HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

HMS Indefatigable 1794

 

The Prologue.

I find myself once again beguiled by that modeller’s honeypot known as Vanguard models and I finally succumbed to Chris’s latest offering, having mulled it over for several weeks.

 

Why the wait, wots not to like, some may say, but this will be the largest project I have undertaken since Norske Løve way back in the 1980’s.

Indefatigable is about the same hull size as Norske Løve, (1:70 scale) but not so tall. It will still demand a sizeable display area.

 

As with my Sphinx build this will be Navy Board style, I’ve no room for masting and rigging, and I have developed an affection for the look.

I opted for the basic kit as all the masting, rigging line, and block work will not be used, simply added to my ever-growing pile of discarded kit parts. If I decide to add stump masts my preferred material is Ramin.

 

From a preliminary assessment I don’t think Chris has left me much to fiddle with. He has addressed the issue of realistic Quarter galleries, the provision of Lodging knees, and a properly fitted out Great Cabin, complete with Rudder housing.

He has solved the issue of lower deck cannons coming adrift early in a build, and the stern decoration and Figure are wonderfully sculpted.

In terms of authenticity this kit hits the spot and is what in the end persuaded me to go for it.

 

As with Sphinx I will be taking a minimalist paint approach, and will look to represent the ochre band along the gunport line more subtly, using natural woods.

It was the all-painted hull that also delayed my decision; authentic as it is, I prefer the natural beauty of wood on a model of this type, and I needed to have a clear idea of the approach in my mind.

 

The makings are expected to arrive on Tuesday, and I will be working the initial stages of the build in conjunction with my current Medway project.

 

B.E.

05/03/2023

[realworkingsailor]

Can’t wait to see this project develop in your very capable hands! 

 

Andy

[James H]

Looking forward to this one!

[Kevin]

me too, looking foward to someone building alongside me

 

[Knocklouder]

Good luck on journey 

[gjdale]

Always a joy to watch you work your magic BE. I’m taking a front row seat for this one.

[Rustyj]

Oh this will be lots of fun to watch!

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys, thanks for your support. 👍

@ Kevin - I was rather thinking of following you, and crib off your progress.😉

I have informed my shipyard assistant of the impending project, and he's of the opinion that he'd rather be  sniffing around the woods and meadows,  than spend long  hours in the workshop, listening to me muttering to myself.

 

B.E.

[Kevin]

19 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Cheers Guys, thanks for your support. 👍

@ Kevin - I was rather thinking of following you, and crib off your progress.😉

I have informed my shipyard assistant of the impending project, and he's of the opinion that he'd rather be  sniffing around the woods and meadows,  than spend long  hours in the workshop, listening to me muttering to myself.

 

B.E.

from another Cocker Spaniel owner, im sure you will overtake me within a few days

Edited March 6, 2023 by Kevin

[Gus M]

on board, it will be a great opportunity to light things up, for sure.

and enjoy your " ride ".

[Nipper]

B.E.

I'm looking forward to enjoying your build log and learning as well.

I understand your fondness of the Navy board style models - they do look evocative.  I'm sure you must have thought about creating the full frame view below the wales, which is so characteristic of the style, rather than fully planking the hull.  But I guess that would need to be a scratch build, although it could be a hybrid scratch built hull with one of Chris's kits on top.

 

Nipper

[chris watton]

10 minutes ago, Nipper said:

B.E.

I'm looking forward to enjoying your build log and learning as well.

I understand your fondness of the Navy board style models - they do look evocative.  I'm sure you must have thought about creating the full frame view below the wales, which is so characteristic of the style, rather than fully planking the hull.  But I guess that would need to be a scratch build, although it could be a hybrid scratch built hull with one of Chris's kits on top.

 

Nipper

Most late 18th Century Admiralty Board Models were/are fully planked, the models with frames showing is more of a 17th Century practice - but did extend well into the 18th Century. But overall, a model at the time of Indy would most probably have had a fully planked hull - but still full internal detail.

[glbarlow]

The legacy continues… No. doubt a reference model for Indy builders on the making.

[Nearshore]

Look forward to watching the progress of this build. 

 

Nearshore

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for your comments Guys, much appreciated.

 

@ Nipper -  a stretch too far to add false 'real' frames to the mix, but I am watching Chuck's Speedwell development with great interest.

 

A very large box is due to be delivered  by UPS today, as close as it gets to being like a kid at Christmas again.😊

 

B.E.

[Nipper]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

 

@ Nipper -  a stretch too far to add false 'real' frames to the mix, but I am watching Chuck's Speedwell development with great interest.

 

Yes. I was being facetious . . . I had in mind a sort of reverse razee!  The fully framed hull is scratch-built up to the gundeck and then the upper decks and fittings come out of the box.  Someone is bound to have done this!

 

I wish you joy of the awaited arrival today. 

 

I noted your comment earlier about the shortage of space at home for displaying your models.  This surely is an issue for all of us.  I'm put off building something the size of Indy because of this, and I don't want to go to a smaller scale.  On the contrary. I'm keen to put as much detail as possible into the model, like you do.  I'm pondering on the thought of a larger scale model of say, a section of a ship to include all the internal fittings and furniture usually covered by the decks - a sort of nautical dolls' house!

 

Nipper

 

[Blue Ensign]

I would think that anyone scratch building the hull of Indy with proper frames wouldn't need the crutch of the Indy kit to finish it. It's all way beyond my pay grade. There are a few sectional kits around if that's what takes your fancy.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Chapter One

Formulating a plan

Wow – Sphinx on steroids!

01591

I’ll leave my assistant to do the initial inventory while I continue to fiddle with Medway.

 

I can’t be doing with hauling that box around, so first steps are to sort the box content and put aside all the items I won’t be using. Smaller delicate items are put into a smaller container.

 

I have been waiting to see what the supplied Red Alder deck planking looks like. Jim’s prototype build used maple pre-engraved decks.

0374

Under artificial light.

0378

Under natural window light.

1601

It is a nice-looking wood, but I understand Alder tends to darken with age, in tone it reminds me of Tanganyika, but a lot nicer.

 

My preference is for Boxwood for decking.

I would have gone for the top of the range Boxwood kit, but I didn’t need the Pearwood blocks, (£140) and the premium for the Boxwood version is a hefty £590. That’s a good chunk of a Sphinx worth!

 

Still, I want what I want, therefore I have put in an order for the necessary Boxwood planking from

Hobbymill.eu precision milled exotic woods and woodturning blanks

which also allows me to include wider strips which are often necessary for decking purposes, and sheet to cut margin planks.

Also included is Boxwood planking for the Topsides down to the wale. I am thinking of a contrasting wood for the Gunport stripe.

 

I am also thinking of coppering this model, think the wonderful model of Bellona, but I am easy with a pearwood lower hull should my resolve fail.

 

This is an additional cost but one that is only equivalent to the cost of the pearwood blocks set and provides me with a nice saving over the cost of the Boxwood kit.

 

I have little doubt at all that the cost of sundries and extras  will add more as the build progresses, they certainly did on my Sphinx build.

 

Time for a little light assembly work I think.

 

B.E.

09/03/2023

[Kevin]

good luck with the build

[Blue Ensign]

I don't need luck Kevin - I've got you to follow😜

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

[Kevin]

4 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

I don't need luck Kevin - I've got you to follow😜

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

dont follow me, im useless

 

[Beef Wellington]

I know its not my pocket making the decision, but good call on the boxwood!  Love the carronade, is it an antique or replica (asking jealously)?

Edited March 9, 2023 by Beef Wellington

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Jason.

It's only the equivalent of buying the Pearwood Rigging block kit version, but with Boxwood planking substituted for the blocks, and with additional planking included.

 

For those who may be interested this is the cutting list for the replacements I envisage.

500mm long strips

20pkts Boxwood strip 4x1mm (200 strips.) for decking.

2 pkts Boxwood strip 6x1mm (20 strips) for decking.

4 pkts Boxwood strip 5x1 (40 strips) for gunport stripe and down to waterline

Boxwood sheet 1mm 500mm (L) x 100mm (w)  for cutting margin planks, etc;

 

I bought that carronade from a village shop sometime in the 1970s, it's a heavy cast iron beast, made around the same time. I also purchased a larger scale 24 pounder long gun. Both carriages are made of English oak, and the breeching line I made myself at the Chatham dockyard, sometime in the 1990's

 

B.E.

[dunnock]

Lacking room to house a model the size of Indefatigable, I'm going to have to live it vicariously. I'm looking forward to following your build BE along with the other logs already begun.

David 

[Blue Ensign]

Thankyou David, I'm already thinking  Where am I going to put this!

 

Chapter Two

First Stages

In this stage most of the heavy weight mdf items are assembled.

The initial assembly slots together cleanly, and I must commend Chris on the sharpness and fit of the laser work.

I did run a sanding stick in the Bulkhead slots to smooth the char and where necessary a light tap with a pein hammer (not directly) seated the parts fully down.

I found I needed to ease the slots for the securing pegs which run thro’ the keel assembly. Even so they are a snug fit and I don’t really think they need glue.

0384

The keel is still quite floppy at this stage due to its length, so I utilised the Amati keel clamp whilst I fettled and inserted the pegs.

0383

With this beast the keel clamp is at the limit of its capacity, and I’m toying with the idea of buying a second to double the length, and provide a more stable support.

A deeper bench would be ideal but not really feasible. I will have to be careful when turning the hull that those delicate frame tops don’t collide with the wall.

0387

Note: There is a minor error in the manual at Stages 21/22. Bulkhead 17 is not removeable as indicated, as it is held by part 40. Chris has issued a pdf amendment addressing this.

0389

A small area of the Orlop deck is represented beneath the Fore hatchways, which I ‘dressed’ using spare engraved maple decking.

0390

The Lower deck slips seamlessly into place and there is a plywood planking engraved section that presumably covers the area that may be observed thro’ the Upper deck openings.

The Orlop and Lower deck decking section are the only parts glued at this stage.

0401

I considered whether to over-plank the Lower deck section, as will be done to the upper deck, but very little will be seen and I think the marked plank lines and butts will be sufficient for the purpose.

0401

Very nicely cut grating sets which I will install ‘as is’ for the lower deck.

0397

The assembly of ladders always give me trouble but a simple jig helps a little.

The final action in this Chapter is to add the Longitudinal bracing pieces (No.30) and parts5b/11b described as a gundeck beam.

0405

Note: Parts 30 are to be found on the 4mm mdf sheet not 3mmm as indicated. May save you a little time in sifting thro’ the sheets.

 

I did have a slight mishap with one of the part 30 pieces, which broke about one-third along at the weak point of the slot top.

Take care if easing these slots the part is very whippy and care needs to be taken.

0408

This completes this section, more of an assembly than a build at this stage.

 

 I can only marvel at the ingenuity of Chris to design a beast like this held securely together with barely any glue.

 

B.E.

10/03/2023

 

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

toying with the idea of buying a second

With its size you may want to consider a build more like we use for Winchelsea. The benefit of a secure upright hold and keeping the keel straight over the months of construction. 

[hollowneck]

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

With its size you may want to consider a build more like we use for Winchelsea. The benefit of a secure upright hold and keeping the keel straight over the months of construction. 

Good suggestion, Glenn. A second Amati clamp will do the job-while taking-up less benchtop space.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Glenn and Ron,

 

I usually have three build boards for larger projects such as Sphinx/ Indy each one specific to a particular stage of a build.

I find the Amati clamp very useful where I  want a specific angle, or a bit of height but wouldn't trust the single one for Indy, she's too heavy and long.

 

At the moment I'm using my old Sphinx board bashed to accommodate Indy, but I will be making a new one.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

 

[aliluke]

Hi B.E.

I've just been catching up on your prolific outputs since I last wandered around MSW eight years ago. Extraordinary and all to the very highest quality. The Indefatigable looks like a fantastic kit and - no surprise - you are already proceeding at pace but with your usual accuracy. I will follow along as I will also troll through your other logs as they are always very informative. You are indefatigable! The UK must have more hours in a day than we have downunder - I'll have to check that as I'm surely wrong...

 

Cheers,

A

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Alistair, I don't know about longer UK hours, I suspect the fact I'm long retired has more to do with it, coupled with the fact I've now given up Golf. 😊

 

Chapter Three

The Assembly continues.

I pick up this stage by adding the deck beams for the Upper deck and will finish with the bow and stern assemblies.

Twelve beams are required that simply slot into the longitudinal braces (part30) There are three spares.

Note: These are located on the 4mm mdf sheets, not 3mm as indicated.

0415

My old Sphinx build board is re-figured for this early build stage.

 

The bow parts that build up the round are now assembled.

Note: Part#34 is located on the 3mm mdf sheet, not 4mm as indicated.

 

I followed the indicated sequence of fitting the bow extension pieces with Bulkhead 1 fitted to the keel, taking care not to get glue on the keel.

I then struggled to remove the bally thing from the Keel, and I began to worry that I may break something trying to free the bow section. I used a piece of dowel thro’ the Bowsprit opening to act as a lever to ease the part out, combined with pressure on bulkhead 2 and the extension pieces that fit over it.

Nevertheless, it was a bit of  an anxious moment.

 

The final parts were then added.

 

I read in Jim’s log that Chris had recommended a palm sander to do the fairing, given the size of this beast.

As a confirmed toolaholic, I followed Jim’s lead and got myself a B&D Mouse. (one of those sundries I referred to in Chapter 1.)

0410

I’ve never been a fan of power tools for delicate work on models, I don’t trust myself, but I thought I’d give it a go.

 Initial fairing of the bow section seemed a good place to start, and I was pleasantly surprised.

 

The mouse sits easily in the hand, and with the finger extension attached, there is no feeling of it running away and taking too much off too quickly.

The finger extension which acts like a sanding stick, runs across three of the bow extensions, and I think it will prove useful to reduce the amount of hand sanding required in the fairing.

 

0411

This is about as much as I felt comfortable taking off with the section off the model.

0424

The bow section was then glued into place.

 

Same procedure with the stern section.

0418

0420

The final section (parts 29) are pre-shaped before attaching to the keel.

0422

Completion of the fairing will be done on the model.

0425

All the bulkheads are now attached and she’s starting to get heavy.

I’m thinking of adding lifting handles to the build board ends.

0412

I have also invested in a white board to display Chris’s  beautifully drawn plans, I was struggling to find somewhere to open them out, and this Amazon basic board fits the bill.

 

B.E.

12/03/2023