MRAP ATV by CDW - FINISHED - Rye Field - 1:35 Scale

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

I agree. In the past, I bought resin upgrades that looked nowhere near as good as this, straight out of the box. That's the point I was trying to make in another post. There are model kits out there right now that don't need anything aftermarket, they are perfectly sufficient right out of the box.

Amen brother.... I have some more modern stuff that won't need a thing to build beautiful models and some ancient things that need everything......

 

The hobby has advanced that much over the last few decades......

 

That being said, the molding on this kit is some of the crispest I have ever seen....... very nice kit....

[Canute]

Don't look now, but the 3D printed parts are looking very good. I just got replacement doors, ends and roof to turn a 40s era refrigerator car into a late 60s era flour loading boxcar. There are also templates to drill holes in the ends for appropriate details. All based on some real good CAD work. The printing sprues are heavy, but cut off easily. The parts do have striations, but sand up fairly easily.

[CDW]

Assembly of the frame rails and sub assemblies.

 

 

 

Addition of support gussets to the chassis and other various parts.  

 

 

 

Next up are the four independent suspension assemblies. 

[Old Collingwood]

I would say thats Right up there with the likes of Accurate Armour  with thier resin kits  - extremely good start Craig.

 

OC.

[ASAT]

Craig, I guess all that gets painted the same color? I would be tempted to highlight the frame suspension/running gear with different colors.... but that’s probably not how they are...?

[CDW]

Just now, ASAT said:

Craig, I guess all that gets painted the same color? I would be tempted to highlight the frame suspension/running gear with different colors.... but that’s probably not how they are...?

Lou, if you go back to my first post and click on the link I provided, there are a few photos of the 1:1 machine and how it's painted all one color. Of course, there would be nothing wrong with painting it any way you see fit. In this case, I intend to paint it in one basic color and pick out details with shading and paint modulation. Just my personal preference, no right or wrong way as far as I'm concerned. It could probably look real good in different colors if one chose to do that.

[ASAT]

Yeah I did that before I posted, saw that it was pretty much all the same color, I think with your ability’s with an airbrush shading and weathering, it will look very realistic and bring out the details as well as can be done, I guess I am thinking more along the lines of an old hot rodder...😎

[CDW]

Just now, ASAT said:

I guess I am thinking more along the lines of an old hot rodder...😎

Sure can't fault you for that. A lot of the old hot rodder in me, too.

[ASAT]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

Sure can't fault you for that. A lot of the old hot rodder in me, too.

Yeah well, you gotta figure anybody with an old Duo Glide panhead in his avatar for an old rodder....😀👍

[CDW]

For this model, will be using the Mr Color desert yellow modulation set.

 

This is a four color set with varying degrees of desert yellow.

 

 

The idea is to start with the darkest color first, then build on that to lighten the dark shade to give the model a feeling of depth with the paint. Four-step process.

 

 

Because more chassis detail gets added in subsequent steps, it's best to get the first dark coat on now before adding more parts. This will make it easier to get the entire thing painted.

 

[Old Collingwood]

Looking smart mate.

 

OC.

[CDW]

2 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Looking smart mate.

 

OC.

Thanks OC

[Egilman]

We get a great opportunity to see what excellent molding and thoughtful design does for painting and shading.....

 

It really looks the part.....

 

Nice work...

[CDW]

Remember when we built model cars and a detailed kit would provide a lump of plastic that resembled a coil spring? No more, this kit has the first fully formed set of coil springs I have ever seen in an injection molded styrene plastic kit.

 

 

Then here are the additional suspension parts added, upper and lower control arms, hubs, tie rods, etc.

 

 

Next will add some more paint to cover the newly added parts. 

[lmagna]

Makes the frame/suspension system on the Revell wrecker look primitive by comparison!

[popeye the sailor]

late to the party............suspension looks awesome     in the older car kits,  they used to supply real springs........selected ones though.   that's a cool paint kit you got there.........when Lou mentioned detailing the undercarriage,  I though about stay'in within the same color.......different hues would make a big difference and still accomplish what one want to achieve.   very nice start  

[Canute]

Must have been fun, putting in those springs.  I'll be following the use of that Mr Color paint kit. Interesting concept with the different shades. And it's lacquer, isn't it?

[mtaylor]

Wow... a real coil spring.   That is something I've not seen in plastic before.   

 

Denis, I think one of the old Ford GT40 had those metal springs or it might have one of Ferrari GT racers back then.  I forget which as I did a bunch of the LeMans type cars.

[ASAT]

Wow, that looks like a ton of fun! That paint set is killer! The instructions look like chicken scratch but I think I could figure it out... looks like a great effect.

[CDW]

Moving on...

 

[Old Collingwood]

Superb  - so much detail.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Just now, mtaylor said:

Wow... a real coil spring.   That is something I've not seen in plastic before.   

 

Denis, I think one of the old Ford GT40 had those metal springs or it might have one of Ferrari GT racers back then.  I forget which as I did a bunch of the LeMans type cars.

It's the first one I've seen done in plastic as well. Can't even imagine the mold it would take to do that, then to get it out of the mold makes my head spin.

 

Just now, ASAT said:

Wow, that looks like a ton of fun! That paint set is killer! The instructions look like chicken scratch but I think I could figure it out... looks like a great effect.

Yes, this has been a fun kit to build so far. Fits together very well. The paint set sells for around $12, so the price is right. Then it's lacquer based paints as well. Dries fast and hard. Very much more scratch resistant than water based acrylics but stinks a lot.

[Egilman]

28 minutes ago, CDW said:

It's the first one I've seen done in plastic as well. Can't even imagine the mold it would take to do that, then to get it out of the mold makes my head spin.

 

Yes, this has been a fun kit to build so far. Fits together very well. The paint set sells for around $12, so the price is right. Then it's lacquer based paints as well. Dries fast and hard. Very much more scratch resistant than water based acrylics but stinks a lot.

Slide molding has a lot of advantages, the two halves of the die come together, (leaving a seam mark down the rings) and a rod slides in from the side down the center of the coil to keep the center from filling.....

 

This is the current state of plastic injection molding...  Resin casting has something to worry about..... 

[CDW]

4 minutes ago, Egilman said:

the two halves of the die come together, (leaving a seam mark down the rings) and a rod slides in from the side down the center of the coil to keep the center from filling.....

This may be, but I'm not so sure of that. Seems to me if this were true, the inside of the coil would be flat, but it's not. The spring coils are round inside and out. For sure you can see the parting line down each outside half of the coil. but the inner coils retain their perfectly round shape. That's what I can't compute.

[Egilman]

Yeah, that does pose an interesting problem.....

[Egilman]

ok three part mold.

 

A shaft that is cut like threads except rounded like the inside of your spring. and an upper and lower half of the mold...

 

The shaft moves in and out just like a rod would except it rotates at a certain pitch as it does, like it is threaded into the mold. So the two halves close, the side insert screws it's way into the mold, the plastic is pushed into the mold. When it has cooled a bit, the insert threads itself out and the mold halves separate.... The only Idea I can come up with... where and how the parts were located on the sprue would give some indication of how it was molded...

[lmagna]

4 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Denis, I think one of the old Ford GT40 had those metal springs or it might have one of Ferrari GT

I believe that may have been the Heller Ferrari 330 P3/4 kit Mark. At least the one I built has metal springs, kind of like ball point pen springs.

[Jack12477]

Craig, where do you get the Mr Colot/Mr Hobby paints ? The 3 online hobby stores I use only carry the primer and maybe the leveler but no paints (Free Time, HobbyLinc, Megahobby). 

[CDW]

Just now, Jack12477 said:

Craig, where do you get the Mr Colot/Mr Hobby paints ? The 3 online hobby stores I use only carry the primer and maybe the leveler but no paints (Free Time, HobbyLinc, Megahobby). 

scalehobbyist.com

 

Excellent online hobby shop that's near you in New Hampshire. They carry a full line of Mr Color paints and everything else.

[Canute]

Might try Sprue Brothers.https://store.spruebrothers.com/category_s/2737.htm They carry the line, but I'm not sure about them carrying these paint sets.

 

Here's the Gunze lines with the page covering the sets. http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemList.php?cId=7

The applicable sets are about mid page. 

 

Here's their English instructions for the Dark Yellow set Craig is using.: http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=1917

here's te English instructions for the OD set: http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=1916

They cleverly used the same instructions for both.