Jump to content

Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF


Recommended Posts

You are likely experimenting with us and some of these "photos" are actually 3D renders. The colour scheme is very similar to the Swan 3D model :D 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

I think what Mike Y was saying is that your work is so clean, so neat, and so precise, that your work appears almost computer generated.  The coloration of your construction approaches near computer-perfect tones. I believe Mike Y is *jokingly* wondering if you might be trying to pass off computer-generated work as the real thing. 😁

All joking aside, your joinery and precision are a master class on the subject. Well done, sir. 

 

Jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, yes, I thought the joke is obvious, sincere apologies  if it was not...

It is really incredibly clean and precise, a completely different level and something to strive for!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Loving your work on this Mike! How do you keep your model so clean?

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hamilton, thank you for the compliment!


I think the most important thing you can do in order to build a clean ship is to work slowly and methodically. Use the right tools and treat each part as a project in itself. Do-overs are part of the hobby and there is so much to learn when doing them. So, don't settle for mediocrity. Try to get neat and tight fits when adding parts to the ship. Keep the work surface and hands clean.

 

Think about how you want to approach each project before you start and you will get a much better result.


Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Riding bitts

Making these turned out to be an interesting project. The basic shape for the pins and cross piece was taken from the plan drawings. The bevel on the ends of each piece was made by hand turning the disc sander set at 45°. Instead of using a file to shape the thin step beyond the bevel I simply added 1/64" caps made from strip wood.

Speedwell-ART_1196.thumb.jpg.2b3a770e26dbc5906c1ff066725cf8cf.jpg

To shape the round offs for these pieces I wrapped some 180 grit sticky backed sandpaper around a pencil which was then turned in the drill press for shaping. 

Winchelsea-ART_1191.thumb.jpg.ccce7dd8c277781c56343bf3530e46ca.jpg

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/2/2024 at 4:21 PM, Stuntflyer said:

To shape the round offs for these pieces I wrapped some 180 grit sticky backed sandpaper around a pencil which was then turned in the drill press for shaping. 

Another creative idea that I'll store away. Thanks!

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Lower platforms (aft)

I've been held up a bit in getting these completed due to some mohs surgery on my neck and face. Thankfully, the doctors got it all and it's healing quickly.

 

I did these platforms the same way as the fore platforms. The angles of the beams are a bit trickier, especially the ones further aft. As usual I used spacers between the carlings which were removed after the carlings were glued in. All of this will be covered by the platforms, but if they showed I would definitely mortise them.

Speedwell-RT_1242.thumb.jpg.72fc60731fe93583c2778792b565389b.jpg

Making the foremost aft platform proved to be an interesting project. This was done in sections moving from the center out. Tricky but lots of fun to make.

Speedwell-RT_1249.jpg.5720282fda45007a69d46e20227acdab.jpg

I ended up using Chuck's laser cut mast coat rather than doing it from scratch. Just wasn't in the mood for the inevitable re-dos.

_DSC1281.thumb.jpg.bc4783a815db6146f1e080e6e6c19f92.jpg

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike, I appreciate your super clean planking.  It's always been an inspiration for me.

 

Good luck healing from the Mohs.  The worst is behind you.  I've had a few skin cancer surgeries, including Mohs.  It's never fun, but always a relief to have the problem removed.

 

Erik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The great cabin

I started with the deck clamps. I made them identical by sandwiching two wide 3/64" strips together and then milling the notches. There is some tapering needed where the clamp meets the window which changes the length slightly. So, once the first one was installed I was able to measure off of that one in order to insure that the second one mirrored it. The bottom of the aft most notch is slightly higher than the top of the window.

Speedwell-RT_1302.thumb.jpg.24835fde9bec67690efbbc1ec50ada44.jpg

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Planking the inboard sides of the cabin took more time than expected. It's wasn't as simple as just cutting tapered planks and placing them onto the hull. The curvature of the hull and twisting of the planks changes the way these all fit together. This is especially true of the lower three strakes. Some additional shaping was necessary in order to get good butt joints. I think I will paint the inside of the window framing to even out the colors a bit. Otherwise, I think I'm good to go.Speedwell-ART_1326.thumb.jpg.b7e23347fe174414501e11ed8836729d.jpg

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You show a really clean execution of your build. I simply love it.

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I finished the quarterdeck beams using the ones from Chuck. Other than having to enlarge a few bulwark cutouts, it went smoothly. I scratched the transom beam which is made in two layers. It was adjusted in thickness in order to get a smooth run of planks. To do that I made the top 1/32" thick rather than 1/16". None of the beams are glued in except for the transom beam. The deck has a curved sweep. When I push down on the plank it sits flush with all the beams.

_DSC1337.thumb.jpg.4bcd4af537369295a130e8478a1e9f62.jpg

_DSC1339.thumb.jpg.5afecf00dfa01adec20836c5574a5706.jpg

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...