HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[hollowneck]

On 12/7/2021 at 10:06 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Post Forty-nine

 

Gallery-Part three

A seat of ease is constructed using Box and Pear and is fitted to the Portside Gallery.

Brian Lavery (Arming and Fitting)  suggested that only one gallery was fitted out as a head, the other used for storage and observation of the sails.

1652

1657

1658

I can now fit the top Qtr gallery pattern (45) followed by the outer stern facia pattern. This now protects the somewhat flimsy inner pattern.

1672(2)

On the kit version inside the gallery is painted black to hide construction detail. On my open gallery style I have painted the  insides Vallejo Ivory which will help light the interior.

1665

At this point I’m not sure about fitting the Upper outer counter pattern as I’m not a fan of the raised etched Name lettering provided in kits.

My favoured approach is to use dry-rub lettering which has a more authentic and period look to it.

 

I had a play around (with Chuck’s permission)  using the decorative friezes and panels applicable to Winchelsea.

1689

1677

The name was replaced using Photoshop and Paint, only mock-ups at present, and the letter style needs adjusting, but I’m rather drawn to the paper frieze approach.

I will return to this much later in the build.

 

The next post will hopefully see completion of the gallery assembly.

 

B.E.

07/12/21

 

 

 

 

You may want to ask - or PM - "druxey" about the most likely font that would have been used for a ship of this era. Great idea to include the lower counter painting details ala' Passaro; this will certainly enhance your very nice build.

Ron

[Thukydides]

That looks fantastic BE. Your hard work has really paid off.

[mtaylor]

Very nicelly done, B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Guys for your supportive comments.

@ Ron – early days but I will probably go for something like Baskerville old face, based on a style originally developed in 1766.

 

I would aim for a slightly less strong colour contrast with the lettering, but all this is in the future.

 

B.E.

 

[hollowneck]

I like it! The font looks spot-on: an excellent, historically-appropriate choice. A suggestion: when you come to finalizing the artwork take a look at (slightly) tighter letter-spacing (also called kerning). This will also allow you to enlarge the characters by approximately 1, perhaps 2 points.

 

Personally, in conjunction with all the embellishments you have planned, I like the yellow/ochre for her badge; however, I'm not certain that this color choice was used in the era. I'm sure there are members here who have some knowledge of this historical detail.

 

Your model is coming along very nicely. Kudos.

 

Ron

[Chuck]

I would strongly recommend going much larger with the letters....AND if you can, make them on a curve t match the curve of the counter.

 

But yes it looks great.   Let me see if I can facilitate something for you, see below.....

 

[bartley]

On 12/11/2021 at 6:26 PM, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you Guys for your supportive comments.

@ Ron – early days but I will probably go for something like Baskerville old face, based on a style originally developed in 1766.

 

I would aim for a slightly less strong colour contrast with the lettering, but all this is in the future.

 

B.E.

 

As Chuck suggests it would be nice to make the letters curve.  Somewhere in photoshop there is an option to "print on a curve" Just where it is escapes me at the moment but I will have a look.

 

John

[Blue Ensign]

Wow Chuck, thank you so much, that is brilliant.

I can’t wait to scale and print one off tomorrow.

 

Thank you John, I wasn’t aware of the Photoshop option, my version is very old (2013), but it looks like Chuck has done the business.

 

B.E.

 

 

 

[bartley]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Wow Chuck, thank you so much, that is brilliant.

I can’t wait to scale and print one off tomorrow.

 

Thank you John, I wasn’t aware of the Photoshop option, my version is very old (2013), but it looks like Chuck has done the business.

 

B.E.

 

 

 

Obviously the problem is solved, but for the record there are a couple of ways both of which should work on older versions of Photoshop.

 

1. Select the pen tool and draw a curve.  Now select the type tool and hover over the curve.  It will change into a curve tool then you can type on the curve.

 

2. Type your letters in the normal way (horizontally) Then with this layer  selected you should see at the top of the menu on the RH end an icon called "warp text mode".  By selecting "arc" in the window which appears you can warp the text by any amount.

 

John

[KirbysLunchBox]

I am very much a newbie here in the subject; is the print out a representation of painted artwork or painted carvings?

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Kirby.

Generally, and particularly on small ships like Sphinx the frieze work and counter decoration would be painted, but often in a style to represent carved work. In reality such painting would be very limited on small ships, and probably not present at all.

Actual Carved work of varying degrees was applied to the stern facias particularly  on prestige ships, but even this reduced significantly as the 18th century moved towards the early 19th century.

I think there was a fair bit of artistic licence used by artists and  contemporary model makers, to impress potential funders of the real thing, but they probably all knew that the Navy Board put strict  limits on how much they would pay for such decorations. The budget got tighter and tighter as the American and French wars dragged on.

 

Sphinx as painted by Joseph Marshall, shows her highly decorated with a Blue ground to the  frieze and counter work, it makes a very nice looking model.

 

In reality the  blue work officially should be black, but I am happy to follow the Marshall example.

 

B.E.

[Craigie65]

That looks fantastic.  Sorry if I have missed this in the thread, is the plan convert to a decal?  That would conform nicely.

[Blue Ensign]

My plan is to just use the printed paper strips a method often used on contemporary models, and as used on Chuck's Winchelsea to great effect.

 

I believe at some time in the future Chris is thinking about a decal version for use on his models, but I doubt that will be in the time frame of my build.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

I was keen this morning to see how Chuck’s magic looked on Sphinx.

I am not disappointed.

1763

1762

The arrangement will be enhanced once the decorative rails are applied top and bottom of the counters.

1768

Before the final pieces are applied I will lightly spray with artists fixative which may slightly change the colour.

I will need to create a paint mix close to the final tone for areas where background painting is required, but that’s a way ahead.

 

Thank you so much Chuck, what an asset you are to the ship modelling community. 👏

 

B.E.

[mtaylor]

Your stern is going to be epic to say the least.  

 

Do test your fixative before applying it to print on the ship.  Some may make the ink run.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Mark, 

I will apply the fixative before I attach them to the model. The beauty of print your own is you have endless  goes at the  process. 😊

 

B.E.

 

[CaptnBirdseye]

Wow that counter decoration really lifts an already great build to another level 👍

Edited December 13, 2021 by RockinBudgie

[glbarlow]

I believe the period after the name is accurate but I’m curious as to why there is one🧐

[Blue Ensign]

Me too Glenn,

We know the dates when names were introduced on the sterns,(1771) we know when the arrangement changed from small letters in a cartouche, to large as possible. (1772) We know they were always painted,  never raised block lettering, and that Keppel had the names scrubbed out on his fleet in 1778, during the period of that year.

.... but why the stop, yet another of the myriad of  questions constantly buzzing around my head that I don't have the answer to.

 

B.E.

 

ps. I note that Marshall in his painting of Sphynx in 1775 did not include her name on counter.

Edited December 14, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post Fifty-one

 

Port Linings – again.

I am using 0.6mm Boxwood strip for the purpose. The cills are the easy bit, the side pieces with their angles not so.

1751(2)

A card template was made to cut the sides from 10mm wide boxwood strip.

 

Each side needing final sanding and fitting, forty-four pieces in total, quite a time consuming business, and not a very exciting one.

Waiting for the replacement Quarter Gallery part to arrive gave me the impetus to get stuck in.

1757

Fitting in progress, to my eye the ports look better lined.

1790

It has taken 3 days to complete the fit, but the tricky part remains of painting the linings without marking the topsides planking.

1781

Cleaning up the inside bulwarks. 

 

A specifically designed sanding stick was required to avoid catching the spirketting and deck clamps whilst  smoothing off the  inboard linings.

In reality the Quick-works should extend over the inboard linings but having used  the pre-cut  inboard  bulwark patterns  this option was not available.

1787

I will leave any further work on the linings for the present, as the replacement gallery window patterns have arrived, (thanks Chris) and I can now complete the Starboard Quarter gallery.

 

B.E.

14/12/21

 

 

 

 

[DelF]

4 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

but why the stop, yet another of the myriad of  questions constantly buzzing around my head that I don't have the answer to

I don't know the answer either, but when I eventually get round to my Sphinx I'll leave the stop off. Historical accuracy be dammed - it just looks wrong 😒!

[glbarlow]

Agree.  No wait - Agree

[Gregory]

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

.... but why the stop, yet another of the myriad of  questions constantly buzzing around my head that I don't have the answer to.

Why? 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Yes historically it is correct.  Too many primary sources show it.  Including this well-recognized example.  It only looks wrong to many of you because you have been conditioned to see and accept so many wrong displays….done on kits mostly.  But too many folks just didnt do the research and many of you (as with other aspects of a project) just adopted the ridiculously wrong occurrences of such things as accurate.  Sometimes its very hard to correct fake news or misinformation!

 

 

Note the size and style.  Note the gradual “leaning in” of the letter towards the center.  This is almost never shown correctly.  The SPHYNX name is pretty close although it should be painted with more depth like the friezes.

[Blue Ensign]

The Bellona model is the one I recall as having the stop, wonderful craftsmanship, and if it’s good enough for the  artists of the time.............

 

B.E.

[KirbysLunchBox]

On 12/13/2021 at 3:40 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Hi Kirby.

Generally, and particularly on small ships like Sphinx the frieze work and counter decoration would be painted, but often in a style to represent carved work. In reality such painting would be very limited on small ships, and probably not present at all.

Actual Carved work of varying degrees was applied to the stern facias particularly  on prestige ships, but even this reduced significantly as the 18th century moved towards the early 19th century.

I think there was a fair bit of artistic licence used by artists and  contemporary model makers, to impress potential funders of the real thing, but they probably all knew that the Navy Board put strict  limits on how much they would pay for such decorations. The budget got tighter and tighter as the American and French wars dragged on.

 

Sphinx as painted by Joseph Marshall, shows her highly decorated with a Blue ground to the  frieze and counter work, it makes a very nice looking model.

 

In reality the  blue work officially should be black, but I am happy to follow the Marshall example.

 

B.E.

Thank you for explanation. So much stuff to learn and it is all very fascinating to me! 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Fifty-two

 

Great Cabin modification

With the Qtr galleries now in place I can move onto an area of the build that excites my interest, the fitting out of the Great cabin.

Chris’s design lends itself to this type of Navy Board style conversion, but is perhaps less relevant if the Qtr deck is to planked over and the model fully rigged.

Having said that I would probably have done it anyway.

 

Again I will be using Chuck’s Winchelsea example as a guide.

This shot from Chuck’s wonderful build shows a typical arrangement altho’ with Sphinx the head is octagonal and of smaller proportions.

 

There are drawings of the Rudder cover and bench arrangements in the Pandora book, good for dimensions, but not a good fit for layout.

The first task is to create the internal framing to support the cill and internal horizontal planking.

1794

Small sections of 4x4mm square stock are used for this and fit between the vertical stern framing just below the window frames.

For the internal planking I am using 4mm x 0.8mm Pearwood. Strip.

1798

This continues down the stern frames to the deck allowing for the rudder head space and cover.

 

I have cut the octagon shaped cover from a section of square stock Walnut, hollowed out to fit over the rudder head.

The octagonal Rudder Head cover, which scales to a diameter of 30” (12mm) and a height of 35.3” (14mm) sits between the central stern frames.

1804

1807

I am constrained in the actual positioning of the cover by the position of the Rudder head and stern post, and this will ultimately determine the layout of the bench and other fittings.

1800

I think I am likely to have more than one nibble at producing the cover, my preference is for Boxwood with Pearwood mouldings.

1808

If I can’t get the Octagonal cover to work I may have to follow Chuck’s example of a rectangular box which would give me more leeway.

 

Before I do further work on the cover I need to see about the bench arrangement.

The bench seat scales to a depth of 15” (6mm) and a height of 20” (8mm)

 

Without a formal plan to work to a lot of trial and error will be involved, and I expect to be faffing around with this set-up for a while yet.

 

B.E.

17/12/21

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Fifty-three

 

The Great Cabin flat pack assembly continues.

 

I faffed around with the octagonal style cover but couldn’t get it to sit right with my eye.

With the kit set-up the Rudder head position throws the cover too far backwards when the forward edge at least should meet the deck edge. To achieve this the cover would have to be too broad and not fit between the stern frames as required.

This also has implications for subsequently fitting the rudder and seating the rudder head within the cover.

 

Back to basics I considered the purpose of the fittings; to give a reasonably realistic impression as viewed obliquely and from above thro’ the Quarterdeck beams.

With that in mind I have opted to follow Chuck’s lead.

 

A rectangular cover masks the actual line of the rudder head and provides a clean line to set the benches against.

 

The cover is fashioned from some Pear sheet, and decorated with some ebony strip, and a depiction of a Greek sphinx.

Very keen on Greek mythology were the Georgians, altho’ the Sphinx is a far less attractive subject than the rather elegant Pegasus.

 

Both winged creatures, but I wouldn’t fancy meeting this Woman/lion/Raptor combo, who delighted in tearing humans limb from limb if they couldn’t answer her bloody questions.

 

Still one young likely lad who went by the name of Oedipus did indeed answer her riddle correctly, and in a fit of pique, Sphinx threw herself from a cliff and smashed on the rocks below

.

Fortunately, a fate not shared by the ship named for her.

 

Still I digress.

1816

Trial fit of the cover, I basically followed Chuck’s method, without the luxury of laser cut parts.

1826

The benches are fitted each side of the cover. Fairly straightforward using Pear strips of 6mm and 10mm widths.

1829

I use scale figures to set the fittings at the right height. I find that such figures do aid the setting up of these things.

1830

The distance between the bench tops and stern Window cills is around a scale 4½ feet, which seems a little high to me, the Captain would have to stand on the bench top to see out of the stern windows.

 

The cills and the Gallery doors are yet to be fitted, then the area can be cleaned up.

 

B.E.

19/12/21

[mtaylor]

Looking very well done, B.E.   I'm not sure the windows were really for looking out at the sea but more for light,   Then again, maybe putting a stool on top the "bench" wasn't all that uncommon.

[KirbysLunchBox]

Beautiful work! Also some amazing remembering of stories of lore!