HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks  Nipper,

I’ve read through the fifty pages of the log, although reading the handwriting is difficult in parts.

Pretty standard stuff really, mostly  weather conditions, course taken, a few sighting of sails, and notes when reefs were taken in or the ship worn.

Page 25  has a little more interest

There are a couple of references to meeting up with other ships, mentions of Richmond (5^th rate) and Delaware ex American built prize (6^th rate.) and giving chase and shots fired at a Sloop going towards Hampton.

I’m sure Capt Kendall would be surprised to know that people like us are taking an interest in what he wrote some 240 years ago.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[DelF]

Excellent work as always B.E. - I found myself holding my breath when you described cleaning those fragile rails and volutes! 

 

On 2/10/2022 at 9:41 AM, Blue Ensign said:

One would imagine that a Captain would know how to spell his own ships name

 Despite Dr Johnson's efforts I suspect spelling in the Georgian era was less standardised than he would have liked, and Captain Kendall probably just used the version he preferred.  

 

Derek

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Derek, rail cleaning worked out ok,  you just need to work out a strategy for cutting and holding, and have 'soft' hands.

 

The thought of personal spelling options had crossed my mind.🤔 but enough  of this pondering over such matters, time I got back to the build.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-eight

 

A six month review.

 It is six months  since I started this project, so a few pics to record the state of play.

5644(2)

5640

I just love the shot from this angle displaying her sheer line.

5631(2)

5629(2)

5637(2)

5636

5642(2)

I have worked several hours each day on this model over the past six months  and with the addition of the facing pieces for the fenders and Chesstrees I am now moving back to the internal fittings.

 

Still a long way to go but now there is no doubt that she is a British Frigate of the Georgian era, and she is slowly gaining the look I'm after.

 

How lucky are we to have such quality products to play with, thank you Chris.

 

B.E.

11/02/22

 

[Nipper]

BE - once I'd looked at the website with the Sphinx logbook, I realised that it covers just a few months in 1779, rather than the period three years earlier that interests me particularly. Still fascinating to read though.

 

I noticed that whoever wrote the title page spelled the ship's name as "Sphinx", even though Captain Kendall keeps to his own version.  I'm very tempted to go with the captain's spelling of "Sphynx" on my model - it looks and feels more contemporary.  I wonder if Chris could be persuaded to produce a letter "Y" to give us the option?!!

 

Great photos above BE.  It's getting more and more like the Joseph Marshall painting.

[BobG]

3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I have worked several hours each day on this model over the past six months

 

Beautiful, BE! All of those hours you have spent crafting this lovely model has paid off grandly! 

 

 

[KirbysLunchBox]

I just can’t get over how good this looks! The ship is beautiful out of the box and you have taken it to a whole other level! 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Nipper, Bob, and Kirby.

 

Post Seventy- nine

 

Fiddling in the Foc’sle

The forward end of the internal bow area can’t be  authentically represented as it is cut off by the kit bulkhead, a simplification of the kit design.

5647

This is painted black with areas of shading to hopefully give the impression of shadow in any view that may become apparent.

The Foc’sle deck will also need to have sufficient planking to mask this area from view.

This shot of the wonderful Winnie build by Rusty shows  how the very forward end of the Bow should look.

 

I have gone as  far as I can with the  basic modification by opening up the Bridle port and planking the internal area otherwise left unfinished.

One other practical modification is the addition of  manger boards running from the Bridle port to the Bowsprit stop.

Creation of these has to be done in conjunction with the Bowsprit stop, and the Fore Topsail sheet Bitts  against which they fix.

The Bowsprit also has to be considered in fitting the Bowsprit stop.

123

This shot of Trincomalee  demonstrates the arrangement. The low manger boards can be seen (complete with curious goat)  and the square tenon of the Bowsprit.

Also of interest is the tackle for the Bridle port lid running beneath the deck beams.

 

In the kit the arrangement the stop is simplified with a  hole into which the Bowsprit fits.

5648

The  stop is faced with some 0.8mm pear and the tenon mortise cut.

5649

At the forward end the hole is adjusted to take the Bowsprit.

This is also a simplification as the tenon mortice only should run thro’ the stop, but the effect should look the same.

5651

The tenon in the heel of the Bowsprit slots into the stop.

5654

From forward.

5652(2)

I ensure that the Bowsprit slides smoothly into place with the minimum of effort.

This will be visible thro’ the un-planked  beams.

 

In my next post I will be looking at Manger Boards.

 

B.E.

12/02/22

 

 

[paul carruthers]

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you Nipper, Bob, and Kirby.

 

Post Seventy- nine

 

Fiddling in the Foc’sle

The forward end of the internal bow area can’t be  authentically represented as it is cut off by the kit bulkhead, a simplification of the kit design.

5647

This is painted black with areas of shading to hopefully give the impression of shadow in any view that may become apparent.

The Foc’sle deck will also need to have sufficient planking to mask this area from view.

This shot of the wonderful Winnie build by Rusty shows  how the very forward end of the Bow should look.

 

I have gone as  far as I can with the  basic modification by opening up the Bridle port and planking the internal area otherwise left unfinished.

One other practical modification is the addition of  manger boards running from the Bridle port to the Bowsprit stop.

Creation of these has to be done in conjunction with the Bowsprit stop, and the Fore Topsail sheet Bitts  against which they fix.

The Bowsprit also has to be considered in fitting the Bowsprit stop.

123

This shot of Trincomalee  demonstrates the arrangement. The low manger boards can be seen (complete with curious goat)  and the square tenon of the Bowsprit.

Also of interest is the tackle for the Bridle port lid running beneath the deck beams.

 

In the kit the arrangement the stop is simplified with a  hole into which the Bowsprit fits.

5648

The  stop is faced with some 0.8mm pear and the tenon mortise cut.

5649

At the forward end the hole is adjusted to take the Bowsprit.

This is also a simplification as the tenon mortice only should run thro’ the stop, but the effect should look the same.

5651

The tenon in the heel of the Bowsprit slots into the stop.

5654

From forward.

5652(2)

I ensure that the Bowsprit slides smoothly into place with the minimum of effort.

This will be visible thro’ the un-planked  beams.

 

In my next post I will be looking at Manger Boards.

 

B.E.

12/02/22

 

 

 

Great model build, You’ve probably thought of this but I’d sort the cat heads now, I’ve limited experience and I’m following the manual, which is great but I found fitting them as per the manual difficult 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Paul, if only I could, they will be additionally tricky in my case as I have to include the  Cat tail which fixes beneath the  Foc'sle deck beams.

I'm also trying hard not to think about the cathead supporter with its compound curves flowing seamlessly into the Ekeing rail.

Fortunately I'm moving aft shortly and it will be some time before I get back to the sharp end.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Eighty

 

Manger boards.

These are an appropriate fitting to add to the model as they will be visible, and besides I just like doing stuff.

5657

A card template is used to get the right proportions.

5666

The boards and cants are made up as one using scrap 1mm Pear.

5668

They need to be worked in conjunction with the Fore Topsail Bitts that sandwich the Bowsprit stop.

This effectively means that the bitt posts really need to be attached to the stop sides at this point before any deck beams are put into place.

5658

The Topsail Bitts are glued to the stop using the plan detail, and the Fore Jeer Bitts are used as a height reference.

5660

The relevant deck beams are tried in place to make sure there are no nasty surprises down the way.

5662

Looking at the Bitts it seems to me they could do with a little shaping at the tops if only a simple chamfer.

 

All  these pieces will eventually be painted red, but I’ll leave the actual fitting  until just before the Foc’sle beams go in.

I’ll now continue with the upper deck fittings working from aft forward.

 

B.E.

13/02/22

 

[Theodosius]

Do you plan to paint the bits?

[Blue Ensign]

The uprights will be painted, not sure yet whether to leave the cross pieces natural, but no pressure on that decision.

 

B.E.

[Theodosius]

Ah, I see, and you allready wrote about this a bit earlier. Sry for not reading your posts with enough attention 🙂

[Blue Ensign]

Post Eighty-one

 

Moving aft – moving forward.

I have finally decided on the Great Cabin flooring, I am going with the traditional b/w  painted sailcloth look.

5681

5673

I think this will have more impact when viewed from above or thro’ the stern lights and ports.

 

A few bits and pieces to attend to, tackle rings in the cabin deck and bolts and rings in the bulwarks.

I am not really a fan of the kit provided etched stuff which lacks the round of the iron work. I prefer to use Amati fine eyebolts and rings.

Amati  2mm rings (4000/02) 3mm rings (4000/03) Fine eyepins (4703)

Deck ring bolts: 2mm rings coupled with fine eyebolts.

Bulwark Breeching Ring Bolts: 3mm Rings coupled with fine eyebolts.

Bulwark side tackle Eyebolts: Fine eyebolts.

I prefer to chemically blacken metal parts if possible.

5709(3)

Making up forty ring bolt and eyebolt sets for the bulwark gun tackles is not one of the most exciting tasks, but they are best fitted while the deck access is clear.

At least the fixing holes are pre-drilled in the bulwarks.

I note that the kit indicates the use of Eyebolts for the bulwark breeching ropes rather than Ring bolts, a simplification perhaps. 

5696

At this point the basic preparation for the next stage has been completed. The line on the deck is secured thro’ the tiller lead hole on the Port side in anticipation of rigging the ships wheel.

For this I have used 0.45mm Syren line.

Not sure at this stage how I will rig the wheel and secure the tiller line on the Starboard side. 🤔

5689

A Marine stands guard to prevent any pilfering of materials, but there is something wrong in this picture, any ideas.

Answers on a postcard to PO1 3LS.

 

 

B.E.

14/02/22

 

[BobG]

3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I note that the kit indicates the use of Eyebolts for the bulwark breeching ropes rather than Ring bolts, a simplification perhaps.

 

I love your attention to the tiniest details, BE. You really take the kits you build to a different level of authenticity.

[Nipper]

The black and white pattern looks very effective - I agree that it will stand out more and and it also brings into better contrast the work you've done on the window seats and rudder head.

 

As for something wrong in that last picture . . . I can't believe it's your workmanship - could it be your marine's uniform?  I think perhaps that marines were still wearing tricorne hats in 1775, rather than the tall hat and plume.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Bob and Nipper.

@ Nipper, you are correct the Marine is wearing the post 1802 uniform with the short coatee. Prior to this Marine uniforms were similar to line regiment uniforms  with long tailed coats and bi-corne hats.

As  Sphinx was laid up in ordinary for the whole period post introduction of the new uniform, it would not have been seen during her sea career.

 

I did modify the marine standing guard at the great cabin of Pegasus to reflect the period.

 

Cheers

 

B.E.

[Landlubber Mike]

BE, just had a chance to read through your build log.  I didn't give a "thumbs up" to all your posts as I didn't want you to have to sign on with 100 notification alerts.  But just wanted to say wow!  Your work is stellar as always.  The stern came out absolutely fantastic.  One of these days I'll get back to my Pegasus and hope it comes out even half as nice as your work.

 

 

[Nipper]

BE - I've just looked back through your build log to find out how you made the black and white chequered sailcloth, but can't find or have missed your reference to this.  It's very impressive, so I'm contemplating following your example, and I'd would love to know how to create something similar.

Nipper

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Mike, and you should get back to Pegasus.👍

 

@ Nipper - Chris has very kindly provided the pattern on Plan Sheet 3 Laser cut parts.

Just print it out, spray it with some Artists fixative to seal, and  cut it to fit.

 

B.E.

 

 

[Nipper]

BE - you are so thorough!  Yes, I should have seen that on Chris's plans, so thank you for doing my work for me.  

 

I'll definitely try that out, and meanwhile I'll continue to enjoy and learn from your log.

 

Many thanks,

Nipper

[Blue Ensign]

Post Eighty-two

 

Cabin Bulkheads

The first major exercise is to assemble the cabin bulkheads, delicate pieces that curl quicker than a British rail sandwich, with one sniff of pva.

5669(2)

They will be left clamped flat until fitting time.

5716

Trial fitting the Bulkheads in place, before I add the detail.

 

A bulkhead puzzlement.

The aft bulkhead has the hinge patterns on the inner side to reflect  inward opening doors, as they are on the forward bulkhead with doors opening inwards into the Captains bed space and Coach.

The arrangement is as the prototype build (above) by Jim. Note however, that the scribed hinge patterns on the forward bulkhead are not used.

 

 

Rather, the hinge etched patterns have been applied to the outer face of the forward pattern (above) indicating outward opening doors.

There is only one way these bulkheads fit to take account of the slot for the partition between the Bed Space and Coach.

 

The AotS book on Pandora does show inward opening doors on both sets, but outward opening  doors make sense on this first bulkhead given the very restricted space beyond.

 I note that Chuck has shown this arrangement on his Winnie build, (above) but he also has opening outward doors from the Great Cabin.

Note also the ‘L’ shaped hinges common at this time.

5711

As far as the kit is concerned inward opening doors on the forward bulkhead would  come up against the guns in the cramped bed and Coach spaces.

5712(2)

Unless they were generally secured side onto the bulwark, which they may well have been to give more space.

I suppose if the ship was prepared for action, the bulkheads would in any case be removed to work the guns, so perhaps that wasn’t considered an issue.

5710

If Chris’s intention is that the hinges were placed for inward opening doors from fore to aft then the arrangement fits, and it may be that Jim just preferred the look of outward opening doors on the forward bulkhead, as do I.

5714

There is plenty of space to open the doors onto the Quarterdeck without fouling the guns.

 

Such a confusing issue  but of minor relevance if the Quarterdeck is to be planked over as such detail will be all but hidden.

 

B.E.

15/02/22

 

 

[Chuck]

I would check the original draft.  This usually indicates which ways the doors opened and where the bulkheads were. In the case of Winnie this was changed a few times as indicated  by different color new lines.  It also varied depending on which ship it was in the class.  But the drafts should show this very well if you have a deck layout sheet.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Chuck, they're not shown on any of the Admiralty plans that I can see, and I believe Chris probably used the drawings in the AOTs book on Pandora as a typical example of a close ship type and period. They are shown as opening aft on both bulkheads.

 

The simplest approach would be to follow that lead given that the fixing points for the hinges have been lasered on that side.

 

I still like the way you have them on Winnie tho'.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[starlight]

Hello Blue Ensign,

 

Kindly allow me to take up some space on your log here to say that this is some really impressive work. Your Pegasus log continues to be one of my primary references for my Fly build and I am really grateful that you document everything so thoroughly here on MSW.

 

Could I ask how you obtained/made that marine from a few posts ago? (Or the one for Pegasus you alluded to)

 

-starlight

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Starlight.

The figures are from a HAT 1/72 scale set, still available I understand.

I modified one of the figures to better reflect the uniform of1775  using styrene strip and modelling paste, altho' he doesn't bear too close an inspection.

 

He stands  guard on board Pegasus, but is hidden from view.

 

The deck beams are over scale meaning the the bulkhead is a little low, but I just went with the kit arrangement for simplicity.

The figure is a little under scale  but just about passes muster as a short fellow.

 

Looking at this photo reminds me that I modelled the doorway into the Captain's Bed space with solid doors for privacy, something the Captain of Sphinx does not enjoy.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

[archjofo]

Fantastic work !

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for looking in Johann. 👍

 

Post Eighty -three

 

Preparing the Bulkheads

I have decided to orient the doors for aft opening in accordance with the kit arrangement, which means that the hinges will be on the aft sides of the door for both Bulkheads.

I wasn’t keen on the  kit ring type handles and replaced those with  round knobs fashioned from Brass nails.

The glazing went in without trouble and was cleaned post fitting using dampened cotton buds.

The frames were painted Vallejo Flat Earth and put in place using pin-point spots of acrylic varnish.

5718(2)

This is slow work if smearing the glazing is to be avoided, and inevitably some minor touch ups of the framing is required.

I fitted the forward facing frames first to get them to sit flush with the panelling, the aft ones stand a little proud of the  panelling.

5725(2)

It is very tricky getting  0.5mm clear gazing plus 0.8mm of framing to sit centrally in the  panelling, but the forward ones are more important than the aft set.

5724(2) – screens in place looking fwd.

I went with the kit provided hinges as there was not enough room at the top of the door to create the ‘L’ shaped version.

5722- Fore screen – looking aft

By the time I had completed the forward screen it had developed a measure of twist which hopefully will be sorted out  when fixed against the deck beams.

This in itself creates a  problem; the kit arrangement  whereby the screens  fit up to the top of the beams is a simplification, and for an open deck impede the fitting of the Lodging knees.

Not so bad for the Fore screen where the beam sits before it,  but problematic  with the aft screen.

5721 – Aft screen

With this arrangement the Lodging knees would sit against the screen which would look a little odd, but I think a work around is possible.

5720

I had thought about constructing my own cabin bulkheads, but the kit versions look fine from normal viewing distance, and this build is all about what will ultimately be seen and from what angle.

5719

I have some pondering to do before I fix the screens permanently in place, not least about the placement of the guns.

The blurb doesn’t indicate fixing them at this time but if they are to be  dressed with Breeching ropes and other tackle this would prove very tricky if the partitions are in place.

 

B.E.

17/02/22

 

 

 

Edited February 17, 2022 by Blue Ensign

[Gahm]

This looks like a lot of modeling fun. Wonderful work, B.E.!

 

Thomas