The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama) by gjdale (Grant) - FINISHED - SierraWest - Scale 1:87 (HO)

[gjdale]

8 hours ago, BobG said:

Well, not really, Grant. I think I must be getting dense in my advancing age!!

 

 

4 hours ago, Brucealanevans said:

I agree. Can’t get my head around it. 

 

Thanks Egilman for chiming in here - that is exactly correct. But here are some photos, just in case.

 

Take a felt polishing wheel for a Dremel-type tool.

 

 

Use a single edge razor blade to cut it in half.

 

 

Now use the semi-circular piece to polish the metal casting BY HAND. These parts were way to small and fragile to go anywhere near a spinning tool. You could attach a handle to it if you wished, as Egilman suggested, but I just held the felt in my fingers.

 

Moving right along...

The Castings – Painting the Details

There is an excellent video tutorial on the Sierra West Scale Models website that demonstrates an extremely easy, yet highly effective technique for achieving peeling and chipped paint effects on the castings. In summary, Once the base coat of black has been allowed to dry thoroughly (in my case it was left for a couple of days), colour is applied using a selection of AK paint colours, and while still wet the part is dunked in Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and then dabbed with a make-up sponge to randomly remove bits of paint. It is left to dry for at least a couple of hours, and then the process repeated if there is a second colour to be added. Once that has also dried thoroughly, the parts are dusted with various rust-coloured chalk powders and given another dunk and swirl in IPA to remove most but not all of the chalk, and left to dry again. That’s it – process complete. Here are some of the resin cast oil drums – I have yet to paint the details of the contents of the one in the centre at the back.

 

 

The process works equally well on the metal castings of the Acetylene Tanks.

 

 

Back to painting wooden crates……..

 

[BobG]

42 minutes ago, gjdale said:

Now use the semi-circular piece to polish the metal casting BY HAND. These parts were way to small and fragile to go anywhere near a spinning tool. You could attach a handle to it if you wished, as Egilman suggested, but I just held the felt in my fingers.

The light bulb went on for me when Egilman said the half round felt pad was used as a hand tool. I kept trying to see a half round pad rotating on a Dremel tool and wondering how in the heck you could use that to polish those metal parts! Maybe I'm only half as dense as I thought I was!

[mtaylor]

21 hours ago, BobG said:

The light bulb went on for me when Egilman said the half round felt pad was used as a hand tool. I kept trying to see a half round pad rotating on a Dremel tool and wondering how in the heck you could use that to polish those metal parts! Maybe I'm only half as dense as I thought I was!

I doubt you were only one who thought that.  I know I did too.

[Glen McGuire]

Fantastic paint job on those tiny drums, Grant!  So realistic - even with the up-close pictures!!

[FriedClams]

I agree with Glen’s post.  Ditto.  Nice work Grant.

 

Gary

[schooner]

Grant,

I've seen some amazing work here on MSW, particularly over on the scratch builds, but this kit and your handling of it takes the cake. Amazing workmanship!

[hollowneck]

Excellent work, Grant. Nice touches. I've just come across your thread and your work is very impressive.

I've attached a photo of the SierraWest Diorama that was built a few years ago by a colleague in my ship modeling club. I thought you might like to see how he finished-off his "module" which he added to his larger model train layout.

[gjdale]

Thanks Ron - that’s a very nice completed diorama. I hope mine turns out as nicely. I should have a minor update to post this weekend.

[gjdale]

Lots of pictures for this update, so I'll spread it over two posts.

The Castings – Painting the Details (continued)

I’d been struggling with getting a satisfactory finish on the “wooden” castings, so I posted some pics to the SWSM forum for review/critique/further advice. Here is a selection of crates I posted.

 

 

 

 

 

Having received some encouraging feedback from the SWSM Forum, I felt confident to continue with painting of the details.

 

I have tried where possible to use some of the techniques explained in a couple of discussion threads on the SWSM forum. We begin with a couple of multi-detailed castings. Here is the workbench top (legs/frame to be added later). This is a single casting, packed with details. I’ve included half of a toothpick in the foreground as a reminder of the scale. Parts were picked out in individual colours and then some edges were highlighted by dry brushing. A little dry chalk powder was added where necessary to dirty things up a little.

 

 

And here is a cupboard/bookcase, again packed with details. The same techniques were used here.

 

 

There are a few bins and barrels with the contents cast into them as well.

 

 

Some miscellaneous larger machinery items – I’m not exactly sure what they are, but figured green was a safe bet for colour. I’ve used a different shade of green on each.

 

 

Then there are the plethora of individually cast hand tools. These are all cast white metal parts. The metal areas of the tools are left the buffed blackened colour and are then dry brushed to provide some highlights. Subsequent to this photo, I’ve changed some of the wooden tool handles from brown to a peeling red paint. 

 

 

The handcart below is comprised of a resin cast tray, some metal cast wheels placed on a brass rod axle, and some wooden handles made from some scrap strip wood.

 

 

Continued next post...

 

Edited May 24, 2023 by gjdale

[gjdale]

Continued from previous post...

 

A Canvas Rack is built up, once again using the provided template to build directly over.

 

 

The two sides are then joined by some cross-braces.

 

 

Rolls of canvas are then made by cutting strips of tissue paper 30mm wide by about 250 long and rolling them around a 3/32” diameter piece of brass rod. The ends are secured with some diluted white PVA glue before the rolls are given a coat of diluted off-white paint and a final dusting of some dry chalk powder. Here is the completed canvas rack.

 

 

The Oil Drum Rack is built up in a similar fashion.

 

 

Here is the rack, ready for it’s occupant.

 

 

A previously prepared drum is then added together with a hose made from 1.0 mm diameter solder wire.

 

 

A number of “mini scenes” are then created from some of the previously prepared castings and some bits of scrap wood. These will each form part of a larger scene in the final diorama. The extreme close-up of the macro lens shows me that I need to go back and take care of some of the shiny bits of epoxy that are evident here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I believe I am now ready to start adding the details to the diorama itself…

[wefalck]

The thingie on the right is probably the base of a horizontal milling machine or a metal shaper - see for instance the building-log of a model of such here on MSW: 

 

 

 

[Glen McGuire]

It just keeps getting better and better, Grant.  My neck is getting sore from shaking it back and forth every time you post new pictures.  Your paint jobs on those incredibly detailed castings is just wow.

[Roger Pellett]

Post 249:

 

The thing on the left appears to be a tank with a bolted clean out/ manway.  It could be for fuel or lube oil.  I’m wondering if it might fit alongside the oil drum on the rack.  OR- it could be a condenser scrapped from a repaired vessel; quite possible with the large manway.  Every self respecting industrial facility needs a pile of stuff not good enough to use but too good to scrap!

 

Roger

[wefalck]

When it comes to building 'rotten' sceneries, I found this Swiss guy most inspirational: https://www.pinterest.fr/ackle0238/my-models-135-scale/. He has also the talent to pull everything together, so that the little bits and pieces and details look as if they belong there, rather than put there - I found this the most difficult aspect of making sceneries.

[Roger Pellett]

Having lived in a backwoods Southeastern Ohio Community for the first half of my civilian employment I am struck by the difficulty that movie producers have realistically portraying the outlying settlements.  Things that they often miss:

 

The aluminum painted tractor tire used as a flower bed.

 

One or more vehicles with the wheels removed “up on blocks” to be used for parts.  Your shipyard could include a derelict car from which the engine has been salvaged for use on a boat.

 

A home freezer or refrigerator on the sagging font porch of the house.  Doesn’t everyone keep one there?

 

Roger

Edited May 26, 2023 by Roger Pellett

[Glen McGuire]

5 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

A home freezer or refrigerator on the sagging font porch of the house.  

If you make that front porch like this, it won't sag.

[Keith Black]

2 hours ago, Glen McGuire said:

If you make that front porch like this, it won't sag.

 Redneck flood insurance.  

[gjdale]

Thanks Wefalck, Glen, Roger and Keith, and also all of the "likes".

 

A brief update...

Finishing the Diorama Base

 With all the casting details now prepared, it is time to finish preparing the diorama base. This is another trepidatious moment as we are once again venturing into new territory (for me). In addition to the guidance in the instruction manual, I am relying heavily on the excellent discussion threads/tutorials on the SWSM forum by Karl Allison “Dirt, Details & Dioramas”, and Ken Karns “Dr. Grunge...The Dirt on Dirt...(Scenic Work and Sundries)”. While both gentlemen make the disclaimer that this not THE way to do things, it is simply how THEY do things, they both take a similar though not identical approach. I feel in safe hands following their lead.

 

The first step is to put down an initial layer of “dirt”. I’ve followed Karl’s method for this. First up, the necessary materials – some light tan latex house paint and some coloured grout (Karl recommends blending two colours for this step). Both of these were readily available in the local hardware store. A sample pot of paint – with the very helpful colour name of “Cane Chair”.

 

 

And the coloured grout (a lifetime’s supply!)

 

 

Here is the actual grout:

 

 

And once blended, following Karl’s recommendation of one part dark to two parts light.

 

 

It’s hard to see from the photo, but this blend produced a colour that was almost identical to the paint colour.

 

The base was given a good heavy coat of paint and while still wet the coloured grout “dirt” was sprinkled on and spread with an old paintbrush. I was careful not to get paint/grout onto the ship and pit area but was less concerned about the dock and rail ties as these can be easily cleaned up later.

 

 

I will leave this to dry overnight before lightly brushing off the excess dirt.

 

Base layer done – breathe….

Edited May 27, 2023 by gjdale

[wefalck]

Just had a look at the SWSM forum and there seems to be a lot of interesting stuff there. Thanks for the reference!

[Canute]

Good start, Grant. Scenery happens via multi layers. 👍

[gjdale]

A brief update...

Finishing the Diorama Base – Rail Tracks

After brushing off the loose “dirt”, I decided that the coverage was insufficient. I painted the surface again, this time with a 50/50 white glue/water mix, and sprinkled on some more “dirt”. Once dry and the excess brushed away, I was much happier with the result.

 

The rail tracks were next. These were first cleaned and blackened using Jax Pewter Black, and then lightly buffed. They were epoxied one rail at a time, with the epoxy left to cure overnight before the next rail was added. An HO rail gauge was used to ensure that the second of each pair of rails was laid at the correct distance. 

Once all four rails were set up, I added the rail spikes to each tie. The spikes used were Micro Engineering Spikes 30-106, purchased from Fast Tracks at the same time that I bought the rail tracks. They are approximately 8mm (5/16”) long, with a 1.5mm (1/16”) “head”. Here is a picture of the spikes.

 

 

Although somewhat tedious, pre-drilling for the spikes using a 0.6mm drill made the process go quite quickly. A pair of fine long-nose pliers was all that was needed to drive the spikes.

 

Here is a close-up of a section of track once spiking was complete.

 

 

And an overview shot at this stage.

 

 

The sides of the rails, including the spikes, were then painted with a rust coloured chalk/alcohol mix (Rembrandt 411.3). This not only gave a nice rusted appearance to the side of the rails, it also dulled the occasional blob of epoxy.

 

Here is a close-up after the chalk mixture was added.

 

 

Further work on the scenery base and scenery to follow. The ballast will be added to the rails at some point soon.

[Roger Pellett]

Grant,

 

Nice Work!  Will this become part of a model railroad layout?  If not, will there be a locomotive and or cars on your track?

 

Roger

 

[gjdale]

Thanks Roger.

 

No, this will be a stand alone diorama, not part of a layout. At this stage I have no plans to add a locomotive or cars to the track, although that's not set in stone..... I will probably add some HO scale figures, and possibly an old vehicle of some description if I come across something suitable (I'm thinking an old truck......maybe......).

[Rustyj]

Hi Grant. I just had a wonderful time catching up on your build. I'd never thought much about doing something like this but seeing your fine work has really piqued my interest.

[gjdale]

Thanks Rusty. But be warned, that’s exactly how I ended up with this kit (and another one as well……..)

 

The Sierra West kits really are top notch if you are interested. Just sayin’……………….😉

[Old Collingwood]

Some great work  there  Grant.

 

OC.

[gjdale]

Thanks again for all the encouraging comments and the "likes".

Detailing the Diorama Scenes

The next task was to add the ballast to the rail tracks. I quickly discovered why most modellers will add the ballast before laying the tracks – it would have been much easier that way! Nevertheless, it didn’t prove to be too difficult. Once the ballast was down, I was able to start adding a secondary layer to the base, including the suggestion of some grass along the outer fence line. (The fence will be added in much later, but for the moment the holes for the fence posts are plugged with some scraps). The loading docks for the main building were also glued in place at this stage. In the picture below, one of the docks is being weighted down while the glue dries.

 

 

The next task was to create the Steam Box scene. In addition to the placement of the steam box, boiler and hand cart, I added a pile of sawdust that has been created from the blower under the saw table. As this is great fuel for the boiler furnace, a shovel can be seen in the saw dust pile. Several scraps of wood are also scattered about under the steam box.

 

 

It was then time to place some previously prepared castings around the Upper Yard shed. I struggled with this at first but eventually managed to refine my technique to get the castings embedded in the ground. Here is a series of shots from all four sides of the Upper Yard Shed.

 

 

 

 

 

The Saw Shed itself was enhanced by the addition of some freshly delivered lumber that has just been unloaded from the rail siding and stacked, ready for processing.

 

 

The back of the Saw Shed received a few castings, as well as a little shrubbery.

 

 

The opposite end of the Saw Shed received a few scraps of lumber off-cuts after processing in the shed.

 

 

In the above picture and the next, you can also see the beginnings of the entry road, which includes creating a crossing for the rail line. There is more work to be done on this.

 

 

The Derrick Dock will be the next to receive some detailing before the main buildings are placed and the details added around it. Still a long way to go, but I’m fairly happy with progress thus far.

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, gjdale said:

Thanks again for all the encouraging comments and the "likes".

 

Detailing the Diorama Scenes

The next task was to add the ballast to the rail tracks. I quickly discovered why most modellers will add the ballast before laying the tracks – it would have been much easier that way! Nevertheless, it didn’t prove to be too difficult. Once the ballast was down, I was able to start adding a secondary layer to the base, including the suggestion of some grass along the outer fence line. (The fence will be added in much later, but for the moment the holes for the fence posts are plugged with some scraps). The loading docks for the main building were also glued in place at this stage. In the picture below, one of the docks is being weighted down while the glue dries.

 

 

The next task was to create the Steam Box scene. In addition to the placement of the steam box, boiler and hand cart, I added a pile of sawdust that has been created from the blower under the saw table. As this is great fuel for the boiler furnace, a shovel can be seen in the saw dust pile. Several scraps of wood are also scattered about under the steam box.

 

 

It was then time to place some previously prepared castings around the Upper Yard shed. I struggled with this at first but eventually managed to refine my technique to get the castings embedded in the ground. Here is a series of shots from all four sides of the Upper Yard Shed.

 

 

 

 

 

The Saw Shed itself was enhanced by the addition of some freshly delivered lumber that has just been unloaded from the rail siding and stacked, ready for processing.

 

 

The back of the Saw Shed received a few castings, as well as a little shrubbery.

 

 

The opposite end of the Saw Shed received a few scraps of lumber off-cuts after processing in the shed.

 

 

In the above picture and the next, you can also see the beginnings of the entry road, which includes creating a crossing for the rail line. There is more work to be done on this.

 

 

The Derrick Dock will be the next to receive some detailing before the main buildings are placed and the details added around it. Still a long way to go, but I’m fairly happy with progress thus far.

Excellent   -  you  got  any  of that  15"  by   15'   boards  -  I could  do with  them.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Very well done on your clutter, Grant. Gives a busy "worked in" look.

[mtaylor]

Sweet with a lot of detail.  Looking fantastic.