Jump to content

IJN Heian Maru by RGL - FINISHED - Hasewaga - 1/350 - PLASTIC - Sub depot ship


Recommended Posts

Greg,

 

Everyday cargo gear is quite straight forward (heavy lift gear can be a bit more complex).  First, there is a topping lift (called a span in your second illustration), which lifts the derrick to the required height and then holds it in position.  There a several ways of operating this - the most common I came across was a 'monkey face' - a triangular face plate - shackled to the topping lift with a tackle (single blocks) and a chain shackled to the other two eyes of the plate. The running end of the tackle ran through a block on deck and to one of the winch drum ends when the derrick was being raised or lowered.  when at its working height the chain was shackled to an eyebolt at the foot of the mast and the tackle let go.  The derricks were usually operated in 'union purchase - both derricks operating together; one centred over the hold and the other over the side. The slew of the derricks was controlled by the outboard guys (slewing guy pennant in second drawing) which were shackled to eyebolts on the bulwark capping with a cleat for the running end close by on the bulwark. The span (schooner guy in second drawing) connected the two derrick heads and ran to a cleat (anywhere convenient back near the derrick heel).  The preventer guys shown in the second drawing may or may not have been rigged, depending on where the ship was operating.  They were required in Australia but not in most of the far east or Europe. The preventers were a single heavy wire shacked to the derrick head and, once the derrick was in its working position, the lower end was shacked to an eyebolt on the bulwark capping using a preventer stopper as in the image below.  The idea of the preventer was to act as a safety wire in case the outboard guy carried away under load. Finally there are the runners - the wires that run from the winch drums to the cargo hook via the derrick cargo blocks. in union purchase the two runners are shackled to two eyes of a 'monkey face' and the cargo hook is shacked to the third eye (the mouth?). And you're all ready to load or discharge cargo.  when at sea derricks were always stowed. i have done one short voyage with derricks 'flying' but not a good idea.  In most jurisdictions a ship was not allowed to sail until the derricks were properly stowed.

 

If this isn't as clear as I think it is or if you need any more detail - yell! :D

 

John

 

1151437355_PreventerStopper.jpg.eab62180b898a855adfd028fc8339889.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

Yeah Jim I’m confused !

Just take it one bit at a time, Greg.

 

You need to be able to get the derrick higher or lower - achieved with the topping lift.

 

You need to move the derrick from side to side - use the outboard guy and the span.

 

Maybe you need to make the whole rig a bit safer to use - make sure the preventer is rigged on each derrick.

 

You will ceretainly need to raise and lower goods of some kind - hook on the runner and away you go.

 

John

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm.... all those blokes in the audience of the lecture are wearing facemasks.   I guess COVID has been around  a lot longer than we think.   LOL.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/3/2023 at 2:46 AM, RGL said:

My plan is to have one lowering a torpedo on one side forward and picking up cargo on the other side aft 

As long as you do not load the cargo on board your subs, when those are low on explosive cigars 😇

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, RGL said:

AK makes a salt product but you need to use it very sparingly as it’s bloody strong, thus I did a white diluted undercoat L. They have a tutorial on Utube 

used it on one of my destroyers, maybe it wasn't as strong when I bought my pot of stain

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That wash worked a treat for your decks. Big improvement, Greg. 👍

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazing work  Greg  -  the  master  is  in his  prime  -  so  glad  we have   you  in our  forum   brother  -  thank  you.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...