model Machines currently sells a selection of blades that correspond (perhaps not exactly) to the above document.  I buy direct from him. 

 

 

[mtaylor]

That is excellent information, Justin. 

[No Idea]

I buy all of my blades from Model Machines I just tend to order quite a few at a time because its expensive to import into the UK.  My view is if I buy from the original supplier it keeps them in business.  I have too many friends who buy cheaper from China and then wonder why their favourite model supplier has gone out of business.  I had a load of blades from Jim about 6 months ago and they will keep me going for the next year

[Hank]

Having bought the Byrne's Saw many years ago, I read thru this whole thread with interest. There is a lot of good information here. While my use of the saw has tended to be in a rather simple and straightforward application - nothing exotic or requiring angled cuts as in ripping, I find it quite useful in the ways other modelers have chosen to address the issue of angled rip cuts. I've also toyed with purchasing Jim's angled table accessory and may still do so - if the need becomes a reality.

 

I especially like the idea of mounting the saw on a permanently angled base of sorts, using the piano hinge and thumbscrew method as suggested by Jaager. In fact, this basic idea could lead to a number of small additions for convenience in setting up the correct angle for cutting, etc.

 

Hank