HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48

[glbarlow]

My Chapter 10 posts were too long, I won’t take the time to do that much again.

 

The quarterdeck is pretty much the last “big” thing to do, starting with planking and ending with rails. It’s been such a journey from the first framing, through months of planking and the many detailed components assemblies since. Not sure I want it to end.

 

To keep it short, here are just four final photos of the quarterdeck.

 

Edited March 18 by glbarlow

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

Not sure I want it to end.

What's next, Glenn?

[glbarlow]

Just now, hollowneck said:

What's next, Glenn?

Still at least 6 months to go, but that’s a good question. I don’t know yet. 

[Rustyj]

Very nicely done Glenn. Always enjoy your updates!

[glbarlow]

Thank you Rusty.  I think I made this one too long, I’ll be more concise from here on. 

[glbarlow]

First Quarter deck cannon complete and posed next to its main deck companion. 

Seven more to go

[glbarlow]

Quarterdeck Cannon

 

No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.

 

One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.

 

The production line is ready.

The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 

 

On to Chapter 11.

[Toolmaker]

Outstanding high standards Glenn. Every picture an inspiration.

I have high ideals, which of course is not the same as high standards, but I would be beyond joyous if able to match those standards you are displaying.

I am learning my trade on Cheerful but 2025 will be Winchelsea year and along with Chuck’s monographs I shall be having your build log with me as escort.

 

Thank you

Paul

[glbarlow]

51 minutes ago, Toolmaker said:

I shall be having your build log with me as escort.

Thank you for the kind words. Glad my log will be of some help. Both Cheerful and now Winchelsea are great build, lots of challenges and lots of fun - with a little frustration here and there. 

[Erik W]

Glenn,

 

As always, your work looks superb.  I like the idea of airbrushing the cannons.  As I approach that stage with my Cheerful build's cannonades/cannons, I think I may do the same.  It seems a bit tedious to hand paint them all!

 

Erik

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Erik W said:

of airbrushing the cannons.

Thanks for the comment Eric. My cannons are a two step process. First airbrushing with Admiralty Paints Ironworks Black (I love the stuff, a rich matte black), airbrushing both the carriages and the guns produces a much more even finish, especially on the barrels. Then a four different brush application of Doc OBrien’s Rusty Brown weathering powder (which I also more lightly apply to the cap squares to bring it all together. Don't know why but the combination turns the cannons into a nice gun metal gray, credit goes to Chuck for the Rusty Brown, not an obvious choice.
 

Enjoying your work on Cheerful as well. 

[VTHokiEE]

42 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

brush application of Doc OBrien’s Rusty Brown weathering powder

I really should get some weather power - your cannons (as well as everything else) look awesome. I have to stop looking before I convince myself that I need an airbrush as well.

 

You have done a remarkable job with your Winchelsea!

[glbarlow]

13 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

some weather power

Thanks for the nice comments.
 

The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

[glbarlow]

Boarding Ladder

 

I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.

 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.

 

It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Edited April 9 by glbarlow

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Glenn.

[KennyH78]

Glenn, the boarding ladder came out beautifully.  And no one would have know about the slight mishap when turning her over if you hadn't mentioned it.  A testament to your work and attention to detail!

[Rustyj]

Great work Glenn. It always freaked me out when we either had to cut or remove the molding. As aways you did a perfect job!

[glbarlow]

3 hours ago, KennyH78 said:

have know about the slight mishap when turning her over

Thank you. At least that piece got a fresh coat of paint. 

[glbarlow]

15 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

Beautiful work

Thank you JJ, as long as we’re having fun right.

 

13 hours ago, Rustyj said:

always freaked me out

Thanks Rusty. Accurate description, and I have so many upcoming opportunities to get freaked out. 

[glbarlow]

Fenders and Chesstrees

 

Keeping with shorter posts: Added the fenders and chesstrees to the hull.

Each consist of a center and two outer layers glued together providing a nice dimensional look. After removing char the center piece is tapered from top to bottom and the outer edge slightly rounded before the two very thin are added (amazing to have layered wood on this thin a sheet of wood). With great trepidation I removed the center moulding. Then came a lot of careful shaping to conform these to my particular hull - both patience and time are required following the firm rule of  while you can remove wood, you can’t put it back.

I tried printing the frieze on tissue paper, really I tried. While successful the color and texture just weren’t a good match for me, probably the wrong tissue paper or I need more practice doing it. I was however successful using the original paper printed frieze. Ample use of the same glue stick used for the hull softens the paper and allowed me to get a match. With Chuck’s suggested tooth pick approach I was able to guide the paper into the groove created by the three pieces.

 

I also rounded out the sheave on the chess tree before applying the outer pieces along with a little 7mm lead pencil.

I’ve still not mounted the waist cannon, but set them for the photo. The addition of the fenders, chess tree, and ladder really bring the hull alive.  My one regret is while the boxwood for the ladder match, the AYC for the fenders are way whiter than the hull despited several coats of WOP. I kinda wish they had been boxwood as well to match the moulding.

 

I note however, at this point the hull planking is near three years old. I am confident in time the fenders and chess tree, like the hull, will mellow and blend in.

 

I’m moving onto the waists platforms and will finish chapter 11 with the channels. Thanks for stopping by.

Edited April 15 by glbarlow

[jfhealey]

I love it. Really nice work.

Best wishes

Fred

[jfhealey]

Especially folding the friezes around the chesstrees and achieving continuity in the pattern. 

[glbarlow]

7 hours ago, jfhealey said:

Especially folding the friezes around the chesstrees

Thanks, lining them up is a sticky challenge but worked out ok.

[glbarlow]

Channels

 

Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.

 

This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.

 

Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.

 

I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.

 

I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.

 

The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.

 

I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.

So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.

 

As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

[glbarlow]

Channels and Gangways

 

An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.

The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 

 

I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).

 

Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

Edited May 17 by glbarlow

[Erik W]

Glenn.  This looks superb!  I like the display base too. 

 

Erik

[Matt D]

Beautiful work, Glenn!  

[Chuck]

Really nice progress...in the home stretch as they like to say!!!

[Toolmaker]

A first class base is nothing more than this fabulous build deserves. You have certainly done this kit justice. Thank you for sharing your efforts.

 

Paul

 

 

[glbarlow]

21 hours ago, Erik W said:

I like the display base

Much appreciated Eric!

18 hours ago, Matt D said:

Beautiful work,

Thanks Matt, enjoying your Winchelsea as well. 

17 hours ago, Toolmaker said:

You have certainly done this kit justice.

I appreciate the kind words, thank you.