Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[Freebird]

 

 

Don't forget that many of us don't have access to a mill, much less a CNC mill. So Chuck's offerings give us an opportunity to have the best results, despite not having a machine shop.

 

Best Regards .... Rick

Quote

I can prepare the gratings with my small CNC-mill and build the jig following your really good description.

 

[glbarlow]

23 hours ago, davyboy said:

Luckily we have same quality kits from Chinese manufacturers at one third of the price"

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 

I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.

 

Edited May 9 by glbarlow

[Jim Rogers]

The thing I love about MSW is that you can ask questions of Chuck (Syren)  or Chris (Vangard) and they take time from their busy days to answer.

[Chuck]

Thank you Jim...

 

I have completed all of the hatches, gratings and partners to be placed on deck.  You have seen how the gratings were made.  The two hatches are pretty similar.  The only difference is they have cover boards rather than gratings within in the coamings.

 

 The photo below shows the laser cut coamings assembled.  There is no need to remove the laser char from the lap joints at the corners.  In fact it probably isnt a good idea at all.  They are precision cut so you end up with a perfectly squared up coaming the correct size.  You can and should sand both sides of the sheet before removing these laser cut parts to clean the char from those sides.  Just glue them up using the same right angle jig provided earlier.   Then sand the char off the top of the completed coaming being careful to keep the round-up consistent. 

 

You can see the smaller hatch completed.  The larger one shows the three cover boards also laser cut waiting to be glued into position.  But this you will also note the ledge created on the inside of the coaming that the cover boards will sit into.  These are laser cut for you and can be glued on the port and starboard insides of the coaming.

 

This photo shows the three coverboards in the coaming.  They are pretty thick, but only so they are flush with the center of the coaming to allow for the round-up.   The round-up along the sides of the coverboards should be sanded flush to the top edge of the coamings along the P & S sides.  I know some folks like to show one or two coverboards off the coaming.  You can do this if you want to.  But then you should sand that roundup into the bottom of the coverboards as well.   But I will show them all in place like the contemporary model.

 

To finish off the hatches...round off the corners using the right angle jig like you did for the gratings.   Trim them down to the top of the deck planking.   The bolts were added using black fishing line in the same way.   The iron ring for handles were made just like those on the lower platforms.  Exactly the same.

 

Also shown in the photo above are the mast and capstan partners.   These are completely laser cut for you.  They have etched lines to show the separate sections.   All you have to do is sand them clean and round off the corners as described earlier for the capstan partners only.  Soften the top edges as well.  Add the fishing line bolts and the eye bolts on the main mast partners.  Now some of these can be glued onto the model.  They are all ready to go so you can start planking the decks.

 

BUT there are a some like the main mast partners and capstan partners that need some extra work.   I will describe that next.   For example the elm pump tubes below the main mast partners and the capstan drum as well.

 

More to follow...but here is a photo with the all of the hatches, coamings and partners simply test positioned on the model.  They are not glued into position yet.   I did however glue the smaller grating and coaming on the forecastle deck in permanently....those are all finished up.  Its getting there!!!

 

[sfotinos]

Absolutely stunning!

[Jim Lad]

Very neatly constructed, Chuck.

 

John

[wmherbert]

I would appreciate a reminder of how you made the lifting rings on the hatches. I remember you explained it some where  but couldn't find it.

[Ronald-V]

Lovely!

[davyboy]

Everything is looking absolutely top notch Chuck.

 

Now a question. How was the Anchor Cable passed below deck to the cable tier when weighing anchor? It certainly would not have been left lying on the deck. Nothing to see on David's or your plans. Normally one grating had cut outs for this purpose the gratings on Speedwell are over passageways with cabins on each side,can't see any stowage area there. One of the hatches maybe ? I asked both of the Book authors and never got a suitable answer to this question. It is/was my intention on my 1/48th Speedwell to have a catted anchor with the cable still attached and led aft to pass below decks. Adds a bit more interest to a model IMO. 

 

Cheers,

 

Dave 

[Chuck]

I am not really sure but would guess that it was one of the hatches as well.  If I was going to show that detail I would have one of the coverboards removed and the anchor cable passing through it.  My guess would be the forward cover board of the forward hatch.  But I am no expert in that area.  Honestly I would need to do a lot more digging.  

[Chuck]

8 hours ago, wmherbert said:

I would appreciate a reminder of how you made the lifting rings on the hatches. I remember you explained it some where  but couldn't find it.

the rings are made in the usual manner.  Wrapped around a 47 drill bit and parted with a razor saw. The bent wire is much lighter and thinner gauge.  In my case here…24 gauge for the split rings and 28 gauge for the codder pin bent and inserted into the deck.

[Chuck]

Just a quick follow up....All of the coamings and hatches and partners are now glued onto the model.   Not much to see but here are the details.

 

The mast partners went in first.  Really important was to get them down the center line so your masts arent slanted or crooked.   It is best to use a dowel or even any strip of wood near the same diameter as the masts to also check the rake of the masts to determine the position of the partners.   I dont have a picture of that but you guys mostly know this already.

 

The main mast partners needed to have the pump tubes made before I could glue it on the model.  I am only making the pump tubes below deck at this time much like Greg did on his model.  I used a 1/4 x 1/4 cedar strip and marked it out to become octagonal.  I used the 7-10-7 template provided on the plans.   You can see it in the picture below.   Then I drew lines down each side so I could begin shaving the corners.  I just use a sharp #11 blade to carefully shave the corners down to the lines.  Just before the lines actually.   Then I use a sanding stick to finish it off.   Some of you may have some machines that could do this more accurately but this works just fine.   

 

You will notice a small length of 19 gauge black wire I inserted into the top end.  This will be inserted into the holes laser cut in partners.   The pump tubes are not vertical...so when glued into the bottom of the mast partner I created the slant for these using the plans as a guide.

 

 

Then it was just a matter of gluing the main mast partners onto the model.  You can barely see these pump tubes under the partners but here is a bad photo showing them entering the well below deck.  We will make the top half of the pumps much later and the same holes on the mast partners will be used to register them so they look continuous through the deck.  So dont make the wire too long on the top of the tubes.  Make them short enough so some room remains to do the same when we add the top of the elm tree pumps later.

 

The other gratings and hatches were added down the center line permanently.

 

The last remaining issue was the capstan partners.   We need to make the capstan drum below deck.   This is easy enough.  Its just a round drum that tapers.   I started with a 3/8 x 3/8 strip of cedar.  Then I converted that into an octagon just like we did for the pump tubes.  I have provided another 7-10-7 template for this strip so you can proceed to make it an octagon. 

 

Here is a photo after I rounded it off and tapered the octagon.  I just dis this by hand but you can chock it in a hand drill or if you happen to have a lathe....have at it.  The length can be taken from the plans as well as the diameter at the bottom so it fits in the capstan step below deck.

 

 

Once completed I glued the capstan partner onto the center line of the deck so the drum sits in the step nicely.  You might also notice that I made the drum a certain length so there was still room in the hole of the capstan partners.   This will allow me to register the actual capstan above deck after we make it.  Hope that makes sense.

 

 

Thats it for now as I am off to the beach for a few days to recharge....and decompress.   I will be back sometime next week ......or maybe not....

 

 

 

[Freebird]

Chuck, have a great time, lord only knows that you need the time off!

 

Best Regards .... Rick

[Freebird]

Chuck, quick question before you head out. The bolts for the box joints, are they in the same position on port/starboard of the keel? In other words, would drilling the holes completely through the keel and inserting the bolts  be accurate? Or should the bolt pattern be shifted to match the joints on each side? TIA!

 

Best Regards .... Rick

[Chuck]

Yes but why in the world would you risk that.  To many ways for that to go wrong.  So rather than do that I drill them on each side separately and you dont have to go all the way through.  I am just cautious like that.  Especially when you can only see one side at a time.
 

 

 

[Freebird]

Wasn't planning on drilling through the keel, mostly wondering if the bolt pattern was the same on both sides. On Medway, I did shallow for the bolts and will be doing the same on Speedwell. Thanks for the reply. Enjoy your time off!

 

Best Regards .... Rick

[Chuck]

Thank you guys...we leave tomorrow.

 

Yes I am headed out to the north and south fork of Long Island.   Gonna check out some maritime stuff including some museums that have small boat collections.  Still researching that block island Cowhorn.  There is supposed to be a nice one in the museum there.  I will be online using my phone though....me always needs some MSW time....lol.

 

Planking has started...today.

 

The facstle is completed.  Nothing to really add except that I followed the planking scheme provided on the plans.   You can see that here.  You guys may of course change it.  I cut these from a 3/64" sheet following the plans rather than use strips.  There is quite a pronounced curve to these and they are small enough so it wasnt a chore.  I basically traced the plan sheet.  Tweaked and sanded to suit.  I used a #4H pencil to simulate the caulking between the planks.

 

Progress below.  One plank at a time.  The outermost planks are the hardest but not terrible.

 

 

[KenW]

Enjoy your vacation and rest up.

Cheers.

[Chuck]

Thanks guys....Had a lot of fun and will be back this evening...

 

 

One Note

 

I was contacted while away with an issue about frame 2F.   Its really weird because I cant replicate this.  My laser files for this 3/16" thick top timber shows the correct part for the top timber.   No worries though.  This is an easy fix.  I have not been contacted by any others so it may even be a one off thing.  But if you have the same issue.  Just send me a PM or an email and I will send you a new set of top timbers for 2F right away.  

 

Dont reply here .....send me an email or PM!!!!  Include your name and address info as well.   I will ship immediately.   I will cut a whole bunch when I return and have them ready to ship just in case anybody else has this same issue.

 

[Jack12477]

Hi Chuck, is that 1st photo Montauk Lighhouse? What is that white square shape airport control tower looking structure behind it ? Don't remember seeing that when I last visited it.  Is that one of those coastal submarine watch towers from WW2, like the ones still dotting the Delaware coast? 

Edited May 23 by Jack12477

[Chuck]

34 minutes ago, Jack12477 said:

Hi Chuck, is that 1st photo Montauk Lighhouse?

Yes it is.  That smaller tower was built during WW2.  It was for radar and communications as well as other reasons.   It was then used after the war for using the foghorn and other things.  They removed most of the WW2 features but kept that one.  There was a pill box with guns on that bluff as well.  But that was also removed and they kept it alongside the gift shop for display.   They had a small barracks there as well and command center.   These other buildings are still around mostly and used by the parks dept.   

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.

 

Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.

 

These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.

 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.

 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.

 

I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.

 

Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.

 

The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.

 

But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 

 

Chuck

 

[ccoyle]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying.

 

Seeing the results of your work, Chuck, one would not think that there are any modeling tasks that could possibly terrify you.

[Chuck]

Oh its scary…one slip up and it will be hard to fix.  But that is true when you drill hawse holes and scuppers on any model.  A year of hard work and one slip up…poofff.

[Jim Lad]

Just take a deep breath and go for it, Chuck! 

 

John

[glbarlow]

A lot like drilling holes for multiple strips and eyelets on the hull you spent almost a year planking. Not much opportunity for recovery. 

[Stuntflyer]

Looking really nice, Chuck. Your progress is amazing and the ship looks aesthetically pleasing, at least to my eye.

 

As I recall, when I did the scuppers on Cheerful, I started with a small diameter drill that was large enough to get the point of a round needle file inside. Then I just rolled it to increase the hole size. Once the hole size was close a final drilling to even out the taper worked nicely. Like I said, as I recall. To be honest I'm not 100% sure.

Edited May 25 by Stuntflyer

[druxey]

For scuppers: My method (waterway in place) is, first accurate mark-out both inboard and out. Drill with a very small diameter bit from both sides. Hopefully the holes will meet - at least partially. Then progressively enlarge using larger diameter bits and needle files, making minor corrections as you go until you reach the diameter of the scupper.

 

I've not drilled hawseholes in years. I file the half-holes in the hawse pieced before assembly. Again, I make them slightly under final size, then file them out once planking is complete.

[yvesvidal]

On 5/24/2024 at 5:02 PM, Chuck said:

Oh its scary…one slip up and it will be hard to fix.  But that is true when you drill hawse holes and scuppers on any model.  A year of hard work and one slip up…poofff.

That is exactly why I did not drill these on my 1/48 Bellona. Way too dangerous.....

 

Yves

[Chuck]

 

To scupper or not to scupper.

 

Most contemporary models do not show the scuppers.   In fact the contemporary model of Speedwell doesnt show the scuppers. I didnt add the scuppers on my Winnie build which was typical.  But I am going to show them on my speedwell.   Nothing fancy.   These arent too crazy to do.   Not like the hawse holes will be.  But you do have to be careful.  You need to carefully measure them inboard and outboard so they look like they line up.  You can actually use the deck planking templates because I have marked the inboard locations for all of the scuppers.

 

When I drill my scuppers I dont even try to drill them all the way through.   That adds unnecessary difficulty.   I drill shallow holes only about 1/16" deep or slightly more.   Inboard, I start with a small pilot hole with a small drill bit.   Then in this case, I used a #47 drill bit afterwards to make them larger.   Finally I used a round file to smooth out the hole’s insides.   I lightly sanded the inboard bulwarks over the scuppers with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out any fraying.  This will require some paint touch-up later when they are all done.  The scupper holes were made flush with the deck level or just a hair above.

 

I prefer to use a soft pencil to darken the inside of the holes.  I made sure to cover the entire inside surface of the scuppers including the back of the hole.   Then I touch up the red bulwark paint.  On this model I drilled the scuppers before I added the waterway.  I just wanted to try something new.  It worked out really well for me.  No chipping or fraying of the water way at all.  You can do it whichever way is more comfortable for you.

 

The picture below shows the holes drilled and darkened with the pencil.   They are nice and dark.  I touched up the red paint as well on the bulwarks afterwards.  You can see the waterway strip also prepared in advance and ready to be glued into position.

 

The waterway is a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I sanded one of the four corners of the strip down its entire length.  I used an Emory board or sanding stick.   Basically I made it triangular in profile.  Then I held it in position so I could mark the positions for the scuppers along its length.  I really tried to get these exactly where they should be located.  I used a round mini file to make the half round openings along the length of the waterway where the scuppers were marked out.  Once in position this really looked good.   I used the same soft pencil to darken the round notches I made along the waterway as well.   Below you can see how the scuppers inboard turned out.  I made the waterway in two pieces for the gun deck rather than use one long strip that spanned across the whole length.

 

I also prepared the waterway for the poop deck, port and starboard.   This was easy...no scuppers, LOL.   Just make the strip triangular.  Dont worry about trying to make it concave or anything fancy.   

 

Here is a photo.

 

Finally to the outboard side.  No difference here really.   I used those outboard templates we used way back when....remember those.   If you have to shift the template fore and aft a bit to line them up with the inboard scuppers you made on the opposite side of the deck/hull its no big deal.   But this template will give you a really good start and can be rested atop the wales.

 

 

I drilled with a small drill bit first and again made the holes larger using the #47 bit.   I cleaned them up a bit and darkened them with a soft pencil.  Once again...no need to drill all the way through and hope you meet the same scupper hole you drilled on the inboard side.  Fake it ...till you make it .....I always say.   I drilled part way through once again.   Make sure you really darken them inside the holes nicely and completely.

 

Dont add the waterway on the fcastle deck yet.   I think it best to drill the hawse holes first.   I will be doing that next me thinks.